Edit: Now fitted and working!
Fed up changing disks with my MY04 HU, and the radio is full of drivel.
When I use my MP3 FM transmitter (which is fine on other cars) the reception is rubbish and it whines along with the engine RPM.
Any suggestions for an MP3 adaptor which plugs in, or a multichanger?
I tried a search and was confused with the jargon between Sony and Fisher Price - is it the Fisher Price unit I have?
I should make it clear that I want to keep the original HU for appearance, security, and resale. But how can I connect my iPhone / a Hard Drive / a Multichanger without it costing the earth?
I've looked on ebay and had a google but found very little, and what I did find didn't make the distinction between models.
Cheers!
I don't think any of those things can be done with the original unit. I replaced mine, boxed up the one that came with the car and put it in the loft. If I sell on, I'll put the Toyota head unit back in and keep the aftermarket one for flea-bay/a mate/another car.
For what it's worth, I found that a better quality aftermarket replacement made a 'night and day' difference to sound quality in the car (to my ears). I also added an iPod kit to the unit I bought. The Toyota unit is a standard double-DIN fitting, and can be replaced with a similar aftermarket unit or a single DIN plus storage pocket. Have a search in this part of the forum to find the details for the bits you need if you decide to go down this road.
Can't help on options, other than change the head unit. You could always put it back on re-sale.
And yes, you have the "Fisher Price", the nickname for the Toyota branded one. Made by one of those Japanese firms beginning with M, IIRC. The Sony was pre03.
Toyota did a multichanger as an option (I think), so there are sockets at the back - though you might have to sort that for a non-Toyota product.
Thanks for the replies guys. I'll have a look around for something subtle.
Sorry, another stupid newbie question - do I have "active speakers" ?
I think the answer is "no".
Active speakers don't need an amp to power them, but I would think the HU provides that in the car set-up.
Electrical whiz may contradict me.
Quote from: "Thudd"I should make it clear that I want to keep the original HU for appearance, security, and resale. But how can I connect my iPhone / a Hard Drive / a Multichanger without it costing the earth?
I've looked on ebay and had a google but found very little, and what I did find didn't make the distinction between models.
Cheers!
I'm thinking about one of these to connect an iPhone.
http://www.my-io.com/Products/iOPLAY.aspx
They seem to be fairly cheap on eBay.
Quote from: "roger"I think the answer is "no".
Active speakers don't need an amp to power them, but I would think the HU provides that in the car set-up.
Electrical whiz may contradict me.
Spot on Roger. Active speakers are usually spoken about with regard to subwoofers as these are power hungry beasts that normally require additional amplification. This is either achieved using a seperate amp, or a neat all in one package. They still need a power feed.
The OEM speakers are powered from the internal amp on the head unit.
Quote from: "Thudd"Sorry, another stupid newbie question - do I have "active speakers" ?
no roadster did biut they were an option on the mk2 which is probably whereteh confusion comes from
in mk2 land an active speaker is so termed because an amp is hidden somewhere in teh car
This maybe?MP3- tape adaptor
(http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/bryanstorm-2008/037.jpg)
Quote from: "life of bryan"This maybe?MP3- tape adaptor
(http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/bryanstorm-2008/037.jpg)
He won't have a tape on his Fisher Price though.
I have bought a Harman Kardon Drive + Play, with a wired FM input through the aerial.
About £35 on fleabay or BigPockets. Just need to decide where to site the display unit and find time to fit it.
The IO Play looks really good
m http://www.amazon.co.uk/Play-Innovative ... ZPZNM5YTND (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Play-Innovative-Bluetooth-Streaming-Compatible/dp/B0015U6ETK/ref=pd_cp_ce_2?pf_rd_p=136153791&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B001JFF9MO&pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_r=0D84211MXFZPZNM5YTND) m
£65 from Amazon, tho the bluetooth adaptor for iPhone is £40.
