Black '03 Projects

Started by Trebordoody, August 1, 2021, 12:15

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

shnazzle

Quote from: Trebordoody on March 15, 2022, 22:46Thanks for the advice shnazzle!

The handbrake is "near the end of travel" according to another MOT advisory, so I was just going to adjust the cable nut under the centre console like some others have.

However, sounds like your method also adjusts things. Will the handbrake go back to where it was before (near end of travel) or will it correct things and go back to a few clicks?

I guess I'll find out either way!!  ;)
Depends on whether the person that did your brakes last time set them properly. If not, it'll tighten it up. If thye did, then sadly there is another issue. Either on the caliper side or cable.
The adjustment in the center console is the final step of adjustment. Last resort kind of thing. But, if the cable is stretched then it's definitely the way forward
...neutiquam erro.

Trebordoody

Quote from: shnazzle on March 15, 2022, 22:50Depends on whether the person that did your brakes last time set them properly. If not, it'll tighten it up. If thye did, then sadly there is another issue. Either on the caliper side or cable.
The adjustment in the center console is the final step of adjustment. Last resort kind of thing. But, if the cable is stretched then it's definitely the way forward

OK thanks! I guess I'll find out soon enough!!

Trebordoody

Update time as its been a while...!

Finally got the brakes sorted out - I think!
First of all I figured out that the caliper had seized on the rear left, so got a replacement from MR2Ben, painted it up to match the others and it seems to have helped.

However, I fought with the Eezibleed kit on the brake reservoir!! >:(
This is the one that uses the pressure from the spare tyre to help you do the bleed on your own. The caps they provide as standard don't fit the '2, and the universal adapter you can buy separately just doesn't form a good enough seal on the reservoir, so brake fluid started p*ing out everywhere!!  :-[
I asked my daughter to help and reverted to the old-fashioned bleed method and got there in the end. 

However, the handbrake travel was still way too much (10+ clicks) despite the adjustment guidance, so after checking the cables, I decided to take the last resort and adjust the cable. Now its a few clicks and seems to be holding the car just fine!

My first attempt at brake changes (pads and disks all round, and now a caliper change) and I'm finally there and still alive after a few drives! Its been nerve-wracking, but this forum and its guidance are inspiring!

MOT is booked for a couple of weeks so my fingers are crossed!!! I'm hoping there'll just be an advisory for the front suspension boots degrading and that's it!

Trebordoody

#28
I should add, that in-between all this, I did manage to take the car on its first weekend away!

We stayed in Hungerford so not far, but nice to drive over the back roads through Berkshire.
Finally use the "Midship Runabout" luggage set we bought before Christmas (when it was on offer!). The thinking is that if it fits in the bags, it will fit in the car! And it turned out to be true! :)

One issue I'm having at the moment is getting the missus and daughters to travel with the roof down (hair etc)!! I get it, but I've already warned my better half that we can't pull up at the Shinding South event with the roof up - we probably won't be allowed in!! We'll see how it goes...  ;D



Topdownman

Good work with the brakes.

Isnt the smaller 3rd bag supposed to go in the middle?

If your passengers are struggling with their hair, there is always the Bjorn Borg approach...
"Racing" tax disc holder (binned), Poundland air freshener, (ran out), Annoying cylinder deficiency,  (sorted),
Winner of the Numb bum award 2017
Readers Ride

06 not V6 readers ride

Trebordoody

Quote from: Topdownman on May  7, 2022, 11:16Good work with the brakes.

Isnt the smaller 3rd bag supposed to go in the middle?

If your passengers are struggling with their hair, there is always the Bjorn Borg approach...

Yeah, the bags in the pic are actually empty and moved around so I could get the jack out. But I don't think it made much difference which way the bags went in.

And I suggested Kathryn Hepburn headscarves, but they're all having none of it!!  ;D  ;D

Trebordoody

#31
Decided to take a quick look at the rear light cluster as it had an MOT advisory about condensation.

