Almost free MR2 project

[Bossworld]

On to the engine...

Time for an oil and filter change but the sump was covered in rust so we got a 2nd hand one from a breakers(avoided the Ebay copies from China to ensure a good fit) and pulled the sump. While there it gave an opportunity to inspect the crank and big ends (it's got a crank...).

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While there we put a new drive belt on as the old one was looking pretty tired. Left overnight for the sealant to cure before firing up with the new oil.

Just wanted to say thanks for the two pics, did mine last week and was a handy guide to know I wasn't putting too much sealant on, and that the underside of my engine looks OK!

[Captain Vimes]

With a bit of time over the Easter weekend the Koni install is finally underway.

Front suspension came apart easily (well, nothing broke and everything moved with the right size breaker bar) and fitting the inserts was simpler than I expected as well.

The most time consuming bit was cleaning up the struts with a wire brush and applying some black hammerite before putting it back together again.

The rusty mess that came off.
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Wire brushed and cut down.
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Brushed on hammerite applied.
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Inserts slotted in.
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All rebuilt with koni inside plus new bump stops, dust boots and top mounts.
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The old dampers and top mounts actually seemed to be smooth and despite appearances operating well.

[Captain Vimes]

Fronts now refitted and a couple of access holes added so the damping can be adjusted easily.

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On to the rear struts today.

As expected the rear drop links were a stubborn. With the help of a blow torch they're off in one piece and reusable but I'm going to order some new ones anyway while it's in pieces. It'll give me time to sort the struts and let the paint dry before refitting it all.

Jobs list while it's in pieces include:

- replace o2 sensor
- sort out rattling exhaust heat shields
- sort out stiff and squeaky clutch pedal. Unfortunately it looks like it's the clutch fork and access looks challenging! Not looking forward to sorting to that one.

[Topdownman]

Looking forward to hearing what you think about the konis (whenever that may be!).

[Bossworld]

Fronts now refitted and a couple of access holes added so the damping can be adjusted easily.

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On to the rear struts today.

As expected the rear drop links were a stubborn. With the help of a blow torch they're off in one piece and reusable but I'm going to order some new ones anyway while it's in pieces. It'll give me time to sort the struts and let the paint dry before refitting it all.

Jobs list while it's in pieces include:

- replace o2 sensor
- sort out rattling exhaust heat shields
- sort out stiff and squeaky clutch pedal. Unfortunately it looks like it's the clutch fork and access looks challenging! Not looking forward to sorting to that one.

It's doable, you need

A) the car high enough to get in and around there
B) unbolt the slave and move it out of the way (somewhat easier said than done, I didn't like putting stress on the hard line)
C) some suitable grease and some cotton buds - think mine possibly isn't high enough temp rated
D) a bit of dexterity to get the fork seal seated again afterwards

[Captain Vimes]

Thanks. I had a poke around today with the car up on axle stands. Looks do-able but awkward. My clutch fork looks very rusty so it may need gearbox removal to do it properly.

Any tips on what might constitute suitable grease?

[Bossworld]

I used a tub of Wilko bearing grease - I had to do it twice as first time out using a screwdriver as recommended on videos, I was nowhere near where I needed to be (hence cotton buds).

Dick Sloan has mentioned some high temp Honda stuff before, when mine inevitably squeaks again I'll look to get some

Bear with me and I'll dig out some pics

[Bossworld]

This is the devil (with the red markings on it). I used a cotton bud to wipe away what little was left on there, and then another to really get in there. Helps to wiggle the fork around too






Here's why you can't just stick a screwdriver/paintbrush up there. Plenty of grease there but none where it actually needs to be

[Captain Vimes]

That's great thank for the photos!

[Captain Vimes]

Jobs done this weekend.

