Now for the ol' razzle Shnazzle

Started by MrChris, March 20, 2022, 19:52

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MrChris

I need to remove these still. Do I need a special tool to separate or can I wang on it with a hammer until it pops out (yes I have already undone the nut on the other side)?
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J88TEO

Invest in a ball joint separator - faily cheap. I bought one when doing my Lexus struts.

MrChris

Quote from: J88TEO on March 25, 2022, 08:42Invest in a ball joint separator - faily cheap. I bought one when doing my Lexus struts.

Something like this: Amazon splitter thingy ?


MrChris

Quote from: J88TEO on March 25, 2022, 10:13Yes...

Thanks it's just I've never had one of these tools, the last time I needed to separate a ball joint on a car I hit it with a big hammer but I'd like to be a bit more sympathetic with the 2! Hopefully this fits, reasonably inexpensive and arrives today.

Nvy

Quote from: shnazzle on March 21, 2022, 20:14It's never failed MOT before and it's been much the same for a good few years now. The BC springs rust very quickly. I remember when I first moved to this house, 6 years ago, I had the car up and I remarked to Helen on how surprised I was at the amount of rust.

The sale add for the a-arms that went to Nvy is still viewable. Should have the part number on it. You need to get the right ones. Yaris or Scion from the US.
I forgot who bought them. @Nvy I think. He may be able to confirm they're 100% right by now

Come to think of the brakes... I didn't get to the rears. I had a set of EBC yellowstuff for the rears. I was going to put those on, clean the brakes and fit the spacers. Lockdown hit.
So, I did the fronts (hence the new discs and fresh yellowstuff pads) but not the rears. Give the pins a go with some fine sandpaper and plenty ceratec. But a refurb kit is only 35gbp...

For the springs, can always give them a brush and a coat of black hammerite haha.



I got them just last Saturday but can check if there is a part number or anything on them. Wont install them for a while.

Bossworld

Going back a few posts but rear caliper slider pins are only about £2 each from Toyota (yes I was surprised too!)

shnazzle

Guessing the ol' girl is off to the crusher's by now?

Sad really. I was still happily hooning around in it not long ago.
It definitely didn't seem end-of-life. But then I can't remember the last time I had the front bumper off, and that hole in the subframe will always puzzle me. Only thing I can think is that the subframe I replaced the original with had a shitty repair job hidden under that paint. 

Funny to think how many hours I spent on/under that car. End of an era.
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

#33
Quote from: shnazzle on June 18, 2022, 21:56Guessing the ol' girl is off to the crusher's by now?

Sad really. I was still happily hooning around in it not long ago.
It definitely didn't seem end-of-life. But then I can't remember the last time I had the front bumper off, and that hole in the subframe will always puzzle me. Only thing I can think is that the subframe I replaced the original with had a shitty repair job hidden under that paint.

Funny to think how many hours I spent on/under that car. End of an era.

Not so fast @shnazzle the car is still on jack stands but she's getting there!

I've not had a huge amount of time to work on the car, and when I have had spare time it's generally been raining. Here's where we're at anyway:

  • Handbrake cables are about as free as I can get them. I must have poured a good half a bottle of machine oil down each one  :))
  • New calipers are on, just need bleeding.
  • Speaking of calipers, the retaining bracket for the handbrake on one of the old calipers has a buggered bolt which I need to get off somehow (or buy a new bracket).
  • I'm awaiting a new gasket kit for the cat and then will try and get it back together properly as it's clearly not sealed properly.
  • The plastics and nappies need fixing on properly.
  • The brace underneath needs to be put on.
  • Reattach the rear control arm ball joints (pain in the arse) and then try and syringe some grease in.
  • Clean out the spider that has tried to take over the inside, take it somewhere to get a full alignment and try and get it through an MOT.

I've had two comments from neighbours about when the wheels are going on so I'd better get a move on  :-[

I had the engine running today and it's all good. As for my previous post about the corrosion around the radiator.. it seems fine, so I may get a couple of plates welded in some time in the future.

It's thrown up far (far, far) more issues than I thought it would and time just isn't on my side. Bit disappointing as I wanted to get back in to MR2ing sooner than later, but I shall prevail.

Edit: regarding the subframe, it's been patched which should hold for a while. But yeah thoroughly rotten in the classic place just above the exhaust.

MrChris

One little victory... The bracket for the handbrake cable is off. Dremel plus hammer did it. The screw rusted good and proper... Picture shows where I cut the top off.

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MrChris

#35
Small update:

Rear brakes on, bled and handbrake appears to be working - pedal feels a little spongy so a rebleed may be in order.

Managed to get ball joints on with new nuts and an extremely thorough clean of all threads (works wonders).

Car cleaned, new oil in. All plastics back on except for nappies (may just leave these off).

Went to lower the car back on to it's wheels but noticed the subframe was not on properly on one side. Looks like bolts are threaded so have some on order from J-SPEC. Once this is sorted, the car can get back on its wheels finally and then it's time for 4 wheel alignment and an MOT (and a celebratory picture).

Edit: the calipers are now RED! :D

shnazzle

...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

#37
Back on the ground and ready for its MOT on Tuesday, wish me luck...

Final things to do are to work out why the driver's side seat rocks forward under braking (passenger's does not) and figure out why passenger window switch doesn't work. Hopefully both simple things.

Drive is in a bit of a state after oil changing/sump changing/Dinitrol :o

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Carolyn

Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 11:23Back on the ground and ready for its MOT on Tuesday, wish me luck...

