Adjusting the Handbrake

[Carolyn]

There are quite a few items that can interfere with the performance of the handbrake.  For the adjustment method to work well, all of these things need to be in good order.

The piston can partially seize in the caliper.  While the footbrake will still work (it exerts much more pressure than the handbrake), the handbrake will struggle.  Time for a rebuilt caliper.

The handbrake mechanism within the caliper can seize.  Time for a rebuilt caliper.

The brake sliders (posts that mount the caliper to the carrier) can get sticky or seized.  Lubrication on the sliders usually cures this.

The brake pads can get stuck in their mounting slots in the carrier.  Cleaning up the slots with a square file and cleaning the mounting spring-clips, will cure this.

The brake cables may be stiff to operate, or even seized.  Disconnect at both ends and pour light machine oil down the cable and work the inner back and forth until it slides freely.  This does not always work!  Cables can be stretched or the outer casings can split open allowing wet and road grime in.  In both these cases, it's time to replace the cables.  Do them as a matched pair.

Assuming all is well with your calipers and cables. (Which it often is!!!) Here's how to do the adjustment:

Slacken the cables until they are floppy and exerting no tension on the lever at the caliper end.

Start the car and pump the brake pedal twenty times, slowly and firmly.

Switch the car off and release the pedal.

After hand brake adjustment with the brake pedal, check the levers on the back of the calipers are resting on their stops, if its not against the stop there is a problem with the caliper.

Re-tension the handbrake so that the brake is full on after six clicks of the ratchet.