Pre Face Lift and Face Lift

[Carolyn]

So for those that have or will read the links.

Now need a means of identifying the "optifit" short blocks.

No engine number.

[Petrus]

So for those that have or will read the links.

Now need a means of identifying the "optifit" short blocks.

No engine number.

Lóving it; reads like a mystery novel :-)

[Ardent]

For my clarity.

Is that:-
1, do I have an engine number as a ref point.
or
2, that is the identifier. The engine has no number.

I'm leaning towards 2.

[Ardent]

So for those that have or will read the links.

Now need a means of identifying the "optifit" short blocks.

No engine number.

Lóving it; reads like a mystery novel :-)

I do my best.
And on occasion, what needs to be done.

[Carolyn]

The short blocks have no engine number, as I understand....

[Ardent]

@Carolyn
Page 15 of the first link says they do. But does not give a from this engine no.
https://ln.sync.com/dl/0a8761f70/pttpx2dv-e734nh82-2tcnuhw6-cint5ted

[MisterK]

I bought my Facelift new from the Toyota Dealer (Inchcape in Burton) in 2004 - I did not buy a PFL, so I think that says it all. 

My first experience of a FL was when I came up behind one just after they were launched & I remember thinking 'that looks good'.  The rear lights were a massive improvement over the PFL, the rear bumper inserts - colour coded looked better, the rear bumper & numberplate holder looked better.

A year or so later a full colour brochure for the 'Red' Edition dropped through my door courtesy of Mr T (I had already owned a Starlet, Carina E, Avensis CDX and Corolla 1.6SR so I was on their mailing list).  Sure enough the brochure worked.  I liked the front bumper, Fog lights, Headlight design, Painted colour coded side vents, seats with a hole, 6 speed gear box, 15" front & 16" rear wheels and the rear of the car as already mentioned.  I also liked the improved safety features over the PFL - door crash bars, bracing etc.  I was not too keen on the look of the radio, but it's still in the car and is perfectly adequate for my requirements.

At the time I could not afford the 'Red' edition, so I ordered an Astral black model which was completely standard - the cheapest way I could get the car.  I would have loved to add some of the options from the MR2 Roadster accessories catalogue, but I didn't have the money.  However, it has been an interesting journey 'modifying' the car and adding accessories, so now after over 15 years I have the car exactly as I want it including a hard top, full Toyota Body Kit, TTE Sport Spoiler, TTE Exhaust TTE Lowering Springs etc etc.

The engine is completely standard apart from a K&N Panel filter and Mk111 pipe - it even still has its precats. (sharp intake of breath from everyone reading this  )  It does not burn a drop of oil - I've never topped it up in 15 years, its been serviced and the oil changed every year by Mr T and a couple by done by Steve at D1 Customs.  The car is now used as a show car - its appeared at the NEC twice on the Toyota Drivers Club stand at the Practical Classics Show and I regularly take it to car shows throughout the summer - it's very rarely driven in the winter, only being taken out on clean dry roads to give it a run.

I love my Roadster, but for me it had to be a Facelift.  The enhancements that Toyota made in 2003, especially to the looks of the car, the lights front and rear, are what prompted me to take the plunge and buy one - I hadn't even contemplated buying a PFL. 

I know a lot won't agree with my choice and actually prefer the PFL, but personally I'm very happy with my choice & still love the car after 15 years and have no intention of ever selling it     

[Joesson]

@Ardent -Interesting reading Jason.
Ref " parts" link pages 7 and 14 there is reference to an additional 0.5 L of oil and a new dipstick with a green dot on the pull ring indicating a revised plus 10mm full level.

(As a side note page 8 gives Toyota's recommendation for first start up of engine after rebuild to ensure oil is where it should be. Pretty much as discussed on here a couple of weeks back )

So, a green dot on the dipstick pull ring could be a simple indicator of engine work/ replacement.

I wonder if an extra 0.5L of oil would be a good thing for all of us?
I suggest that perhaps we shouldn't be too worried if we do accidentally overfill by a 0.5 L or so.

[Petrus]

Dean at Rutland MR2 reckons the pfl steel was better .

Stateside Dev finds this reason for ridicule:

https://www.mr2-spyder.com/community/main-forum/face-lift-spyders-use-inferior-steel/#post-4976

Ah, internet and opinions.

[Petrus]

I wonder if an extra 0.5L of oil would be a good thing for all of us?
I suggest that perhaps we shouldn't be too worried if we do accidentally overfill by a 0.5 L or so.

I wondered about that too.
On the other hand my car gradually lowers the oil level to just under half and there it stays.

Thanks for sharing MisterK.
My priorities and preferences differ*, but mán do I agree about the rear light units; will not hesitate to update if I find a good affordable set.

* all is relative; I would happily own ány MR2 Spyder, even an inferior steel one (tongue só far in cheek it hurts).

[Ardent]

@Ardent -Interesting reading Jason.
Ref " parts" link pages 7 and 14 there is reference to an additional 0.5 L of oil and a new dipstick with a green dot on the pull ring indicating a revised plus 10mm full level.

(As a side note page 8 gives Toyota's recommendation for first start up of engine after rebuild to ensure oil is where it should be. Pretty much as discussed on here a couple of weeks back )

So, a green dot on the dipstick pull ring could be a simple indicator of engine work/ replacement.

I wonder if an extra 0.5L of oil would be a good thing for all of us?
I suggest that perhaps we shouldn't be too worried if we do accidentally overfill by a 0.5 L or so.