There's an IO Connect which is only £40 but you can't skip tracks from it:
m http://www.amazon.co.uk/CONNECT-UNIVERS ... 697&sr=1-2 (http://www.amazon.co.uk/CONNECT-UNIVERSAL-AUDIO-STREAMING-CAR/dp/B001TEI3K0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1240313697&sr=1-2) m
Do I remember reading there's a standard ISO connector hidden under the carpet which I could just plug this into?
Quote from: "Thudd"Do I remember reading there's a standard ISO connector hidden under the carpet which I could just plug this into?
Nope - you will need a Toyota to ISO adapter. Only the pre-03 UK cars had the adapter as standard with the Sony HU
Quote from: "life of bryan"This maybe?MP3- tape adaptor
(http://i370.photobucket.com/albums/oo149/bryanstorm-2008/037.jpg)
I've just received my tape deck adaptor - it plays the song on my mp3 player for 2seconds, then keeps spitting the tape back out?!
Something Im doing wrong there?? Or have I just found another fault in my stereo??
Quote from: "SteveJ"Nope - you will need a Toyota to ISO adapter. Only the pre-03 UK cars had the adapter as standard with the Sony HU
Bah s:( :( s:(
That means I'll also need an ISO to Toyota adaptor. By the time i've finished it'd be as cheap to pay the Halfrauds fitting s:( :( s:(
Anyone tried a DICE Silverline on a facelift stereo? Looks like it just plugs in the changer socket.
Hi
Connects2 (http://www.connects2.com) do two intefaces that fit the fisher price, I have the simple two phono one that then plugs in throught he headphone socket, appears as a single disk autochanger CD1-1, it came out of my old avensis which had the same matsushita plugs. To fit you simply unplug the 12 pin connector, which you can do without removing the head unit from the passenger footwell, the wires are long enough that the interface box sits in the glovebox in mine. Alternatively they do an ipod interface as well for more money.
Paul
Cheers. I've been on there before - I can't find how to buy anything! Dreadful website. They list Halfords as a supplier, but Halfords don't list the products on their website.
now I have had time to pul the velcro'ed unit out the model code is a VTYX001. I bought mine a few years ago, but after a quick re-search with the model number you could try here http://www.caraudioplus.co.uk
Cheers
Inspired by the guide kindly posted by Nips http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=31&t=25488 I have ordered an IO Connect and a Connects 2 CT10TY02 from Low Cost Car Audio http://www.lowcostcaraudio.co.uk/lcca/4148/mia/d/connects2+ct10ty02+toyota+land+cruiser+2003+t+harness/pid/9831360
Hope thats the right kit. Seems simple enough to fit.
10x8.5x2.4cm orange box, reckon I can squeeze that into the gap in the carpet under the dash.
(http://im.edirectory.co.uk/p/4148/i/ioconnect.jpg)
You could do what i did install a parrot kit or simlar this will let you retain your factory HU + give you an iPod connection that charges any ipod iphone, USB & AUX and gives you bluetooth, you get a wireless button to control the unit and the volume is independent from the factory HU so you never need to touch it
m http://www.parrot.com/uk/products/hands-free-car-kits (http://www.parrot.com/uk/products/hands-free-car-kits) m
if you need anymore info let me know
MKI9100
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg172/Nips_19/MR2/DSC_0027.jpg)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg172/Nips_19/MR2/DSC_0020.jpg)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg172/Nips_19/MR2/DSC_0022.jpg)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg172/Nips_19/MR2/DSC_0023.jpg)
(http://i248.photobucket.com/albums/gg172/Nips_19/MR2/DSC_0025.jpg)
That looks like a great, discrete install.
But i've already spent my £30 and ordered the IO Connect. The wire arrived the next day!
Do you remember if it goes straight into the HU or is there another connector further down?
I've not really meddled with my "good" car before, it's usually been an old Golf or Beetle, while leaving the expensive one alone, so i'm paranoid about bggering it up s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'm such a Noob s:( :( s:(
I can't find where to plug the adaptor in - help!
There's two plugs in the RHS of the driver footwell by the ODBC socket which look about the right size, everthing else under there is too small.
