Firstly as we all know about the size of the bins in the back are very small so first thing is to buy a small enogth amp to fit in the bins with little modifcation to them. I have used Gensis Profiles and some small alpine's and they seem to fit fine.
What you will need:
12mm MDF board
4 Awg Power cable
Gold plated + power terminal
In line fuse (water prof)
Distrobution block (fused)
8 Awg power cable
RCA's 3 meter lengths * 2 sets
Crimpers and ring connectors
Soldering iron
Silicon sealent
a hand full of screws
a coat hanger and WD40
and half a brain ! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
First is to run the power cable from the battery to the passenger side of the rear bins. This is dont by using a gromet which is already there. you can find the gromet by removing the trim on the passenger side bins (at the rear right hand side simply unclips) As shown in the picture:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0003.jpg)
You then need to get a coat wire and tape the end of the power cable to the end of the coat hanger (take off burrs to advoid rips in the gromet) then spray some WD40 on the end and push the power cable through the top of the gromet like shown above. Push it as far as it will go and it should pop out like so in the engine bay look down behind the battery and you should see this:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0002.jpg)
Then cut of the end of the power cable and pull the coat hanger back throught (without moving the cable) then pull a sufficient amount of power cable throught to get to the battery and look neat!
Next is to put the inline fuse holder, I found the best place to put this is on the thread of the battery case as it looks good and is away from the engine's main heat! Simply strip back the wire and tighten up the nuts on th fuse holder *BUT DONT PUT THE FUSE IN* then cut a small peice of wire to connect to the other side and conect this to the gold + power terminal which bolts on to the old terminal (This is for looks mainly tho s8) 8) s8) ). Then screw up the fuse holder so no moisture can get in. Heres how it should look:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0001.jpg)
Next is to then make the amp safe in the back - make a mouning plate out of MDF and make sure the amp does not move, I have changed my install from the writting of this report but you can make a box shape out of MDF and then fit the amp to the inside of the box then flip it upside down and place in the void of the passenger side bin. Then you can screw the Distribution block onto the MDF like so:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0004.jpg)
Then wire up a small piece of 4 Awg power cable to feed the amp and then there's a spare +ve in the back in case you deside to add anything else. DO NOT INSERT THE FUSES
Next is to wire up the amp you can take the -ve from the seat belt fixing behing the trim on the passengers side and run some 4 Awg to the amp. Use a space or ring terminal for this conection. Next is to put ring conectors on the power cable +ve from the distroubtiuon block and -ve from the seat belt and some normal muiltcore wire as well but leave it on the roll. Next is to screw these on the amp. next from the speakers you should extend the cable going from the headunit and feed it under the carpet and to the bin, and then ring connector them up and screw them into position like shown:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0006.jpg)
Then you run RCA's down the passenger side of the scuff plate, I ran 4 sets but you can run as many as you like depending on how many channels you have - I have 2 rear and back and a sub out + some for screen use s8) 8) s8) . once these are ran they can be connected as shown, Oh and run the multi core down there as well this is the remote cable.
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0005.jpg)
Then connect up front as however you head unit is configured the '02 sony one has 2 RCA out so you can run front and backs, plug them in white to white red to red, then on the back of the headunit there is a Remo, this is remote and turns the relay on inside the amp, conect this up using a bullet conector, plug that in and you should get somthing not as many blue lead as this :
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0008.jpg)
After that turn all your gains down to 0 and then power it up place the fuses in everywhere, there should be 2 in total. Then a light should appear on the amp nornally green and then you can set up your system, I shall post " how to set up your system" later tho, but for now turn the gains up a little but no more than half way s:wink: :wink: s:wink: you should then have this and lots of loud crystal clear music:
(http://www.mr2-photos.co.uk/images/db_car/dscf0007.jpg)
Thanks to Craig for hosting the pictures s:wink: :wink: s:wink: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
hope this helps people s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
any questions just post on this thread s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Hey mate,
Did you screw the MDF to the car or is it just shaped so it won't move?
tight fit and the weigth of the amp also keeps it down, but my new install has a brace from the chassis to stop the MDF and glassfiber moving
Quote from: "Buster"tight fit and the weigth of the amp also keeps it down, but my new install has a brace from the chassis to stop the MDF and glassfiber moving
I know it's a bit of a long shot, but does anyone have the pictures that go with this item?
