s:cry: :cry: s:cry: Oh dear, to put it mildly...
Symptoms so far, Since bought privately in September 06 the oil consumption has been a little over what you'd call normal - judging by some of the articles on here, I tried magnatec before I found this website, now use mobil 1.
Then - Friday 16th March, couple of mishaps accelerating in 2nd gear on way home from work, a slight delay before anything happened after I'd put my foot down.
Saturday 17th March, on a 16 mile drive I started to notice that the car really just didn't want to accelerate anywhere throughout the gears, after around 3000 rpm - the engine got louder when I put my foot down and made a clicking sound somewhat like it was being restricted. I checked the oil and it was fairly low, like about 1mm above the L on the dip-stick... yeah I know, I should never have let that happen, but I'm getting married in a couple of weeks and have neglected my poor car.
Yesterday (Sunday 18th) I topped up the oil and when I started up it seemed fine. It'll rev OK in neutral. I took it for a drive, which turned out to be very short as when I tried to accelerate now I got big clouds of blue-ish smoke which really made me cringe.
From reading several articles on here I'm gueesing the precats have gone and fouled up everything they possibly could.
I limped to the nearest garage (NOT Mr T) I could this morning along with as much info about precat failure and other peoples problems as I could get off here.
s:?: :?: s:?: Anyone got any words of wisdom/encouragement to make me feel better about my poorly 2? Or is it all doom and gloom??? (Don't worry I can take the bad news if that's all you've got for me, it's all I'm expecting)
Will update when I hear from the garage...
s:( :( s:(
Time to start looking for a 2nd hand engine, I fear.
s:( :( s:(
Cheers! s:cry: :cry: s:cry: guessing as much...
how's the best way to go about that? I may as well start now as wait for the garage to tell me.
I've borrowed my mum's Pug 106 1.1 Zest to get me to work and it accelerates almost as quick as my 2 at the moment, without the blue smoke. The brakes on it are like 6" sponges though, nothing happens 'til the last inch which is quite scary. Hope nothing runs out in front of me.
Quote from: "Gav1980"Anyone got any words of wisdom/encouragement to make me feel better
Used engines are fairly cheap...
I'm sorry, but that's the best I can come up with. s:? :? s:?
I just got the phone call from the garage. He said one of the precats has disintegrated and got lodged in the main cat. He's fairly confident the engine isn't damaged (This is good news if he's correct - but do you think it's actually possible I've escaped engine damage?) s:? :? s:?
He's going to get back to me on a price for gutting the existing precats and fitting a new/second-hand main cat... How much should I pay for this without getting ripped off?
Anyone know where I can get a main cat cheap or recommend an alternative to the original? (do these have another name that I can search for? I'm not overly mechanically minded sorry, can understand stuff but don't have the facilities/time/ability to do anything about it)
Thanks for the encouragement so far!!!
It's possible you got lucky, but you'll never know until it's too late (big oil consumption is almost always a sign of damage, though).
You should be able to find a main cat from a breaker's yard if you're lucky, or maybe a member on here who has put a de-cat pipe in place could have one spare: Check the sales sections. As far as an alternative goes, you could always buy any 200 cell cat and get a pipe fabricated for it so that it sits in instead of the stock one, but I'm not sure this would be any cheaper.
Quote from: "Gav1980"I just got the phone call from the garage. He said one of the precats has disintegrated and got lodged in the main cat. He's fairly confident the engine isn't damaged (This is good news if he's correct - but do you think it's actually possible I've escaped engine damage?) s:? :? s:?
Lets hope you got lucky. s8) 8) s8)
But TBH, I don't think so. It doesn't happen so that a big piece just falls off and gets stuck. It starts by smaller pieces flying off and into the intake and that's what kills the engine. After it breaks off enough, bigger chunks will fall off and eventually block the main cat.
I drove for 1000km with blocked cat on a healthy engine. It feels like you have massive torque till 4000rpm or so, more than stock, but then it dies totally. No loss of oil or smoke though, nor any strange sounds. They all point to scraped cylinder walls I'm afraid. s:? :? s:?
But if the main cat got blocked, you'll need a new one anyway, so might as well start with it and hope for the best. s8) 8) s8)
I hope I got lucky too! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'll go with the main cat and gutting the pre-cats for now and hope for the best... Any idea's on price I should be paying for this???
