I have the hardware all wired up and working. It sounds ok, but I have a feeling it could be better. So how do I go at it?
Earlier I've only had basic systems, sub + component series with passive crossovers. So I've basically had the choice of choosing the frequency for LPF/HPF in the ampilifier for sub&components.
Now I have this:
Pioneer DEH-P880RS (http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/pna/v3/pg/product/details/0,,2076_310069882_291159496,00.html)
Basic amplifier (http://www.autostudio.fi/product_info.php?cPath=21_25_143&products_id=4687)
Infinity Kappa 65.7CS (http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/products/product_detail.aspx?prod=KAPPA65.7CS/230&cat=COS&ser=KAP&Language=ENG&Country=GB&Region=EUROPE) -Thanks GSB!-
UD Sub Jr, with JL Audio 6W0 sub (http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=23)
My "problem" is that the Pioneer unit is loaded with features. The outputs have hi/lo pass filters, where you can set the frequency and the curve. It has 16-band EQ, different for left/right. It has time alignments. And whatevers. s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
So any pointers on how to get started? I tried to use the "autotune" features of the Pioneer, but they somehow make some music sounds weird. Like say you have drums that go from right, through center, to left...after the autotunes it sounds like is starts very strong from right, then gets quieter towards the middle and instead of going to the left, it just goes more quiet. s:? :? s:?
Also, as the speakers are 2ohm and the sub is 4ohm, should I have the amp levels around the same for both, or...? The amp says it gives 150W to 2ohm (=speakers) and 300W to bridged 4ohm (=sub).
Help a newbie! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
to be honest tuning by ear is your best bet, working through trial and error, i hvae done some work on sond desks and found that if you start one side of a graphic equaliser and work your way across, often best to set each one to both extremes then set it where you want it, then go back etc and re check them once you have them all set.
its time consuming, and you'll cry if you ever have to reset it by accident.
Yep, i'm running a similar setup and have been confised by the mass of alteration possibilities, os much so that i have largely ignored most of the settings and left them at the default settings, with maybe just the slightest tweeks to bass/treble to stop too many distortions..
For home cinema you can actualy buy a set up disk to tune your system up.
in the car I think its much more about focusing the sound stage in the right place.
So getting the balances and fades right so then you can uniformly affect everything nicely with the volume.
Hmmm s:) :) s:) An excellent choice of headunit. Same as me s;) ;) s;)
You think that's bad - I used to have the P90RS with the DEQ-P90 equalizer and that was ridiculous. I choose the P88RS this time because of the auto-setup. I find it does a superb job s:) :) s:) I've got PRS speakers and amps and it sounds brilliant. I'd setup the controls on the amp for safety
- low pass filter for sub on 200Hz + 20Hz sub sonic if poss
- high pass filter for front components at 40Hz
Setup the headunit for 80Hz 12dB out of phase for the Sub and 80Hz 12dB on the front comps. Out of phase is so you have improved sound continuity at the crossover point.
After that - setup the seat position and let the autoEQ and auto Time align do the rest. I found it's perfect s:) :) s:) Make sure that the microphone is where your head usually is rather than the back of the headrest as a few cms will make a big difference.
Everyone's taste is different when it comes to tuning their system. My advice is to buy a system tester cd. This will let you hear low, mid and high tones seperatly and together. It will give you a good idea of when you've too much bass tone on your hands and help you to round out the sound nicely.