Horrific 2zz Black MR-S bodge work "track car"

Started by threepot, May 30, 2022, 15:05

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threepot

I cannot take the credit for the good find.

Someone else on here posted up about the drop links, and they showed a photo of what they received when they bought the "special" ones compatible with the Whiteline ARB... this thread here https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=70714.50

QuoteFronts are Mitsubishi Motors 4056A044's instead of stock MR2 (RN-UPR-4):-

I googled that 4056A044 and ended up on the spring-loaded-suspension ebay site with a drop link that looked just right  8)

threepot

#26
Roof is going for paint, been doing loads of touch ups on the paintwork. Bit of wet sanding and some machine polishing. I think its looking pretty good for a track slapper now. New number plates and the proper backing plate mounts for them too. Managed to find some chinese copy prius fog lights for £25 for the pair that fit the bumper perfect, they have the same part number as the later facelift MR2 fog lights.

It passed its MOT Friday, and is now Taxed and insured - ready for a bit of testing for reliability etc.

Fixed a couple of major exhaust leaks, but it's not perfect, needs the manifold coming off and a stud replacing as it's blowing on the gasket between flange and head. The V band flanges between the manifold and exhaust are distorted from when they were welded on and will never seal, thus it is sucking in oxygen making the car run rich which stinks when you leave it ticking over. It's alot better now but I want the exhaust sealed near perfect.

Another issues has been highlighted on the drive back from the MOT.... the tracking is WAYYYY out, it has loads of toe out, and I think it is because someone has cambered the coil overs inwards without getting it tracked afterwards. It drove like a total pig, totally lethal under braking as it wants to dive left or right depending which side has grip. Christ knows how anyone could drive it like that. The track rods appear to not have been touched in many years.

I've moved the camber to basically the zero point, then set the tracking by eye to have a little toe in. Will get it on the Hunter Alignment system at the Tyrz Garage in Congleton next week when the pillow block rear arms are fitted, along with the Whiteline ARB's, drop links, poly bushed front arms etc. Think I'll put some Goodridge stainless braided hoses on it at the same time.

I've just MOT'd it with 63,763 miles on the clock.
It was last MOT'd 23 July 2019 with 63,080 miles.
And before that 28 June 2016 with 60,230 miles.
In 6 years it's done 3,500 miles!

But the good news in this is the engine seems pretty sweet, runs mint, doesn't overheat or spew coolant out.

Chilli Girl

#27
Brilliant news and work done by you.  I don't reckon it's "horrific" now. It looks a great car, well done. ;D
Ex owners of Chilli red facelift 52 reg called Chilli, silver 55 reg called Foxy and blue pfl W reg MR-S called Sapphire. Now 2 less!

fawtytoo

Your "horrific" car looks better than mine.
"My name is not important" - Slartibartfast

threepot

#29
Project Horrific has been progressing.Been tidying stuff up everywhere, lots of wiring loom taping and clipping etc. Swapped the seats about because the drivers seat was too big to clear the cage, thus not enough leg room.

Then pushed some time and money in under the arches:-


White Line ARBs front and back, beefy drop links.
Pillow ball rear arms, and poly bushed.
New front arms with polybushes.
PFL 15" wheels with NS2R's
New track rod ends, rack ends and boots... I like to give the alignment guy something decent to work with.

Then in this morning for a Hunter alignment job...


And the other night I found some left over carbon effect vinyl wrap stuff, so went on a bit of a mission to hide the bright orange roll cage as I feel like a bit of a prat driving it on the road looking like a turnip.



And lastly, I've fixed the sticky accelerator pedal issue, that would jam closed after big vacuum points, which was caused because the throttle stop screw was set wrong, someone has obviously been trying to fix the tickover issue in the past.

Bought a standard front undertray as that was missing, which I suspect is quite important for the front end aerodynamics at speed, and also the function of getting air though the radiator due to the whole high pressure zone in front and low pressure zone in the engine bay idea.

But  :(  it has also become apparent the thrust release bearing is very noisy after 10 minutes of driving, so it would seem that someone went to the trouble of putting a whole engine and gearbox in it, with out even spending £150 on a new clutch kit while they were at it. I'll get some track days out of it this year, then over winter pull the whole engine gearbox out of it. Replace the cams with something less worn, new lightweight flywheel, baffled sump. And the brand new unused 2ZZ gearbox I have stashed in my shed can be put in it, as 2nd is a little crunchy as per normal on these 2zz's.