But, if it continues to use lots of oil I guess the cylinder walls are scraped. Can't I then just get them fixed, re-lined or something??? or is it def a new engine job???
Thanks again for your help so far.
Toyota tend to replace the short block rather than the whole engine but I don't think you'll have any joy getting part of an engine for much less than a whole one.
Simon
Hi Gav,
Sorry to hear your troubles....
You don't mention the age of the car or mileage or where it's been serviced.
You "might" be able to go to Mr T if its under 5 years old and fully serviced, they have look favorably on poor owners in the past.
Just a thought, but obviously not knowing the age or service history, it's only a possible suggestion.
As the other have said, the fact that the car is eating oil would suggest you have suffered from the oval bore syndrome, thus killing the precats and then the main cat. Therefore I would suspect you need quite a few parts or new engine to be on your way again, the only good news is Mr T has exactly the right list of parts you need, the bad news is, the charges if you paid yourself add up to about s:shock: :shock: s:shock: £8k s:shock: :shock: s:shock: .
Hope you get things sorted.
Regards
Darren J
Quote from: "Gav1980"But, if it continues to use lots of oil I guess the cylinder walls are scraped. Can't I then just get them fixed, re-lined or something??? or is it def a new engine job???
Sure you can, it's just cheaper to buy a new engine. s;) ;) s;)
It's not just the cylinder walls that get damaged. The precat material makes it past the pistons and into the oil and then it pretty much "ports" every path where the oil goes to. s:? :? s:?
Thanks guys!
It's 2001 Y, (sure it says that in my signature). 38000miles, no service history, service book and owner's manual 'lost' by previous owner apparently - silly of me to buy a car with no history I know! (where can I get an owner's manual by the way?)
So, as you can see, Mr T wouldn't look too kindly on me...
Mr T quoted my garage £630 + VAT for a new main (underfloor) cat. s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
The garage has found a new one for £447 + VAT. Ouch! s:( :( s:(
I'm getting married in two weeks and can't afford those prices so have done web search for breakers... Found a few, best one so far is 2002 34,000 miles for £135 + VAT, delivered. Any advice on buying from breakers as I've never done it before?
Just one more thing before i buy, in searching I saw ceramic ones and steel ones, which is it I need for mine? anyone know the correct part number? s:? :? s:?
Cheers
A tad expensive.....
You could get a Hi-Flow cat from PPE for cheaper...
Linky to PPE (http://www.ppeengineering.com/mrsexhaust.htm)
Hi mate
Sorry to hear your bad news. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
I have also suffered pre cat damage, but i think i am one of the lucky ones and my car is still running happely. it uses more oil,but still within Toyotas limits aparently.
My simptoms were exactly as you describe.
I gutted the remaining pre cat, blew the whole manafold section out with a high pressure line and replaced the main cat (was lucky someone was braking a car on ebay and only wanted £100)
The whole job only took about 2 hours and i'm a right numpty s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Just another side of the story to try and cheer you up s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "Gav1980"where can I get an owner's manual by the way?)
I have one for sale, see here: m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... highlight= (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14608&highlight=) m
minus service history book though, but all else is there.
Richie.
PS with regards to your problems, it is my opinion that the oil usage on your car occurred before the precats failed and was probably the cause of their degradation. I therefore think the damage has been done to your engine but the replacement of the main cat and gutting the precats should restore power allbeit there will probably be heavy oil use and eventual big end damage so i would suggest (if you can afford it) to replace the engine now rather than having to replace it and another cat in a month or 2.
Hope thats some help to you.
Sorry to hear the bad news mate, one of mine went on boxing day, dosen't seem to be using too much oil now, although certainly more than before.
When I was looking for a second hand cat, there were two people on here trying to sell me theirs. One was enid_b (I bought his one), but I think it was Leon (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/profile.php?mode=viewprofile&u=1847) who was also trying to sell me his. might be worth PMing him.
Hope you get it sorted at not too much expense
Graeme
im sure leons is sold.
Sorry to hear your problems Gav - from a fellow NOrthwicher, when you get it fixed, you'll have to join us on a NW meet.
