M1tch's long term 1ZZ build - Project 11

Started by m1tch, April 8, 2017, 19:12

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Call the midlife!

#50
Quote from: "m1tch"
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"All sounds good. 3 things if you haven't already checked/had suggested. Passenger window lock switch, timing chain tensioner oil seal if the leak is top, right hand corner and is the weight on the V5 gross vehicle weight or kerb? I can't remember but I know my FL is supposed to be 950 from the factory..


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Thanks for that:

Ah that might be a simple fix for the passenger window!
The leak seems to be top right when looking at the ending, will try and get a photo - sounds like it might be the oil seal though
Will check the plate for the actual weight - the V5 states 'weight in transit' I think
Chain tensioner o ring is a common one and an easy fix as long as you can get the right size o ring, the way the leaking oil spreads can make it look like the head though.
I should also point out I missed the P off my previous comment, I'm PFL so a bit lighter than yours due to the increased bracing on the FL.


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m1tch

#51
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"
Quote from: "m1tch"
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"All sounds good. 3 things if you haven't already checked/had suggested. Passenger window lock switch, timing chain tensioner oil seal if the leak is top, right hand corner and is the weight on the V5 gross vehicle weight or kerb? I can't remember but I know my FL is supposed to be 950 from the factory..


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Thanks for that:

Ah that might be a simple fix for the passenger window!
The leak seems to be top right when looking at the ending, will try and get a photo - sounds like it might be the oil seal though
Will check the plate for the actual weight - the V5 states 'weight in transit' I think
Chain tensioner o ring is a common one and an easy fix as long as you can get the right size o ring, the way the leaking oil spreads can make it look like the head though.
I should also point out I missed the P off my previous comment, I'm PFL so a bit lighter than yours due to the increased bracing on the FL.


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Well that's the window sorted - still working out what all the buttons do!

I have checked the plate in the engine bay in the back left, weights are as follows:

1225kg
1225kg
1 - 540
2 - 735

Really hope the car isn't 1,225 kg! I know its a facelift model but its not like it has air con or anything else special on it.

Also some of the oil does indeed look like its coming out the chain tensioner - is it worth getting the tensioner replaced or just swap out the seal? Might have a spare seal in the toolbox so could be a job tomorrow. There is also oil above that as well so it might also be a slightly leaking gasket - need to take the rocker cover off to check the chain tension between the cam gears for stretch but also to give it a clean up and paint.

Call the midlife!

#52
Quote from: "m1tch"
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"
Quote from: "m1tch"Thanks for that:

Ah that might be a simple fix for the passenger window!
The leak seems to be top right when looking at the ending, will try and get a photo - sounds like it might be the oil seal though
Will check the plate for the actual weight - the V5 states 'weight in transit' I think
Chain tensioner o ring is a common one and an easy fix as long as you can get the right size o ring, the way the leaking oil spreads can make it look like the head though.
I should also point out I missed the P off my previous comment, I'm PFL so a bit lighter than yours due to the increased bracing on the FL.


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Well that's the window sorted - still working out what all the buttons do!

I have checked the plate in the engine bay in the back left, weights are as follows:

1225kg
1225kg
1 - 540
2 - 735

Really hope the car isn't 1,225 kg! I know its a facelift model but its not like it has air con or anything else special on it.

Also some of the oil does indeed look like its coming out the chain tensioner - is it worth getting the tensioner replaced or just swap out the seal? Might have a spare seal in the toolbox so could be a job tomorrow. There is also oil above that as well so it might also be a slightly leaking gasket - need to take the rocker cover off to check the chain tension between the cam gears for stretch but also to give it a clean up and paint.
The handbook states Gross Vehicle Mass as 1225kg.
I'm only a beginner but fairly confident there's not usually a problem with the tensioner itself, just the o ring, although it's worth making sure you've definitely got the correct replacement or you'll be doing it again in no time, granted it's only a 10 minute job.


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m1tch

#53
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"
Quote from: "m1tch"
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"Chain tensioner o ring is a common one and an easy fix as long as you can get the right size o ring, the way the leaking oil spreads can make it look like the head though.
I should also point out I missed the P off my previous comment, I'm PFL so a bit lighter than yours due to the increased bracing on the FL.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well that's the window sorted - still working out what all the buttons do!

