Gary's Track Day/Fast Road Weekend Car (1ZZ turbo) Now 2zz Turbo

Started by Gaz2405, March 11, 2019, 20:39

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threepot

It's not something daft like the VVT is retarding back when the lift solenoid is open. E.g. a leak in the lift hydraulics thus the VVT pulley is retarding as oil pressure drops. Or a voltage supply problem, so when the ECU is firing the second solenoid the supply voltage is sagging to the first. Just stupid blind ideas!

Gaz2405

Sooo. Haven't touched the car since my last post been too busy with work and other life thinhs!

But today it got some love, oil and filter change.

Then out to try this 3" exhaust idea.

First thoughts were, I hope this doesn't fix it because its far too loud!


So it wasn't that, that was the issue loft still felt sluggish.

So I started sweeping the cam angle range to see if that helped.

I was originally set at 587, so in went up 29 degrees and tried a pull and I got lots of hesitation.

Right we're getting somewhere.

So I tried 575, tried a pull and it was better.

Ended up settling at 567, with 50 degree max retard or advance.

This seemed to be the sweet spot for idle and a good strong lift.

Was running out of time so set lift at 5200rpm.

The car totally transformed!

Thank feck for that.

I'll spend tomorrow putting back on my 2.5" exhaust.

Time for some track days now!

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Great afternoon mapping on the road today.

Lift set at 4600 seems to be the sweet spot.

I've been having some low speed rear wheel hop, which is pointing towards the diff being on its way out as I also get one tyre fire setting off at pace.

So I've ordered a box from Hooligan racing with the Celica gear set, LSD and MR2 6th.

Should make the most of my set up this way.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Sooooo long awaited update.

Gearbox from Hooligan racing never happened.

Chased for invoice for payment a couple of times, never materialised.

Guess they're just busy, I'm sure if I've had chase more it would have got sorted. But hey ho here we are.

So gearbox is on the back burner.

I'd left the car for a few months outside and it was feeling sorry for itself.

You cannot view this attachment.

So one weekend I decided to get it up in the Tampa and tick of a few smalls jobs ready for its MOT.

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Jobs on the list were:

Convert the sump to studs rather than bolts. I'd had a few strip on me so needed to helicoil a few of them.

Oil and filter change.

I'd had an annoying small coolant leak that I couldn't trace.

1st two went without a hitch.....

The annoying coolant leak....

It was actually coming from the top of the thermostat housing where the hard pipe meets that goes around the side of the block.

One of the fixings had some how sheared so it was only held in by one bolt and would only leak/wrap with the engine off.

I took the hard pipe off/out of the way to try and get something on the broken stud. Not happening not enough room.

Seeing as this was a put me on engine and the leak was only small and only when cool I  continued to bodge it good and proper.

Left the stud in, took the small steel gasket out and ran a small bead of sump sealant and tightened back down.

The result..... no more water leak... successful bodge.

I also had a ropey racing engine vent to fit.

So with the car now back up and running, I had a play about with the idle AFR and enrichment on the ECU ready for the MOT.

Got them all to where I feel it needs to be.

So the car is now ready for its MOT and a few more track days.

In other news my forged engine was striped down and inspected.

The weeping head gasket seems to be an installation issue, or poor inferior head gasket as the head itself is fine.

So a new set of ARP head bolts (to be in the safe side) and the head is back on and torqued down to spec in 3 Equal steps.

Fully rebuilt oil pump has arrived today so well start building to whole engine back up soon.

 
 


1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

So MOT next week.

Car is running great at the moment.

It's pulling the strongest it's ever pulled.

I think I actually prefer the slightly longer gears of the 1zz six speed.

With lift being activated at 5600rpm, I don't actually drop out of it on changes.

Picked up some GB side skirts a couple of weeks ago too.

Boost controller has been wired in and ready to be plumbed for a high and low boost option.

Currently running waste gate pressure.

10psi tailing off to 8psi at the end.

I had booked on the Toyota track day at Donnington,but that got cancelled yesterday.

I'll most likely end up getting a few in at Blyton in the next couple of months.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Successful MOT yesterday....

Started dropping its coolant whilst out mapping today....aahhh!!

Difficult one to find, it was leaking from the IACV. It's somehow got loose on the three screws.

So coolant dropped, charge cooler dropped just to get access to nip them up, put a dab of thread locker on just to make sure!

Both systems bled back up and out for some mapping.

I wanted to do some back to back playing with the Vvti settings, after watching a few tutorials online and the best way to try and do it on the road.

I set out with my various settings and using the virtual Dyno tool on the Emu black and I seem to have it as best I'll get it.