There are 3 plugs in the back of the head unit but they're tiny. The other plug thing under there just looks wrong
Any suggestions? HELP! s:D :D s:D
Right. I've searched the forum like mad, been on Spyderchat, the lot. I can't sort this.
It's an 04 Plate roadster, so presumably Fisher Price.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010669.jpg)
I've bought the adaptor:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010670.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010672.jpg)
Looking behind the dash clearly the plugs on the HU don't match. That's OK because I need to follow the wires to find the main Toyota loom, not the sub loom.
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010668.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010664.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010660.jpg)
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010654.jpg)
Is it the connectors to the left on the last pic? If so I have the wrong adaptor.
Alternatively, does the wire vanish under the carpet into the transmission tunnel?
Really can't sort it.
Epic Fail.
All help gratefully received.
Fag lighter now reconnected s;) ;) s;)
I can see i'm going to have to dismantle the dash or pay someone to do it s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010674.jpg)
Grey plug is the T cable. White plug is out the back of the top of the head unit.
Do I just have the wrong cable? Giving up now.
Quote from: "Thudd"(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/P1010674.jpg)
Grey plug is the T cable. White plug is out the back of the top of the head unit.
Do I just have the wrong cable? Giving up now.
It looks right I think, will the grey bit plug into the back of the stero and will the white bit plug into a socket on the lead ?
It would if the plug from the back of the Head Unit didn't have an extra 2 pins at the bottom - if you look, the cable I was supplied is asymmetrical.
Yes just spotted that, if you rotated one of them then they'd look the same apart from the extra 2 bits on the white bit
Pic matches the Connects2 website tho.
(https://www.connects2.co.uk/images/prodimages/prodview/CT10TY02.jpg)
Unless I need to get CT10TY01 the and plug it in to the lower section of the HU instead?
(http://www.connects2.com/images/prodimages/prodview/CT10TY01.jpg)
Looks similar to the two plugs nearer the driver (ignoring the plug nearest the passenger/aerial lead) on the lower section.
What I mean is, have I got completely the wrong wire?
Obviously I can't see the pins on the above very well, and on paper looks like it should be the CT10TY02.
dude, relax, we can sort this out.
yes i fitted a fisher price unit this afternoon. yes it is the same as the one shown in your pics, so we have the same model.
from looking at it, im not convinced you have the right wire. that grey thing looks odd.
firstly the one that comes from the car that you eventually connect to is the one that just disappears as you described it. dont take out or connect any plugs that are not connected to the old unit
will be back with an update shortly - baby screaming!
yep. having looked at it. the wire is wrong (from what i can tell on the pics.)
If this is the back of the HU:
(http://i190.photobucket.com/albums/z173/Thudd_photo/wiring/hu.jpg)
Should I be trying to plug into socket 1 with one cable (ie CT10TY02), or sockets 2 & 3 with a split cable (ie CT10TY01)?
You have brought a T Harness, you need a CT20TY02 wiring harness
do you have two blocks behind the Head unit or one?
I can supply you the right cables if you want, let me know
But don't I need a T harness for an IO Connect? It acts like a hands free kit.
It plugs inline with ISO connectors and sits between the car and head unit. It's got a built in amp and interrupts connection when it receives a signal from the MP3 player. So I need a T Harness.
I wanted something invisible so I could leave the hood down s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
CT20 looks to have the correct socket tho - have I been sent the wrong cable on the CT10?
Edit: Ignore me, they're the same.
I am convinced that the C10TY02 T Harness doesn't fit the roadster. Has anyone used one successfully?
Nips, if you have a T-Harness for an 04, i'm interested. Local car audio place is saying they don't exist and they'd need to make one up s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Next stop: Halfrauds.
Halfords say no wiring available.
Looks like I'll be getting one made then.
Found this pic of the back of a fisher price. This isn't mine but is the same model.
(http://i74.photobucket.com/albums/i251/draggon01/IMG_0177.jpg)
As you can see, socket is different s:( :( s:(
Hi, my car is a 2001 so i used a CT10TY01 i have a sony standard radio, some facelift cars have the old wiring so this must be the case with yours you will have to try a CT10TY01 the CT10TY02 does fit as ive installed them in a 2005 Roadster with the same standard HU u have.
