MR2 Roadster Owners Club

The Workshop => Performance Related => Topic started by: LeeUK on February 26, 2006, 21:12

Title: Drop links (End links)
Post by: LeeUK on February 26, 2006, 21:12
Where do I get a full set of reasonably priced good quality drop links.  I've seen a set on twos R us but they are quite expensive (roughly £150).

Cheers

Lee

Ps.  Broke my original rubber bushes on the drop links to sway bar connection (they're not all rubber, when you squeeze them with grips when trying to remove the nut to fit your new sway bars, gunk comes out and they deflate.... not good  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  )
Title: Re: Drop links (End links)
Post by: SteveJ on February 26, 2006, 22:34
Quote from: "LeeUK"Ps.  Broke my original rubber bushes on the drop links to sway bar connection (they're not all rubber, when you squeeze them with grips when trying to remove the nut to fit your new sway bars, gunk comes out and they deflate.... not good  s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  )

As a little tip, there is a hexagon in the end of the stud that you can use an allan key in to hold it whilst removing the nut.
Title: Re: Drop links (End links)
Post by: Tem on February 27, 2006, 05:20
Quote from: "LeeUK"Where do I get a full set of reasonably priced good quality drop links.  I've seen a set on twos R us but they are quite expensive (roughly £150).

I believe that is the reasonable priced good quality set. The stock ones from Toyota are more.

There has been few group buys in SC for these, about $100 for full set.
Title: Re: Drop links (End links)
Post by: LeeUK on February 28, 2006, 21:43
Quote from: "SteveJ"As a little tip, there is a hexagon in the end of the stud that you can use an allan key in to hold it whilst removing the nut.

I know, unfortunately the allen key was going to snap before the nut would budge.   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
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Post by: markiii on February 28, 2006, 22:22
are you after front or rear?
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Post by: LeeUK on March 1, 2006, 21:41
Both
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Post by: LeeUK on March 5, 2006, 17:25
I hate this stupid nut, I had another go today, rusted solid.  What kind of idiot decides it's a good idea to use an allen key on the end of a thread.  Unfortunately I'm not going to get the anti-roll bars on for Anglesey   s:evil: :evil: s:evil:  .

(http://static.flickr.com/46/108191833_213032114d.jpg)

I need some reasonably priced endlinks soon as I'm getting impatient with this.  Anyway I feel much better for sharing my woes.

I think I'll bite the bullit and buy from twosRus.
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Post by: Anonymous on March 5, 2006, 17:39
Lee m8

My rear sway bar link bolts where so rusted up that I ended up getting a new pair from mr T (£75) and cutting the old ones off with an angle grinder.

new ones when on and are smothered in grease in a bid to keep the rust monster away just in case I need to take them off again.
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Post by: LeeUK on March 5, 2006, 17:50
Just bought the uprated set from 2sRus, along with a side of injector O rings, for the whirrrboo!
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Post by: LeeUK on March 5, 2006, 17:50
Just bought the uprated set from 2sRus, along with a set of injector O rings, for the whirrrboo!
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Post by: Tem on March 5, 2006, 19:07
Quote from: "LeeUK"I hate this stupid nut, I had another go today, rusted solid.  What kind of idiot decides it's a good idea to use an allen key on the end of a thread.

Just wondering, how did you try to open them?

I just opened all four on my Mk1, which were more rusty than anything in my Mk3. I can't say they were easy, but I got them all off without breaking one.
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Post by: LeeUK on March 5, 2006, 19:16
Quote from: "Tem"
Quote from: "LeeUK"I hate this stupid nut, I had another go today, rusted solid.  What kind of idiot decides it's a good idea to use an allen key on the end of a thread.

Just wondering, how did you try to open them?

I just opened all four on my Mk1, which were more rusty than anything in my Mk3. I can't say they were easy, but I got them all off without breaking one.

With the 14mm spanner on the nut and the allen key on the end of the thread.  The allen key was bending and was also begining to tear the allen key slot so I stopped.  I shall remove the whole lot from the top of the drop links which shouldn't be as bad, as they are higher and less likely to attract moisture.  If not, I'll get the saw out.   s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:  

The opposite side came undone very easily, just having issues with the driver side nut.

Soon enough my car will handle very nicely I hope, especially with the other goodies.   s:? :? s:?
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Post by: Tem on March 5, 2006, 19:28
Quote from: "LeeUK"With the 14mm spanner on the nut and the allen key on the end of the thread.  The allen key was bending and was also begining to tear the allen key slot so I stopped.

Here's what worked for me..

1) Rust penetration CRC
2) Heating the nut with a torch
3) Holding the nut still (jammed a wrench on it against something)
4) Big hammer + impact driver + allen socket to loosen it
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Post by: LeeUK on March 5, 2006, 19:31
Cheers Tem,  I may give that a go if I get a chance before Anglesey (still go to wash the car   s:roll: :roll: s:roll:  ).  Don't know why I didn't think to heat the nut   s:oops: :oops: s:oops:  .