Sorry to be the beared of bad news, but I think if your car needs a new main cat, this is only half the story. The symptoms you describe (smoke, lousy running, noises) are symptomatic of engine probs. Cat failure on its own just makes the engine weasy and impossible to get to high revs - its a bit like shoving a banana up the exhaust.
PS - I am no expert, so there may be hope!
It is worth contacting Mr T as there is a tiny chance your car has been serviced properly and it would be on their records. Just call up Oakmere in northwich and see if they have any records on the Mr T service computer.
If it has a long MOT, would it be worth getting hold of a CAT BYPASS pipe - you would soon realise if there was still a major engine issue and it would be a lot cheaper. If all was OK after a few months, you could fork out for a CAT and flog the bypass pipe on EBAY.
Hope it fixes
Chris
or get a universal sports cat welded into the pipe.
what ever the situation, you should avoid driving it until mr T can take a look!
I'm thinking that a cat bypass avoids the prospect of demolishing another cat.
It would be galling to spend £400+ and realise it doesn't fix the problem AND knackers the new car s:( :( s:(
Or you could just bung it in the Queensferry car auctions.
One more choice is to go to your nearest muffler/exhaust shop and have them replace the cat with anything that fits. I'm talking about cutting it off and welding a new one in. It was some £50 when I had it done over here.
Oh and someone is just selling a whole new (=used) engine over at SC for $400, about £200. s;) ;) s;) Can't get that to UK in a hurry though, or the shipping charges will kill you.
Thanks all for your words of wisdom.
If I had the time to shop around I would but I'm going away for three weeks very soon (wedding/honeymoon abroad) and need my car back on the road as quick as poss at whatever cost.
I'm taking the risk and just having the precats gutted and fitting a 19,000 mile '04 main cat that I got from a breakers for £188 delivered, tad expensive but I really am in a hurry and didn't know you could get new ones for not much more - live and learn - when MrT quoted £630 + VAT for the main cat and the garage could get one for £430+Vat I thought £188 was a bargain!
So, the cat arrives wednesday, precats being gutted as we speak - although the bolts sheared off and the garage is charging me for the time it takes to drill them out... 5 hrs @£40/hr for the precats - not too chuffed about that but have too much else on to be bothered arguing now, plus, he's working on my car so i don't want to upset him!!! Whilst it's there I'm also having a major service done and tracking sorted, was a bit shaky at about 60-70mph.
All-in I think it's gonna set me back approx £700 inc VAT - but I'll barter once the work's done and I'm happy with it. Luckily I get my annual bonus in April which more than covers this. phew!
I'll let you know how I get on with post-op oil consumption when I've had chance to drive it around for a bit...
QuoteSo, the cat arrives wednesday, precats being gutted as we speak - although the bolts sheared off and the garage is charging me for the time it takes to drill them out... 5 hrs @£40/hr for the precats - not too chuffed
im in the wrong business
Maybe we should set up a precattery shop.
Does MI5 not pay so well these days?
Chris, I've offered to help you with your precats b4 mate. Just say when.
FOC of course.
And, as i understand it, MI5 has never paid well. It laughable really, being a spy for £12000 a year. You dont even get a watch that fires a laser, nor a toaster that doubles up as a satellite phone/trouser press.
It'd have to be free - they've already been gutted. But thanks for the offer!
(would i need to supply spare manifold nuts?)
I recall seeing the ads for Mi5 in Manchester - not very James Bond.
Hmmm!
When all is done I'll see if I can get him to agree a reasonable price for anyone else around here that wants their pre-cats gutted - perhaps if I can send some more business his way he'll give me a discount!!!
Otherwise I'll just tell you all where not to go!
when yiouy cats are dione change your oil to 15w50 and cross your fingers
thicker oil will band aid it if your lucky, at least until you can afford that new engine
Quote from: "markiii"when yiouy cats are dione change your oil to 15w50 and cross your fingers
thicker oil will band aid it if your lucky, at least until you can afford that new engine
you been sniffing glue old boy?
yep
got some on my fingers :-) :-) :-)
It's back in my drive as of this afternoon. Still a little smokey at first (when cold) but not half as bad as when the main cat was full of pre cat!!! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'm no mechanic so if I tell you what I've seen/heard so far can you tell me what your thoughts are.