NO!
The devil is in the detail. All of the mentioned cars in doc EXCEPT the MR2.
Think its in the table that lists the parts and oil dip stick sub assembly or something.

[SV-3]

The short blocks have no engine number, as I understand....

Not sure that's true - anyway here's my two'pennorth:

The first document (the "OPTIFIT" document - dated March 2007) specifically provides numbers for the short blocks that replace the original short blocks - see the first table on page 4.
This is important because the vehicles mentioned in the document (Note:the MR2 is specifically excluded) appear to have been subject to an official "Recall", which required the vehicle owner to advise DVLA of the number of the replacement short block (effectively a "new engine" - see page 15 - this would explain why MR2's do not have amended V5's and accompanying "urban mythology"?
Note that where an "OPTIFIT" was not available/applicable it would appear that the solution was to fit revised Pistons and Ring Sets - see the second table on page 4.

The second document (the Service Bulletin - dated May 2006 and therefore pre-dating the "OPTIFIT" document) references the MR2 together with the model types in the "OPTIFIT" document but appears to preclude UK/European cars - see page 1, certainly there is no reference to a recall or DVLA notification being required.
However, importantly, it applies to "...vehicles produced BEFORE the Production change effective VIN's shown below" which for the MR2 is JTD FR3201 00074980 July 2005 (see page 7).
Interestingly, the MR2 Short Block Assy's are shown as 11400-22060 and then 11400-22061 (at least for May 2000 to July 2003) and in the "OPTIFIT" document 11400-22061 becomes 11400-22061-84 (for the Celica ZZT230 at least).
The Service Bulletin allows for Short Block replacement where the cylinders exhibit abnormal wear - see page 2.

See what you think.

[Ardent]

I bought my Facelift new from the Toyota Dealer
The engine is completely standard apart from a K&N Panel filter and Mk111 pipe - it even still has its precats. (sharp intake of breath from everyone reading this  )  It does not burn a drop of oil - I've never topped it up in 15 years,

There it is, right there. Simple, solid, good old fashioned regular maintenance.
And in the links above. Toyotas no 1 reason for oil burning. Poor maintenance.

[Ardent]

@Ardent -Interesting reading Jason.
Ref " parts" link pages 7 and 14 there is reference to an additional 0.5 L of oil and a new dipstick with a green dot on the pull ring indicating a revised plus 10mm full level.

(As a side note page 8 gives Toyota's recommendation for first start up of engine after rebuild to ensure oil is where it should be. Pretty much as discussed on here a couple of weeks back )

So, a green dot on the dipstick pull ring could be a simple indicator of engine work/ replacement.

I wonder if an extra 0.5L of oil would be a good thing for all of us?
I suggest that perhaps we shouldn't be too worried if we do accidentally overfill by a 0.5 L or so.

@Joesson
I thought it was in the docs above. Its not.

SO for further info and the bit that says DO NOT OVERFILL page 2 CAUTION
more info

[Joesson]

@Ardent -Interesting reading Jason.
Ref " parts" link pages 7 and 14 there is reference to an additional 0.5 L of oil and a new dipstick with a green dot on the pull ring indicating a revised plus 10mm full level.

(As a side note page 8 gives Toyota's recommendation for first start up of engine after rebuild to ensure oil is where it should be. Pretty much as discussed on here a couple of weeks back )

So, a green dot on the dipstick pull ring could be a simple indicator of engine work/ replacement.

I wonder if an extra 0.5L of oil would be a good thing for all of us?
I suggest that perhaps we shouldn't be too worried if we do accidentally overfill by a 0.5 L or so.

@Joesson
I thought it was in the docs above. Its not.

SO for further info and the bit that says DO NOT OVERFILL page 2 CAUTION
more info

Thank you Jason, that's very clear :extra oil in all models listed (EXCEPT MR2) .
So overfilling is NOT the thing to do, but as you and MrT recommend is regular maintenance.
For the avoidance of any doubt I do far too few miles per annum in my 2 but nevertheless change oil and filter annually, exactly as MrT recommends.

[Ardent]

As do I.

[tom256]

History of changes:

https://midshiprunabout.org/mk3/changes-by-year/

[Chriss]

I think many of us will be biased to what we drive,

PFL
Lighter,
Front bumper looks better and a tad more aggressive where as the FL one looks like it wants to be an MX5 with that silly smile.
Rear bumper looks better.
Headlights have black surround so look better than the too much chrome look of the FL ones.
Rear lights are a nicer design as I kind of hate the double circles at the top of the light, it reminds me of Pikachu's cheeks. and are too feminine for me.

FL
Better bracing,
Better looking side vents,
The hole on the top of the seats make them appear more sporty.
6-speed box.

The parts are interchangeable and so it is not a big deal.

[1979scotte]

Looks wise it's easy to mix and match.
I've got FL lights and vents and bracing on my pfl. With the TRD skirts and front lip. For me it's the best look without going for a mental body kit.
Oh and pfl wheels and tyres they're more fun.

[Petrus]

If anything the model ´development´ of the ZZW30 illustrates that the design team had it spot on  from the start.
Apart from minor exterior tweaks and a slight softening of the (over)steering the changes are largely inconsequential.
Nó power tweak whatsoever from 1999 to 2007 is basically telling the complete story.
If still not convinced have a look at the ´development´ of the weight; which other millennium car model only gains 30 kilos in 8 years?!