'01 Silver - The daily commute smile machine! (Turbo build)

[jvanzyl]

Lunchtime update.
Fitted additional better clamps, tidied up the hose pipes underneath so they're nicely tucked to and out of the way.

Continued trying to bleed the system.. still only getting heat under consistent revving.. no more air bubbles coming out after about 20 mins of running... might need another jolly up and down the hill.

Still getting a drippy leak from the oil drain on the turbo.. going to possibly have to live with it or remake the drain attachment with some kind of barb..

[Call the midlife!]

Lunchtime update.
Fitted additional better clamps, tidied up the hose pipes underneath so they're nicely tucked to and out of the way.

Continued trying to bleed the system.. still only getting heat under consistent revving.. no more air bubbles coming out after about 20 mins of running... might need another jolly up and down the hill.

Still getting a drippy leak from the oil drain on the turbo.. going to possibly have to live with it or remake the drain attachment with some kind of barb..

Is the pipe a good, snug fit? If it's ever so slightly oversized the clamp might be nipping it away from the drain and making a crease for oil to get out.

[jvanzyl]

Is the pipe a good, snug fit? If it's ever so slightly oversized the clamp might be nipping it away from the drain and making a crease for oil to get out.

Same size as the other end which isn't leaking.. I'm thinking of dropping the oil and adding a ridge onto the drain pipe. But that'll happen after the mapping I think.

[Carolyn]

Try a smear of Dirko Grey

[jvanzyl]

Try a smear of Dirko Grey

I like the sound of that... will try not to go over board.

[jvanzyl]

Right, summer wheels on and I made an attempt at a "light smear" of Dirko... the definition of "light" is debatable.

[Petrus]

I made an attempt at a "light smear" of Dirko... the definition of "light" is debatable.

well, it is a smear for sure     and can´t have it all, ´they´  say

[jvanzyl]

well, it is a smear for sure    and can´t have it all, ´they´  say

Well! It turns out my "smear" has worked! Great suggestion @Carolyn !


Nice and dry...

The only other leak remaining is this one that appears on the corner of the block by the sump.

I fitted all the rest of my clamps, and continued trying to get air out of system. Going to need more fuel I think and likely a drive up the hill..

I did some checking in my tyres ages.. they're all showing a 2015 date stamp?

Not sure if I'm looking at the right spot?

[Petrus]

I did some checking in my tyres ages.. they're all showing a 2015 date stamp?

Not sure if I'm looking at the right spot?

Yes.

[jvanzyl]

So tyres possibly need replacing.. good to know!

Put the front on and mid rear nappy... ready for a little jaunt...

[jvanzyl]

Took the car out for a slightly more spirited (slightly higher revs - nothing major, think it hit 3200 rpm) drive up and down the hill.
Still only get heat when driving the car - I'm honestly not worried about it as it'll clear itself eventually, I'm just keeping an eye on the coolant.

Car is in dire need of alignment (possibly due to coming off jack stands.. not sure). But the way I'm looking at it, I think it's pretty much ready for the mapping day! :-)

Apart from this - I'm looking at tyres.
Last time round I went with the Toyo Proxes TR1s and whilst there were cost benefits, particularly when I had a spate of punctures, I did regret not going for the AD08s.

This time round I've started looking at the AD08RS series but am a bit concerned at the handling in our wet and cold climate.. and now I'm considering the Fleva.

I'm honestly unlikely to get this thing on a track, and I'm keen to have really good grip in most weather conditions, and am now looking to have more power shortly.

Is the Fleva the next one down from the AD08RS or is there something else that has a stiffer side wall but better water and cold handling than the AD08RS?

[Alex Knight]

I wouldn't consider the Fleva at all.

AD08RS gets a bad rep, because it didn't move the game on from the AD08R or AD08, but it's honestly still a really great tyre. You'll not regret it.

[jvanzyl]

I wouldn't consider the Fleva at all.

AD08RS gets a bad rep, because it didn't move the game on from the AD08R or AD08, but it's honestly still a really great tyre. You'll not regret it.

Thanks Alex - my wife might occasionally drive the car and it could be in rainy weather, she's by no means a fast driver etc but I'm assuming that if I said no faster than 60 in rainy weather then all should be absolutely fine?

[Ardent]

@jvanzyl

If we lived closer I would lend you a set to try so you could judge for yourself.

[shnazzle]

I stick with my opinion that the AD08Rs are unfortunately just not great in cold and wet. I was slipping all over the place and that's just fact. Even with calm daily driving, I had to take care on corners when I just set out. So much so that I used to have a bit fun a drift out of our street when it was wet and all I needed to do was steer in a bit harder.

In warm wet, fine. In cold dry, fine. In warm dry...fkin epic.
It could also be the roads here? Busy daily-drive roads up here are slippery, poorly maintained and badly draining.

