Hi everyone, I cleaned my MAF sensor at the weekend & what a difference it made. There was nothing actually wrong with my car but after reading on this forum about cleaning the MAF I thought I would give it a go. My 2 now pulls better from lower down the rev range & also feels more eager, proper sports car stuff. I clocked up almost 50 miles on Sunday just driving around for the sake of it. s:D :D s:D
It only takes about 15 mins to clean the MAF and is well worth the effort. Its certainly something that i will continue to do whilst I own the mister2.
where and how,
haven't bought the old haynes manuel yet.
there is no haynes manual!
Don't worry though it's easy.
1/Open your engine lid.
2/ On the left hand side you will see a black plastic box , this has the airfilter inside. Running out of this towards the engine is a rubber hose.
On top of this you will see a small plastic box with a wiring loom, it's held on by two small cross head screws.
3/Undo these two screws and pull the sensor out of it's seating (you can unplug the wiring loom as well if you like)
3b/ Remove the rubber o-ring seal to prevent it from being damaged by the next stage.
4/ The sensor head looks like a plastic tube with a small metal bulb hanging out (almost like a light bulb filament, although thicker). If it is coated in black soot then this is what you need to clean.
5/ Take a can of plain ordinary carb cleaner (nothing else, NOT electrical contact cleaner, NOT wd40 etc) and spray the stuff liberally onto the metal bulb, the dirt and soot should easily blast away. DONT TOUCH THE SENSOR with anything.
6/ Let things dry off, refit the rubber o-ring and replace as above.
easy.
While your at it reset the ECU by unplugging the battery for 10mins. Then take it for a good drive varying the revs and engine load so the ECU can relearn.
Does it do anything? Well it may be psychological but most people notice an improvement. PErsonally she seemed a little more responsive but I did mine whilst gutting the precats so it could just of been that.
Sounds like easenders....
Clean your MAF aaaut
LOL - I thought exactly the same
My Maff was like a sewer before I ghave it a good clean s:D :D s:D
cheers for that, i may well do this.
for those with the ppe (which i hope to fit sometime in the next 6 months [depends on when we have enough for the group buy])
does the MAF stay in the same location etc, i presume its not removed as its required for the ecu.
It's still located in the engine bay, but in a new pipe that comes with the PPE. Don't worry, it all makes sense once you've seen an induction kit for the '2.
i so want my PPE, to go with my exhaust, i wanted it fitted before silverstone.
but fat chance of that happening.
by the way, are you and liz going up to silverstone on the 25th. and if so are you conveying, and can i join?
We are going up there, but as we're organising some of it we'll be leaving horrendously early. You're welcome to tag along, but I'd rather get the extra sleep if it were me. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
How often do your recon this needs doing?
Needs? Probably once every 18 months. Wants? I'd do it every month given a chance, two months at the most. It's only a 5 minute job, and if it gives you a bit of extra clout then it's well worth it.
Cheers,
Something to do at the weekend.
Just actually cleaned the MAF today as well as resetting the ECU and it has made a noticeable difference to the performance. It now pulls better in all gears as I thought there might have been somethnig wrong with the car as the performance seamed to be down a bit. I hasnt been don since I got the car 18 months ago. A really easy job.
Quote from: "simonp"NOT electrical contact cleaner
Might I ask why?
Quote from: "Moleshome"Quote from: "simonp"NOT electrical contact cleaner
Might I ask why?
Electrical contact cleaner contains a lubricant grease, which isn't good for the MAF
I used an aerosol brake cleaner which we have at work. It's kind on rubber and plastics too, but I did remove the rubber O ring just to be on the safe side.
Quote from: "Cappio"I used an aerosol brake cleaner which we have at work. It's kind on rubber and plastics too, but I did remove the rubber O ring just to be on the safe side.
AIUI using brake cleaner is the definite do not use because surprisingly brake cleaner contains an extremely light oil which is cleared in fractions of a second when the brakes are applied.
Quote from: "kanujunkie"Quote from: "Moleshome"Quote from: "simonp"NOT electrical contact cleaner
Might I ask why?
