Apologies - first post!
I think the time has come to depart with my MR2 Roadster to free up cash for wedding, although sunshine at the mo is inspiring me to find alternative ways to pay for honeymoon!!
In prep for sale i am going to service, dont think I will bother with Mr T as seems to cost a fotune for what another garage will charge, plus a service is a service if done right and booked stamped. The only thing I need to fix (and should have done this last winter when it started!) is fix the aerial. Looks as though it is not a major problem as i still hear a whiring noise if I turn rado on/off and the aerial does still come up (but not all the way) and will go down fully with a gentle tap. My mate has suggested that all I need to get is the plastic (!) bit inside as the teeth may have worn - would this sound right? If so, does anyone know where I can get the part(s) at a good price (I tried looking at the parts list on here but got myself all in a muddle!!) and have any idea how to easily fix?
Look forward to replies and thanks in advance.
right, chances are that the motor section is fine, if you remove the silver nut at the base of the aerial then turn on the stereo, the aerial willextend, grab it and as it comes out keep a steady and gental pull on it and it'll come out with a long toothed section attached, take a picture of the end of the end of the toothed section and we'll tell you if you need to go any further with the dismantelling
ok will do - thanks for advice, will get pic up here by the w/e.
I have had my mate look at it who it better at cars than me - i could not work out how to get the aerial out - watching him do it it was so simple and dont know how i couldnt do it myself!! Didnt have my camera, but he has confirmed that the plastic bit with teeth has broken off at the bottom and thats why it is not fully coming out & needs a little tap to get it back down. He seems to think I need to get a new insert, take the aerial apart to get the broken bit out and then feed the new bit back in. Is this right & if so - what the easiest/safest way to do it? SOrry it has taken me so long to look into again!!
Your pal is right. New mast is about £40 from Mr T.
Pull out the rear wheel plastic insert, careful you dont break the stupid plastic pins and I think there's a bolt there at the rear bottom, disconnect the bolt that holds the the aerial to the inner wing.
You should be able to drop the aerial after unscrewing the chrome screw surrounding the aerial on the wing, without taking the wiring or co-ax out.
Take off the plastic cover, undo the various screws, open her up, take out the white broken bit.
Put everything back together.
Turn radio on, have the new mast ready, switch the radio off then feed the new mast down the hole the aerial will pull the mast down......I put some grease on the white snake bit but I don't know if that's recommened, it just seemed to make sense!
All thanks go to Spit!
B
Quote from: "wbarrwebster"Pull out the rear wheel plastic insert, careful you dont break the stupid plastic pins and I think there's a bolt there at the rear bottom, disconnect the bolt that holds the the aerial to the inner wing.
You should be able to drop the aerial after unscrewing the chrome screw surrounding the aerial on the wing, without taking the wiring or co-ax out.
before you do all of that though, always worthwhile undoing the chrome nut at the top and pulling out the mast, you never know you may be able to get the broken bit out if its broken far enough along the cogged snake, easier than taking it all apart if it will come out easy
Sorry to drag up an old thread - love the search button! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quotewbarrwebster wrote:
Pull out the rear wheel plastic insert, careful you dont break the stupid plastic pins and I think there's a bolt there at the rear bottom, disconnect the bolt that holds the the aerial to the inner wing.
You should be able to drop the aerial after unscrewing the chrome screw surrounding the aerial on the wing, without taking the wiring or co-ax out.
Any chance that I could pop around to yours if I get another aerial and you could help me fix mine?
If its only the last couple of inches that has broke you can fix the ariel by removing plastic wheel arch to get the motor,the whilst ariel is down carefully remove cover to motor to expose white cogs find the end of the toothed part where it has snapped and melt this into a small blob.Put it all back together and the blob will stop the ariel when extended and keep toothed wire in place for retraction or buy new mast from MR T for around £40,up to you.
Thanks Bryan, as Barry had done it before I was asking if I could pop around to him, believe me I don't mind getting my hands dirty, but I do like saving money if it can be salvaged!
Liz,
No problem.........goodness knows I've time on my hands just now. I'll drop you a PM on my address, confirm when you can bring it down to me.
B
any chance of a few pic and comments when you do this.
s;) ;) s;)
I havn't been able to tie up date and time with Liz as yet but most of my information for messing with the Aerial I picked up from aprevious Thread by Spit.
Can I suggest you do a Search.......Frankly it's not difficult, the plastic pins that hold the inner wing are a pain from memory but I was surprised how easily the motor came apart (about 6 screws). Don't attempt disconnect the wiring or the co ax, it's not necessary and once you're ito the motor what to do is pretty obvious.
Like alot of these things, the biggest issue(s) was getting past the body parts to get to the job!