I have checked the plate in the engine bay in the back left, weights are as follows:

1225kg
1225kg
1 - 540
2 - 735

Really hope the car isn't 1,225 kg! I know its a facelift model but its not like it has air con or anything else special on it.

Also some of the oil does indeed look like its coming out the chain tensioner - is it worth getting the tensioner replaced or just swap out the seal? Might have a spare seal in the toolbox so could be a job tomorrow. There is also oil above that as well so it might also be a slightly leaking gasket - need to take the rocker cover off to check the chain tension between the cam gears for stretch but also to give it a clean up and paint.
The handbook states Gross Vehicle Mass as 1225kg.
I'm only a beginner but fairly confident there's not usually a problem with the tensioner itself, just the o ring, although it's worth making sure you've definitely got the correct replacement or you'll be doing it again in no time, granted it's only a 10 minute job.


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Just reading into it a bit more it seems that the 1,225kg is the max weight of the vehicle, just re-read the V5 and it states 'Mass in service - 1,105kg (not 1,140kg I remembered incorrectly). Does seem like a fair jump although that might be all up wet (kerb) weight including fluids (considering there is 10 litres of coolant etc!). The 950 might be the dry weight of the lighter PFL model? Either way I will be looking to drop some weight along the way, the TTE exhaust would have already removed weight and there are other bits I will be ditching soon as well after the initial run at Santapod. Using a 1/4 mile calculator and 140bhp @ 1,105kg its predicting a 16.3 1/4 mile, the weight might be down slightly with the TTE exhaust, decat manifold and BHP might be up say 5bhp which should land me at around 16 second 1/4 mile time - still fairly slow but a good baseline if I can run that time.

Call the midlife!

#54
The extra chassis bracing, bumpers, lights and interior features might well push the weight up to that, there's far more experienced members on here will probably be able to quote chapter and verse on the increases. I know my Fox exhaust added around 2kg over standard and don't imagine for a minute it increased the BHP, just the smiles per hour and that's enough for me!



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m1tch

#55
Quote from: "Call the midlife!"The extra chassis bracing, bumpers, lights and interior features might well push the weight up to that, there's far more experienced members on here will probably be able to quote chapter and verse on the increases. I know my Fox exhaust added around 2kg over standard and don't imagine for a minute it increased the BHP, just the smiles per hour and that's enough for me!



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Yeah I think the extra bracing was around 10kg, not sure how much of a difference in weight changing to the decat manifold is but I have what came off the car, the heat shields alone must be about 2kg!

I am tempted to see if I can find a weigh station and see what the car actually weighs, will make a note of the weight of anything I remove from the car so I can work back to the weight the car is now and the 1/4 mile times etc.

1979scotte

#56
My turbo car was corner weighted 1050kg.
My V6 probably only weighs 1100kg.
Tommy zoom has his down to less than 950kg.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

m1tch

#57
Quote from: "1979scotte"My turbo car was corner weighted 1050kg.
My V6 probably only weighs 1100kg.
Tommy zoom has his down to less than 950kg.

Thanks for the info, seems odd that the weight stated is 1,105kg, will just make a note of any weight I remove so when I do get the car weighed I can see how much the car was as it sits now.

1979scotte

#58
Quote from: "m1tch"
Quote from: "1979scotte"My turbo car was corner weighted 1050kg.
My V6 probably only weighs 1100kg.
Tommy zoom has his down to less than 950kg.

Thanks for the info, seems odd that the weight stated is 1,105kg, will just make a note of any weight I remove so when I do get the car weighed I can see how much the car was as it sits now.

Wiki quote the kerb weight as 996kg which i believe to be correct for pfl.
Fl gained better crash protection which added weight also seats and lights are heavier too.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

m1tch

#59
It seems that this car also has a rattle somewhere, currently looking into the possible cause, I thought it might be the gearbox input shaft bearings but it might be something as simple as the heat shield coming loose, will investigate further though.

m1tch

#60
I have now got 2 new tyres fitted, will be getting the fronts sorted as well at the moment as they aren't a good brand/one that I would trust with my life, they unfortunately have a lot of tread on them but will be swapping them out when I get the chance. I have driven the car for 2 days now to and from work getting used to the usual noises and feeling of the car, its a good little car but does need some work here and there.