Electrical contact cleaner contains a lubricant grease, which isn't good for the MAF
Whilst I can't say definitively that's not true because some contact cleaners may contain a lubricant, I certainly don't believe that to be true for the majority. ITYF that any that do contain a lubricant will specifically be called a Contact Cleaner & Lubricant.
It depends on the product, we use Swarfega Stop Quick which dries without leaving an oily residue. Also Swarfega suggests that it's versatility means it can be used on carbs, contacts and ABS systems.
Click on the link & select degreasing & maintenance, then Swarfega Stop Quick.
w www.deb.co.uk/ukswarfega/ (http://www.deb.co.uk/ukswarfega/) w
Quote from: "Moleshome"Whilst I can't say definitively that's not true because some contact cleaners may contain a lubricant, I certainly don't believe that to be true for the majority. ITYF that any that do contain a lubricant will specifically be called a Contact Cleaner & Lubricant.
all the switch cleaner we have at work has lubricant in it, without the word lubricant in the title on the can just in the ingrediants bit, either way it proves that some do have lubes in them and as such you need to be careful
Take a clean glass surface and spray whatever you've got on that. If it's still clean after the spray, it should be fine. If you notice anything on the glass, don't use it on the MAF. s8) 8) s8)
That's why I use Swinn Carb cleaner on mine s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
yeah just spend £3 on some carb cleaner and you can't go wrong - why chance it on something else??
i used bardahl throttle body cleaner, good stuff, but remember to take off rubber O ring before you clean MAF
Does resetting the ECU actually do anything? I didn't know "ours" were that clever. Also having a Unichip fitted could this cause problems?
Quote from: "digby"Does resetting the ECU actually do anything? I didn't know "ours" were that clever. Also having a Unichip fitted could this cause problems?
No I have a Unichip and cleaning the MAF and resetting the stock ECU does nothing at all to the Unichip settings s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Hi
Did an MAF clean yesterday. The MAF hotwires were pretty clean anyway and I could detect little difference before / after. Possibly the last owner kept it cleaned. What I did notice was that the air temp bulb was dirty, so I gave this a quick blast of cleaner while I was at it.
What really did make a difference to the way the car was running was an ECU reset. The car has an induction mod (restricted elbow replaced) and is run on Shell V-Power. The ECU reset made a really noticable difference to both throttle response and power / torque all the way through the rev range. You can hear that the engine is now running a bit more advance than it was at lower speeds too.
I reckon the improvement is possibly the ignition controller allowing more advance after reset to take advantage of the V-Power. With the induction mod as well, the car is running at the top of its game. I was driving around Essex last night, roof down, roads quiet, moonlight filling the cabin and everything running as sweet as a nut. Perfect motoring moment.
Chris
In my search to find the source of the P0125 error code I had a look at this sensor.
I could see the wire filament clearly but at the end (where it turns back on itself) there is quite a big blob of black stuff. Is this what it should be like or does this blob need to be removed using the recommended cleaner?
Dave
Quote from: "skirmish"In my search to find the source of the P0125 error code I had a look at this sensor.
I could see the wire filament clearly but at the end (where it turns back on itself) there is quite a big blob of black stuff. Is this what it should be like or does this blob need to be removed using the recommended cleaner?
Dave
That blob is the air temperature sender and you will destroy it if you remove the blob bit! The air flow sensing wire is down inside the plastic pillar that stands out into the air stream. You can clean this by giving it a squirt of carb cleaner and letting it dry thoroughly. The "blob" can be cleaned in the same way, with a squirt of carb cleaner, it will come up shiny and amber in colour if I remember correctly.
Chris
I'll therefore definitely leave the blob in place! I'll get some carb cleaner though and give it all a good clean.
Thanks for the help.
Dave
Quote from: "simonp"there is no haynes manual!
Don't worry though it's easy.
1/Open your engine lid.
2/ On the left hand side you will see a black plastic box , this has the airfilter inside. Running out of this towards the engine is a rubber hose.
On top of this you will see a small plastic box with a wiring loom, it's held on by two small cross head screws.
3/Undo these two screws and pull the sensor out of it's seating (you can unplug the wiring loom as well if you like)
3b/ Remove the rubber o-ring seal to prevent it from being damaged by the next stage.
4/ The sensor head looks like a plastic tube with a small metal bulb hanging out (almost like a light bulb filament, although thicker). If it is coated in black soot then this is what you need to clean.