Cam cross over is at 5600rpm with a smooth transition.

Peak boost pressure of 12psi at 4.5k tailing off to 10psi all the way to 8.3k.

I've aired on the side of caution with AFr's and have them at 11.5 whilst under full boost and WOT.

Next is to plumb in the boost controller, and start raising the boost.

With the Td04 turbo, I'm assuming 14psi will be achievable/manageable.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

More playing with the Vvti map yesterday, contrary to what you read on the internet the car seems to love some cam advance on boost, with noticeable gains from 3.5k to 5.5k.

3 Port MAC boost controller now installed and running through the set up for closed loop

A few issues last night with it over boosting, but a 190kpa failsafe fuel cut saving the day whilst testing.

Some more research last night and I seem to have cracked it now though, so I'll be out again next week playing with the boost control.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Since the video update I've been playing with the boost control, been looking to set peak boost at 190kpa or 13psi.

Setting up the boost DC ref table is relatively straight forwards for open loop boost control but its trial and error setting up the PID settings for closed loop. The issue is I'm having a boost spike and the PID controller (with the settings I've tried) is struggling to stop the spike as it rises. I've set a fuel cut at 205kpa to stop massive over boost, but its still frustrating.

So in order to combat this and by going on some threads from the New Celica and Spyderchat, I've just decided to up my wastegate pressure spring and go for a higher base rate anyway.

Reason being I'm only using a small turbo compared to some of the GT28's that are being used in the states.

So plan is to run a 15psi spring with my TD04 turbo, which will be close to its efficiency by all accounts.

I've also been experimenting with lift crossover, I've gone back to 6.2k for lift engagement, reason being that for spirited road driving it means I still have a nice torquey pull up to that point and the transition to lift at that point is very smooth.

In other news I've found where my NSR wheel hop is coming from.....Spherical bearing has shat itself so I've ordered a new set along with a full bushing kit and rear wheel bearing from GT4 Play.

I'll hopefully get out tonight to test the new wastegate spring.

Also got a couple of choices to go in for mapping towards the end of October, RRR or Crisp Tuning.

 
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Muchos success last night at testing the new waste gate spring.

205kpa Peak tailing off to 190kph at 8200, turbo most likely can't keep up.

My testing road for using the EMU Black's built in Virtual dyno shows good improvements across the whole rev range and shows a much smoother power band.

I went with caution and took out quite a bit of timing after recalibrating the map upto 220kpa.

Next step is to start adding in the timing again to really see the benefits.

I think this will be the max that this little turbo can do, we'll most likely leave it here, get a power run done.

Enjoy it for a while and then get the built motor in sometime in the new year ready for next seasons track days.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Nvy

Just a question, maybe you wrote it somewhere but I missed it. Did you modify the manifold in any way and did you use longer studs or bolts? I have the same one and want to stock some parts before the build starts.

Gaz2405

Quote from: Nvy on October  6, 2022, 06:02Just a question, maybe you wrote it somewhere but I missed it. Did you modify the manifold in any way and did you use longer studs or bolts? I have the same one and want to stock some parts before the build starts.

Longer studs for the 1zz.

2zz was fine and didn't nerd them.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Managed to get a couple of hours out mapping tonight.

Wanted to try a few things with the Vvti timing.

I'd looked up the standard 2zz Vvti cam position at WOT throughout the rev range.

My theory was that the Vvti needs to be at around 25° at cross over for the smoothest transition, then tapered down on to zero ° of advance by red line.

By moving the cross over point and altering the Vvti advance I was hoping to lower the cross over whilst still maintaining as smooth and as much space under the "Dyno" curve as possible.

Whilst it's not an exact science using the inbuilt virtual Dyno, it at least gives me tangible data based on the same bit of road.

After 8-10 runs I've settled on a 5.8k cross over point.

I'd previously been out on Monday night and managed to get a load of timing added back into the map.

I've now got my knock sensor and parameters set up to pull ignition should be there be any knock as well to be on the safe side, but we're just about there now.





1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Out for more mapping today, task was to really try and get the Vvti map nailed, then look at playing around with cross over points.


After chasing my tail for about 2 hours, I more or less ended up where I was before I started!

All good fun though.

Came home and put a couple of extra turns on the wastegate actuator rod, thinking behind this was to have slightly higher peak and hold it for a little longer.

Peak is now at 205kpa tailing off to 190  kpa at 8.3k.

First two pulls and I started to show a misfire.

Straight home, pull the plugs. NGK Bkr6e-11 's gapped to 0.032" regapped them to 0.028".

Back out and the misfire's gone(few!)

Car now making peak boost from 2.8k to 6k and is rapid!