I can supply you one delivered for
£10.58 sent royal mail 1st class standard
or
£15.64 Next working day
Let me know
Cheers - that's a good price.
Trying to sort out an exchange on the existing cable first, if no joy i'll give you a call.
Thanks for your help on this. Frikkin nightmare s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "Thudd"Cheers - that's a good price.
Trying to sort out an exchange on the existing cable first, if no joy i'll give you a call.
Thanks for your help on this. Frikkin nightmare s:D :D s:D
ok no probs
Update! With the the right cable (cheers!) twas a doddle.
Pulled the two drivers side plugs out of the bottom bank, plugged in the T-Harness, plugged the IO Connect into that, powered it up, winner.
Observations:
It works well, but it's not loud. It's audible, but not loud. Fine with the roof and windows up, otherwise... hmmm.
iPhone distorts at full volume through the headphone socket. Better (no distortion) through the line out on the ipod dock but still too quiet.
My old Creative Zen is a lot better so that's had a new lease of life.
So not sure what to do now. It's fine for listening to pod casts in traffic, but when out for a blast I think i'll still be using the CD.
I could buy a powered ipod line out eg the Kensington Liquidaux and use it as a pre-amp, but I'm not planning to spend any more money on it. Think I'll keep it for a while then maybe look at head units after xmas or something.
Anyone got any better ideas? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
glad you got it sorted in the end.
i personally would recommend a new hu. i started years back with a connects2 system, it was good but it was a pain trying to select what to play.
the alpine 9850i or modern equivalent was a most splendid beast. full control of your ipod via the hu. great sound quality too. cost about 170 delivered and again a doddle to fit.
start saving!! plus better speakers will help. you dont have to go mad with a pair of rainbows, but something mid range will give you a huge sound boost. finally as i just mentioned on another thread, get some dynomat or other sound proofing material in your door linings (and anywhere else it will fit) this will make a big difference too.
E
Has anyone tried the CTATYIPOD003 available from Connects2?
m http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx? ... &modID=554 (http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx?catID=27&manID=232&modID=554) m
Tempted to give it a try, but can't seem to find any information on the device at all.
Quote from: "sonixtorm"Has anyone tried the CTATYIPOD003 available from Connects2?
m http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx? ... &modID=554 (http://www.connects2.com/c2search.aspx?catID=27&manID=232&modID=554) m
Tempted to give it a try, but can't seem to find any information on the device at all.
try the post 2 entries above this one s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "enid_b"i personally would recommend a new hu. i started years back with a connects2 system, it was good but it was a pain trying to select what to play.
Quote from: "enid_b"try the post 2 entries above this one s:D :D s:D
Can't seem to find anything in this thread or the board on the CTATYIPOD003 - ...01 and ...02 seem to be mentioned here. Looks like the ...03 allows direct CD-changer style integration, but even a search on google only turns up the Connects2 website, which provides next to no information. I've emailed them and will see what they come back with.
Quote from: "sonixtorm"Quote from: "enid_b"try the post 2 entries above this one s:D :D s:D
Can't seem to find anything in this thread or the board on the CTATYIPOD003 - ...01 and ...02 seem to be mentioned here. Looks like the ...03 allows direct CD-changer style integration, but even a search on google only turns up the Connects2 website, which provides next to no information. I've emailed them and will see what they come back with.
TBH, there ok but very minimal control, the way they work is it tricks your HU to think you have a changer given you 6 playlist/discs, the problem is you can't see what your playing unless you can see you ipod. you also can't use your ipod when its connected.
Best ipod solution IMO is parrots MKi series or IO play
The tape to aux connection people are using produces less quality than radio and in some cases will give you mono sound depending on what recording quality your songs are.
Quote from: "Nips"TBH, there ok but very minimal control, the way they work is it tricks your HU to think you have a changer given you 6 playlist/discs, the problem is you can't see what your playing unless you can see you ipod. you also can't use your ipod when its connected.