After it warmed up the smoking died down (could it just have been burning off some residues???) Also got my missus to drive it whilst I followed her and there was a little puff from the exhaust everytime she hit the throttle at lower speeds, until it got warm and she hit the open road. It hasn't smoked noticeably since but it got dark and much harder to see what was happening.
It smells like warm oil too when I park up which is worrying me a bit now. It did have that smell before... which I thought was normal s:?: :?: s:?:
The engine sounds a little clicky under throttle, and when ticking over there's a regular airy noise, almost like its taking breath of air.
One last thing - a couple of times it seemed a bit slow to accelerate in second until about 3000rpm then it just opens up as normal. Not noticed this anywhere else in the range.
s:? :? s:? I may be being over sensitive to every smell, sound and sensation as it's only just come out of the garage but then again maybe I'm not s:?: :?: s:?:
Given the problems I've just had I don't think it'll be long before I'm looking for a new engine... gonna monitor oil closely from now and see what you guys reckon s:?: :?: s:?:
cheers
Hi Gav,
Heres hoping it keeps going a lot longer - sounds like it could have been a whole lot worse. I know the garage in Gorstage well, nice little driving lane that one - near my parents house.
I'll keep my eyes open for your 2
did they do an oil change?
the last thing you want is precat material in teh oil still floating around
Quote from: "markiii"did they do an oil change?
the last thing you want is precat material in the oil still floating around
In addition to having precats gutted and an '04 19000 mile main cat put on I had the tracking and camber sorted and a full service...
here's a break down for you...(prices include VAT)
the 'new' main cat £188
gutting precats and putting new main cat on £188
Service £117.50
Semi-synth 5w 30 Oil £25.85
Spin-on Oil Filter £6.15
Air Filter £13.38
NGK Plugs £18.57
Consumables? £2.12
Tracking £30.55
Camber adjustment £68.15
TOTAL - £658.27The breathy sound on tick-over wasn't there when I got to work this morning (20 mile drive). very little smoke too which went after a couple of minutes - once it had warmed up, still sounds a little diesel like and still a little sluggish below 3000rpm in 2nd. (Sticky valve?)
So, I too hope it keeps going for a good while longer now!
Quote from: "Chris_h"I'll keep my eyes open for your 2
I'm in Weaverham... there's a blue '2 living near Hanging Gate, X reg hard top which I nearly bought myself from Oakmere Toyota. Wonder if he/she knows about the pre-cat issue...? may have to pass on the info.
There's a few '2 s in the car park at work... I must let them know too since I now have personal experience!!!
NOOOOOOOOOOOoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo! This is bad, very bad s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry: s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
On way home I noticed some more puffs of blue smoke when I accelerated in 4th and 5th gears after coasting down to about 2000 rpm (not my normal driving style!) I've now done about 60miles since getting the car back from the garage and when I just checked the oil it's about 1cm above the L on the dipstick s:shock: :shock: s:shock: (when pushed all the way in)
I rang the garage to check he'd filled it all the way up and he confirmed he had. s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
s:?: :?: s:?: So, what engine/part is it I'm looking for now? I've read things like short block and long block but being a complete numpty I've no idea what that means... s:?: :?: s:?: or how much I should pay s:?: :?: s:?:
try thicker oil first
Quote from: "markiii"try thicker oil first
Do I need to drain what's in there first before I put some thick stuff in?
does it have to be semi-synth, like what's in there at the moment?
drain and refil with 15w50 you might get away with it
best bet is fully synth mobil1
if it still dissapears it's new engine time
If the only issue is high oil consumption, you might wanna try this:
m http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/ (http://www.valvoline.com/maxlife/) m
It's superb for worn engines and has saved many oileaters. s8) 8) s8)
Gav, sorry to hear about your problems, but the simple answer to your original question is NO. YOUR PRE-CATS HAVE NOT KNACKERED YOUR ENGINE: IT'S YOUR ENGINE WHICH HAS KNACKERED YOUR CATS. And unless you do something about it, your engine will also destroy your replacement cat sooner or later.