1zz 6spd box and 2zz turbo for me go together brilliantly!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

So annoyingly, my bidge job of fixing my old coolant leak seems to not have worked.

This is the one where one of the M6 studs has snapped where the hard pipe goes to the top of the thermostat housing.

I'd fixed down with just one bolt and used rtv, but its a blind job and you can't properly see.

Came out to the car last night to a small pool of coolant, its obviously dropping the amount of coolant left in the hardpipe.

I'm in two minds whether to just keep an eye on it, as it only leaks when its cooling down and turned off, it doesn't leak at all when running.

Other option is:

I've got a week off coming up next week and might just bite the bullet and get the built engine back in.

Half a day to drop the old one out, half a day swapping bits over.

Half a day to get the new one in.

and bobs your bob.

 
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

So decided to bite the bullet and pull the engine.

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4 hours to get the lino out, tried a different method this time as I couldn't be bothered to get the engine crane out to lift the car up high, so went with bringing the subframe out with it too.

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Now that was out I had a day or so swapping bits over.

Before I put it back in I have the engine bay a good clean and took care of a few rust spots.

I'd also welded in a new bulk head mount for the strut brace that I'd got from J spec as I'd stripped the threads on mine.

So the forged lump is now back in and the Holset HX32.

Got everything connected back up today, next job is to re-bush the whole car.

I also need to replace one of the rear brake hard lines as I nipped it with the subframe.

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You can really tell the difference between the turbo's and charge coolers!

You cannot view this attachment.

 

 
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

puma2

 :)  :) keep going love to see how this gets on :)  :)
do you enjoy the spanner work and engine know how :)

Gaz2405

Quote from: puma2 on October 28, 2022, 07:24:)  :) keep going love to see how this gets on :)  :)
do you enjoy the spanner work and engine know how :)

Thanks. Yep I enjoy the spanner work million miles away from what I do at work and gives me time to relax and not think about anything.

Pain when you hit hurdles though!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Final bits today.

Swapped over sumps. Elise parts one had a thorough clean in the dish washer .... :))

Oil feed and return.

Had a few sump bolts strip the threads, but luckily I was ready with a spare sumo stud conversion kit I'd bought.

I'll let the sealant set and get some oil in her tomorrow.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Had another session ok it this afternoon.

Whipped the hubs off and all the control arms.

ABS sensors where stuck fast so they got snipped and punched out in the bench.

Managed to get all of the bushes out without much hassle apart from one.

Heated them all up from the outside and had a selection of deep sockets that fitted the bill for knocking them out.

One more hub to do tomorrow, spherical bearing took some getting in, but some threaded bar later and a 32mm socket as a spacer and it was in.

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Bushes, hubs and arms all done and refurbished.

Got a few finishing touches in the exhaust hangers and final clamps.

Vac lines all connected.

Charge cooler water pipe work done.

Engine filled with oil.

Just awaiting abs speed sensors and brake hard line.

Thejniya hubs back on, drive shafts, full the gearbox and we're done.
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Awful quality video, but first turn of keya and she's alive.


Running on old map so will need to double check cam and crank timing.

Hubs all on and drive shafts in this after noon meant I could fill the gearbox and get her started.

I'll do a rough alignment and get the new abs sensors and brake hard lines in this evening and hopefully.

Get the the Mrs to pump the brake pedal in the morning and we should be good to go and see some real boost!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

So this morning didn't really go to plan.

Which was fit new brake and enjoy boost.

Instead it went like this:

Struggle like feck on NS the rear toe adjuster bolt.

New bolt required.

Ended up disconnecting the rear toe arm from the hub and getting it as close by eye then tightening the bolt up.

Which then meant a lot of force required to get the hub side in.

This was then followed by looking at replacing the NSR brake hard line. Which when you've got a full flat floor, bracing and charge cooler lines going everywhere is a nightmare.

After removing the flat floor I have it up as a bad job and just ordered a new flaring took as I could find my old one and I'll make a repair to the original line!

Then had a drive over to Aron's to pick up a couple of spare rear wings and his engine compartment cover he'd had fabricated for the bulk head
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Little bit of time on the car today.

Rear brake line repaired.

Idle sorted.

Had to slip on a an extra muffler to not annoy the neighbours too much.


Full coolant bleed next.

Then the VVt solenoid decided it didn't want to hold back any oil and started shitting it out everywhere.....

In was the intake solenoid which is a pain in the bumbum to get to, especially with a return fuel rail on.

But it's swapped and now holding it's oil in the engine!

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

Gaz2405

Well she's out and running and boosting!

Wow just wow!

15psi on HX32 is waaayyy different to a TD04!

1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0