Hi Peepz,
Driving home from work today i noticed my engine light had come on but everything felt fine so carried on regardless.
Drove a further 1/2 mile in heavy traffic and noticed the engine revving up between 2-3k on its own then down to 1k then back up again all the time!!! Pulled over to have a look but everything seemed fine in the engine bay s:? :? s:? so i started it back up and again revving itself! Eventually after being driven home by my 2 (probably not the best thing to do but there wasnt much choice in the matter) s:oops: :oops: s:oops: got home and left it a couple of hours. Just been out to check again and it began to rev but after a second start it was just idleing all over the place. Anyone had this or a similar problem before???
thanks
Ben.
sounds like you need to clean your MAF sensor,5 minute job just do a search to find guide.
Before you start messing with anything, find someone local with a code reader and find out what caused the CEL.
Yeah i will have to get the code sorted first, im thinking electrical might be where im headed though s:| :| s:| as for the maf it shouldnt be a problem as i cleaned it 2weeks ago. Still cant understand how the thing can rev itself though it was exactly the same as if i was revving it via the throttle!
Sounds like the idle control might have gone haywire - that could do precisely what you describe, so I wouldn't mind betting the CEL will be something to do with the idle air valve.. But, best to get it checked first - as you say, it could be an electrical fault and maybe the CEL will give a hint as to where.
(OK, technically the idle air valve is an electrical item.. but you know what I mean..)
Well to be honest i hope it is that, might be getting the code checked tommorrow will have wait and see!
my revs sometimes fluctuate when I break at lights - clutch depressed of course, and I just got a cel - reckon it could be same?
its possible yeah but until we both have a code its little bit hard to say for sure. My fluctuates were more like sombody stomping on the accelerator as soon as it hit the 1k mark straight back up to 3k over and over, got quite a few funny looks from people next to me though s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Yeah seems to be hunting, I've had it a few times over the years on k series engines. Think I changed Idle Control Valve, IVAC or something or other, works out about £20 to £50 for part and then straight swap over. Might even be a sticky throttle body though...
Sometimed if you blip it a little while stationary it may start behaving again, that is until you set off again.
At home all day in Braintree if you want the code read.
O ritey, it all seems to be pointing at the iac *whew* dont really wanna drive it at the moment but thanks for the offer Liz. Think i got someone coming to read it tommorrow anyways s:) :) s:) and if not think i will just take the TB off and have ago meself. Thanks for all the advice by the way
I had the same happen to me just after I cleaned the MAF last time. Took it back out - looked it over, put it back in and it was fine - so no idea what the problem was but it sorted itself out. Once you have the code then you can start digging.
Hey, Just had the code read P0505 idle control system malfunction. Gonna check all me pipes to start then maybe look around the TB again(third time i will of had it out s:| :| s:| ) Any thoughts are welcome s:) :) s:)
All seems to be pointing towards the IAC doesn't it. I didn't know it could trigger a CEL s:oops: :oops: s:oops: - I've seen a few driving round like this with nothing other than hunting idle suggesting something amiss.
New part is horribly expensive (circa 300 notes), so worth stripping down the TB and cleaning it out. Don't forget to clamp up the two coolant hoses before taking it off s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
A more pathetic plan B is to squirt some carb cleaner into the intake to see if it clears the crud...... don't go mad though as you don't want to dry out the IAC bearings.
P0505:
Open or short in IAC valve circuit
IAC valve is stuck or closed
Open or short in A/C switch circuit
Air induction system
ECM
Quote from: "roger"Open or short in A/C switch circuit
Is that A/C as in Air-con? (having a blonde moment). Is that how the idle revs are adjusted when you flick in the AC clutch?
Learning all the time here s8) 8) s8)
Quote from: "spit"Quote from: "roger"Open or short in A/C switch circuit
Is that A/C as in Air-con? (having a blonde moment). Is that how the idle revs are adjusted when you flick in the AC clutch?
Learning all the time here s8) 8) s8)
Yes, and guess so. BGB refers to page AC-84, which I don't seem to have!
300 notes s:shock: :shock: s:shock: im thinking maybe go to a scrappy and see how much they want for a new tb including the iac. My 2 doesnt have ac by the way. s:) :) s:) i was told the other day that its possible a collapsed breather pipe could cause all kinds of trouble including bad idle and oil consumption whether its true i don't know but worth a check i guess!
Thread revival! My car has been idling lower than usual when cold with fluctuating revs then up to 1500rpm idle when the engine is warm. A code of P0505 has appeared.
Has anyone got a picture of the TB or a how to on the fix?
Thanks in advance.
Best to take the throttle body off the car to do this one.
Remove the inlet pipe from the airbox. Disconnect the two rubber hoses that go to the throttle body. (You'll loose a little coolant, but not much and you can top up afterwards). Disconnect the throttle cable by rotating the quadrant and popping the nipple out. There are two elctrical connectors to remove. The throttle body is held on by two nuts and two bolts, all with 12 mm heads.
When it's on the bench you will see the idle air control valve (close up in one of the pics). You will need a five-point security torx bit to undo the screws. Don't use carb cleaner on it. Open it up and clean and lube with spray lube. It has to to rotate freely, and they do get sticky over time, once it's moving freely, put it all back together.
While the throttle body is on the bench give the whole thing a good clean and lube. You can use carb cleaner on it, just keep it away from rubber bits.
A fiddly job requiring patience. Not one for a beginner.
As C says.
One thing to add. Mark the position of the IAC cap before removing the 5pt Torx screws. The holes are slotted and a slight mismatch on reassembly can send the IAC into a bizarre spinning frenzy. I only know this cos its happened to me a couple of times. s:oops: :oops: s:oops: I guess this is why they used security fastenings on assembly.
If you decide to go one further and access the valve itself you'll need a very close-fitting screwdriver on each of the four retaining screws - they're steel in alloy, they take some cracking and the heads can mush up really easily. Once off, be careful with the shaped rubber seal that separates your air and coolant channels. Its v fragile.
Got 5pt torx here if you need them Steve.
Good advice from Spit
A used throttle body will need a going-through before you fit it, so might as well service the one you've got?
Maybe go for a big bore throttle body. Cheaper than a new one and will have a guarantee.
Thanks Carolyn and Spit. I think I have some 5py Torx. Will take a look when I get a chance.
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