Now for the ol' razzle Shnazzle

Started by MrChris, March 20, 2022, 19:52

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MrChris

Welcome to my reader's ride thread.

Having had a silver 2 a few years back - and having been through a few other cars since - the 2 is the car I come back to now for a fun/track car. Also a bonus: because of my antics buying cars over the years, my long-suffering wife did not bat an eyelid when I mentioned I would be buying a car I'd never seen off "a guy I met on an internet forum".

Said "internet guy" is of course @shnazzle who has been a delight throughout and a top bloke at that. I am very grateful to him. I'm also very pleased to be in a sable 2. I had of course read his reader's ride thread detailing all of his ups and downs with it, in particular his tuning adventures - what could go wrong! :))

So here it is, offloaded by the Shiply driver at just after midnight.
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I gave it a wash... scrubs up decently enough!
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I compiled a list of things I need to be getting on with (for now):
Immediate
  • Check tyres hold pressure - sort/replace if necessary.
  • Treat rusty bits.
  • Check handbrake and free/sort out.
  • Run Cataclean through the car and get it through MOT.

Soon
  • If fail MOT: sort it out.
  • Full service + belts.
  • Chain tensioner o-ring if needed.
  • Check if pre-cats are gutted and if not: gut them.
  • Refit centre brace.
  • Track day.
  • Replace weird metal thingy that's rusted through (in the engine bay, it's definitely not structural though).
  • Sort out headlight with bad condensation.

Later
  • New brake dust covers.
  • New ARBs.
  • See to heated seat button.
  • Check aircon/regas it.
  • Wheel refurb.
  • Figure out what some other bits do (pictured below).

What is this?
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I think this is an oil breather...?
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shnazzle

Quote from: MrChris on March 20, 2022, 19:52Welcome to my reader's ride thread.

Having had a silver 2 a few years back - and having been through a few other cars since - the 2 is the car I come back to now for a fun/track car. Also a bonus: because of my antics buying cars over the years, my long-suffering wife did not bat an eyelid when I mentioned I would be buying a car I'd never seen off "a guy I met on an internet forum".

Said "internet guy" is of course @shnazzle who has been a delight throughout and a top bloke at that. I am very grateful to him. I'm also very pleased to be in a sable 2. I had of course read his reader's ride thread detailing all of his ups and downs with it, in particular his tuning adventures - what could go wrong! :))

So here it is, offloaded by the Shiply driver at just after midnight.
You cannot view this attachment.

I gave it a wash... scrubs up decently enough!
You cannot view this attachment.

I compiled a list of things I need to be getting on with (for now):
Immediate
  • Check tyres hold pressure - sort/replace if necessary.
  • Treat rusty bits.
  • Check handbrake and free/sort out.
  • Run Cataclean through the car and get it through MOT.

Soon
  • If fail MOT: sort it out.
  • Full service + belts.
  • Chain tensioner o-ring if needed.
  • Check if pre-cats are gutted and if not: gut them.
  • Refit centre brace.
  • Track day.
  • Replace weird metal thingy that's rusted through (in the engine bay, it's definitely not structural though).
  • Sort out headlight with bad condensation.

Later
  • New brake dust covers.
  • New ARBs.
  • See to heated seat button.
  • Check aircon/regas it.
  • Wheel refurb.
  • Figure out what some other bits do (pictured below).

What is this?
You cannot view this attachment.

I think this is an oil breather...?
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Yay! 
It does clean up nice :)

I'll answer a few questions... 
- No pre-cats in there. It arrived with me gutted courtesy of @J88TEO.
- aux belt isn't that old. It was replaced maybe 15k miles ago? Used a quality Gates belt. 
- tensioner o-ring is one of Carolyn's viton rings. Should be good. Unless you've spotted a leak
- the odd thing; I mentioned this a while back, but in your defense, it was a while back... My bad. In the footwell you ll have found the original "carbon cannister". It takes fuel vapour from the fuel tank and stops the tank from pressuring. This vapour is then fed through the cannisyer and into that blue valve.
When I replaced the alternator (about a few hundred miles ago), I had to take that cannister and mount out, and it snapped a bolt. Instead of drilling the bolt out, I just added those filters you see. The right side goes into a metal filter which has carbon in it. Hence it doesn't smell. Then to the black motorbike filter.
On the valve side, I just added a cheap fuel filter to stop crap being sucked into the intake. 
- headlight condensation is just from standing/not being used. Drive around with the lights on and it'll go. Or remove the rear boot and get a hair dryer in.
- I've actually got two little heated seat buttons I was going to replace the stock ones with because I couldn't find a replacement for the life of me. I'll send them over in the package that's due.
- Center brace on the way. Note; can you please keep the little rails that has the clips on it? I need that back :)

...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Quote from: shnazzle on March 20, 2022, 20:09Yay!
It does clean up nice :)

I'll answer a few questions...