Last jobs before its first track day with me:-
-Some braided brake hoses as the front passenger one is falling apart where it has been stretched/bent due to the brackets being in a different place on the coil overs than standard shockers.
-Re-locate the battery into the front trunk, just above the cross member.
-Make a front bracing frame like a face lift car, but with a plate on in for improved under car aerodynamics.

I have been ragging it about at night a bit, and its is mega fun!

JB21

#30
If you've paid less than £4k and the engine and chassis is solid then you've not done bad at all.

I've got loads of auxiliary engine parts if you need anything.

threepot

I'm a few drinks short of £5k right now all in.

Mark A

Interesting geo setup, any experience with that set up? I'm always interested in what other people are running in the quest for handling nirvana.

Mine is pretty similar
Front camber -2.25
      caster  2.5
      toe -    .03
Rear camber  -1.3
     toe       .01

threepot

#33
You have that trade off...

more camber - unequal tyre wear, less turn in grip, but more grip when some roll is induced.

Toe in - induces straight line stability, but reduced willingness to turn in. Toe in also helps keep the tyres warm.

Really, as long as its all pointing in a symmetrical manor, with nothing too wild I'm sure it'll be good enough for a prick like me. I think it handles pretty hot at the moment!

My other MR2 is a bit more aggressive on the toe in... I can't feel much difference to be fair


Anyway, started doing the battery relocation job today, took the battery and tray out, and look at this engine mounting bolt....



JB21

Quote from: Mark A on June 17, 2022, 17:03Interesting geo setup, any experience with that set up? I'm always interested in what other people are running in the quest for handling nirvana.

Mine is pretty similar
Front camber -2.25
      caster  2.5
      toe -    .03
Rear camber  -1.3
     toe       .01

My 2ZZ track set up, works very well with current chassis hardware.

front (each side) camber -3.00/toe out -1mm
rear (each side) camber -3.00/toe in +2mm

threepot

Is that toe in/out really in mm's? Where is it measured from?

JB21

Quote from: threepot on June 18, 2022, 10:17Is that toe in/out really in mm's? Where is it measured from?

mm yeah. What do you mean measured from?

1mm = °0.09 running a 15" rim

threepot

How do you work that out? Where do you measure this 1mm? Or do you measure in degrees?

When I do some basic Trigonometry on a 15" - 381mm wheel, I cannot get anything line this conversion factor, I get 1mm = 0.3 degrees.

Educate me :)

JB21

Quote from: threepot on June 18, 2022, 11:50How do you work that out? Where do you measure this 1mm? Or do you measure in degrees?

When I do some basic Trigonometry on a 15" - 381mm wheel, I cannot get anything line this conversion factor, I get 1mm = 0.3 degrees.

Educate me :)

mm is used when aligning toe via the string method.

Conversion chart below from trackace

http://www.trackace.co.uk/Manual/Conversion%20Chart.pdf

threepot

#39
Fitted some engine mount inserts tonight, and some brooks shifter linkage bushes.


But on taking the engine mounts off, look at the state of the top bolt in the front engine mount  :o


Whoever put the engine in this car needs taking off the tools ASAP. Are they having a few cans on the job?  :-\  Everything I look at is a bit half arsed or buggered up.

Luckily a quality tap sorted the thread out and all came good.

Tomorrow I get to collect the freshly painted hard top and bonnet, can't wait to see the car all the same colour.

Alex Knight

That is astonishing. Would make me want to check every nut and bolt on the car.

threepot

#41
Bonnet and hard top were collected this morning, painted inside and out. I took all the seals and glue off thus no crappy masking lines or over spray on everything, so had to reassemble before fitting, safest place seemed the spare bed - wife was less than impressed by chasing threads on the bedding.


On refitting the hardtop with the Rogue mounts, managed to tap out all the threads first and thus got all the bolts in properly - new stainless flange head bolts... plus I bought from Japan a pair of the rear hardtop mounts as they were missing. These Rogue mounts are a bit crap really as they don't pull the hardtop up tight on the rubbers, there is no tensioning system like the OEM clasps, and half the rigidity (and water/wind proofing) is in the tight fit. I will come up with something.