Best ipod solution IMO is parrots MKi series or IO play
Thanks for this Nips - useful to know. I need to get something sorted - really limiting with just the single CD s:) :) s:)
I can't understand why it's so quiet. It's supposed to be a 60w Class D (ie "power") amp.
My Arcam P90 in the house is only 90w and that could knock walls down.
I think the problem is that the output from the iPod is too quiet through the headphone socket. It's maybe 10% better through the dock , but it needs to be twice as loud imo.
Bah. I shall choke down the urge to turn it up and scrape together some pennies for a better solution.
Only real chance I get to play music is in the car these days.
IO Play seems to be the same basic amp btw, just with a bluetooth receiver bolted on the front.
Quote from: "Thudd"I can't understand why it's so quiet. It's supposed to be a 60w Class D (ie "power") amp.
My Arcam P90 in the house is only 90w and that could knock walls down.
I think the problem is that the output from the iPod is too quiet through the headphone socket. It's maybe 10% better through the dock , but it needs to be twice as loud imo.
Bah. I shall choke down the urge to turn it up and scrape together some pennies for a better solution.
Only real chance I get to play music is in the car these days.
If your using aux then you will have to use the volume control on the ipod to
Ive heard these with the bluetooth adaptor connected to the ipod and they do sound really good, better than most aftermarket HU
They give 60 watts RMS
most aftermarket HU only give 20 watts RMS
and standard less than that
iPod distorts at over 80% vol using the headphone socket.
With the dock it was louder but still quiet. Say 1/3 the volume of the head unit.
CTATYIPOD001 plugged into HU and loom, IO Connect into the T harness, mp3 plugged in using their cable straight into the orange box.
Only difference in the IO Play is the bluetooth adaptor box which all the inputs go through. Presumably that is amping a bit.
Apparently it's throttling because the rear channels are open and I need to fit a SOT-iO2S or mod the wiring.
Found this on another forum which matches the response from IO support.
"n order to rectify this, you will need to close the open circuited channels, this can either be done by purchasing part number SOT-iO2S as a plug and play component, alternatively, if you feel confident enough to do so, you can adapt the iO harness directly. If you feel that this is something you could achieve, the please do the following;
1. Go to the iO harness ISO socket which accepts the vehicles plugs (not the iO's ISO plugs that go to the stereo).
2. You will see that the vehicle has no wires opposite the 2 outer pairs of speaker wires (GREEN, GREEN/BLACK, PURPLE & PURPLE/BLACK)
3. Locate the GREEN and the GREEN/BLACK wires on the speaker socket and cut these directly at the back of the ISO socket.
4. Bare the ends of these wires and bridge them together, either by solder and shield, through bullet connections or via a Butt connector.
5. Locate the PURPLE and the PURPLE/BLACK wires on the speaker socket and again, cut these directly at the back of the ISO socket.
6. Bare the ends of these wires and bridge them together, either by solder and shield, through bullet connections or via a Butt connector.''"
Is there any way I could wire in the rears instead? I am thinking of buying a terminal strip and using it to terminate / bridge wires in such a way that this is not an irreversible modification.
Update : made the 2channel mod (10 mins) - it rocks!
Decent enough sound, loud enough, cost 40quid plus postage. Winner.
Right I'm a bit stuck with my I/O Play...
The car lead that goes into the back of my Sony WX-C570R is totally different from the connections on the I/O box which uses a larger square shaped one.
I need a female stock connection <-> male 'square' connection
AND
a male 'square' connection <-> female stock connection
does anybody have a clue what I need?
If it's the stock pre-facelift Sony HU then read the thread - I think you need a CT10TY01 T Harness as above.
Otherwise you need a different T Harness to provide ISO connectors for the IO Play, and plug in between the car loom and the HU.
got them ordered anyway, cheers
Once i'd stopped being an utter plank it was really easy to install.
Bit light on bass with the stock speakers, but otherwise does a sterling job.
Did you order the other adaptor cable / modify the IO wiring loom?