5/ Take a can of plain ordinary carb cleaner (nothing else, NOT electrical contact cleaner, NOT wd40 etc) and spray the stuff liberally onto the metal bulb, the dirt and soot should easily blast away. DONT TOUCH THE SENSOR with anything.
6/ Let things dry off, refit the rubber o-ring and replace as above.
easy.
While your at it reset the ECU by unplugging the battery for 10mins. Then take it for a good drive varying the revs and engine load so the ECU can relearn.
Does it do anything? Well it may be psychological but most people notice an improvement. PErsonally she seemed a little more responsive but I did mine whilst gutting the precats so it could just of been that.
EXCELLENT s:D :D s:D was looking for something like this as I can't open the spyderchat link a few people have put up
I did this today following the instructions. My MAF sensor was very clean, I gave it a squirt of carb cleaner but there really was no dirt to remove. I purchased a new air filter as it seemed worth doing at the same time.
I expected mine to be pretty clean as its got FTSH and had a main service 5000 miles ago at Toyota. The air filter was far too dirty to have been changed by Toyota (Luton) which is really disappointing. Interestingly I am having discussions with Steven Eagle currently as when I purchased a service plan I was charged for 3 pollen filters and it was then discovered my car did not have a pollen filter. The lady I purchased from said if I needed anything doing in the future they would do me a deal which I accepted. When I tried getting them to honour this they denied ever agreeing which is poor. I was though offered to have the air filter changed at the next service, I declined saying surely it would have been changed as per Toyotas recommendations so should not need changing at the minor service. I asked them to change the gearbox oil for me but never heard back as promised. Anyway I digress so apologies!!!
I really struggled to remove the air filter housing but worked it out in the end. The circular clip that holds the main air tube to the airbox had me extremely baffled and drove me mad (putting it back).
Disconnected the battery for 20 minutes, put everything back together and then went for a really brisk drive. Not sure if it drove any better but it felt strong. Interestingly the tick-over settled at 1500rpm whenever I stopped which worried me in case I had disturbed anything but it would go back to 900rpm if left for 5 seconds. I am going to take it out again shortly to see how it drives and check the tickover.
Thanks for the great write up as it pushed me to change my air filter and I have peace of mind that my MAF is clean.
Yes it feels better now, cheers.
Satisfying isn't it
It certainly is, not since my late teens have I worked so much on a car and I have enjoyed every minute of it.
Also highlighted to me how little you get for so much from Toyota, nearly £400 for a service that did not even include a air filter replacement!! It cost me £11.20 so would have cost them maybe £5.60.
Seems that other than an engine oil change you just get lots of visual inspections (which didn't pick up the poor condition of my radiator) and these have almost zero value.
With the above and my own experiences of Toyota servicing I am now of the opinion that Toyota service is not what should be expected.
Before I got my 2 in June 2011 enquired at my local Mr T as to service costs and was offered a monthly plan that seemed good value at just under £10 per month for a three year contract after my first service.
So, in June 2011 I paid £150 for an intermediate service.
In May 2012, having paid around £110 on my plan the car was due a full service.
First time around they did another intermediate!
I complained and they " explained" that a full service had been done but the mechanic ticked the wrong boxes!
They then " again" then did the " extras" for a full service.
2013 an intermediate service that cost around £ 120 on my monthly plan.
2014, the last of my pre paid services, should have been a full service which I asked for when I left my carat the garage.
When collected an intermediate had been done.
Complaint then a full service was done!
I queried my experiences with the service manager and asked why, over four annual services the plugs and air filter had not been changed.
The explanation was that customers with low mileage between services don' t like to pay the " extra cost" for such items and so they are not renewed on a time basis but when they show deterioration! That they should have been included in my plan he seemed to overlook!
I had changed the plugs myself during my ownership.
I paid extra for coolant change and similarly for brake fluid change during this period.
After the coolant change I found the radiator to be leaking but this was almost six months after the coolant change as my 2 hibernates in winter.
When I went back to the garage to buy some coolant, after changing the radiator,
I spoke to the Service Manager about this and he apologised and explained that such a check was not part of the service schedule. This on a 10 year old car!