B
Right, having nothing much to do today, I thought that I would have a go at this today and take some pictures so that it may be of use to people in the future..
1 - as mentioned = remove the plastic inner wheel arch liner, self explantory really - normal lot of fiddly clips etc!
2 - Once the inner liner is removed - look to your right and you will see this:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/004-2.jpg)
3 - Unscrew the chrome surround at the top of the aerial and then unbolt the bottom as indicated in the picture above.
4. Motor removed, I unplugged the power because it gave a bit more room to work, but left the co-ax attached: This is the motor with the relevant screws removed:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/005-2.jpg)
5. Lift off the top once you have unscrewed it and you will see this gungy mess!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/006-3.jpg)
It all sort of sprang apart when I undid it!
6. This is the part of mine which had broken off:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/010.jpg)
7. Get a cigarette lighter and after wiping off the oil from the end of the remaining cog, burn it until it forms a lump
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/007-1.jpg)
8. Put the round plastic bit back inside the cover and place the cogged plastic inside it.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/008.jpg)
Put it all back together again!
Imagine my disappointment after putting it all back on, that I switched the radio on and it didn't work.....do remember to plug the power back in!!
This is the finished result, obviously does not go up as far as before and makes a clunk noise when it goes up, but no longer requires a hand to get it down again!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/009.jpg)
Save me a few pounds - hope that these pictures are of use to someone!
Goooooooooo Liz s:D :D s:D
Nice one Liz ..
B
Nice write up with pics,thats how i did it but you have made it easier for everyone to understand.Nice one s:D :D s:D
I come in useful sometimes! I followed your instructions so we both had a part in that!
Excellent right up thanks! s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
When i went down to rogue had a mast from mr T but they told me bar the huge bend in the mast the motor was also at fault recieving 12v but not moving s:x :x s:x so depating whether to get a white halfords aftermarket one, just debating its looks though, don't want it looking horrid.
Can't you get a black beesting?
Quote from: "Thudd"Can't you get a black beesting?
Dunno i'm in two minds about this
(http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_193227_langId_-1_categoryId_165626)
dont think picture works so link
m http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_165626 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_193227_langId_-1_categoryId_165626) m
How easy would refeeding the areial cable through to the stereo be though? Do you still have to do that with the black beesting?
Interesting Liz,
I had a similar problem on my mk2.
Im sure I got a new inner part, that was the aerial bit and plastic whip. Then you can just feed it in the top with the radio on and turn it off to wind it back in.
Phil
Driving down the motorway and see a plastic bag floating around in the wind. I think "please don't hit the aerial" and you can guess what happened next. I slowed down and removed the bag but the damage is done and the mast is bent. Now the aerial won't retract fully and it seems the 2nd stem from the bottom is bent. I have tried to bend it back into shape whilst in situ with a bit of success - it now extends fully but won't retract. Don't like the sound of £40 for a new one. s:( :( s:(
Screw the chrome nut off, turn radio on, as the aerial comes up gently pull it out.
Attempt to staighten it...
Push the plastic toothed end down the mount, turn radio off.....the aerial motor should pull the mast down assuming you've straightened it enough ( he says) Replace the chrome nut!
B
I straightened it a bit but was trying not to snap it.
Quote from: "Twos Company"I straightened it a bit but was trying not to snap it.
Mine took to not retracting - probably due to water ingress from the side drains. I lived with it for a long time but then the flaming bin lorry swiped my aerial one morning and I found it pointing sideways like a long metal indicator so I had to snap it off myself. Only a new mast is going to save mine now s:( :( s:(
I have recently bought a Roadster and therefore I am new to the owners club. Like many before me, I am having trouble with the electric aeriel. It will probably repair but I have bought a replacement from E Bay. Either way, I need to get to the unit and here is where my trouble starts. Firstly, i have noticed that the rear wheel locking nut is not standard. It is different to the locking nuts on the other three wheels (pin type) and I do not have a removal tool. Secondly, I am struggling with sussing out how to remove the plastic inner wing. As I am sure you are aware, there appears to be a series of black plastic studs holding it in place.
I would be grateful if anyone could give me some tips on overcoming the wheel locking nut problem and tips on removing the plastic inner wing - I dont want to rag it about and break the fixings or plastic inner wing.
Many thanks in anticipation of your valued assistance
Steve
Steve, hopefully you've got this sorted by now but just in case...
To remove the clips you lever out the centre to release them then pull out the clip. I lost a few in finding this out which is why I'm back here. To ask if there's anywhere I can buy more.
Also, thank you Liz for the guide; it was really useful. It seems that someone has been in there before me and removed the cogged piece. Is it possible to replace this?