Here is a list of things I am currently sorting/sorted:

New rear tyres - bought and fitted
Brake discs and pads
Adjust handbrake
Possibly rebuild rear calipers if sticking
Paint up brake calipers
New wiper blades - ordered
Hard top and fitting kit - arranged for a few weeks time
Refurb alloys
Find rattle in engine bay
Replace main cat O2 sensor
Replace/refresh number plates
Check bores/pistons of engine using bore webcam - arrived
Check current spark plugs for engine health
Compression check engine - ordered kit
Replace failed bulbs for instrument backlight
Check status of check engine light bulb on instrument PCB
Check camchain for play
Replace/reseat rocker cover gasket to sort possible leak
Replace cam chain O ring to repair main oil leak
Check for possible exhaust blow
Debadge rear
Replace 175,000 mile old fuel pump
Check steering U joint
Check rear subframe - initial check shows no rust but want to check closer
Replace incorrect locking wheel nuts with correct flat washer locking wheel nuts to avoid snapping studs
Paint hard top
Polish headlights to remove clouding

When I had the tyres changed the fitter commented that the hand brake was only working on 1 of the rear wheels, when I got home I noticed that the passenger rear alloy wheel was slightly warm indicating a possible seized caliper, I believe that the calipers have already been rebuilt, however the pads and discs are well past it - although the car brakes fine.

m1tch

#61
I have now had a look down the bores using the USB borescope, I can see that the piston tops are fairly carboned up, not sure if they are oily though but the good new is that I can see the outline of the casting marks on the top of the pistons - the circle meaning that they are probably in pretty good shape.

I have checked the plugs, they were Iridium plugs and I wouldn't say they were new but were ok, light gray soot on them so everything is burning well and no oil on them which is also good!

I am now in the process of removing the rocker cover to check for timing chain play, one stud is stuck so will soak that overnight.

Brake discs and pads have been ordered, will be adjusting the hand brake after those are fitted.

I have some paint stripper to try out on the alloys to prep them for repainting, still deciding on colour.

Need to order some new wheel nuts to replace the incorrect locking wheel nuts.

Have also checked the instrument cluster and found that the check engine light LED had been covered, will keep it covered until I have sorted out all of the O2 sensors.

m1tch

#62
Sorry for the bad photos so far, they are all taken on my phone so not ideal, will get some better photos of the car when I get into anything more interesting!

Here are some photos I took inside the cylinders, the quality isn't that good due to the cheap camera plus fairly poor lighting but you can make out the OEM marks on the piston tops:





Photo of the Iridium plugs I pulled out, top plug is the far left cylinder when looking at the engine:



Pulled the rocker cover to check the chain, everything looks pretty good, chain is tight:


m1tch

#63
Although I still need to polish up the rear to get rid of the very light outline of the badges, the rear has now been debadged:

Before



After



New number plates are on order as well, and I have some new locking wheel nuts coming that are the correct flat washer sort, hopefully I can remove the current conical ones without snapping the studs! Compression tester also arrived yesterday so will run a compression check when everything is back together.

shnazzle

#64
Those plugs! Oh my. They haven't been changes in a very very long time.
Been a while since I've seen them that bad.
Looks like valves may need some work as well. Quite a bit of deposit on them.
There will be some oil going through there (as well?)

I bet the car feels like new after a good service.
...neutiquam erro.

m1tch

#65
Quote from: "shnazzle"Those plugs! Oh my. They haven't been changes in a very very long time.
Been a while since I've seen them that bad.
Looks like valves may need some work as well. Quite a bit of deposit on them.
There will be some oil going through there (as well?)

I bet the car feels like new after a good service.

I know they are Iridium with extended service life but yeah they are fairly worn, have got some basic replacements to get me going, still got to put the rocker cover back on, hopefully the new gasket arrives today so I can put it all back together, will also look to do a compression test as well on them.

The photos at the top are for the top of the pistons - that's a photo through the spark plug hole to the top of the piston so its fairly coked up, at least I can still see the circle from the top of the OEM pistons though!

Not sure how much oil the car burns but there isn't any blue smoke at all even on acceleration, need to also replace the O ring on the tensioner (currently in the post).

Will be good to get it back together to enjoy the car again, I have new number plates on order and new locking wheel nuts arriving soon (current ones are the incorrect conical ones and hopefully the studs are ok!).

m1tch

#66
Looks like a new set of plates have arrived as well as the new locking wheel nuts and a replacement main cat O2 sensor, will look to get these all installed tonight and check on the OBD2 reader to see if I am getting a voltage from the main cat sensor. I am tempted to replace the main cat at some point as its done 175k miles which might mean its a bit past it and its already quite rusty.