Quoteyou should extend the cable going from the headunit and feed it under the carpet and to the bin
Ok, the way Buster is doing it, it's like the following scheme:
Sound goes from stock HU to speakers.
This is already passing through the stock HU Amp.
If you extend the cable from the HU to the AMP, then you get an already amp'ed signal.
The signal should go clear directly from the HU to the amp, without stock amp in the way.
I was wondering, since the stock HU does not have Preouts, will it damage the amp, if the signal comes already from the stock HU's amp?
Quote from: "SimosSpyder"....I was wondering, since the stock HU does not have Preouts, will it damage the amp, if the signal comes already from the stock HU's amp?
You need to buy an amp that can take speaker connections (high level) as the input. Putting an already amped signal into the usual RCA input connections will cause problems.
For example....
m http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25 ... index.html (http://www.pioneer.co.uk/uk/products/25/29/182/PRS-D200/index.html) m
See Features.....Speaker line input
Thanks a lot!
This is was what I was hopping to hear!
Is it possible to get the pictures working again?
i'm gonna have to say no s:( :( s:( , buster is no longer around s:( :( s:( and i'm guessing the photo's have been deleted off his server. Perhaps you would like to create a new guide for us that we can host on ROCs server this time s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
looking at teh links they were either hosted for him on Craig or Kris servers, so they may still have them?
I will do a guide for the full install however it is going to be spring before anything happens at this rate!
going to put in:
DLS A5
DLS Ultimate UP6s
DLS MW10
Alpine 7998
plus some perspex, leds fans etc
sounds good, guess we'll have to wait and see the piccies
is heat a big issue off larger amps, and if so, how hot can they get, and what damage would it do?
your fine Rich, i have a 500W Monobloc amp under my bin, its big enough to have to chop the bin floor down so that it would fit and i've never had an issue
I don't know exactly what I'm getting yet,, but mine goes into Skidz in Falkirk on Monday to get a couple of 10" Kenwoods subs and 2 amps fitted.. one amp for the subs the other will power uprated door speakers.. will post more details as when.. and will let you know how it goes if thats helpfull.
Quote from: "rtbiscuit"is heat a big issue off larger amps, and if so, how hot can they get, and what damage would it do?
It depends on the actually Amp as different classes etc let off different amounts of heat.
Guys, can u view the picutures above? would apreciate if it could b upload again
unfortunately Buster dissapeared 3 years ago
so we don't have them
Long shot, but Buster credits Craig for hosting the pictures ... he may still have them kicking around.
This topic looks like it would be useful but without the pictures, Buster's explanation is hard to understand.
I'm thinking of putting an amp in the storage bins but I'm wondering how the wiring is supposed to work if one is adding an amp to an already existing installation.
I gather one is to run RCAs from the HU to the amp. No problem. It's the rest of the wiring I have trouble understanding. Are you to run speaker wire from the amp in the bins to the speakers in the doors? How?
And does the power come off of the loom going to the head unit or do you get it directly from the battery, as Buster seems to suggest?
I haven't even bought an amp yet, but I like to know what I'm in for. s:) :) s:)
when I did it,
rca cables from HU to amp
speajer cables back more or less the same way up berhind teh dash and through teh grommets into teh door. It's painful but doable.
power and ground through the bins from teh battery
Yep that's pretty much it Ernie. My install is the same - getting (fused) power direct from the battery, and then running rcas and speaker cable from the amp to the HU up front..
Did you run the cables under the carpet?
If so, how did you get them under there?
If not, where did you run them?
Sorry for the noob questions.
under teh plastic on teh sills, ubder teh plastic where teh seatbelt emerges and straight into teh bin
from head unit the sills, yes under the carpet
This is exactly how I did it, but from memory I ran the cables from head unit to sills in or around the glove box cavity (not sure this is the correct terminology) and then down the trunking underneath the A pillar by the door hinge.