Following the simple guide put together by @Fatbloater, I was able to strip it down quite easily, but did break a tab (as seems expected!)

While there, I noticed the paint had lifted (see pic) - I guess as a result of moisture ingress - so what was supposed to be a quick job, ended up with a trip to Halfords for some silver paint! Couple of hours later and a couple of paint coats after priming, and I think that's another job off the MOT to-do list!



Trebordoody

This week decided to change the worn front Bridgestone tyres to match the rears, so now have Falken Ziex all round. I think it's improved the handling slightly, but still feels a little vague sometimes and I'm guessing down to worn bushes and suspension components. The tyre pressures are fine, so I'm hoping a suspension overhaul later this year will help!

Also managed to use some metal polish and Autoglym vinyl and rubber care to clean up all the rubber window seals.
I forgot to take pics but they look waaay better!!!  :D

I would never have thought to use metal polish, but more good advice found on the forum!

Trebordoody

Thanks to meeting the MR2 guru @Carolyn at ShinDing South (thanks again Carolyn!), my next jobs are replacing the o-ring on the chain tensioner to stop a small oil leak there, and while I'm in that part of the engine bay, put a new aux belt in.

I know if I follow the instructions in each How To properly and methodically I should be fine, but I have to admit, I'm pretty terrified as a newbie mechanic!!

Won't learn if I don't try...!!! :-\

J88TEO

Quote from: Trebordoody on June  6, 2022, 22:57Won't learn if I don't try...!!! :-\
A few swear words and you will get the hand of it. Quite therapeutic when you dig in more... ;D

Joesson

@Trebordoody

You may or may not be aware and I'm pretty sure @Carolyn will have mentioned it, but others have been caught out, there are two belt sizes for our cars, one for those Without Air Con and another for those With Air Con.
I'm also sure C will have mentioned a sketch, or these days I suppose a foto of the belt in situ to remind you of the route when reinstalling. Google Maps won't help with that.

Trebordoody

Thanks @Joesson, Carolyn did indeed mention both belt types (I have a non-AC one on the way) and taking a route photo, so fingers crossed I won't blow anything up!  :o

Joesson

Quote from: Trebordoody on June  7, 2022, 09:36Thanks @Joesson, Carolyn did indeed mention both belt types (I have a non-AC one on the way) and taking a route photo, so fingers crossed I won't blow anything up!  :o

I believe I am correct in saying that as this is an auxiliary belt, driven by  a pulley on the end of the crank shaft, it drives by friction of the belt the alternator, air con pump if fitted, and the water pump.
This means that there is nothing to "blow up", unlike a toothed cam belt that if incorrectly fitted can cause some damage!

Trebordoody

#38
Still not able to find time to change the aux belt, but did manage a 5-minute upgrade on the HVAC controls this week (seeing as pretty much everyone else I saw at Shinding South had replaced the old knobs!)

"X3 FOR TOYOTA YARIS 1998-2005 VITZ ECHO SWITCH KNOB A/C HEATER BUTTON DIALS HEAT" on eBay for less than a tenner.

Vast improvement to the looks and very happy with them!



Trebordoody

Finally got another day to work on the '2. I wish I had more time...!

This weekend I managed to change the aux belt using the great How To from @shnazzle (thank you!). After a lot of faffing around and scratching my arm to pieces on the bodywork, I found that doing the top/forward- most pulley last was easiest, but the instructions are great!  ;)

Next was finally installing the chain tensioner o-ring that I got from @Carolyn at the Oxford meet. Followed another great How To and it went really. I only managed to rip my thumbnail off slightly trying to compress the oily tensioner, but the instructions are great! Thanks Carolyn!  ;)

I found I have a partially seized front caliper (slighting binding was an MOT advisory) so I checked it and struggled to push the piston back in. So I think I need a set of refurbs soon. I've already done the back one that had completely seized so I'm wondering whether just to replace all the rest at the same time and be done with them. No injuries this time!