Cabrioman

#67
Just been reading this thread.
What spoiler do you have on the back?
Sun Out - Roof Down
Whatever the Temperature

m1tch

#68
Quote from: "Cabrioman"Just been reading this thread.
What spoiler do you have on the back?

That's the standard TTE 'Banana' spoiler, both the TTE exhaust and the TTE spoiler were stock on my car, the TTE exhaust does sound really good, the TTE spoiler will be coming off and sold at some point soon.

I plan to run the car down the drag strip in the next couple of weeks to get a baseline 1/4 mile time for acceleration in the current 'as delivered' condition, I can then compare how each of the upgrades go in stages to see what makes a difference.

I can already see a fair amount of weight can be taken out the car but will be running the car as bought to see what it can do initially with the few mods it has.

I am still deciding on the route I want to go with the car, I am still tempted to stick with the 1zz and turbo it, however pistons and rods don't seem to be that common or readily available as for the 2zz.

The dilemma I have is that the current engine is high mileage, but the gearbox has an LSD, I could easily turbo it on stock internals and run low 200bhp, the engine is already in the car so could also easily change pistons and rods at a later date but they aren't easy to come by and I don't know how good the current bores are. The 2zz route is tempted as its the common upgrade, internal parts are easy to come by however there is extra cost in the fact that I don't have the engine plus I would need the C64 gearbox to be rebuilt to include the LSD so would need to get a spare LSD.

Will need to have a think, I have a feeling I might be going down the turbo 1zz route with a 2zz sat in the garage being worked on whilst I build up other parts like the gearbox, maybe even those uprated 3rd and 4th gears.

It's a shame that the 1zz doesn't really have many aftermarket internal parts but I guess the engine needs help to get from 140bhp to 210bhp whereas the 2zz with the same displacement is already up 40bhp more in stock form.

paul.mcgrath

#69
Hi , as you know from my thread that I'm in the same position .....

my 1zz engine lasted 2 years @ 176bhp fitted @ 77,000 if I remember rightly , but it totally transformed the car ,

after many suggestions here I just put another standard 1zz back in but now have some bits that should get it to 250bhp  as the kit was designed for , but how long will it last if driven hard .......

haven't had the car for a few months cause fitting monocraft kit and its taken longer than I was expecting , mates rates bodyshop ............ will run it @ 250 to see how it is but my mind is thinking MWR built 1zz with the stronger gears , don't think I want the expense of 2zz swap converting turbo and then it goes bang again .........
2000 MRS Blue , 2004 facelift engine , Whifbitz Turbo conversion 176bhp 190lbft, hardtop ,Meister coilovers, R8 18&19" wheels, Matt brace
facelift headlights , Monocraft bodykit

m1tch

#70
Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"Hi , as you know from my thread that I'm in the same position .....

my 1zz engine lasted 2 years @ 176bhp fitted @ 77,000 if I remember rightly , but it totally transformed the car ,

after many suggestions here I just put another standard 1zz back in but now have some bits that should get it to 250bhp  as the kit was designed for , but how long will it last if driven hard .......

haven't had the car for a few months cause fitting monocraft kit and its taken longer than I was expecting , mates rates bodyshop ............ will run it @ 250 to see how it is but my mind is thinking MWR built 1zz with the stronger gears , don't think I want the expense of 2zz swap converting turbo and then it goes bang again .........

I am tempted to look at the 1zz turbo route, at low boost it should be ok on stock internals, my engine is high mileage but until I have the head off I won't know if the bores are still ok, its done a lot of motorway miles and looks to have been daily driven from the first owner.

I know that I can do pistons and rods whilst the engine is still in as its a case of timing chain off, head off, sump off undo the rod bolts and remove (highly simplified but do able), I would class myself as having an ok mechanical skill level but will use this project as a way to increase that. The car isn't a daily drive so if it takes longer than expected I wouldn't be too worried, plus the car will probably be off the road over the winter so can take my time on a few things.