Final things to do are to work out why the driver's side seat rocks forward under braking (passenger's does not) and figure out why passenger window switch doesn't work. Hopefully both simple things.

Drive is in a bit of a state after oil changing/sump changing/Dinitrol :o

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Window switch:  I take it you don't have it turned off?
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

MrChris

Quote from: Carolyn on July  9, 2022, 11:51Window switch:  I take it you don't have it turned off?


That is a good question as there are about 3 switches in the car and I don't know what they do. Thanks!

shnazzle

Wrt the seats; maybe possible I didn't align the rails properly when I swapped the seats?
Try loosening the bolts and then pulling the handle. Maybe it's just slightly out of alignment. It usually means the holes don't line up, which they definitely did,but worth a shot.
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 17:52Wrt the seats; maybe possible I didn't align the rails properly when I swapped the seats?
Try loosening the bolts and then pulling the handle. Maybe it's just slightly out of alignment. It usually means the holes don't line up, which they definitely did,but worth a shot.


Checked that, your alignment is all good :) I took the seats out to have a good look, on the picture where I've circled in red is the mechanism where the handle locks and unlocks the rails. This has play in it to varying degrees across all four rails, the drivers side being the worst. Any idea how this can be adjusted without dismantling the seats?

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shnazzle

#42
Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 18:52Checked that, your alignment is all good :) I took the seats out to have a good look, on the picture where I've circled in red is the mechanism where the handle locks and unlocks the rails. This has play in it to varying degrees across all four rails, the drivers side being the worst. Any idea how this can be adjusted without dismantling the seats?

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Never heard of that being adjustable. Had a look at the manual and that shows nothing.

It might also have to do with the reclining lever, as the rails unlock when you put it in recline.

I can't remember these seats doing that when they were in Helen's car. Just asked Helen and she said that same (she spent all the time in those seats). Which points to an install issue. Does it seem to do it with the seats out of the car?
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 19:05Never heard of that being adjustable. Had a look at the manual and that shows nothing.

It might also have to do with the reclining lever, as the rails unlock when you put it in recline.

I can't remember these seats doing that when they were in Helen's car. Just asked Helen and she said that same (she spent all the time in those seats). Which points to an install issue. Does it seem to do it with the seats out of the car?

Yeah it's more pronounced in both seats when out of the car. I wonder if some sort of circlip would work? Basically the things circled red are held in with some kind of pin so would be a pain to get out. A circlip type thing could fill the gap I'd imagine.

shnazzle

Quote from: MrChris on July  9, 2022, 19:20Yeah it's more pronounced in both seats when out of the car. I wonder if some sort of circlip would work? Basically the things circled red are held in with some kind of pin so would be a pain to get out. A circlip type thing could fill the gap I'd imagine.
Worth a shot!
I've definitely had it in other mr2s (and mine, but not those seats) where I've moved the seat and I didn't latch it properly and it clicks into place when I accelerate or brake. But the seat lunging forward is new to me.

Maybe the spring has lost tension? 
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Quote from: shnazzle on July  9, 2022, 19:24Worth a shot!
I've definitely had it in other mr2s (and mine, but not those seats) where I've moved the seat and I didn't latch it properly and it clicks into place when I accelerate or brake. But the seat lunging forward is new to me.

Maybe the spring has lost tension?

Not really sure, it's definitely the whole base rather than the reclining bit and it's definitely not clicking into the runner. I wonder if the pins can be squeezed together a bit more? It's just allowing some movement and it's pronounced under braking due to the additional force involved.

MrChris

Well it failed the MOT...  :'(

Bit of a mixed bag, and a couple of embarrassing ones:

1) Both rear brake pipes were not connected to the calipers properly and therefore leaking. Whoops, totally my fault.
2) The classic "parking brake efficiency below requirements" - could be related to the first point and therefore it's not properly adjusted. The cables are definitely moving so hopefully fix 1, then readjust the handbrake and fix 2...
3) Windscreen washer not working - could be low on fluids or is broken. Easy fix either way.
4) Coil spring on off-side front is broken.
5) It has more than 1 VIN number across different panels. Never had this before. Tester advised to scrape off the ones that don't match the actual VIN.

Never done suspension work before so would be keen for suggestions on how to easily, quickly and cheaply fix the suspension before my 10 days is up for a retest.

Also is it possible to test the handbrake efficiency at home?

Of course, the upside to all of this is that everything else is great :D

shnazzle

Bugger! 
The VIN panel will be the door that I replaced. Didn't even know it was on there. 
...neutiquam erro.

MrChris

Quote from: shnazzle on July 12, 2022, 09:42Bugger!
The VIN panel will be the door that I replaced. Didn't even know it was on there.

Yeah and on the boot lid. Will be easy enough to sort out.

I'm really unsure what to do about the spring. I know the suspension is old, but I didn't really want to splash out just yet. I'm wondering if I can replace the spring with one from BC? Maybe I need to do a pair? Do you know the spec of the coilovers so I can source the correct spring?

tricky1138

Didnt think the door had a VIN plate on! Knew the VIN was on the door pillar, but never on the door - how strange.

Would have thought it shouldnt be on there for just that reason - parts can be swapped, so should be on a panel that cant be removed from the car!
2004 FL, Black, Matt Brace, Team Dynamics Monza R, Tein Springs, TTE Exhaust, heated black leather seats, black leather armrest,  Zunsport grills, Midship front badge,  TRD spoiler, Halo DRLs with LED fogs, large clear wind defector, Krissg kick panels,  small mongos.