Mr Poo the MunteR2

Started by AdamR28, August 23, 2020, 11:02

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AdamR28

Mr Poo. A joke name my mate banded about when I said I was looking for a little roadster. His prophecy seems to have come true...

After a fairly brief but intense search, I stumbled upon this little, er, gem!

A very good petrolhead mate of mine lives just a couple of miles from where it was being sold, so he offered to go and have a nosey and check out the usual areas of the car for me. It all checked out OK and I agreed a price with the seller on the phone.

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Upon collection yesterday I found the roof pretty knackered but without leaks, all the mechanicals in good nick, new brakes all round, new tyres. That'll do me I thought. I'm not precious about cars, so as long as they are reliable and drive well I don't mind a bit of rough around the edges. With 128k on the clock, what do you expect.

I popped the frunk to show my partner the comedy storage amount, you know, ensure she knows immediately that she can't pack loads of stuff for weekends away, and it wouldn't click down again. Then I spotted the slam panel was bent. And the underside of the lid was silver. And what was left of the latch (broken spring) was welded to the slam panel  :))

A bit of gaffer tape later and it was ready for the hour journey back up the M6.

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Weirdly it has a 6 speed box (02 plate) and the rear subframe is mint, so I have a feeling there have been some various swapsies back there at some point...

That plus the nearly new radiator, and the fact it drives extremely well, dead straight steering wheel, accelerates and brakes in a perfectly straight line and doesn't wander around when cruising, means perhaps the alignment has been done recently too, maybe as a result of said bump.

Stuff ordered so far:

- Can of tyre weld so I can bin off the spare.

- A bunch of frunk interior panel clips as virtually all of them are missing.

- A tub of HH-66 glue to repair the roof (the seller kindly gave me some spare vinyl he had from a previous repair). As you can probably guess I'm no stranger to the game of repairing vinyl soft tops!

- Two new tyres to get all 4 to match brand and model. The current fronts are new and 185/55s. I'm going to slap them on the rear and have purchased some 175/55s to go on the front. I know this is 'wrong', but at the risk of sounding a bit big headed, you can insert a famous Kimi Raikkonen quote here  ;D

- A set of 4 dome headed push button bonnet pins / clips, so I can bin off the OE frunk lid mechanism. The two spares I may stick in the back lid if I can be bothered.

It could probably do with an oil and filter change so I know where I'm starting from, and I'll check the alignment too, then see where we're at.

So far I'm really, really impressed. This is my 4th mid engined roofless car (previously S2 Elise, Ferrari F430 and McLaren 650S), in addition to half a dozen MX4+1s and another front engined roofless car with the same 42:58% weight distribution, and have gelled with it pretty quickly! Toyota build quality shines through, everything works, driving position is great, all the controls have good ergonomics. Just need to check all the tyre pressures and send it down my local favourite roads to confirm the dynamics now ;)

Thanks to all who have helped so far, including those who have provided the extremely helpful guides and info on the forum. It really is appreciated.

Ardent

#1
def do the oil change.
Set of sparkies and air filter. Job done.
And a maf clean for good measure.

Well played not mentioning the storage bins behind the seats.

AdamR28

#2
 :)) Thanks.

Yeah, plan to get it up on the lift and serviced ASAP.


Just been out for a blast and it drives well. Pleasantly surprised by how much grip there is on China's finest rubber, and how communicative the car is. The whole 'snappy rear end' thing with road tyres and standard suspension doesn't really seem to be a thing, it gives loads of time and warning. Can definitely see how a stiff track setup with an inexperienced driver could lead to tears though!

I did however have an odd moment where the power steering couldn't keep up when applying a fast steering correction, and stiffened up the steering - tempted to remove the lot if I can find a way which will still pass the MOT next year.

The gears are terribly long! Couldn't believe what the speedo read at the top of 3rd. Wish I'd bought smaller tyres now  ;D

As with every car that has ABS, its too intrusive for 'performance' driving, nibbling away when you want more rotational slip from the tyre than it will allow, so I need to find a way to switch that off when necessary. Perhaps splice into a sensor and run a switch to the dash - can anyone confirm that will work?

The roof wouldn't go down as the vinyl has gone so hard and stiff! So looks like I need to find time to pop to Swansea and something to do down there for 3 or 4 hours...