This year I have opted to do my own " service".
Toyota oil from GSP on here together with filter and sump plug washer ( Bronze service kit) £34.99.
Mr T ' s price £81.02.
Finally! This week, when draining the sump after my intermediate and full service last year by Mr T I found that there was
NO SUMP PLUG WASHER fitted!
In short I have proved to my satisfaction that there is little to be had from the knowledge that a 2 has been regularly serviced by
MrT!
Be fair, you do get to wait in a comfortable lounge, as much coffee and biscuits as you want, free tv and wifi, newspapers and magazines and a car valet plus the stamp in the book s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I think you've reached the right conclusion. I'm facing this dilemma now with the Golf. Only ever had diesels as company cars so not into them service wise. The modern turbo ones are quite complex but Haynes manual in the post.
My experience with a Mr T service is change the oil and filter and tick a lot of check boxes that are covered by the MOT anyway. No plug, filter or fluid changes.
Item 1: I will miss most of that, coffee and biscuits do appear from time to time now!
Item 2: The diesel engine was always the one for longevity so there must be a good margin for a little error due to any lack of know how.
Even with our wonderful forum and all the "How To's" I would like a real book!
Item 3: But did you get a sump plug washer?
Surprised at the difference in prices from 1 Mr T to another.
5l oil, oil filter, air filter, sum washer. £41.27 all in. Bought Sat just gone.
That seems a very good price. They can't all be bad (value that is).
Done this last weekend but only got driving it tonight
What a difference s:) :) s:) idles at 900rpm instead of 1500 AND revs smoother and quicker and with no hesitation
Cheers folks
s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
My friends yaris d4d came out of the local dealer from a service with the oil not even touching the bottom of the dip stick!!
It's not just Toyota, my friends mini came from BMW Croydon with the oil filter housing loose and oil everywhere, they offered to replace the filter, they refused potential damage down the line, exact thing happened with vw and another friend of mine.
HATE the dealers.
I rang Toyota today for a part for a yaris, small vacuum valve for the egr control, it fits in your hand and there are two if them, they want £275 + vat!!!!!
Went to Snows Toyota in Plymouth asked spivey salesman were the parts dept was and he directed me to a seat in reception while he rung someone from parts to come down (I only wanted to buy a couple of sump plug washers in preparation for oil and filter change) sat there for 30 mins and no one turned up. Walked over to spivey sales persons desk and he said "oh has no one come down yet" ? Despite me being sat in his full view for the whole time. I said " spookily no they haven't, but it's ok I really enjoyed wasting 30 mins of my time staring at your wall" I then left and bought 10 online for £2
Need to clean my maf sensor this weekend, can anyone tell me if this is the stuff....
m http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel ... aner-500ml (http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml) m
If not could one of you send me a link please s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "amz91"Need to clean my maf sensor this weekend, can anyone tell me if this is the stuff....
m http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel ... aner-500ml (http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml) m
If not could one of you send me a link please s:) :) s:)
That'd be fine!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Quote from: "amz91"Need to clean my maf sensor this weekend, can anyone tell me if this is the stuff....
m http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel ... aner-500ml (http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml) m
If not could one of you send me a link please s:) :) s:)
That'd be fine!
Thank you :-) :-) :-)
Quote from: "amz91"Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Quote from: "amz91"Need to clean my maf sensor this weekend, can anyone tell me if this is the stuff....
m http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel ... aner-500ml (http://www.halfords.com/motoring-travel/engine-oils-fluids/fuel-oil-additives/wynns-fuel-injection-carburettor-cleaner-500ml) m
If not could one of you send me a link please s:) :) s:)
That'd be fine!
Thank you :-) :-) :-)
That's what I used too, was a good job
Going to give this ago tmora, might seem a stranger question but can your maf sensor cause a burning smell?
I had the engine light come on a while ago and it was the lamba sensor I've had that done then recently the light came on again with the car feeling sluggish I had the light cleared and was advised to clean the maf sensor (light got cleared on Tuesday still hasn't come back on but still a smell and feels sluggish my fault code was P0171 system too lean bank 1)
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/04/11/ac10438b27a34304bd0d6c78890aa8e3.jpg)
Do I clean this connection too?
Nope, that's just the connector plug