Rear konis installed with new bump stops, dust boots, top mounts and drop links. Not much to see in a picture as it's all hidden but here goes:

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I struggled to find part numbers for top mounts so for reference for others I used:

- Front: Corteco 80001711
- Rear:  KYB SM5799

So that's the suspension all sorted now. The old dampers were stamped KYB so not sure if they have previously been replaced or if oem dampers were KYB. Either way, looking forward to driving it now!

It's also had a new O2 sensor, the one in the exhaust not the manifold. I used a Denso DOX 209 which needed the wires cutting/crimping. The crimp connectors supplied with the sensor were great quality.

And finally the clutch is sorted! The clutch fork has some grease on it but most importantly the pedal itself needed adjustment. It was sitting really, really high and had a weird hesitation half way up the travel. Now it's adjusted properly it's so much better.

Another little job was sorting the exhaust heat shield rattle by drilling out and replacing rusted bolts:

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And found the cause of the heated rear window not working was as simple as a blown fuse. New fuse and all sorted.

So that's all the mechanical bits sorted. Next on the list are some cosmetic bits, starting with headlight restoration and then some black leather dye to restore the seat bolster. At this rate I'm going to run out of jobs to do!

[Bossworld]

Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7.  I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762

[Captain Vimes]

Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7.  I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762

I'd assume it's the same. No point in Toyota making changes to something off the shelf that works perfectly well.

Physically they looked identical to the oem mounts. The only difference is these have sealed bearings instead of open.

[Bossworld]

Interestingly, that part number for the fronts comes up as Corolla/Celica Gen 7.  I wonder if it's another case of Toyota using the same part but changing the number, or if there's any actual difference.

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/corteco/2103762

I'd assume it's the same. No point in Toyota making changes to something off the shelf that works perfectly well.

Physically they looked identical to the oem mounts. The only difference is these have sealed bearings instead of open.

Yep they look nigh on identical to the Japanparts/Ashika ones I fitted (RU-2320)

[Captain Vimes]

I've finally had a chance to drive the car with the KONI dampers!

I think the biggest compliment I can give them is it feels like a modern car. It soaks up the bumps nicely but also controls the car really well, no floating or vagueness just a nice locked down feeling and a nice balance front/rear. It's exactly what I was looking for.

The dampers have 2 full turns of adjustment. I have them set at 1/2 a turn from fully soft but haven't played with different settings yet. I suspect a slightly firmer setting would be better on a fast run but I really need to set up the geometry and replace the 9 year old tyres before getting bogged down in fine damper adjustment settings.

Very pleased with the purchase.

[thetyrant]

They are good arent they    i run same setting as you for normal road use and it works well, it feels a touch softly damped if really pressing on but still controls car body well, setting to 1 full turn from soft gives a noticeable stiffer ride ideal for fast road work but does degrade ride quality slightly, just depends what you prefer most.

[Captain Vimes]

So, still very happy with the suspension but what is apparent is that my 125k mile PFL 1zz has a mild drinking problem. Which will come as no surprise to anyone on this forum.

I haven't had to top the oil up yet but it's slowly dropping down the dipstick and with the roof off the odour of burnt oil follows it around

I've been looking at options and if I can find a well priced/low mileage 2zz option then it's a no brainer BUT.... the only engines I can find for sale either have over 100k miles or are still in a clean/expensive celica. At which point the hassle and cost factor are too high.

The other option is to buy a high mileage 2zz. But that doesn't appeal either as the block can't be bored/honed without fitting liners. So you either fit a high mileage engine or spend lots more on the swap than makes sense with a full engine rebuild.

In comparison, the 1zz parts from MAG seem well priced: gaskets, main bearings, rings, valve stem oil seals etc all for under £200. The current engine is quiet and runs well (except the drinking habit). So right now the plan is to pull and rebuild the 1zz. Probably wait until the end of summer and just top up oil until then.

Have I missed an obvious cost on the 1zz rebuild? Or a cheaper source if 2zz parts?

[Alex Knight]

2ZZs can run very well with higher mileages. Mine has circa 120K on now, and is sweet as can be.