As some of the more astute contributors have already pointed out, if your engine was already burning oil when you bought the car then that's the cause of your pre-cat break up. As is well documented elsewhere, Toyota had a big problem with oil consumption on VVTi engines in all applications (not just MR2) between approximately 2000 and 2002. Toyota were certainly aware of the problem and have probably replaced thousands of engines worldwide under warranty. It seems that the problems were mainly a result of the piston design, and various modifications seem to have cured the problem.
If you check w www.spyderchat.com (http://www.spyderchat.com) w there is a thread recording owners' engine and cat failures. Every one of these failures is relating to 2000-2002 cars with one exception of a 2003 car (probably manufactured in 2002). Most owners also mention increased oil consumption prior to cat failure.
Also check out m http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/inde ... 9148&st=25 (http://toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59148&st=25) m which discusses oil consumption and engine failure on Avensis and other models.
There are people on this site who will still maintain that pre-cat break up is the primary cause of the problems and that Toyota are involved in a massive cover-up operation, but the evidence suggests that they are wrong. The fact that the post modification engines don't seem to suffer to anything like the same extent, if at all, suggests that the problem was piston related rather than pre-cat related. And the fact that Toyota replaced so many engines with heavy oil consumption suggest that they do not shirk their responsibilities and that if pre-cats really had been causing engine failures they would have admitted the problem and done something about it.
To return to your engine problems, I suggest that the best course of action would be to strip the engine and assess the damage. First remove the head and examine the cylinder bores, then examine the crank bearing shells. If you're lucky you might get away with fitting new (later type) pistons, possibly even without a rebore. But engine rebuilds aren't cheap these days, so a secondhand engine might be the cheaper option. And if you do choose that route, make sure that you get a later engine because you will almost certainly be buying one without service history.
PS. Sorry, but thicker oil will make no difference whatsoever! If anything
it will eventually exacerbate the problem.
So Mike, in essence your saying that post facelift cars have no problems whatsoever regarding precat/oil rings?
Nelix. No, I wouldn't fall into the trap of saying that post-facelift cars have no such problems because someone will immediately come along with an example of one that does! But I am saying that all the evidence I've been able to find seems to suggest that most of the problems have occurred with the 2000 - 2002 cars. And I repeat, if pre-cat breakup was the primary cause of the engine failures, then post facelift engines would continue to fail as often as pre-facelift (unless of course Toyota actually modified the pre-cats at the same time, which AFAIK, they didn't).
Do you know of any attempts to collate the data? I'm genuinely interested in this issue but I can't find any genuine attempts to analyse the evidence other than that very simple survey on the spyderchat website. All I can find on here is conjecture.
Thicker oil will presumably reduce the oil burning a little? but obviously it isn't a fix - it'll just get your car to the trade auctions (and reduce the blue smoke a bit) if you don't want to pay 1k+ on a new engine.
Sorry to hear that Gav - you could always look out for one of the Celica 190 engines and consider it an 'upgrade'.
In your humble opinion though, its definetly not pre cat failure that causes the problem, so there is no need for the Che manifold i have purchased to stop this happening on my 400mile 06 plate? I can therefore not bother fitting the Che, safe in the knowledge that the issue isnt precat related and im in no danger of engine failure from precat disintegration?
Just as an aside - and hopefully some advice for Gav (feel for you mate)
Should he stop driving it now? presumably the engine is fecked, but 'IF' it was the oil that killed the cats, then how long will the new main cat have left with this level of oil consumption?
Or was it the oil that killed the precats, that killed the main cat?
Make me want to buy something reliable like a Toyota,,, hold on.....
wether oil caused teh cats or teh cats caused teh oil is pretty much moot.
precat material in teh oil and teh bores will exacerbate the oil issue.
no precats and a thicker oil and you might make the engine last a bit longer, I never said you'd save it.
Personally I do beleive there is an oil issue with these engines however as evidenced by so many non failures after precats are out, the precats do increase your chance of failure once teh oil issue begins.
conjecture is all we have without a scientific study or direct comment from toyota
we have neither
and as for toyota honouring repairs on so many engines with oil issues, there are also loads of documented cases where they have not, especially in teh event of precat failure and even have replaced engines but not cleared teh cats and caused teh engine to go twice or 3 times, so I wouldn't be playing teh magnanimous Toyoto would fix it, if it were an issue argument either.
but hey, we've only been dealing with these issues for 5 years or so on both sides of teh pond.