The todo list grows:

- Extra return spring on the throttle body as it lags a little when rolling off the throttle / changing gear.

- Set the pedals up properly. The throttle has a dead spot at the start (loose cable), and its resting position is nowhere near acceptable for heel and toe.

- Lube where the clutch slave pushes the release arm, if I can get to it. Pretty sure that's where the squeak is coming from, anyway...

- Turn up and fit some bushes for the end of the shift cable, too much fore and aft slop at the moment. Action is nice and smooth though and the gearbox feels good.

JB21

Quote from: AdamR28 on August 23, 2020, 21:26:)) Thanks.

Yeah, plan to get it up on the lift and serviced ASAP.


Just been out for a blast and it drives well. Pleasantly surprised by how much grip there is on China's finest rubber, and how communicative the car is. The whole 'snappy rear end' thing with road tyres and standard suspension doesn't really seem to be a thing, it gives loads of time and warning. Can definitely see how a stiff track setup with an inexperienced driver could lead to tears though!

I did however have an odd moment where the power steering couldn't keep up when applying a fast steering correction, and stiffened up the steering - tempted to remove the lot if I can find a way which will still pass the MOT next year.

The gears are terribly long! Couldn't believe what the speedo read at the top of 3rd. Wish I'd bought smaller tyres now  ;D

The roof wouldn't go down as the vinyl has gone so hard and stiff! So looks like I need to find time to pop to Swansea and something to do down there for 3 or 4 hours...

The todo list grows:

- Extra return spring on the throttle body as it lags a little when rolling off the throttle / changing gear.

- Set the pedals up properly. The throttle has a dead spot at the start (loose cable), and its resting position is nowhere near acceptable for heel and toe.

- Lube where the clutch slave pusheds the release arm, if I can get to it. Pretty sure that's where the squeak is coming from, anyway...

- Turn up and fit some bushes for the end of the shift cable, too much fore and aft slop at the moment. Action is nice and smooth though and the gearbox feels good.

I struggle with heel and toe in mine. You finding the accelerator pedal to high?

Ardent


- Lube where the clutch slave pusheds the release arm, if I can get to it. Pretty sure that's where the squeak is coming from, anyway...


It is and you can.

AdamR28

#5
Quote from: JB21 on August 23, 2020, 21:36I struggle with heel and toe in mine. You finding the accelerator pedal to high?

Exactly that yeah. Possible with the side of the foot, but not exactly natural and I can probably only reach because my ankle ligaments are completely wrecked ;D

Likely solution will be to lift the brake pedal a bit using the clevis, bend the throttle pedal downwards and to the left, and maybe even put a small extension on the back of the throttle pedal, like this:


Needs a little nosey in the footwell sometime, but its always sortable somehow!

AdamR28


thetyrant

Sounds like a nice project :D

I really struggle with heal and toe in this car as well, the pedals are just to far apart for my little feet! at some point im going make accel pedal a bit wider as i think that would help for me.
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

AdamR28

I think even Bigfoot would struggle tbh!

Don't rule out making the brake pedal wider instead of the throttle, as an extra plate on top of it will also raise the height. IMO it's the most important pedal as it is safety related and you steer the car with it, so it needs to be the most obvious one down there.

JB21

Quote from: AdamR28 on August 23, 2020, 21:51
Quote from: JB21 on August 23, 2020, 21:36I struggle with heel and toe in mine. You finding the accelerator pedal to high?

Exactly that yeah. Possible with the side of the foot, but not exactly natural and I can probably only reach because my ankle ligaments are completely wrecked ;D

Likely solution will be to lift the brake pedal a bit using the clevis, bend the throttle pedal downwards and to the left, and maybe even put a small extension on the back of the throttle pedal, like this:


Needs a little nosey in the footwell sometime, but its always sortable somehow!

Nice! Let me know once you have a fix :-)

Carolyn

Here's my pedal attachment.  Had it on for years.  Works a treat.  Sorry for the fuzzy pics
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Topdownman

Carolyn, I think I have seen that 2nd one hovering over area 51.....
"Racing" tax disc holder (binned), Poundland air freshener, (ran out), Annoying cylinder deficiency,  (sorted),
Winner of the Numb bum award 2017
Readers Ride

06 not V6 readers ride

AdamR28

Bought all the service bits at lunchtime today and made a quick start.