Finally, I gave my headlights another sand and polish. I think the UV clear coat I used last time wasn't up to the job, so have tried the 3M wipes this time. Let's see how it goes!

And of course, took it for a fantastic blast through the sunny countryside to make sure everything was OK :)

Still didn't get around to upgrading the stereo and speakers for which I've had replacements lying in the garage for nearly a year now! But best to focus on the mechanical stuff that needs doing first.

In the meantime, I got some new H7 Nightbreaker headlight bulbs and an Autoglym roof cleaner kit, so they will hopefully get done at the weekend along with a full DA polish - will be fun to try out machine polishing for the first time!!

Loving this car!! ;D ;D ;D


Trebordoody

Quote from: Joesson on June  7, 2022, 19:39I believe I am correct in saying that as this is an auxiliary belt, driven by  a pulley on the end of the crank shaft, it drives by friction of the belt the alternator, air con pump if fitted, and the water pump.
This means that there is nothing to "blow up", unlike a toothed cam belt that if incorrectly fitted can cause some damage!

And it didn't blow up @Joesson;)

Joesson

Quote from: Trebordoody on August  8, 2022, 10:02And it didn't blow up @Joesson;)

And I 'm very pleased to hear (or not hear) that.
I note you've replaced your rear brake calipers and are now pondering what to do with the fronts.
Having recently worked on my brakes , (slightly binding MOT advisory) and suspension I can say that my rears were quite well stuck and with all the parts and tools needed to refurb them I also opted for new.
The fronts were less stuck but did take some time and effort to clean up, repaint and fit new pistons and seals. There was a cost saving but only because I had the brake cleaner (I did buy a bottle of methylated spirit to give the components an initial clean) zinc and high temp silver paints for painting in stock and, importantly, I didn't charge myself for my labour!
Remember though you will have the OE pad carriers that would look out of place with new calipers unless you clean and paint them.
I also took the opportunity to replace the flexible hoses.
Enjoy.



thetyrant

Quote from: Trebordoody on August  8, 2022, 09:59I found I have a partially seized front caliper (slighting binding was an MOT advisory) so I checked it and struggled to push the piston back in. So I think I need a set of refurbs soon. I've already done the back one that had completely seized so I'm wondering whether just to replace all the rest at the same time and be done with them. No injuries this time!

Ive got a pair of good recent refurbed front calipers in my garage somewhere, they were refurbed for the guy i got them off but he never used them, i put one on for a quick test for couple of miles as suspected one of mine wasnt working correctly, turned out it was fine and another issue so took the refurbed one back off for when it was really needed, never happened and car has been gone awhile now so if your interested i will dig them out and think on a price, but will be sensible :D 
Ex-2005 roadster  owner, i will be back :D

Trebordoody

Quote from: Joesson on August  8, 2022, 13:43And I 'm very pleased to hear (or not hear) that.
I note you've replaced your rear brake calipers and are now pondering what to do with the fronts.
Having recently worked on my brakes , (slightly binding MOT advisory) and suspension I can say that my rears were quite well stuck and with all the parts and tools needed to refurb them I also opted for new.
The fronts were less stuck but did take some time and effort to clean up, repaint and fit new pistons and seals. There was a cost saving but only because I had the brake cleaner (I did buy a bottle of methylated spirit to give the components an initial clean) zinc and high temp silver paints for painting in stock and, importantly, I didn't charge myself for my labour!
Remember though you will have the OE pad carriers that would look out of place with new calipers unless you clean and paint them.
I also took the opportunity to replace the flexible hoses.
Enjoy.



Thanks @Joesson, I might give this a go. I already cleaned and painted the calipers a while back and the piston on this one was a little stiff when I changed the pads and discs, but its obviously got worse over the last few months.
I have brake cleaner too, and I see a replacement piston and seals are available if needed and only ~£35, but I seem to recall that you needed some specific tools to remove the pistons etc - is that not the case? Or is that only for the rears. I can't seem to find a good "How To" on the forum for piston refurbs...!