It was nice though to get a definite answer for once though s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "markiii"Personally I do beleive there is an oil issue with these engines however as evidenced by so many non failures after precats are out, the precats do increase your chance of failure once the oil issue begins.
I'm sure you're right about that. s8) 8) s8)
There are many 1ZZ's in other cars without precats. They suffer from the same oil issue as we do, but since they don't have the precats, they only get the oil consumption issue and it never really goes further from there. The engine just keeps using oil, but it doesn't ever self destruct.
So I'm kinda sure that the oil issue is the root cause, but the precats are what kills our engines.
Change of oil has saved many engines. Not necessarily thicker, as for example the Mobil1 15W50 doesn't make a big difference. But the Valvoline Maxlife really does, it's designed for worn engines, which is exactly what we have after the precat material gets into the engine. It's even cheaper than Mobil1, so what would you lose by trying it? s8) 8) s8)
The only fully synth 15W50 I could find was Motul 300 @ £30 for 5L which I though was pretty cheap considering Mobil1 is about £45
I'm going to do the oil change later today and then run my car for a couple of days to see what happens... s:?: :?: s:?:
However, I believe my engine is totally screwed and I wouldn't feel comfortable flogging it to anyone in the state it's in, I owe money on it and what I'd get wouldn't cover the repayments. I'd rather buy a newer engine and then just keep the car.
So, I'll need a 2zz engine with low(ish) mileage right? (where do I look - breakers?) What bits do I need to make sure I buy? how much is reasonable to pay for the engine? How much should it cost to have it replaced at a garage?
I'd rather pay a bit more now and replace everything that's potentially knackered.
Quote from: "Gav1980"What bits do I need to make sure I buy? how much is reasonable to pay for the engine? How much should it cost to have it replaced at a garage?
m http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic. ... transplant (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14699&highlight=2zz+transplant) m
For more info search for 2zz transplant on here & spyderchat
Quote from: "Gav1980"So, I'll need a 2zz engine with low(ish) mileage right?
Since you said in earlier posts that you just want it fixed, I have to ask...you do know that 2ZZ-GE is the 190hp engine from T-Sport Toyotas, right?
We have a 1ZZ-FE stock. 1ZZ is cheap and basically you just need the engine without any accessories or electrics. 2ZZ is very expensive (compared to 1ZZ anyway) and you need plenty to go with it.
I'd bite the bullet and get Rogue to do a 2zz conversion then at least you have a decent engine you don't need to worry about. It'll also increase the value of your car to those in the know. The 1zz issues were the 2nd main reason I didn't buy an MRS, behind the lack of space and I couldn't afford a facelifted car at the time.
s:?: :?: s:?: A neighbour of mine has suggested Holts Piston Seal...
m http://www.holtsauto.com/ (http://www.holtsauto.com/) m (go here and put Piston seal in the search)
...anyone know if this is any good s:?: :?: s:?: or seriously bad for my engine s:?: :?: s:?:
I'm willing to try it and let you know the results provided there isn't anything that's going to make my problem worse s:!: :!: s:!:
I can get it from hellfords (for about £10-£15 I think)
no idea if it will work, but I doubt it will make matters worse
Well, having suggested the Holts piston seal he went and bought me some other stuff - as payment for the lawnmower I just gave him (I didn't want anything for it as it didn't cost me anything!) s:? :? s:?
He got me:
STP oil treatment (blue 450ml bottle, red cap) - not be used on vehicles with a wet clutch - is that me?
Wynn's Stop Smoke Oil Supplement, (Clear 325ml bottle with yellow liquid)
Having no knowledge of oil additives I'm now concerned about mixing these things together s:? :? s:? no idea what kind of reactions there may be between them... anyone know s:?: :?: s:?:
Any suggestions as to which one may be best to try if not both together s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?:
Thanks
havn't a clue as to wether you can mix them all together but no you dont have a wet clutch
Generally, it's not a good idea to mix additives, unless you know what you're doing. Just use either one at a time and try the other one afterwards, if you still think you need it. I have no idea which might be better, I've used STP myself.