Plus while on my travels I picked these up from the powder coating plate  8) Just add tyres



Chilli Girl

Your doing brilliantly with this - really well done, it's good to see it all coming together. ;D
Ex owners of Chilli red facelift 52 reg called Chilli, silver 55 reg called Foxy and blue pfl W reg MR-S called Sapphire. Now 2 less!

Hammond

Quote from: Chilli Girl on June 24, 2022, 20:01Your doing brilliantly with this - really well done, it's good to see it all coming together. ;D

I couldn't agree more! This is tidying up nicely.
05' silver

threepot

#44
Thank you  ;D  I am rather smitten by it.

Gear change linkages have made an amazing difference, can actually find gears better now.

I've been out for 2 hours ringing this things neck round the famous buxton roads, done it a few nights over the last couple of weeks.

Problem is after 20 minutes its unbearably hot in the cabin. I have to drive holding the drivers door open for a couple of minutes. It just get hotter and hotter, sweating my face off. Hell knows how anyone could do a track day in this thing.

Yesterday a used pair of doors turned up on a pallet in the right paint code.

And these ones have WINDOWS THAT FRICKIN OPEN  :o  :o  :o  ;D

Who would have ever thought of that radical innovation.

threepot

#45
There is a jobs list I am striking off before next weeks 1st track day outing in the 2zz car.

The pair of black doors I bought on ebay have been fitted, locks swapped, mirrors fitted, machine polished with rubbing compound then touch up painted any chips, and stripped back of any sharp bits on the inside as no door cards in this car. All this to get a pair of functioning window mechanism which I have wired up with dash mounted switches fed by the OEM window fuses.

Finished off the battery relocation job, still needs some paint but its a safe install now with a 100 amp reset-able breaker (which I've tested). So if any of the cable run got ripped off or shorted out then it'll trip out and thus not burn to the curb.

This morning some cheeky tyres were delivered, might get them fitted tomorrow. Need to get a good ride out on a night to scrub them in a bit before the track day. Lets hope I don't stack this car on its first outing.



threepot

Project Horrific strikes again!!

Been out for a drive about this morning, another shake down.

Turned it off, then it wouldn't restart. Cranks over mega slow.

It did this last week outside a mates house. This time though it wouldn't start.

Got 2 girls to give it a push and it started OK. Brought it back home, wouldn't start again. Went for a brew for 15 mins, then it would start again.

Voltages are good, charging/alternator is good. No voltage drops over the cables or ground straps etc.

Pretty sure the starter is getting stiff/draggy when its hot, or 1 of the 4 brushes inside isn't contacting.

Best get this starter motor dropped off the car tonight and strip it down.

J88TEO


Chilli Girl

Quote from: threepot on June 29, 2022, 14:10Project Horrific strikes again!!

Been out for a drive about this morning, another shake down.

Turned it off, then it wouldn't restart. Cranks over mega slow.

It did this last week outside a mates house. This time though it wouldn't start.

Got 2 girls to give it a push and it started OK. Brought it back home, wouldn't start again. Went for a brew for 15 mins, then it would start again.

Voltages are good, charging/alternator is good. No voltage drops over the cables or ground straps etc.

Pretty sure the starter is getting stiff/draggy when its hot, or 1 of the 4 brushes inside isn't contacting.

Best get this starter motor dropped off the car tonight and strip it down.

Good girls!

Ex owners of Chilli red facelift 52 reg called Chilli, silver 55 reg called Foxy and blue pfl W reg MR-S called Sapphire. Now 2 less!

threepot

#49
Yes they were super duper girls indeed! I felt pretty cheeky asking but it was that or a long walk.

So stripped down both starter motors.... both of them has 1 set of carbon brushes worn down to the bone.

Makes me wonder if the "spare" starter included with the car was actually the old knackard one, that was then replaced with another second hand one. 20 year old cars and all that nonsense.

So did a little cut and shut job, cutting and soldering the good bushes in the place of the worn out one.

All seems to work OK on the bench, will refit tonight!



These starters have no magnets in them, they use electromagnets for both the rotor winding and the field winding. Whats happening is one of the brushes is so worn down it isn't making contact, thus the outer field is powered up, but the rotor inside is not powered up.... so the starter motor just becomes a big fat electric heater/magnet instead.