Great advice on here guys, My Girlfriends aerial making a loud noise when going up and down. From what Ive been reading on here it could either be the end of the mast itself or the white plastic teeth rings in the bottom of the motor...Is that right?
Also why do you slighlty melt the end of the broken teethed ring before re -fitting?
Cheers, Stephen
The original end that snaps off has a small lump on the end as an endstop. You are modifying the broken end to form a new endstop.
Quote from: "dick2ski"The original end that snaps off has a small lump on the end as an endstop. You are modifying the broken end to form a new endstop.
The original doesnt have an end stop it just has a plastic teeth section long enough that the aerial cant extend any further when all the metal telescopic bits have reached full height but when it breaks then the aerial cant extend fully so the cogged motor just spins on the end of the broken part so by melting an end stop you are creating a point that the motor has to stop thinking the aerial is fully extended.Hope this makes sense. s:D :D s:D
in an attempt not to make a new thread and after searching using the search button I have decided to use this thread. - Hope that makes sense. s:? :? s:?
Anyway, in short I just need a tutorial on how to change the mast in the electric aerial as my white whip is broken. - this is the replacement part - ebay Item number: 360381835352.
I already used the above tutorial to remove the broken bits from inside the motor and tried to just continue using as is but everytime the mast goes up it make a horrible noise cause the whip is to short and the motor keeps spinning and grinding.
thanks for any replies in assisting me.
Zen
Hi,
I assume that you viewed Liz's original post which should answer all the queries.
If I read you right..If you used the original mast, the plastic whip is too short, that's why the motor is still attempting to put the aerial up. You need the new replacement longer whip....... From memory the job is relatively straight forward, as I mentioned in my original post, I actually lubricated the whip just 'cause rightly or wrongly that it made sense.
B
Quote from: "wbarrwebster"Hi,
I assume that you viewed Liz's original post which should answer all the queries.
If I read you right..If you used the original mast, the plastic whip is too short, that's why the motor is still attempting to put the aerial up. You need the new replacement longer whip....... From memory the job is relatively straight forward, as I mentioned in my original post, I actually lubricated the whip just 'cause rightly or wrongly that it made sense.
B
motor stops when it hits the ball on the end of the whip, not done on length. mine broke so just melted a new ball on the end. it a bit shorter now but it still stops when it up as much as it will go and back down to its stop postition.
OP if it still trying to go up after its fully up then the ball on the end of the whip just not big enough, also a bit for insulation tape around the ball will give it a bit of a cusion and should help it to not brake again in the future.
B[/quote]
motor stops when it hits the ball on the end of the whip, not done on length. mine broke so just melted a new ball on the end. it a bit shorter now but it still stops when it up as much as it will go and back down to its stop postition.
OP if it still trying to go up after its fully up then the ball on the end of the whip just not big enough, also a bit for insulation tape around the ball will give it a bit of a cusion and should help it to not brake again in the future.[/quote]
i made a ball when trying a cheap repair. Worked but motor kept spinning so I made the ball bigger and still the same result. The motor just keeps spinning and grinding. So i thought that the only way is to get a whole new whip and try that.
mine does stop. hard without looking. possible to upload some pics of the inside ie size of ball etc.
Sorry for once again ressurecting an ancient post but I'm stuck right on step one here.
How on earth do you get the chrome nut off at the base of the aerial. It is no doubt an extremely daft question but I wanted to make sure there isnt some sort of special tool to do this job?
if you look at the chrome bit it has slots either side of the aerial mast ,A pair of bull-nose pliers, or carefully with a large blade screwdriver one
side at a time ,dont slip and scratch the paint though
Thanks Trev! I did consider this but I thought it best to consult the experts first.
Quote from: "chame"Thanks Trev! I did consider this but I thought it best to consult the experts first.
circlip pliers are good if you have some decent ones
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/External-Circ ... 519e0d4421 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/External-Circlip-Pliers-Snap-Ring-Bent-Nose-6-150mm-/350544020513?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item519e0d4421) m
I'm having trouble with the below:-
3 - Unscrew the chrome surround at the top of the aerial and then unbolt the bottom as indicated in the picture above.
how do I unscrew this bolt? I can see the thread but can't get to the bolt..?
Can't recall specifically, how I got to mine, but can't recall any major difficulties, because you will need to get it back on.
Have you used a long socket, or a socket extension?
Quote from: "lozf1"I'm having trouble with the below:-
3 - Unscrew the chrome surround at the top of the aerial and then unbolt the bottom as indicated in the picture above.
how do I unscrew this bolt? I can see the thread but can't get to the bolt..?
Not sure why you cant get to it ,a deep socket will go on or a open ended spanner ,or a flexi head ratchet spanner
the bolt is fixed its the nut that comes off from under the wheel arch
Thanks for your help, how about disconnecting the wiring? This isn't explained in the how-to?