Hi All
I dont suppose anyone has any pics on how to do this? (the pics are not showing anymore, links gone i expect)
I have bought an Alpine SWD-1600 and am attempting to fit it but just need some advice on where to run the speaker cables to the HU.
I am placing the sub in the rear passenger side bin as it sits nicely and I can use the straps in there to hold it in place (not screwing it down as i may want remove for storage purposes) along with a bit of sticky back velcro I think.
Should I try to run the speaker connections doen the centre under the handbrake etc or down / under the passenger side sill?
Any advice is good s:) :) s:)
(PS: sorry mods if this is covered elsewhere, did a search but no joy)
side sill is where i run all mine, there is a panel in the passenger foot well that you can run the cables behind, and then up in to the centre behind the stereo. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Ta very much s:) :) s:) ...had a quick look....all unclips....should be easy s:) :) s:)
Thanks again
Got a question about the proper order in which to connect things.
I assume that one removes the negative lead from the battery before beginning.
Then what? Is this the order?
1) Amp to ground on metal body of car
2) Fused power lead from amp to positive terminal on battery
3) Ignition lead to ignition lead behind head unit
4) Reconnect negative lead to battery.
Is this right?
not sure, i just disconnect the neagative, fit it all together, redo the negative.
but then mines not working at the mo! s:roll: :roll: s:roll: its currently in the garage awaiting a re install s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
How does the grommet on the firewall come out? Can't seem to get it out.
And which one do you use (there are two)?
Whichever is most convinient for the cable run. Presumably the battery side?
Istr making a small hole in it and pulling something like a string through first.
After 1 wire is in you can tape onto that and pull the next. My teins also go through these gromets. So they, and my sils, are very choc a bloc with cables.
I solved it by wedging the power cable along one side of the grommet. It seals nearly perfectly and is probably as good as it would be with a hole in it.
Now I'm just about to give up on getting speaker wire through the door grommet. Even if I get it through, I can't figure out how on earth I could reach the area where the wire comes into the car. Any ideas?
Quote from: "Ernie Ball"I solved it by wedging the power cable along one side of the grommet. It seals nearly perfectly and is probably as good as it would be with a hole in it.
You mean between the grommet and the bodywork? I wouldn't do that - if the metal eats through the power cable you'll have some nice sparks..
Quote from: "aaronjb"Quote from: "Ernie Ball"I solved it by wedging the power cable along one side of the grommet. It seals nearly perfectly and is probably as good as it would be with a hole in it.
You mean between the grommet and the bodywork? I wouldn't do that - if the metal eats through the power cable you'll have some nice sparks..
OK. So would you put a hole in the grommet?
Yep - poke a hole in the grommet with a crosshead screwdriver (that can't damage the existing wires), then poke the wire through the hole..
Tip courtesy of Stu, by the way, since that's his method really s:) :) s:)
Sage advice, as always, Aaron. Thanks for saving me from myself. I've now put it through a hole in the grommet. No worries.
I've given up on getting speaker wire to the doors. I understand the coathanger trick and pushing the wire from the door into the car, but I can't for the life of me figure out how it can work. Even if I could get hanger and wire through the long rubber grommet (which I can't), I can't figure out where or how to pick up the wire from inside the car. This is on the left-side door. I haven't even tried the right side.
So I'm just going to put the speaker wires under the carpet to connect them to the leads behind the head unit that run out to the doors. I'm not happy about hooking my amp up to such cheap/thin wire, but I don't see any alternative. Am I going to regret this? Is the amp (80w RMS x 2 into 4 Ohm, I believe) going to be too much for those thin wires?
Any other suggestions?
By the way, I've abandoned plans to put the amp in the bin and am now attempting to put it under the passenger seat. I think it's small enough.
I'm going to take another stab at running wires through the doors today. Can anyone give me more detail about how they did this?
come on Steve, its not hard to get the wires through, but you do need to really shove your hand up behind the dash, also the length of coat hanger wire needs the tip of it folded over to stop it snagging on the rubber folds. As for laying wire under the carpet, well thats not going to do any good as feet will damage the cable over time. Plus connecting into the old wireing may overload the stock stuff, it was never designed for amplified signals and you may have problems.