Brilliant thanks! Although this goes to show what a top bloke you are: you have told me a couple of those things and... yes it was a while a go but I should have remembered!

I've crossed out some of the things on my list now. I forgot to add "install a roll bar" but I'm sure I'll get around to it eventually.

I'll keep hold of the rails with clips on and send it in the post.

Working this week so minimal progress until next weekend now.  :(

MrChris

Best laid plans and all that...

I've got the 2 up on axle stands earlier and took the wheels off to get a good look around. I adjusted the handbrake and it seems okay however... I've now decided to do the following prior to the MOT:

  • New subframe - there's a hole in it  :'(
  • ARBs front and back with new drop links.
  • Treat / get new arms (various).
  • Put baffled sump on as existing one is leaking.
  • Refurbish calipers - at least 2 at the back, one of them is sticking.
  • New front A-arms.
  • Refurb springs... not sure if this is possible.
  • Check hard brake lines, replace if necessary.
  • Put on braided brake lines
  • Engine flush and new engine oil + filter
  • New brake fluid
  • Probably: new radiator and coolant flush
  • Take as much stuff off underneath and treat for rust and cross fingers that no welding is required.

Once all that is done then I'll put it through the MOT as I figure there's no point driving it around if something's going to fall off on me.

Is this an MOT fail/advisory (all of them are like this)? Can the springs be refurbed (e.g. wire brush or something)? Can I replace the springs only?
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This is the subframe underneath:
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This is the front - hopefully just some wire brushing and rust treatment required:
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I'll get this old whippet in to shape.

shnazzle

Looks about right. 
Couple surprises... Hole in the subframe??? That frame has done less than 50k miles! If that. Sure it isn't just surface rust and a drain hole? 

Springs can be replaced. But quite frankly, I'd replace the suspension. The dampers are tired and no longer at their best. New springs, while looking prettier, might be false economy. Hence I was looking to replace with Koni inserts (I have two used struts to chop and 2 quite fresh top mounts if you're interested). 

A-arms, definitely. I got some just before lockdown and then never fitted them, as never drove it again. 

Engine flush really shouldn't be necessary. It's always had top notch oil 2x a year. Up to you of course. 

Caliper refurb. Yup. I did my best with them last time but the pins are a bit pitted. With the car standing it probably seized again. Seemed to brake fine though. 
These are the original calipers, so they owe me/you nothing. 

...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Yeah I was able to put my finger through the darker part to the right of the picture, lot of flaky bits flaking off. It's in the recessed bit underneath the subframe and above where the exhaust is. I'll double/triple check and get the wire brush on it when I've got more time. Maybe I can get away with it for now?

I reckon I might have a go at the sliders first then... might be okay. Not sure if worth going for 4 new calipers or not...? Most are from refurb places anyway so am thinking I might as well refurb them myself.

A-arms I've heard Yaris ones are the ones to go for? Not sure on this though.

Not sure on the suspension just yet. Would be good to get it going first and see how I get on and replace them later if I can. I wonder whether I can rub down the springs to make it look better for the MOT?  :))

shnazzle

It's never failed MOT before and it's been much the same for a good few years now. The BC springs rust very quickly. I remember when I first moved to this house, 6 years ago, I had the car up and I remarked to Helen on how surprised I was at the amount of rust.

The sale add for the a-arms that went to Nvy is still viewable. Should have the part number on it. You need to get the right ones. Yaris or Scion from the US. 
I forgot who bought them. @Nvy I think. He may be able to confirm they're 100% right by now

Come to think of the brakes... I didn't get to the rears. I had a set of EBC yellowstuff for the rears. I was going to put those on, clean the brakes and fit the spacers. Lockdown hit.
So, I did the fronts (hence the new discs and fresh yellowstuff pads) but not the rears. Give the pins a go with some fine sandpaper and plenty ceratec. But a refurb kit is only 35gbp...

For the springs, can always give them a brush and a coat of black hammerite haha.

...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Decided to go for a refurb kit on the brakes so they'll get new pistons etc. Is there anything particular needed for the mechanism where the handbrake connects to does anyone know?

I'm going to swap the sumps over and spend a few hours wire-brushing everything at the weekend. There's loads of flaky metal but it seems to me like it's potentially underseal that is flaking off. Things seem generally solid as far as I can tell. So I've got a load of rust converter and other bits to help prevent rust so I'm happy to chuck it through the MOT once these bits are done (I think).

My only big concern is the sub-frame, I could probably get it through the MOT, especially with the rear nappy on but question is: should I?

Gaz mr-s

Post up a pic of the subframe above the exhaust.

MrChris

Okay here we go.

