Bonjour!
Was planning on having the mk3 off the road for a few months but now the mk2 has developed a problem. Which is just as good, as I've now noticed that the clutch seems to be slipping and I definitely wouldn't want to be wanting to find this out during the summer!
The symptoms:
When accelerating, the revs seem to keep on rising, whilst acceleration/power doesn't seem to alter. Then about a second later, it feels like the clutch is "gripping" again and off I accelerate as expected. I assume this IS a slipping clutch?
The mk2 is going in for some work on monday, so it doesn't matter how long it takes to sort this out as I'll have the mk2 back shortly!
Also if it is the clutch, can I someone let me know what parts I'll need to order so I can supply the mechanic? Or will he be able to source them cheaper? s:) :) s:)
Oh, and happy new year to everyone :p
-Wills
I bought an ACT when my clutch started slipping. As your N/A you should be able to cope with a lesser one than mine, the Heavy Duty Street rather than the Extreme Street version
m http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/toy ... spyder.htm (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/toyota/mr2_spyder.htm) m
Phil
Good opportunity to fit a lightweight flywheel if you are in there anyway.
Chris
Unfortunately I'm not made of money s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Sounds like clutch as you say. Drive up a hill in say third and put your foot down. Revs will increase but the car won't actually go any faster. At some point, the clutch will bite (but not aggressively) and it seems like normal. A bit like driving a car with an auto tranny.
Does buying one of those ATC clutches bring an advantage? Will it last far longer than a 'standard' one?
Will
There is a selection of H/duty clutch kits for the Mk2 on ebay at very reasonable prices.
Tony
Quote from: "evileye_xc"I bought an ACT when my clutch started slipping. As your N/A you should be able to cope with a lesser one than mine, the Heavy Duty Street rather than the Extreme Street version
m http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/toy ... spyder.htm (http://www.clutchcityonline.com/ACT/toyota/mr2_spyder.htm) m
Phil
IIRC S Cars were pretty cheap fitting a clutch. Just make sure your car doesn;t get stuck up a ramp s:) :) s:)
Does it only do it when you've just changed gear, or when you are applying peak torque? If its the former, the hydraulics may be knackered, if its the latter, then the clutch is worn out.
Edited to remove stupidity and confusion
Quote from: "GSB"Does it only do it when you've just changed gear, or when you are applying peak torque? If its the latter, the hydraulics may be knackered, if its the latter, then the clutch is worn out.
In the words of the Virgin Mary, come again? D'ya mean peak torque = worn clutch?
Alex, I'll probably use my local indy for fitting - he's done all the work on all my cars, gives me a fantastic price, and hasn't messed anything up (touch wood) to date s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "WillsSayers"In the words of the Virgin Mary, come again? D'you mean peak torque = worn clutch?
If a clutch is going to slip, its going to do it when the engine is transmitting its peak torque. Usually this is quite some way before peak power. At this point the engine is providing the greatest amount of turning force it can muster. If there is a sufficient load, such as the car going uphill, and the clutch is weak, it is at this point it will start to slip. Of course as it wears it will reach a point where it wont grip at all and will slip right across the rev range.
The reason I asked about weather it happens only when you change gear is because i once had a car that had a defective clutch slave cylider. When you engaged gear and let the clutch out, it took 4 or 5 seconds for the pressure in the clutch line to dissipate, and for the clutch to fully engage. It felt like a slipping clutch, but wasn't as the slip was never replicated when the car was under load.
Sorry, I asked what you meant as you mentioned "latter" twice!
It sounds like it's the clutch in that case. Horrah for spending money!...
Sorry to bring this back up:
Could someone please give me a couple of links for some decent clutches? I have no idea where to look for this sort of thing! I don't think the place Phil suggested operates from the UK, and that'd be preferred s:) :) s:) Ideally don't want to spend much more than £200!
Any takers? :]
Will I went with clutch city because they were recommended as being cheaper than the UK. My clutch was not much over £200 tho off hand I can't remember the exact price. Unfortunately fitting doubled the price so lets hope your garage are as cheap as you say
Phil
It's looking to be circa £325 to get the cheapest clutch from that site delivered over here unfortunately s:( :( s:( Just a bit pricey!
pm Dave of Prolex UK and see what sort of a deal he can do you.
I may do depending on the price CTP comes back with for an OEM one (I can't see me needing an uprated one considering my lack of power). I've read the thread about the ones from Prolex, and they seem to take a good 1000 - 1500 miles to wear in :S
I'm in the same boat at the moment and considering my relatively small power increases I might go down the N/A route. Do Exedy also produce the standard clutches? A quick google comes up with an Exedy for £80.
get teh corrolla T-sport one, oem prices but will take more power than a stock roadster clutch
Must be the time of year we all got slipping clutch problems s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Mine has just started slipping in fourth when cold
group buy s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "Twos Company"Do Exedy also produce the standard clutches? A quick google comes up with an Exedy for £80.
They do, but unless things have changed Prolex's contract with Exedy is for uprated stuff only so you'll have to source somewhere else.
I can recommend having a chat with Steve at Charlesworth - we got Jaik sorted recently with a good deal on supply and fit. The guys are getting very familiar with Mk3 clutches!
The Corolla T-Sport clutch had crossed my mind as I'm not planning on FI or SC anytime soon. Would I also need to replace the cover and the bearing or just the plate?
Would then release cash for a flywheel instead. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
If you already have an after market clutch, such as the RPS, can you just but some replacement parts instead of a whole new unit? or uprate it?
I was looking before and I noticed they interchange the parts depending on the expected power.
Phil
Random question:
Driving the Roadster tonight back to my g/f's house, and putting my foot down in 5th didn't cause the clutch to slip at all. "How perculier" thinks I, and proceed to drop it in to 3rd and put my foot down. No slippage. I pretty much ragged it (well, not quite - a spirited drive) all the way home and not once did the clutch slip. I've been CRAWLING around ever since it started slipping, but is it normal to suddenly start feeling like it's fine?
I'll probably get in the car tomorrow and find it's slipping and it was just a one-off.......!
temps and humidity conditions can do that, as you say tomorrow it'll probably start slipping again, mind you that could also be because of the snow thats heading our way as well s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Could also be that it has become glazed, then cleared itself again. It can happen. Worse if it has become contaminated with oil, then got hot enough to burn it off.
Chris