Trebordoody

Quote from: thetyrant on August  8, 2022, 14:07Ive got a pair of good recent refurbed front calipers in my garage somewhere, they were refurbed for the guy i got them off but he never used them, i put one on for a quick test for couple of miles as suspected one of mine wasnt working correctly, turned out it was fine and another issue so took the refurbed one back off for when it was really needed, never happened and car has been gone awhile now so if your interested i will dig them out and think on a price, but will be sensible :D

Thanks for the offer @thetyrant, much appreciated. I still may well take you up on this depending on how easy (or not) it is to do a piston rebuild as @Joesson suggests, so I'll PM you to get the price if needed ;)

Joesson

Quote from: Trebordoody on August 10, 2022, 17:38Thanks @Joesson, I might give this a go. I already cleaned and painted the calipers a while back and the piston on this one was a little stiff when I changed the pads and discs, but its obviously got worse over the last few months.
I have brake cleaner too, and I see a replacement piston and seals are available if needed and only ~£35, but I seem to recall that you needed some specific tools to remove the pistons etc - is that not the case? Or is that only for the rears. I can't seem to find a good "How To" on the forum for piston refurbs...!

Special tools are only needed for the rear calipers.
You will find that that either the brake bleed or the banjo nut holes are in line with the back of the piston and I encouraged mine out with a suitably sized rod and perhaps a light tap with a hammer.
If the piston is to be replaced there is no problem with any likely damage but both of mine came out easy enough. The rear pistons were a different story.
If I ever needed to do the job again I would remove the pistons with the caliper in situ by removing the pads and pushing the piston out with the brake pedal. Clamp off that hose and move on to the next caliper.
I read and watched several How To's on line, and they suggested using compressed air, no compressor. A foot pump, I tried an electric pump but couldn't get a good enough seal.
The How To's are OK to show you how to fit the seals.
Make sure the inner square section seal is not twisted wrong way around. The big cup seal I put into the piston groove and then partially insert the piston and ease the seal into the groove in the caliper. Sounds easy enough but the difficulty increases marginally because you have lubricated it  all with special grease.
While I replaced drum brake cylinder seals many years ago and in more recent years some largish industrial hydraulic cylinder seals, I have never worked  on brake calipers before.
But, basic engineering principals apply and once you've watched a couple of you tube videos and done the first caliper you will be as good as the next man, well good enough for sure.

Trebordoody

Quote from: Joesson on August 10, 2022, 20:03Special tools are only needed for the rear calipers...

OK thanks @Joesson , you've inspired me! Just ordered replacement piston and rings etc from Brake Parts so I'll give it a go! Won't learn if I don't try!! Appreciate the pointers and hope its as straight forward as you describe.

Trebordoody

So, I received the caliper piston kit and intend to do that next when I next get a break, but in the meantime I finally got around to installing the new headunit and speakers (which I've had for about a year, but other priority jobs needed to get done)

I managed to get a JVC KD-X272DBT mechless headunit for <£100 on Amazon, and chose it because it was BT handsfree and DAB...and cheap!

For the speakers I ordered the Pioneer TS-A1600C as it had good reviews and also came with the adapter rings to fit the woofers to the MR2 doors! Saved butchering the existing speaker mounts with a Dremel that many seem to have done!

I also got some Kilmat sound deadening - there was some already on the door it turned out, but only a few patches so now it's got better coverage.



Everything's in but still some work to do as the right woofer isn't connected up properly yet and I ran out of time, but the headunit works fine and I think a big improvement on the Fisher Price!



Once I get all this done, I'll add the under-dash sub I've got (InPhase USW10) as a future job!
But I think the brake caliper rebuild is the next step!