I am looking to see what I could do with the OEM parts, main thing I think needs looking at is the high compression ratio, might be able to drop the compression ratio slightly if I look to use a decompression plate on the engine, or indeed have a look at the OEM pistons. I can see that the OEM pistons aren't flat top so I could look to machine down the top so that its all level - eg removing the high spot without causing issues with the thickness of the crown and overall strength.

I know that the rods are a weak point but its torque that bends rods and the engine doesn't have a huge amount of torque, I will however look into any other alternative OEM Toyota rods from a different engine but same specs.

I will look to probably take the head off over winter and check the bores, change the pistons and rings to keep oil in check as well as possibly doing some head work in terms of regrinding valves, oil stem seals etc perhaps some gasket matching and a mild port/tidy up.

If the bores are ok and the block is good I would look to add some ARP head studs and decide on what head gasket I want to go with (if going thicker), I have a feeling a turbo 1zz will be perfectly adequate to make the car more enjoyable - when I was looking for a project car I didn't really want to do an engine swap but the 2zz swap is still an option down the road as its still fairly 'drop in'.

Will do some more research, I have a fair amount of spare pipework, turbos, intercoolers, fueling parts and meth injection parts sitting in the garage.

Will look to maximise the stock engine, the upgraded ECU would be happy with either engine and other parts such as the fueling would also work on both engines so I wouldn't lose anything if I did decide to go 2zz in the future, I am aware that looking to tune the 1zz is a slight uphill battle vs a 2zz but for me that will be part of the challenge.

I have however found I can get some H beam Molnar rods @ $414

 m http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods m

Or a set of ZRP forged rods @ £331:

 m http://forged-pistons.co.uk/webshop/zrp ... -toy-007h/ m

Looks like its the pistons that might be the issue getting hold of.

m1tch

#71
Rubbish 14 year old number plates have been taken off, shiny new ones fitted - needed to enlarge the holes slightly and use a rawl plug to use the standard fitment screws provided with the plates, no ugly rusty screws and peeling plates anymore - did notice that these have been on the MOT advisory list for a while!

m1tch

#72
I have now collected a hardtop and fitting kit, its currently red but I will look to prep and paint it a matt black which would basically match the original softtop, I will then look to get some solid hardtop mounts and only run with the hardtop on the car. Driving back with the hardtop its amazing how much quieter and warmer the car is vs just the softtop, coupled with the weight reduction it will be a great addition to the car.

I have checked the brakes again and it seems that the discs are amazing but are in OK condition, plenty of meat left on the front pads, not a huge amount on the rear pads - I have a full set of discs and pads to fit soon but just need a caliper wind back tool.

I have also bought off the forum a Dastek Unichip which is still being sold over in the US, it is premapped for intake, exhaust with a low/high octane map which I guess would be needed for the lower octane US fuel:

 m http://www.unichip.us/vehicle/vehicles/ ... Spyder-18L m

This will just be a stopgap ECU to maximise the stock engine in NA form until I get another aftermarket mappable ECU - which I am still deciding on.

The plan next is to go over to Santapod and run a few 1/4 mile passes to see the sort of acceleration the car has to see what the power to weight improvements moving forward - will be looking to run with 2 different setups:

As delivered weight - stock ECU
As delivered weight - Dastek ECU

After I have some baseline runs that I am happy with I will start removing some weight from the car, will be weighing everything that comes off the car so I can then workout how heavy the 'as delivered' weight is, I will also put the OEM exhaust heat shields in the car even though the car has an aftermarket decat manifold. The only weight reduction from stock would be the TTE exhaust which was factory fit for my car, this is probably countered by the TTE banana spoiler in terms of weight though!

I am still looking at mods further down the road in terms of engine swap/engine upgrade/turbo/supercharger, for the 1zz or 2zz engine here is how I see it at the moment:

Both routes will need:

Standalone ECU
Uprated radiator
Intercooler/charge cooler
Oilpan with turbo drain feed
Fueling/injectors
Clutch
Other supporting non engine mods eg brakes, half cage, wheels and tyre package etc

1zz-T route:

Pistons
Rods
ARP headstuds
Possible rebore

2zz-T route:

2zz engine swap
Pistons
ARP headstuds
C64 gearbox rebuild to include LSD

Looking at the MWR dyno figures (which are probably optimistic) it would seem that the 1zz built engine could hold the mid 300bhp mark with a stock engine running low 200s, with the 2zz running higher power but box breaking torque.