To help get the speaker wires through the door gromet I recomend putting a bit of washing up liquid on the wires so they can slip through easier.
My friend did mine and in less than 30 mins using this method and a small screw driver.
Thanks, guys. The deed is now done. I can see why it seems like getting the wires through the doors is not so hard . . . after I did the second one. The second one was a breeze and took about 5 minutes.
But the first one, for whatever reason was a complete bear. Almost as hard as getting it through was getting the coat hanger back out afterwards!
A couple of tips for anyone attempting this:
I found it was easiest if you removed the woofer from the door and also removed both ends of the rubber grommet from the door and car body respectively. Rather than using a bent coat hanger, I found that cutting a perfectly straight 8 or 9-inch piece from the middle of a coat hanger was best. No need to bend the top over, just tape the wire to the end and work it through. I didn't use dishwashing liquid or any lubricant, but it might've made the job easier. Once you get it through, work it into the body-side hole that the grommet came out of. In order to access it, you'll need to have the kick panel on the floor out. Doing this involves removing the sill plastics and then hand undoing the one plastic bolt keeping the kick panel in. Work the wire down and you should see it coming out of a hole in the space under the kick panel. From there you can route it either behind the dash or under the sill.
Have now got the amp (Blaupunkt TSA 280 minus the ridiculous plastic housing it comes with) mounted under the passenger seat. This is a great place for it. The amp is small enough that it doesn't impede movement of the seat. And it doesn't take up precious storage-bin space. Now, if it were an expensive amp, I'd worry about it getting tons of dust in there, but it wasn't expensive and having the wiring means it's easily replaced if need be.
Power came in through the upper battery-side grommet in the firewall, under the bin plastics, down the centre console and out through the hole in the carpet where the right rear bolt for the passenger seat goes in. Ground went through that same hole and got bolted to a metal part in the console.
Speaker wires went through the doors, down the centre tunnel and out a small slit I made in the carpet just behind the front right bolt hole for the seat. RCA and remote lead up through that same hole (I know people say make the RCA leads and the speaker leads go different ways, but I didn't have a whole lot of choice given the placement of the amp). There's no danger that anyone will tread on them or that the seat will crush them.
Also installed the bluetooth unit for the Alpine iDA-X001 head unit. Seems to work as advertised with my Nokia 6288.
Anyway, thanks for the help and advice.
Is anyone able to post a picture of the location the +'ve cable comes through the grommet?
If you like, drop me a PM and i can host the images s:) :) s:)
G
doubt theres 2 the same, its where ever you decide to put it through, either through one of the 2 exsisting gromets at a convienient place or make a new hole with a new gromet in the hole.
Quote from: "kanujunkie"doubt theres 2 the same, its where ever you decide to put it through, either through one of the 2 exsisting gromets at a convienient place or make a new hole with a new gromet in the hole.
I'll have a butchers at the weekend then s:) :) s:)
If you like (and if someone can edit the original post) i can take + host pictures of my progress so they can be re-added to the original post?
G
go for it
Pics:
The grommet you're aiming for looknig through the engine bay (easier if you unbolt the battery):
(http://www.freewebs.com/gjgrafix2/mr2wiring01.jpg)
From the inside, screwdriver poking the hole:
(http://www.freewebs.com/gjgrafix2/mr2wiring02.jpg)
Lots of fairy liquid later, and the cable is through:
(http://www.freewebs.com/gjgrafix2/mr2wiring03.jpg)
Running speaker cable to the drivers side (white cable):
(http://www.freewebs.com/gjgrafix2/mr2wiring04.jpg)
Temporarily amped up the stock speakers until my new ones arrive:
(http://www.freewebs.com/gjgrafix2/mr2wiring05.jpg)
Just one point, make sure the drain holes (see other threads) are clear before you install any expensive electrical goodies in the bins, because if they are not chances are they'll get wet. When I bought it, my car had a very nice 6 disc CD changer in the bin which was completely dead for this reason.