MAF looked like it had been the subject of a Kevin McCallister attack from a Home Alone film, and the air filter perhaps used to dig spuds out of the ground.

Spotted a reasonable leak from the engine / gearbox somewhere around the CV joint on the drivers side, another leak up front which can only be power steering fluid, a few more dents in the bodywork, and that the rear end is pointing a few degrees (yes, degrees, not minutes!) to the left. I have no idea how it drives in a straight line  :))

It's a good job I enjoy messing with this stuff!

AdamR28

New 6PK1395 aux belt fitted as well, nice easy job and well worth doing as the old one looks like it might be the original! The tensioner pulley bearing is pretty shagged - need to investigate fitting new bearings to it, or try to get hold of a new pulley.

thetyrant

Is certainly going to keep you busy by the sounds of it!  good work, keep it up :D
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

Jamtastic

Quote from: AdamR28 on August 24, 2020, 15:26Bought all the service bits at lunchtime today and made a quick start.

MAF looked like it had been the subject of a Kevin McCallister attack from a Home Alone film, and the air filter perhaps used to dig spuds out of the ground.

Spotted a reasonable leak from the engine / gearbox somewhere around the CV joint on the drivers side, another leak up front which can only be power steering fluid, a few more dents in the bodywork, and that the rear end is pointing a few degrees (yes, degrees, not minutes!) to the left. I have no idea how it drives in a straight line  :))

It's a good job I enjoy messing with this stuff!

Hi Adam the chain tensioner (lozenge with two nuts) sits above the drivers CV joint and are well known for leaking. Could be a good starting point. There is plenty of info on here about them. If I remember you need a slightly chunkier O-Ring than stock. The very knowledgable @Carolyn has a post about it.

Carolyn

Quote from: Jamtastic on August 24, 2020, 17:29
Quote from: AdamR28 on August 24, 2020, 15:26Bought all the service bits at lunchtime today and made a quick start.

MAF looked like it had been the subject of a Kevin McCallister attack from a Home Alone film, and the air filter perhaps used to dig spuds out of the ground.

Spotted a reasonable leak from the engine / gearbox somewhere around the CV joint on the drivers side, another leak up front which can only be power steering fluid, a few more dents in the bodywork, and that the rear end is pointing a few degrees (yes, degrees, not minutes!) to the left. I have no idea how it drives in a straight line  :))

It's a good job I enjoy messing with this stuff!

Hi Adam the chain tensioner (lozenge with two nuts) sits above the drivers CV joint and are well known for leaking. Could be a good starting point. There is plenty of info on here about them. If I remember you need a slightly chunkier O-Ring than stock. The very knowledgable @Carolyn has a post about it.
Adam: PM me your address and I'll send an O ring.  (FOC)
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

AdamR28

Great info @Jamtastic , thank you. I'll have a look tomorrow!

Decided to to the plugs after work, good job as they look like they went down with the Titanic.

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Spark plug leads and coil loom plugs fitted with a generous smear / dollop of dielectric silicone paste. This stuff is great at keeping moisture out, so ideal given the MR2s engine bay open-ness, and also fills in the air gap around the electrical connection to give a more accurate spark.

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Loving the tool tray handily placed above the back box, and the screwdriver holders drilled in various areas of the chassis  ;D

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Had a quick nosey at the alignment. Found a receipt in the paperwork that came with the car for a full alignment fairly recently. I didn't clock the name in the receipt, but might have been Stevie Wonder?  8)

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Readying myself for a bunch of other gremlins...


Edit: Posted at the same time as Carolyn... that is extremely kind, thank you! PM incoming...

Ardent

@AdamR28
I know you are already on the case, but have to a say, a properly sorted geo on these cars makes a world of difference.

AdamR28

#19
Absolutely, you preaching to the converted (I have a small / second hobby business which specialises in lightweight RWD sports car alignment) - can't wait to get it set up properly!


Have been researching a few bits this morning:

1. Front upper strut brace (there's a fair bit of scuttle shake going on)
2. Power steering removal (need to check with my local MOT garage if / how that can be made 'legal'...)
3. The chain tensioner O ring leak
4. Exhausts.