Quote from: "lozf1"Thanks for your help, how about disconnecting the wiring? This isn't explained in the how-to?
The wiring is connected inside the car under the storage bins ,then fed through into the wheel arch
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/2012-04-02190307.jpg)
The aerial lead connects here where the center console ends ,(white plug)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2989.jpg)
Quote from: "Liz"Right, having nothing much to do today, I thought that I would have a go at this today and take some pictures so that it may be of use to people in the future..
1 - as mentioned = remove the plastic inner wheel arch liner, self explantory really - normal lot of fiddly clips etc!
2 - Once the inner liner is removed - look to your right and you will see this:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/004-2.jpg)
3 - Unscrew the chrome surround at the top of the aerial and then unbolt the bottom as indicated in the picture above.
4. Motor removed, I unplugged the power because it gave a bit more room to work, but left the co-ax attached: This is the motor with the relevant screws removed:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/005-2.jpg)
5. Lift off the top once you have unscrewed it and you will see this gungy mess!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/006-3.jpg)
It all sort of sprang apart when I undid it!
6. This is the part of mine which had broken off:
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/010.jpg)
7. Get a e cigarette (http://www.ecigfiend.com/) lighter and after wiping off the oil from the end of the remaining cog, burn it until it forms a lump
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/007-1.jpg)
8. Put the round plastic bit back inside the cover and place the cogged plastic inside it.
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/008.jpg)
Put it all back together again!
Imagine my disappointment after putting it all back on, that I switched the radio on and it didn't work.....do remember to plug the power back in!!
This is the finished result, obviously does not go up as far as before and makes a clunk noise when it goes up, but no longer requires a hand to get it down again!
(http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y8/Turdbabe/009.jpg)
Save me a few pounds - hope that these pictures are of use to someone!
Hi Liz, If you want to run your wire out of the release I can offer you just our battery charger element. It installs below the section at the front side of the shifter and is operated off the 12v outlet utilize. You could then link a standard USB development cable and path it where needed. The battery charger also has two results so you could power two gadgets if you desired. PM me if you want more information and facts.
Thank you so much for this post. I had exactly the same issue and following this post sorted it and only took me about 30 minuits.
When I took it apart the part that snapped off was exactly the same
Quote from: "kanujunkie"right, chances are that the motor section is fine, if you remove the silver nut at the base of the aerial then turn on the stereo, the aerial willextend, grab it and as it comes out keep a steady and gental pull on it and it'll come out with a long toothed section attached, take a picture of the end of the end of the toothed section and we'll tell you if you need to go any further with the dismantelling
Desperate for help here. How do you get the old aerial out? I bought a new one with the toothed plastic cord coming out the bottom of it on ebay for £20 but I can't get the old one out. I've taken the motor out and opened it up and removed the broken piece as shown earlier and put it back together. Obviously I've removed the chrome nut at the base of the aerial and put the radio on to extend the aerial but no amount of pulling will get it to come out with the toothed plastic bit attached and ready to insert the new one. Is it still attached somewhere? HELP!
Edit: Sorted now. I just had to put it up and down a few times pulling the aerial furiously each time until it eventually popped out. The teeth of the aerial need to face the rear of the car by the way to be drawn in correctly. The Ebay aerial is an OEM aerial and works a treat other than I had to trim the toothed section as it wouldn't fully retract due to being too long, even though the instructions which came with it (for a Lexus for some reason) said not to! s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes: After removing the original and recovering the broken piece from the aerial body casing I simply held them alongside the new one to get the exact length and then trimmed it to match. I'm no mechanic and I found it a bit tricky if I'm honest and it has taken me quite a few hours (not helped by forgetting to put the white toothed coil cover back inside the aerial assembly, and having completely finished the job, finding it on the ground s:evil: :evil: s:evil: ), but I'm very proud of myself for having fixed this issue and if you're methodical it is achievable for most people.
How do you get the top nut at the base of the aerial undone? It doesn't look like a spanner will fit on it and I don't want to attach it with the mole grips? Cheers!
Quote from: "Two's Company"How do you get the top nut at the base of the aerial undone? It doesn't look like a spanner will fit on it and I don't want to attach it with the mole grips? Cheers!
isnt the top nut sort of slotted ?
It is and I did think about using a screwdriver and a hammer but then worried about it slipping and ending up with a scratched wing...
Quote from: "Two's Company"It is and I did think about using a screwdriver and a hammer but then worried about it slipping and ending up with a scratched wing...
Ive always used a pair of long nosed pliers ,the ends are thin enough to act as a screwdriver in each slotted bit
Good shout. Thanks.
Just followed these instructions from Liz and saved myself £40
Thanks Liz
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