Mid Night Car Special - Caution Wake Turbulence

[Mariorcross]

Hi after working with her today as ive already started to feel attached. I feel like I've fostered a dog promising I'll rehome it but end up adopting 😍

Regarding LSDs they cost around £600 So bit expensive for something that's free for UK version.

I wouldn't want to sell the box as being an MR-S they are rarer so would prefer to keep it all original. In fact one thing that is missing is the original Toyota stereo so I need to keep an eye out for one.

[1979scotte]

Hi after working with her today as ive already started to feel attached. I feel like I've fostered a dog promising I'll rehome it but end up adopting 😍

Regarding LSDs they cost around £600 So bit expensive for something that's free for UK version.

I wouldn't want to sell the box as being an MR-S they are rarer so would prefer to keep it all original. In fact one thing that is missing is the original Toyota stereo so I need to keep an eye out for one.

They weren't standard in Japan.
Somebody is giving away 2 for free on here somewhere.

[Mariorcross]

@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.

[Joesson]

@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.

@nutjack posted this in the Audio section:

https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=843310

[nutjack]

@1979scotte really? Any idea who or when it was as I would love to install it and don't expect it to be free as I'm happy to pay just not silly money.

@nutjack posted this in the Audio section:

https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?msg=843310

if it,s one of the stereo,s they are free to collect wf8 1rt

[Mariorcross]

@nutjack Hi I've just bought a MR-S with the stereo missing and would like to have the stereo on top as it looks like a standard Toyota one. As you are 4.5 hours away could you go to the trouble of posting and I would PayPal or bank transfer you costs? Thank you

[Mariorcross]

So couldnt stay away and spent another day working on the car writing a list of jobs to do. Managed to get the silencer off after much trouble. All bolts are super difficult to remove and snapped one of those notorious "3 amigos". Thank God the previous custodian had the foresight to put copper anti-seize on the lambda sensors so they were no trouble to remove. Going back tomorrow to get the precat and cat off, hopefully.

Now I'm weighing up to sell my current exhaust system (perfectly serviceable) and find a used full stainless steel system (de-precat header, sports cat & silencer). So may I ask would anyone know where I could source a cheap used one please.

Also while under the car I noticed the side cover flywheel housing was missing exposing part of the flywheel to the elements. It has surface rust. As I'm going to change the clutch I'm now thinking do I need to change the flywheel? I know without looking at it, it's hard to know but with others experiences what do you think?

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[Bossworld]

I think it's a plastic cover that tends to go walkies

[Mariorcross]

Yes, I've read an American company, DDPR, makes a metal one that's bolted on using the two bolts in the housing so I may try fabricating one out of aluminium?

[Mariorcross]

So another day tinkering with my "temporary" beauty. Managed to get the cat off and all the nuts off the header. Snapped one of the 3 amigos so going to have to drill the bolt out 😔
Now I need to decide do I drill out the bolt while the header is on the car or undo the 4 supporting bolts which are difficult to access? I'll try the former but if too troublesome I'll have to take the header off.
So silly me rather than getting a bore scope into the lambda sensor hole assuming there was a precat you'll see in the photo the headers already been gutted. Anyway after inspecting the full exhaust system it's in good condition so I'll reuse it until I find a cheap used full SS system.
The only consellation is I still needed to remove the exhaust so when the engine is released from it's left engine mount and dropped 15 degrees no pressure is put on the cat flexi-pipe when I'm changing the clutch.
The timing chain pretensioner looks rusty but no oil leaks. I'll still change it to just refresh it.
The rear subframe looks in really good condition with very minimal rust. Ill definitely rust proof it but doesnt look like a job that needs doing yet.
The rear sway bar is pretty rusty but it'll do for now until I get a Cusco upgrade. Don't want to take too many jobs on as I want her ready for the sunny days due in April and drive her. Have to balance love and attention with driving.
About to order an engine service kit and my clutch/gearbox oil tonight.
Getting attached to my little baby as every day passes.

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[1979scotte]

Remember the subframe needs protection on the inside. That is where it starts to corrode .

[Mariorcross]

@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.

[1979scotte]

@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.

@Carolyn says you need to seal it at the top to stop the moisture getting in.
If you can stop the waxoyl getting out should work fine. Have had to seep out once it was warmed by the exhaust on a turbo car.

[Carolyn]

This is how I do them.

