2AR-FXE Lexus Hybrid Synergy engine swap project.

Started by threepot, November 4, 2022, 22:59

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threepot

This trying to tune a yaris ECU to run the 2AR-FXE really isn't going quite as planned. This engine has such low VE at crank over due to the atkins valve timing. I can make it run pretty OK, but I can't make it start without squirting some fuel at it. On the other hand if I enrichen the tables then it will start but runs evil rich on idle.

threepot

Hope is not all lost... with a little help I have found in the UK we had the 2az-fe / 1az-fe in the RAV4 2.0 petrol, which has the same design of ECU but is only a single VVT engine.

It is 100% pin compatible with the yaris ECU and the ECU for 2AR-FE Camry/TC that Marc @ Frankenstein runs.

I have one on order and will continue this adventure next week.

threepot

#27
It's not compatible, uses a old style cam sensor.... another frigging Toyota ECU on my shelf stack in the office  >:(

EDIT: There is still hope for the yaris ECU, because it turns out I got a few wires the wrong way round which wasn't helping the cause at all.

And it ticks over quite nicely now since fixing the couple of wrong wires (my table has errors and will be updated)

You can hear the improvement on the idle when the cam timing is advanced....


threepot

Drive Shafts... So Frankenstein list on their website you need these drive shafts:-
https://frankensteinmotorworks.squarespace.com/2ar-spyder-axle-guide

1) TrakMotive TO-8154 = 43420-42070  (use inner CV for left) (use shaft + outer CV for right)
Toyota RAV4 2WD 2000-2005 622mm

2) TrakMotive TO-8156 = 43420-42120  (scrap inner CV) (use shaft + outer CV for left)
TOYOTA RAV4 4wd 2000-2005 2.0PETROL AUTO (easily bought in UK) 593mm

3) TrakMotive TO-8270 = 43410-42140  (scrap shaft and outer CV) (use long shafted inner CV for right)


QuoteReconfigure the axles in the following configuration:
Left axle: Center bar and outer section from 2) TO-8156 combined with inner tulip from 1) TO-8154

Right axle: Center bar and outer section from 1) TO-8154 combined with the long inner tulip from 3) TO-8270

Number 1) is a gamble as we did not get the rav4 in 2wd but GSP 259647 (£55 on autodoc) and MESO091301 are available which are from the ZCA25 ZCA26 RAV4 which is 2wd only, and seems to have the same length, splines and abs ring as the TrakMotive TO-8270

Number 2) is common place over here, 2000 to 2004 RAV4 petrol auto.

Number 3) only needed for the R/H the long inner tulip CV shaft bit, which appears to be 43030-42060 https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4303042060
Thus I think the NX300h and RAV4 Hybrid inner shaft and the engine/shaft/bearing mount is the same.

So if this is all correct, which I'll find out, I've just spent £206 on shafts that should get this going in the MR2. Figuring this out has been 4 hours googling and parts catalogue crawling.

jvanzyl

Watching the videos of Marc putting these together is quite amazing... good luck to!

The gears and gasoline final video that came out yesterday is certainly very motivating for this build. I'm sure it be worth it!
01 Silver 1ZZ<br />The Smile Machine: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=59837

Gaz2405

How are you managing to tune the Toyota ECU's, I thought they were locked. Or is that just the roadster ones?.

Interested in software etc.

Great progress keep going!
1zz turbo. Home built and home mapped.

Now 2zz turbo. Home built and home mapped

Build thread https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=67004.0

threepot


threepot

Here is a complete tour of all the tables available to edit in bitedit for this yaris ECU


And I was doing to spreadsheets of costs this morning.

I think this conversion can be done for bang on £4000 plus labour and fabrication.

If it ends up at 230bhp at the wheels, I'd say that is damn good value for money.

And there is lots of scope to continue to tune/upgrade from this base 2AR-FXE.

J88TEO

Can't wait to see how it goes....I have a 2 sitting in the car park...mmmmmmm.

jvanzyl

Quote from: threepot on November 14, 2022, 15:31Here is a complete tour of all the tables available to edit in bitedit for this yaris ECU


And I was doing to spreadsheets of costs this morning.

I think this conversion can be done for bang on £4000 plus labour and fabrication.

If it ends up at 230bhp at the wheels, I'd say that is damn good value for money.

And there is lots of scope to continue to tune/upgrade from this base 2AR-FXE.