Mileage is way less important than regular and correct maintenance in my opinion.

[thetyrant]

Im in same boat mine has started drinking at 105k, i bought the car to 2zz swap initially but after a year of fun at stock power i turbo'd instead, however this highlighted the oil drinking problem so removed it and stupidly probably sold turbo!
Ive now bought a good non-burning 76k mile 1zz from Dick sloan which is planned to go in when i get chance and then pull mine apart to possibly rebuild it, but im still tempted by a 2zz or even buying a ready 2zz car if right one comes along, as you have found most engines out there are high miles which is ok if looked after however most i would say are not these days as the cars became cheaper and fell into hands of people who dont care or understand how complex the 2zz is and needs proper care and servicing, as others have found out its a bit of a lottery and it puts me off!....i missed out on a good known celica 2zz at right money last year which had 120k on but well serviced and running sweet for £700 for whole car!  doh

I will probably fit this 1zz unless i find a suitbale 2zz car... or motor!  in meantime will just keep this one topped up and enjoy it

[Captain Vimes]

I haven't really considered buying a replacement low mileage 1zz. There's  definitely an appeal to the simplicity but nervous of getting another duffer...

Maybe I'll drop Dick Sloan a message and see what he has.

[thetyrant]

Yes i was a bit wary of used 1zz but as he is local to me i was able to pop up and view it running in the car before he removed it and pop valvecover off to inspect in there, all seemed good but i wont know for sure until i get it in my car and give it a good run.

My reasoning were its easier and much cheaper to swap it than doing 2zz and i can always rebuild mine if it doesnt work out, as above im also on lookout for a decent 2zz car and was very tempted with Bodgeroos in for sale but didnt fancy taking the risk with its noisy topend, which happening after being rebuilt just sounded like a potential heap of trouble to me.

Dick will keep you right and if you had problems with engine im sure he would help out sorting another/refund etc and not just turn his back like some!

[Captain Vimes]

Been in contact with Dick today. He has a face lift engine with 85k on it.

I'm going with that option for exactly the reasons you state: it's the easiest option and Dick seems very honest, so it should all work out OK.

If not then I can always fall back to rebuilding the current engine.

[thetyrant]

Been in contact with Dick today. He has a face lift engine with 85k on it.

I'm going with that option for exactly the reasons you state: it's the easiest option and Dick seems very honest, so it should all work out OK.

If not then I can always fall back to rebuilding the current engine.

Sounds like a plan , if i dont end up fitting the one ive got from him for whatever reason im sure it will sell on as he has a good rep and isnt just in it for the money like most.

 

[Captain Vimes]

Finally found some time to start on the engine swap today.

11am:
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6pm, with my son looking happy that it's finally out:

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Pretty straight forward. The worst bit was getting the plug disconnected for the crank sensor which is buried right under the inlet manifold and needs two hands where there's only space for a screwdriver! Must have taken an hour of time to figure it out but got there in the end.

Spotted that the exhaust flexi is dead so will replace that while I'm there (if anyone has a standard cat with good flexi that you don't want, let me know).

[Captain Vimes]

Just ordered a new replacement cat.I just keep throwing money at this 'cheap car'!

It's going to be mechanically very sound once done.

Hopefully it'll be back in one piece ready for the weekend if the exhaust arrives in time.

[Captain Vimes]

Quick update on progress.

New cat and exhaust gaskets arrived today so I was able to bolt it on and fire it up.

All running fine on the drive but can't drive it yet as I need to replace the inner CV boots, which have split with all the moving of driveshafts when taking the engine out.

I ordered a Klarius cat and fitting kit from Partsinmotion (eBay seller). Delivery was really fast and the quality looks good too. There's no heat shields to rattle and it's definitely quieter with a flexi that's not leaking!

This one in case anyone is interested:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333582862561

Gaskets:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/333651203255

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