Quote from: "Tem"Generally, it's not a good idea to mix additives, unless you know what you're doing. Just use either one at a time and try the other one afterwards, if you still think you need it. I have no idea which might be better, I've used STP myself.
Figured it probably wouldn't be good to mix them! Have you used STP in your '2?
Well, I'll try the STP first anyway and give it a good while to get to work. Fingers crossed my engine can see me through until I've finished paying for my wedding... only a week and half away now so I may not be back on here for a while. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Cheers all for your advice so far. Gav
Quote from: "Gav1980"Have you used STP in your '2?
No, just with older cars, like my current ~400tkm Crown. s8) 8) s8)
I think...and I'm only guessing here...that most of those oil stop additives only aim and valve seals and such and wouldn't help with worn cylinder walls at all. I hope I'm wrong though. s:? :? s:?
I've only come across one product that helps with worn bores, RVS. Might wanna consider it, if these additives don't help you.
m http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/index.htm (http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/index.htm) m
Quote from: "Tem"I've only come across one product that helps with worn bores, RVS. Might wanna consider it, if these additives don't help you.
m http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/index.htm (http://www.rvs-tec.com/English/index.htm) m
just had a visit to the link Tem sent and it looks like it could be very useful... I will try the other things first (changing oil each time) (how long / how many miles should I give each additive to get to work before I decide if it works or not s:?: :?: s:?: )
and if they don't work I'll try the RVS. It's gotta be worth a go at saving the engine before I go for a replacement...
Besides, it'll be interesting (if not altogether scientific) research for anyone else that want's to have a go. (Yes, I'm a scientist but one that normally deals with things you can't see...) s:!: :!: s:!:
Gav
Quote from: "Gav1980"I will try the other things first (changing oil each time) (how long / how many miles should I give each additive to get to work before I decide if it works or not s:?: :?: s:?: )
You should notice it relatively fast, within 100 miles or so.
Quote from: "Tem"You should notice it relatively fast, within 100 miles or so.
Quick update for those that are following my progress...
I put the STP in last night and within the 20 mile trip to work this morning I noticed that the loud rattle the engine had under acceleration has diminished significantly, which is promising s:) :) s:) s:? :? s:? ... s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?:
It still has a little single "putt" under deceleration sometimes so the engine is still a bit poorly s:( :( s:( ... will keep a close eye on oil levels... fingers crossed the car will see me through to my next pay day - BONUS time s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D ! (Plus I'm in line for a nice payout cos the new owners of the company want to change everyone's contracts and they're offering a nice bribe s:!: :!: s:!: ) s:D :D s:D
Oh, and my neighbour has a compression testing kit that I'll be borrowing very soon (along with his expertise)...
Gav
I think you will find eveyone who has had their pre-cats taken out and kept the manifold will get the occassional "phutt" on over-run.
I think it's something to do with the large volume expansion "chamber" now that the pre-cats aren't filling them up.
Hot gases + rich mixture on over-run + chambered manifold = ignited combustion in the exhaust manifold.
So it might not be anything to worry about particularly. s:? :? s:?
OK, I went away for a while to get married etc...
Now I'm back and am having a compression test done (this week i hope) by my neighbour who knows what he's doing.
So, I'm pretty sure all it will do is confirm my engine is shot and I need to replace it. It's still going through oil like a hot knife through butter. I've got a few questions s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?: s:?: :?: s:?: and have searched the forum and not come to any conclusions... possibly 'cos I'm a bit stupid or my head is still in the Maldives...
Elephant won't continue to insure me if the engine replacement increases the BHP at all so the 2ZZ is probably out of the question (although £45 to cancel the Elephant policy isn't much when you consider the benefits of the 2ZZ) anyone got a rough idea of how much the insurance would increase? s:?: :?: s:?: and who i should use? s:?: :?: s:?: if I got rogue to do the swap.
Alternatively, I could replace the engine with a post-03 MR2 engine - are these still 1zz-fe??? s:?: :?: s:?: i don't want another pre-03 engine like mine. Is there any increase in BHP between the pre and post 03 roadster engines? s:?: :?: s:?: Do I need to get the 6-speed gearbox put in as well? s:?: :?: s:?:
Sorry for all the Q's. Gutted I missed out on the corky group buy - not that I'll be able to afford anything else for a while now!
thanks