Quick question, I'm assuming it's possible to save the map and import it onto another (same) ECU? £4k is insanely cheap for a effectively giving your care a new lease of life with massively available engine.. flipping insane.
01 Silver 1ZZ<br />The Smile Machine: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=59837

J88TEO


jvanzyl

Quote from: J88TEO on November 14, 2022, 16:09Any thoughts about doing a kit?
We're witnessing the birth of Frankenstein motor works U.K. branch...
01 Silver 1ZZ<br />The Smile Machine: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=59837

threepot

#37
Quote from: J88TEO on November 14, 2022, 16:09Any thoughts about doing a kit?

Quote from: jvanzyl on November 14, 2022, 16:12We're witnessing the birth of Frankenstein motor works U.K. branch...

Your f'kin not! I'm already running a business that has more than consumed me. I'm really in no need of further time commitments.

MR2 tinkering is strictly pleasure only for me. And a pleasure that I have very little time to give.

If I get a tune running on this ECU that works, I'd write it onto other nice/honest/genuine members ECU's free of charge. It's not like it'd cost me anything to clone it.

I'm trying to keep a good journal of all the bits I've bought along the way. That why if anyone fancies a similar conversion the info is there.

But this is just an engine running on a floor yet, there is still along path to continue. I'm expecting installation and tuning in January to early March. My business goes crazy over winter so the free time budget will get nibbled.

threepot

#38
Custom CNC'd Cam sensor trigger wheels have come.... now I can try the cam swap etc.





This means I will have to get brave and put the brand new £230 cam shaft in the lathe!

threepot

Tonight I have tried my best to measure the stock cam timing of the 2AR-FXE.

The exhaust cam is short, and in a very typical place.

The intake cam is very late, I would say about 35 degrees behind the normal, which is what leads to the Atkinson cycle reduced compression stroke. By delaying the cam opening time, 40 degrees of suction stroke is wasted as the inlet valves are not open, then a large portion of the compression stroke is wasted because the inlet is still open.

It is obvious how this leads to improving pumping losses - e.g. the engine is easier to turn over as there is less compression stroke to fight.

But I will change all that and make it a normal(ish) engine.

The VVT permits the intake cam to stay in the stock location.. at 35' advancement on the map it puts the intake cam in the normal sort of place, leaving 15' of further advancement to play with.

The big replacement exhaust cam (a 2AR-FXE factory intake cam) will be fitted as close as possible to the OEM exhaust centre line. This will lead to quite alot of overlap but such is life with big cams.





threepot

#40
Crank sensor ring has 36 teeth (2 teeth are flat which give the dwell spot), each tooth is 10 Degrees. Good Document here from the manufacturer..



The exhaust cam sensor should be 5.5 crank teeth in front from this scope plot of a running twin VVT engine = 55 degrees.



I have scoped this 2AR-FXE engine tonight, and I have found the intake cam ring correlates with the crank teeth almost identically. My 2ar-fxe has the cam sensor lining up with the 13th wave, the scope plot I found it lines up on 12.5 waves.... explains why a Hybrid Lexus engine just runs on a 10 year older Yaris ECU! I suspect this cam sensor/crank sensor correlation is a Toyota standard design.



And at TDC Cylinder 1, when I look down the cam sensor hole I see....



So everything sanity checks OK. Thus I need to slip this ring on, and calibrate it at this orientation but 55 degrees more advanced than the intake camshaft, and drill a hole in the right place in the  rocker cover to accept the exhaust cam sensor.



threepot

Spent a few hours messing with this new cam, doing a trail fit and seeing where it sits, putting it on a tooth, dial indicating the cam profile/location.

If the factory pulley is remarked at 11 teeth counter clockwise, then all the factory timing marks are used, you get a quite ideal new cam timing like this...




You can actually get the cam in and out without removing the side cover. Rotate the engine till the two orange marks line up with both OEM pulley marks, then just remove the tensioner through the peep hole, and loosen the pulley... just make sure you don't let the chain drop otherwise you will loose the chain of the crank pulley mark that you can't see.



And that is the exact location to drill the hole for the new exhaust cam sensor. 105.2mm from the edge of the other sensor, and exactly on the rib.

1979scotte

Jesus this looks complicated.
Good luck.
First they came for the socialists, and I did not speak out—because I was not a socialist.
Then they came for the Jews, and I did not speak out—because I was not a Jew.
Then they came for me—and there was no one left to speak for me.