Thinking about a few factors I think I might look to run the 1zz and turbo that considering I initially don't need to open the engine up at all to run a fairly good power figure for the car's weight. Also the fact that I can swap pistons and rods whilst the engine is still in the car which would also be handy - unless it needs a rebore.

I know that the internals will cost more on the 1zz as I would need both rods and pistons, however I don't need to buy a completely new engine and swap, plus the bonus of already having an LSD as standard in the car so the 1zz turbo would be the 'cheaper' option. I might also be able to look into a way to mod the stock pistons to lower the compression ratio of them, plus any head work in terms of porting, might even look into decompression plates. Will be doing a compression test on the engine later to see how healthy the engine is, although I haven't noticed any oil level change after my first few hundred miles of driving in the car which is good to know.

I am taking inspiration from Leethesparky's build, although I won't be going widebody its good to see that you can reliably run a turbo on a stock block.

m1tch

#73
Quick update from the initial list of things to sort:

New rear tyres - Done
Brake discs and pads - bought, but only rears need sorting, fronts have plenty of pad, plan to do that soon
Adjust handbrake - After rear pads fitted
Possibly rebuild rear calipers if sticking - Need to check condition of rear calipers
Paint up brake calipers - WIll do at the same time as rear pads
New wiper blades - Fitted
Hard top and fitting kit - Fitted
Refurb alloys - waiting for weather to improve
Find rattle in engine bay - Think this is the manifold heat shield, still investigating
Replace main cat O2 sensor - Replaced and working
Replace/refresh number plates - replaced
Check bores/pistons of engine using bore webcam - checked, carbon build up isn't too bad after longer run
Check current spark plugs for engine health - Plugs were worn, have replaced with new
Compression check engine - cold compression test shows even pressure on all cylinders
Replace failed bulbs for instrument backlight - need to order bulbs once I work out which ones I need
Check status of check engine light bulb on instrument PCB - check engine light has tape in front of it within the cluster
Check camchain for play - No play, chain tight
Replace/reseat rocker cover gasket to sort possible leak - Gasket changed when checking cam chain
Replace cam chain O ring to repair main oil leak - O ring has arrived, fitting soon
Check for possible exhaust blow - Exhaust seems ok although is slightly rusted, TTE exhaust is original
Debadge rear - done
Replace 175,000 mile old fuel pump - still to do
Check steering U joint - still to do
Check rear subframe - initial check shows no rust but want to check closer - looks ok but will take off heat shields to check
Replace incorrect locking wheel nuts with correct flat washer locking wheel nuts to avoid snapping studs - replaced with flat washer sort
Paint hard top - paint ordered
Polish headlights to remove clouding - headlights polished up a bit but don't seem too bad

Main things I have to do are:

Hard top painting
Wheel refurb
Rear brake pad replacement/hand brake adjusting

I have a Dastek unichip to try out soon, have ordered some 5 point security torx bits to remove the security shield, this will allow me to run with or without the Dastek down the 1/4 mile to see the difference in stock 'as delivered' weight before I start removing weight from the car.

I am also looking into future power options as the Dastek will probably maximise the engines power in the current condition, its high mileage so not expecting miracles from the performance but will see what it does in NA form.

After a good think I am going to look to go this tuning route to maximise power to weight:

Stage 0 - As delivered weight and OEM map
Stage 1 - As delivered weight with Dastek remap
Stage 2 - Reduced weight with Dastek remap
Stage 3 - Reduced weight with standalone ECU
Stage 4 - Turbocharging on stock internals, low boost
Stage 5 - Replacement built engine with upgraded rods, pistons etc, low/high boost

I will look to get a spare 1zz engine with the stock MR2 6 speed gearbox to rebuild it in the garage over an extended period of time with a plan to fit:

Engine rebore (rebore depending on used engine specs)
Uprated pistons (low compression)
Uprated rods
Valvetrain upgrade - stiffer springs to cope with boost behind valves
ARP headstuds
Uprated bearings
Lightened flywheel
Uprated clutch
Rebuild 6 speed gearbox with stock LSD, upgraded 3rd and 4th gears

m1tch

#74
I have now painted the red hardtop in a satin black - was mean to be a matt black however they sent over the incorrect paint, still looks good though, needs a few bits touching up but wanted it to mirror the OEM softtop.

Just took some very very quick photos last night after refitting the hardtop.