I have fitted my set of TTE anti-roll bars at long last. TBH they were a bit of a pig to fit as the drop links were rusted and not good! I therefore had to order a good quality set of chunky drop links from twos R us.
On top of this I also got some polyuthene bushes from Thor.
(http://static.flickr.com/34/122011295_885049e1a9.jpg)
After fitting them I can safely say it was well worth it! The car no longer rolls in corners, if anything it feel like it's leaning in! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: Driving the "2" has never been so much fun!
Fitment
I fitted the front bar first. I removed the luggage bin and plastic trim.
(http://static.flickr.com/34/122011296_46b88b4d53.jpg)
Then unbolted the droplinks either side.
(http://static.flickr.com/39/122011298_62a986d88b.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/36/122011299_8135992fc3.jpg)
Then unbolted the bar from the two chasis points using a little plusgas to ease it.
(http://static.flickr.com/35/122011300_b30d92ffdf.jpg)
A little fiddly removing the bar, but if you remain calm it does come out eventually.
Old and new:
(http://static.flickr.com/36/122011301_5c210f04f1.jpg)
Insert the new bar with drop links fitted the same way the old one came out.
(http://static.flickr.com/34/122023232_8efbc53545.jpg)
Bolt it together as before.
(http://static.flickr.com/35/122023233_5bfe8755b5.jpg)
Then the rear bar:
Get the car in the air, best to do this with ramps.
(http://static.flickr.com/1/122023235_e0a0dbe486.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/41/122023238_bb529b749d.jpg)
Unbolt as per front bar if you can, this is where I had problems. I cold undo the chasis bolts but could not undo the drop links due to the rusty allen key bolts. I recomend replacing stock the drop links as they are pants. To remove my stuborn drop links, I grinded them off of my suspension damper then managed to pull out the remaining stud by tightening the bolt and wrenching it out along with the half a stud left in there. Obviously having to carry out this procedure both sides.
(http://static.flickr.com/41/122023240_0cbfba7689.jpg)
The new bar, bushes and drop links:
(http://static.flickr.com/37/122023243_8f7e5407fc.jpg)
And fitted:
(http://static.flickr.com/35/122027646_e22726ae19.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/35/122027649_0037044eb7.jpg)
(http://static.flickr.com/34/122027652_f51a4829dd.jpg)
My instructions are rather basic, but tbh they should be enough to go on and fitment is commonsence but may require a little brute force.
F*** the instructions, how does it handle s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
nice dog BTW s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
INSAINE!!!!!! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
But get the drop links and bushes too.
i know where you got the bars, but post the source of the drop links and other bits too Lee
What do the bars sell for?
I assume you buy them from Mr. T?
Great info Lee... Seems like you are enjoying the mod s:D :D s:D
OUt of interest, what set up are your springs / dampers at present?
Sounds like it has really improved the poise of your car, but any change in characteristics of balance? - i suppose a track is needed ideally, but I have found previously that going too stiff on the front can create a bit of an understeerer on the the faster stuff.. I imagine the rear bar should balance it all out.
Cheers, Chris
PS - are there different rates of a/r bar available from TTE? or is is just the single 'sport' option they do. Has it obliterated ride comfort?
This is something I am considering along with the stiffening plates as mod number 1.
TTE bars are 3 point adjustable
Lee, do you drive on salted roads, or how come everything is so rusty? s:? :? s:?
Quote from: "Tem"Lee, do you drive on salted roads, or how come everything is so rusty? s:? :? s:?
they salt the hell out of roads in the UK in some desperate attempt to stop people from slipping, doesn't work of course, just kills the enviroment and destroys cars s:( :( s:(
as for the cost of TTE ARB's, SP will fit them for just under £300 but that wont include the strengthened droplinks or the new bushes
Quote from: "kanujunkie"i know where you got the bars, but post the source of the drop links and other bits too Lee
m http://www.twosrus.com (http://www.twosrus.com) m seem to list them (totally different company to twosrus.co.uk, btw)
I presume that's where Lee meant.
doh, saw the pretty pictures, missed the company name s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Being dumb s:? :? s:? but looking here they look identical pretty much - How is this setup benefiting overall - whats are they offering that stock doesnt and how.
(http://static.flickr.com/36/122011301_5c210f04f1.jpg)
its the physical strength in the bar, plus IIRC they are a different diameter and length to the stock ones, but thats hard to see in the pictures
They do look a bit fatter.
Dman you Lee for another good post s:wink: :wink: s:wink: Looks like I'll be having an accident or injury at work that wasn't my fault etc..... s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "kanujunkie"its the physical strength in the bar, plus IIRC they are a different diameter and length to the stock ones, but thats hard to see in the pictures
Yeah, they are thicker. And adjustable.
I'm also tempted to say the TTE bars are solid and the stocks are not. Don't quote me on that, just going on the feel of the two different bars.
Understeer is not a problem, the nose of the car bites in earlier and more predictably (bit grin factor!) meaning the car tends to oversteer ever so slightly more, but in a good controlled fun way.
As a note, it's worth looking at whiteline as they do a 4 point adjustable set including droplinks and bushes IIRC. See http://www.fensport.co.uk
whiteline also available fro Demon Tweeks, may or may not be cheaper
Quote from: "LeeUK"I'm also tempted to say the TTE bars are solid and the stocks are not. Don't quote me on that, just going on the feel of the two different bars.
I'd bet that the stocks are solid too, the extra thickness just makes a huge difference. And seems you used the center settings, which also makes it stiffer.
Quote from: "Tem"Quote from: "LeeUK"I'm also tempted to say the TTE bars are solid and the stocks are not. Don't quote me on that, just going on the feel of the two different bars.
I'd bet that the stocks are solid too, the extra thickness just makes a huge difference. And seems you used the center settings, which also makes it stiffer.
from what I know, chaps, the metal composition and the consequent resistance to torsional forces (twisting forces) decide how much the bar affects roll of the chassis during the weight transfer part of the cornering cycle. So... weight and thickness aren't necessarily as relevant as the torsional response of the bars.
Mine made quite a difference subjectively altho I put on TTE springs at the same time; the most noticeable effect was better turn-in than stock, next, a lessening the skittish tendency of the 2 on bumpy corners but this is no doubt both items working together. The bars definitely lessen the amount of roll from the stock bars, but the car still rolls more than most race spec coil-over/anti-sway rigs I've driven. The ability to adjust them is cool, (i'm about to change from middle settings today to lessen turn-in understeer) since you can respond to other changes you make to the suspension - shocks, springs and tyres being the biggies on our car.