Free Ukraine 🇺🇦

threepot

#43
It's really not too bad, swap a modified camshaft in.. then drill a hole and fit the cam sensor like this:-




And just by total coincidence Toyota put a threaded bolt hole in exactly the right place, a couple of washers under it spaces it out perfectly. I'll see if it works tonight. If it does read correctly I'll then seal it in with some PU adhesive.

To aid putting the sensors wheel on the camshaft in the correct place to actually work, I put it together in CAD so a couple of dimensions can me found. Should be pretty easy to set this with a set of vernier calipers.



Joesson

Quote from: 1979scotte on November 20, 2022, 13:49Jesus this looks complicated.
Good luck.

I don't believe that "luck" has much to do with this project!

threepot

We all need a bit of luck, the bit to chance will be when I fire it up again tonight:-

Good luck = it accepts the cam signal although out of time.... then permits the ECU control the intake VVT as hoped from the maps.

Medium luck = I have to lathe the cam shaft and fit the magic CNC ring to put the wave form in the right place.

Bad luck = Neither work and it was a waste of time, I have to buy an aftermarket ECU or something.

jvanzyl

Quote from: threepot on November 20, 2022, 16:33We all need a bit of luck, the bit to chance will be when I fire it up again tonight:-

Good luck = it accepts the cam signal although out of time.... then permits the ECU control the intake VVT as hoped from the maps.

Medium luck = I have to lathe the cam shaft and fit the magic CNC ring to put the wave form in the right place.

Bad luck = Neither work and it was a waste of time, I have to buy an aftermarket ECU or something.
Good grief I would have stumped you for the aftermarket ECUa few pages back!
01 Silver 1ZZ<br />The Smile Machine: viewtopic.php?f=88&t=59837

threepot

#47
Quote from: threepot on November 20, 2022, 16:33Medium luck = I have to lathe the cam shaft and fit the magic CNC ring to put the wave form in the right place.

I'm quoting myself now... is that like quoting from one of the greats  :))

Turns out we are in the medium luck zone. It runs on the new big boy exhaust cam, which is a success of sorts. Actually it runs surprisingly well, better than I'd expect. Bit lumpy but it isn't tuned.



But with the OEM ring on the cam for the second sensor, the waveform is in the wrong place, get rejected causing a p0017 exhaust/crank correlation fault code.... it was what I was expecting to be fair.

Thus I'll pull the cam out, get over to my Dads shed and get this cam turned down in the lathe to accept the magic CNC ring.

Aftermarket ECU is just too easy, if this works I'm sure there will be others that'll want a clone of this sneaky tune! Maybe other people will improve on it too.

I've redrawn the graph to show the actual cam timing that ended up happening from the choices of teeth etc.



threepot

Operation drive shafts happened today, and it seems like all the parts mash up as planned.

From the 3 driveshafts I bought, it all went together to form the 2 shafts as hoped and they fit in the gearbox perfect.





Leaving these bits as left overs (sloppy seconds maybe?)



But then on fitting the drivers side long shaft that has the carrier bearing on the back of the engine like an MR2, it became apparent that the NX300h/RAV4 carrier is slightly different  ::) it sits too low. Digging the parts catalogue the only one that is correct from first glance is a 2AR-FE Camry 2011 one that is USA only.

NOW... I think there is a saying about owning a welder does not make oneself a welder. I certainly fall into that category.
Weld Porn is certainly not something you will see below this point


So with nothing to lose I've chopped up the RAV4/NX300h one as it is made of steel, then welded it into some rough shape of being a fit.

First I cut this bit off, and notched the bottom hole, thus I could bolt the plate on to the engine, and bolt the bracket on via the opened up bottom hole... so I could keep in on "plane" to the block etc. True it all up best as possible, get the one eyed squint on etc.



Then I could get some good tack welds to rejoin the plate to the bracket now in the right place. Take it back off, weld it up proper, then cut off the bottom mounting, and weld on a new bit of steel to form the bottom mounting.


threepot

#49
So to make turning the teeth off the cam easier on the lathe, I cut the majority off with an angle grinder first. Cutting weird shaped things batters the cutting tip and causes loads of vibration.






Just need to get some calibration on the go, my CAD measurements above don't seem to cure the fault code just yet, I'm pretty sure the devil is in the detail of getting it in exactly the right place. I moved it once and it took quite a while for the code to come back that time. I'll get the scope on it over the next few days and look at the waveforms.

EDIT - Got it setup in the right spot today... now it runs with no fault codes etc. Seems like a winner! Took a bit of tweaking with the oscilloscope to get it in the right place.  Needs to be 6 full crank teeth ahead of the intake cam.