Is there a Guide to removing the rear ''Nappy '' on a Facelift 2006 Mk3 please ?

Started by carspath, August 22, 2022, 16:51

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carspath

Hi Everyone ,

I want to rust-proof the underside of my 2006 Mk3 ,and I am keen to get the rust-proofing agent on the rear subframe too .
Access to spraying the rear subframe is restricted by the rear ''Nappy '' , so I would like to know if I can remove this plastic trim easily , and if so how to go about it .

Using tehn Search function I came across the following from Markiii ( Thanks Markiii ) , but was hoping that I could get a more detailed description of how to get the nappy off as I am not good with spanners :

 

  ''  (3) - Next I disconnected the nappy, this is done by removing 5 x 10mm bolts, 3 from the bottom edge of the bumper panel, they look like this, and 2 that are held at the front of the nappy, there is also a plastic clip on the right that will need to be removed, it's the same as all theother plastic clips in this job, just lever out the middle a few mm and then pull the whole thing out.  ''

Thank you   

Call the midlife!

Other than adding the advice to douse everything with release fluid of your choice the day before and to go really slowly with the screws there's nothing to tell really.
It'll all become self explanatory when you make a start.
60% of the time it works everytime...

McMr2

Quote from: carspath on August 22, 2022, 16:51Hi Everyone ,

I want to rust-proof the underside of my 2006 Mk3 ,and I am keen to get the rust-proofing agent on the rear subframe too .
Access to spraying the rear subframe is restricted by the rear ''Nappy '' , so I would like to know if I can remove this plastic trim easily , and if so how to go about it .

Using tehn Search function I came across the following from Markiii ( Thanks Markiii ) , but was hoping that I could get a more detailed description of how to get the nappy off as I am not good with spanners :

 

  ''  (3) - Next I disconnected the nappy, this is done by removing 5 x 10mm bolts, 3 from the bottom edge of the bumper panel, they look like this, and 2 that are held at the front of the nappy, there is also a plastic clip on the right that will need to be removed, it's the same as all theother plastic clips in this job, just lever out the middle a few mm and then pull the whole thing out.  ''

Thank you   

It is an easy job, only a few screws to remove and, as above, it becomes apparent once you start. Be prepared that the threads on the mounting holes might need some TLC when it all goes back together.
2004 Silver. Stock(ish).

Carolyn

Rather than cover the bottom of you car in a layer of goop may I suggest removing and surface rust with a wire brush, treating the areas with a good rust convertor/treatment (like Bilt Hamber) and then painting with zinc primer and a top coat of something close you your car's paint colour?

It will give better rust protection and it won't devalue your car.  I've had to peel 'rust proof' coating off the underside of more than one MR2 only to find water trapped behind it and quite a lot of rot!
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

carspath

Thank you both -- so please could I confirm that it is just 5 screws only AND that the single plastic clip levers out and can then be reused again ?

Thanks again

Carolyn

You will probably have to replace a few of the plastic fasteners and you can expect to shear a bolt or two.  No disaster!

A bit of drilling and tapping will sort any 'mishaps'.  If you haven't done it before it's not too difficult.  Carefully drill with a 5MM bit and re-tap with an M6 x 1.5 tap. 
Perry Byrnes Memorial Award 2016, 2018.  Love this club. 
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=63866.0

Joesson

@carspath
From my own long ago experience and what I've read here and elsewhere corrosion can very often start inside the box sections of car frames, such as the sills and front and rear cross members, the two latter having convenient grommets to access the interior with a corrosion protecting spray via a long nozzle as supplied by Bilt Hamber. I'm not a fan of Waxoyl product as that has to be heated to apply and will melt in hot weather and find its way out of the section.

cptspaulding

Quote from: carspath on August 22, 2022, 17:51Thank you both -- so please could I confirm that it is just 5 screws only AND that the single plastic clip levers out and can then be reused again ?

Thanks again
Like the old Haynes manuals with (poor) photographs showing dismantling of new assemblies, in theory you are correct, however, given your car is 16 years old & these screws are on the underside, then as Carolyn says, expect to shear a bolt or two.

I'll be surprised however if many of those bolts haven't already been sheared. Most of us with undertrays have them held up by cable ties which generally work fine. There's little weight in the trays. Which brings me to another tip. Have plenty cable ties to hand either to replace the ones you cut off or to substitute for sheared bolts, if you cba drilling & tapping.
Former owner 2003, 2zz conversion.

TheTigerUK

I have replaced all or most of my under tray bolts front and back and greased them when I replaced them, I can't do any of the clever stuff but this type of maintenance is perfect for me.
Say it with love, say it with flowers but never, never, say it in writing.

Not perfect and not cheap :)

carspath

Thank you all.

All the bolts came off easily , and then screwed back into place fine so need of any cable ties .

Wired brushed , and then sprayed with an air compressor directed anti rust proofing coat .

Hopefully this will stave off the worst of the winter,s ravages .

Thanks again

cptspaulding

Quote from: carspath on August 29, 2022, 18:16All the bolts came off easily , and then screwed back into place fine so need of any cable ties .
Are you sure it's an MR2 you have?  :))

Seriously though. Pleased to hear your success. Hope you used a bit of copper slip or the like replacing the bolts. Keeps it easy for next time :)
Former owner 2003, 2zz conversion.