Firstly though: The reason they rust from the inside and right over where the exhaust passes underneath, is that's where the salt and corrosive stuff sits, after it gets in through the holes at the four top corners.  The heat of the exhaust speeds up the electrolytic corrosion.

So:

I seal up the corners (I use the Dirko grey engine sealant 'cos I always have some and it's really tough) to keep the wet and muck out.  No moisture and no fresh oxygen = no rust.

Then I clean around the little drain holes that you'll find under the control arm mounts, and tape them shut..  They are little - but they are there.  This stops any corrosion treatment running straight back out!

Then I pop out one of the rubber plugs on the top of the cross-member and pour in a liquid treatment then, using a little washing-up liquid as a lube, I put the plug back..  I actually like Waxoyl for this, 'cos it will spread itself around as the car is driven and give and even coating.

[Joesson]

@1979scotte Yes thanks. I'm still open how to do this. Not a fan of waxoyl as not sure it's permanent enough. I'll have to read more on this subject to figure a nice solution.

Have a look at Bilt Hamber products.
https://www.bilthamber.com/

[Mariorcross]

Sounds good. Ok I'll keep that process in mind when I take on that job as I want to try and preserve it. I've also got a sand blasting cabinet so there are lots of parts that need treatment and then can be protected with stone chip.
Not for a job until next winter though as it's in pretty good condition and I really just want to drive her for now.

[Mariorcross]

Some goodies arrived today. Will be collecting my Castrol Fully synthetic oil end of week.
Never heard of MPM gearbox oil but after a bit of reading looks like good stuff. I like spoiling my beauty.

[Chilli Girl]

Your beauty certainly has landed on its feet thanks to you.

[Mariorcross]

@Chilli Girl I always have loved mechanical things and driving and I've learnt look after my beauty and she'll look after me. I really want to drive her so I want to make sure she's in good condition. Anyway it's only the start. I've got lot more jobs to do over the next few years on her (if I keep her 😆)

[Mariorcross]

Hi it's been a while since I've posted. Before today I was considering keeping this MR2 as a stop gap until I found my ideal MR2 but after what my mechanic said I think I've decided to keep this car but look for a second MR2 as id like to keep this one standard and id like to find one to modify.

So rather than changing the clutch myself I bit the bullet and paid a mechanic so it can be completed in a day rather than taking too long as I'm really keen to drive it. I learnt a lot by watching him and he gave a lot of good learning points.

So the mechanic did say the car has been looked after in the past as bushes have been replaced recently, brake system completely replaced, absolutely no oil leaks from the engine, a complete service was conducted as air filter and oil filter was brand new and oil was still golden, no rot, very little surface rust, all bolts copper greased and really he was surprised how easy everything came apart. He did say I found a good deal and if anything did come up it shouldn't be major problem and can be fixed but as an underlying car it's a good find so I'm really happy and have decided to keep her.

So as you can see from the pictures he changed to a LUK clutch, pressure plate and thrust bearing. He copper greased everything and tightened all nuts to a wet torque spec. He used Preparation M, which is £200 per 100ml high temperature, high pressure, long maintenance grease for the thrust bearing. Anyway I'm very happy with his job.

So all I need to do is buy some fresh bolts and nuts for the exhaust system, re service the car so everything's fresh and wait for the next dry day that's out of lockdown. I really can't wait for my first sunny spring drive.

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[Mariorcross]

More photos

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[Ardent]

These cars might be rare, but they are not complicated or sophisticated.
 
A local, trusted, solid knowledgeable mechanic is worth knowing and paying for.

LUK. loving mine.

[Mariorcross]

Oil arrived ready for the next few services 😆

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[Mariorcross]

Just received my Aerospace Protectant 303 today which I'll work into my soft top after cleaning my little baby.

Just finished a full service but I needed to Dremel cut some divets into the oil dip stick so it was easier to read the oil levels.

I've spent a good few hours trying to extract one of the 3 amigos that snapped. I started by putting some serious heat with a gas burner until the header was glowing red. Then I tried drilling it out with a reverse drill bit and extractor no joy as the tread was rusted. The final solution which finally worked was to use an Amecoil.

So half the job has been done and I hope to get the exhaust and bumper back on tomorrow. Then a nice polish, insure, tax and go for a shake down. Not long now.

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[Chilli Girl]

The 303 is excellent stuff, used on both my previous 2's