Never had that issue with the NS20s and certainly never with withe RainSports. I did push the NS20s quite hard in the summer and they grip absolutely more than plenty for public roads with good predictability. RainSports were a bit snappy, kind of like T1-Rs.

I always got the AD08s in the end because of how epic they were those 20 days a year in the summer hehehe

[Alex Knight]

Thanks Alex - my wife might occasionally drive the car and it could be in rainy weather, she's by no means a fast driver etc but I'm assuming that if I said no faster than 60 in rainy weather then all should be absolutely fine?

If it's driven normally (wet or dry), there will be zero issues with your wife.

If she's interested in a bit of spirited driving, but you're not confident of her abilities in the wet, go for Uniroyal rain sports.

What you are looking for, unfortunately is a compromise.
With tyres, you can't have your cake and eat it I'm afraid.

[inigopete]

I know Flevas don't get a lot of love on here, but I've got a set on mine and they're great in pretty much all conditions I've come across. I've never lost grip or aquaplaned even driving in some really horrible conditions, they're quiet and efficient.

However, I've only got the horrible cheap mis-matched set that the car came with to compare them to...

[jvanzyl]

Hi all- thanks very much for the input!
I shall consider these all over the next week or so.. they'll only get bought post mapping. Speaking of which..
Ventured out a bit further today and managed to score a bunch of new error codes!

Got my usual running too lean malarky,
But then got heater circuit malfunction, which was new.. filled up with fuel and got a substantial hiss from the fuel tank- like way more than usual.
Cleared the codes and then got a P0443 evaporative emission canister purge valve- circuit malfunction canister purge valve malfunction.

Now, a while back when testing the bigger injectors I remember getting substantial "clicking" noises from the engine bay.. so I'm wondering if I need to test my purge valve...

I'm also thinking that since this is going standalone and the O2 sensors and purge valve solenoid can all be done away with it might not be worth pursuing at all..

[jvanzyl]

Wow what a mental night..
This:



Led me through many posts on here and spyderchat which led me to finding this:





Which I guess created a short that lead to the evap solenoid not working.

I tested the solenoid with a power pack and got my clicking sound so I think it works, and put it back together.



I then remembered reading about some posts how there was a 7.5 amp EF12 fuse  that kept blowing. So I had a look:



And sure enough:



So I replaced it with the kind that glow if they are blown.. should make future diagnosis easier..



Decided to run the car and then test to see if there was any pressure build up.
Turned car off, popped the fuel filler flap and... oh no.. flap would not open..   

Started a variety of investigations..








Left arm nicely shredded, and getting no where I had another look at the lever in the front.. and at last!




No idea how it came out of its spot.. maybe with all my wiring I must have done something...no idea.


Best flipping view ever 



And to finish it all off there was no hiss of gas when I opened the fuel cap! Yay! Now I just have to put the interior back together and again.. but that's for another day!

[Ardent]

I know Flevas don't get a lot of love on here, but I've got a set on mine and they're great in pretty much all conditions I've come across. I've never lost grip or aquaplaned even driving in some really horrible conditions, they're quiet and efficient.

+1

[jvanzyl]

So I now have 2x lunchtimes left to get it ready..
Put the interior back together today and put it back on the lift.

Next time will be tightening up oil drain (again). And assessing for any further leaks.
I'll be fitting the 630 injectors on site on Saturday.

[jvanzyl]

RRR have bumped session to next weekend  so I've rebooked trailer for that.

Took it down to local garage to get alignment done- they came back to say everything was way out. Front inner and out tie rods completely rusted and unable to adjust, and apparently one cross threaded bolt on the rear trailing arms... so grand total for replacing all is coming to £500... 
Was not anticipating this...

[Carolyn]

Spray outer joints with plus gas.  Wire brush exposed threads.  Spray again.  Heat up till very hot with plumber's torch.  Crack loose.

[Call the midlife!]

RRR have bumped session to next weekend  so I've rebooked trailer for that.

Took it down to local garage to get alignment done- they came back to say everything was way out. Front inner and out tie rods completely rusted and unable to adjust, and apparently one cross threaded bolt on the rear trailing arms... so grand total for replacing all is coming to £500... 
Was not anticipating this...

Joe has another set of rear arms for sale £175 or so, might be worth a look.

[jvanzyl]

Spray outer joints with plus gas.  Wire brush exposed threads.  Spray again.  Heat up till very hot with plumber's torch.  Crack loose.

Thanks - this would be my approach if I had more time.. having looked at the costs of replacements and how much time I have over the next week it looks like it's best to just let this place sort it.. I've had a good run doing everything else myself, I've just reached the end of energy right now.

Joe has another set of rear arms for sale £175 or so, might be worth a look.

Cheers, yeah I don't think it's the arms.. just a bolt.

Current timeline is to get it back Monday or Tuesday next week and then putter about with it going in a straight line and finally rid myself of the air lock prior to dyno.