1. I'll DIY. The whole front of the car is out of line from that bump, so the frunk plastics don't fit properly any more. Plus, I'll be binning off the spare wheel in favour of an 'emergency' can, so I will have reasonable freedom to do what I want in this area. I figure 'something' will be a lot better than 'nothing' so I'm not going to go to town with a lavish solution, just a bit of tube (probably with pressed ends to match the OE rear brace) to support the strut tops a bit.

2. This looks straightforward having done the same job before on MX5s. I will test it out first with the 'roll along, clutch in, key out, start car again, look for PAS warning light' method, but I haven't found a sporty car I don't prefer with the PAS removed so I am hopeful.

3. Appears dead easy so will sort that when doing the oil change. Again big thanks to Carolyn for the O ring! What a great club - only hope I can help to repay these sorts of favours in future.

4. The car doesn't do anything at all for my aurally, so this needs addressing. I'm going to bang a budget de-cat manifold on there (fully expecting it to be total crap, so I will give it a good look over before fitment and Mr Welder and Mr Die Grinder will attack it if necessary), leave the mid section and standard cat in place, then build a simple cat back system with three 90 degree bends, a bit of straight pipe and an oval box, exiting under the bumper on the right, a bit like the Rogue Motorsport one: https://www.facebook.com/roguemotorsport/posts/new-product-mr2-roadster-performance-exhaust-silencer-440vatmr2-roadster-perform/1337347316326628/. I figure the weight saving can't be ignored too, the standard box looks massive!


I had the roof down yesterday and it has ripped considerably more while doing so, need to find an excuse to get down to Jack Smiths before the worst of the weather closes in! Pembrokeshire coast is lovely, so perhaps a weekend away is on the cards. The drive down all the way through Wales should be great too. Wonder if  Ican sneak in a cheeky Pembrey or Llandow track day too...

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More parts on the way: Lambda sensor socket (previously just used a 22mm spanner but I might as well have the proper tool), new manifold, new aux belt tensioner pulley.


I usually don't do this as the result is often a bit scary, but here goes... Spends to date:

- Service parts (air filter, set of NGK plugs, 5L full syn 5w40 oil, filter, 2L full syn GL4 75w90 gearbox oil, spray can of electrical contact cleaner for the MAF): £83 (lucky enough to have a trade account with the local car spares place)
- Aux belt (6PK1395): £22
- 2x WhoFlungDung Ditchfinder Pros in the 'wrong' size: £64
- A tensioner pulley and a manifold that's probably total crap: £147

Total so far: £316

shnazzle

I'm loving this thread. 
I mean this in a positive way; that car is a clip and it's great to see it be restored. I did the same with my old pre-fl which was in a similar state and it was rather nice when I was done
...neutiquam erro.

Topdownman

Re the swansea roof.

He has a waiting list which can be months long so best to ring him and have a chat to see how he is fixed and get on the list if needed.
"Racing" tax disc holder (binned), Poundland air freshener, (ran out), Annoying cylinder deficiency,  (sorted),
Winner of the Numb bum award 2017
Readers Ride

06 not V6 readers ride

Ardent

That reminds of past threads

How much spent on vs actually bought for.

Moving on.

AdamR28

#23
Haha, yes, it's even worse than I expected. A little disappointed in both myself and the seller - I bought the car unseen and the chap seemed genuine. Sadly there are a number of issues and 'clues' the car hasn't really been cared for, and I think the MOT is dodgy. But, it was my choice to buy it and I like a project, so lets crack on!

I have a bunch of photos and a larger write-up to do sometime soon, but for now...

- Idler pulley for aux belt: £31
- Stainless backbox (6x16", weld on): £45

Total so far: £392


I saw on Mr Smith's Facebook page (or somewhere like that) that his next availability is mid November at the moment. Crackers. May have to look at a more local but more expensive option...

Also, I am faced with the following with regards to trying to remove the OE heatshield in order to swap the manifold:

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My thoughts are to grind (flap wheel) the 'bolt heads' (very much a loose term now) off, then chop the heatshield into a few pieces and rip it away, hopefully enough so I can get to the head / manifold bolts. Any other ideas appreciated though!

thetyrant

Yep you gone have to cut that one off!
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D