I need a new 10" sub due to an accident a while ago with the old one s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I have narrowed it down to one I want but im a bit confused by the stats.
A) m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /3160.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3160.html) m
B) m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /3161.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3161.html) m
the difference is only a minor detail.....
a) Impedance/voice coils: Dual 2 ohm voice coil
b) Impedance/voice coils: Dual 4 ohm voice coil
So any ideas which I should get, I thought I needed 4 ohms, but is that half of 8 on the dual 4 or 2+2 on the dual 2 ?
Cheers,
Phil
Depends on what your amp is like. If your amp is 2 ohm stable, get the dual 4 ohm. If it's 1 ohm stable get the dual 2 ohm. If it can only do 4ohms, get the dual 2ohm.
I'd get the dual 2ohm so that if you upgrade to a 1ohm stable amp in the future (if you don't already have one) it'll belt out the bass.
Maybe I could approach this another way. What would be a good amp to go with one of those ?
Thanks
heres an idea any opinion on this ? m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /4471.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/4471.html) m
What's your budget?
dunno a few hundred quid ?
For the amp above it says the power is,
RMS Power (2 ohms) 175 watts X 2
For the speaker it says this,
10" Phoenix Gold Octane-ZR subwoofer
Power Handling: 300 watts RMS/600 peak
Impedance/voice coils: Dual 2 ohm voice coil
Am I looking at the right thing to drive it? "2 channel" amps to drive the 2 coils ?
What did you mean by "If it's 1 ohm stable"
*edit* Oh yeah where does a Cap come into things?*/edit*
Thanks for the help,
Phil
Amplifiers are rated according to the load they can drive. An amp that is 1 ohm stable can drive a 1 ohm sub. Amps driving 2 or 1ohm loads belt out a lot more bass than a 4 ohm amp.
A 1 or 2ohm stable amp can still drive a 4 Ohm load but it won't be as loud.
Yes you can use each channel of a 2 channel amp to drive each voice coil but you'd need to make sure that both inputs are the same i.e. dual mono.
What I'd suggest is running the 2 channel amp in bridged mode instead which is where both channels on the amp are combined to drive a single load.
The usual choice would be to get a class D mono amp that is 2ohm stable and drive a dual 4 ohm sub with it.
Or a 1ohm stable amp and drive a dual 2ohm sub.
Note: A two channel amp that is 2Ohm stable usually refers to it's stability in normal operation and if you bridge the amp it will be 4ohm stable and not 2ohm stable.
Another note : I'm still drunk from last night so sorry if my explanations are a bit sketchy..... s:? :? s:?
The cap is a bit of a mis-understanding.....
The Cap is supposed to smooth the battery voltage to give you better bass but it's just for show and doesn't really help. For further discussion have a read .....
m http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthre ... =capacitor (http://www.talkaudio.co.uk/vbb/showthread.php?t=162965&highlight=capacitor) m
Thats a relief, I thought you were discussing your BDSM life s:shock: :shock: s:shock: given the title...
So mono class D
m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... d/267.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/267.html) m
That's the kinda thing, but Sony doesn't have a particularly good SQ rep in car stereos at the moment (it's getting better...)
What about this.....
m http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/produc ... /3465.html (http://caraudiosecurity.com/shop/product/products_id/3465.html) m