First shot establishes the scene :D
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Second shot a bit closer showing the area.
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Third shot with the grommet taken out.
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Final shot after I stuck my finger in there (a big old chunk fell out).
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shnazzle

Ffs I can't believe that. Its not even that old and this is not a high rust area!
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Seems to me like the subframes would be better without those grommets? I'm guessing it's trapped in a fair bit of water over time.

Gaz mr-s

Quote from: MrChris on March 22, 2022, 12:21Seems to me like the subframes would be better without those grommets? I'm guessing it's trapped in a fair bit of water over time.

Yeah, it's puzzled me too. Toyota could have treated it inside & made it a sealed unit.  The addition of bungs afterwards is strange to my thinking.

Unlucky. Get a couple of tins of your favourite release agent & hopefully you have access to heat.

MrChris

Quote from: Gaz mr-s on March 22, 2022, 12:38Yeah, it's puzzled me too. Toyota could have treated it inside & made it a sealed unit.  The addition of bungs afterwards is strange to my thinking.

Unlucky. Get a couple of tins of your favourite release agent & hopefully you have access to heat.

I'm guessing a new subframe is in order then!

I've got a heat gun, penetrating fluid and a very hefty impact wrench so... yeah hopefully this won't be too painful. I guess I can refurb/rebush a bunch of the arms etc. underneath while I'm at it and get to any other areas that might need some treatment.

J88TEO

Good luck with the nuts and bolts!
One of mine was rusted solid and no amount of heat and penetrating agent would shift it!

shnazzle

Quote from: J88TEO on March 22, 2022, 15:26Good luck with the nuts and bolts!
One of mine was rusted solid and no amount of heat and penetrating agent would shift it!
Last time I did the subframe everything came off without even so much as a breaker bar. The bolts don't see much water at all and they're not threadlocked.

Most suspension bolts came off when I did the clutch a few years ago. Didn't need any heat or anything. Everything came off fine.

But...hell..i thought the subframe was solid so... 
...neutiquam erro.

shnazzle

On another note; JSpec @J-SPEC just advertised that they have a load of good rear calipers in stock.

If you don't know JSpec, you soon will. 
...neutiquam erro.

TheTigerUK

Quote from: MrChris on March 22, 2022, 11:45Okay here we go.



Final shot after I stuck my finger in there (a big old chunk fell out).
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Scary :(
Say it with love, say it with flowers but never, never, say it in writing.

Not perfect and not cheap :)

Joesson

@MrChris said:

Is there anything particular needed for the mechanism where the handbrake connects to does anyone know?

Some members have used these Rubber gaiters for cable end( MG part)

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/113230491760?hash=item1a5d103070:g:SnkAAMXQUmFSphV6

1979scotte

Quote from: shnazzle on March 21, 2022, 19:38Looks about right.
Couple surprises... Hole in the subframe??? That frame has done less than 50k miles! If that. Sure it isn't just surface rust and a drain hole?



You could be right but I had an 06 55k miles that had a holy subframe.
And tbh where you live in the country won't have don't it any favours.
And you actually drove it places.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

MrChris

Quote from: 1979scotte on March 23, 2022, 09:34You could be right but I had an 06 55k miles that had a holy subframe.
And tbh where you live in the country won't have don't it any favours.
And you actually drove it places.

It does look like it's been parked in the sea at some point   :o   :))

Got under it again earlier at lunch as the sun is shining and I found more rubber grommets where water/moisture has been collecting under the seats/footwells. I think it can mostly be saved with my wire brush and rust converter.

Not really sure in the point of all these rubber bungs I'm finding that seem to be at the lowest parts of the metal structures, unless it's to stop ingress of water from the road in to the cabin (instead of other way round).

MrChris

I've been managing to get under the car for about an hour each evening before it gets dark. Today was particularly productive as I've nearly got the subframe out. Will save me lots of time for the weekend.

First off a package from @J-SPEC arrived courtesy of @shnazzle. Any ideas what bolts I need to attach this? I should look to see if the ones I need are already under the car too...:
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 I call this "weight saving":
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All bolts off the subframe. I literally just need to split the ball joint thingies on a couple of the arms and it'll slide right out. Only one bolt sheared off and that was one to hold the ABS cable so no biggie. Others were relatively fine! My impact hammer/wrench thing is incredible. Also helps that @shnazzle seems to have used anti-seize on the bolts.
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shnazzle

The bolts for that brace are where they're supposed to be.
I remembered to put them back at about 6:45 the night of its collection haha!

I did indeed use a fair bit of anti-seize over the last few jobs. Glad it helped 
...neutiquam erro.

Carolyn

The bolts are M8 x 1.5  15mm long.
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

MrChris

Glad the bolts are there, cheers!

@Carolyn this is why I love this forum!