Fast Idle Test: FAIL
CO Level = 0.02% PASS (min - max 0.30)
HC Level = 44ppm PASS (min - max 200)
Lamda = 1.34% FAIL (min 0.97 max 1.03)
Second Fast Idle Test: FAIL
CO Level = 4.64% FAIL (min - max 0.30)
HC Level = 107ppm PASS (min - max 200
Lambda = 0.89 FAIL (min 0.97 max 1.03)
Natural Idle Test PASS
CO Level 0.43% PASS (min - max 0.50)
Specifications.
Power Enterprise Turbo
Innovate Wideband Kit
I also have banks 1 and 2 running too lean (PO171 and PO174) so assume I need a new O2 Sensor, I previously swapped out the MAF with the wifes (wifes car has no problems with mine in it) I have changed a few hoses incase of vac leaks etc.. at least this is what I was thinking untill the mechanic enquired why I had an o2 sensor not connected into the manifold. I told him this was because I had the wideband kit fitted and the signal wasn't being used but the sensor heater circuit was required. (I know some of you have fitted a resistor) the mechanic thinks that to be strange, but admits it is something he hasn't had a lot of dealings with. and thinks the o2 sensor is sending a signal back to the ECU saying all it is reading is oxygen.
Before I go spending my hard earned cash on a couple of sensors, why is this o2 sensor not connected into the manifold?.. Was I right.. is it because I have the wideband, or should it still be in the manifold? is the Lambda FAIL caused by this sensor? If I posted the live data from my code reader will help get to the bottom of it?
You're right that the only purpose of the unconnected O2 is to avoid a heater circuit CEL.
The reason for only one O2 in the system is that you're reading both banks combined (post-turbo). Trying to tell the ECU that it still has separate banks from a combined exhaust gas is at best lumpy and at worst piston-melting temperatures s:shock: :shock: s:shock: (having learned the hard way s:oops: :oops: s:oops: ).
Your O2 feed to the ECU is joined up in the harness, so the ECU is seeing both 'banks' the same.
The dangling sensor is contributing nothing to the ECU voltage - its reading air which equates to a voltage of bugger all !
Just as I though then, thanks Ste... I guess I only need 1 new o2 sensor then (as I'm not getting the heater circuit error) I might just swap them over... IE,, unplug the one from the manifold and swap it for the dangler (ooh err lol) and see what happens.
QuoteYour O2 feed to the ECU is joined up in the harness, so the ECU is seeing both banks the same.
I take it by that you mean the wires are joined together as it enters the ECU making banks 1 and 2 into the one.
I'm trying to understand what happens to the o2 reading from the dangling sensor.. I take it the signal has been disabled in some way leaving just the heater side of it operational?.. only asking so I can explain it to the mechanic.
Quote from: "VVT-i"I take it by that you mean the wires are joined together as it enters the ECU making banks 1 and 2 into the one.
Yep that's correct.
I can't recall if the guys snipped your loose O2 signal and ground wires (blue and white) but you'll be able to confirm that. I don't think they did as I told them it wasn't necessary .... but you know Si and his passion for snipping things s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Try a swap-over. The melting problem with 2 sensors reading the same stream arises when the O2s are mismatched as mine were - so the ECU trims each bank in opposite directions, gets to extremes and sends the engine into apoplexy.
Under the one-sensor system, I get "too rich" CELs if I use the 'wrong' one of my O2 sensors ..... using the other is fine. Might work for you too?
As for getting all emissions readings the same for MOT - its a black art - the crossover point where all are aligned is a very limited window s:? :? s:?
OK.. I've swapped over the o2 sensors (just unpluged them both and straight swap over) I've reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery (now idleing like a bag of bolts untill it learns lol) I will take it a run when I get time to, hopefully once it's all settled the CEL won't come back.
As for this black art.... clean the MAF then take the car for a good thrashing to get things nice and hot imeadiately before the test seems to be the way to find this window of opperchancity (well.. according to search anyway lol)
Re-test day was today..................... Passed this time s:) :) s:)
nice one!
mine has its retest today once they've replaced both manifold sensors...fingers crossed as I leave for france this evening and driving to edinburgh will be hard without a car
My woes have returned s:( :( s:(
I have swapped over the O2 sensors, swapped the MAF with the one from the wifes car (wife has no CEL, so maf is fine) I have changed most of the vac hoses in an attempt to rule out a leak... but still got the same problem of the car running to lean.
So today I took the car to a local jap specialist (Hypertech in Bonnybridge) who have a very good reputation,( m http://www.hypertechscotland.co.uk/ (http://www.hypertechscotland.co.uk/) m ) the guy there has had a quick look at it on the rollers, he was going to do a couple of gentle runs to check the AFR's and then do a power run, but he isn't at all happy with the AFR's so no power run for the time being. I have left the car with him so he can check it again in the morning when the engine is cold.. but the car is running way too lean on anything other than light to moderate throttle, it starts off ok then quickly leans out. I may need to have it re-mapped.
Tomorrow I will pop up with the emanage software... yes I know, if he doesn't have the software I shouldn't let him map it, but he wants it to check things over so he can get a better Idea of exactly what's going on, then in a few days he has someone who can map the emanage coming in and will get him to look at my car, it could be a simple tweek or a full re-map. He knows the guys down at Nobles but says on this occasion something isn't right with it, as soon as I get more of whats happening I'll post up with it.
Just glad I haven't tracked the car or pushed it really hard, I've only had the odd burst of throttle so the wife can tell me to behave s:lol: :lol: s:lol: , which hasn't been long enough for me to notice the AFR's leaning out.
Looks like I need a new Inlet Manifold as mine has a hairline crack, I also need a re-map or a tweek, any Ideas of the best place to buy the inlet manifold.. been quoted £270 from Mr. T s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I was hoping I;d have one from my recent donor engine but alas it was fubared in shipping, speak to dyno evo, he may have one knocking around from his old pre v6 swap engine
Thanks Mark.. Pm sent.. but...
Found this on ebay, thoughts?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/124-2005-Toyota-MR2-Inlet-Manifold_W0QQitemZ360173552208QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item53dc044250&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14&_trkparms=65%3A12|66%3A2|39%3A1|72%3A1683|293%3A1|294%3A50#ebayphotohosting
That's what i paid for my spare!
bargain, I sold my last one for double that
A spare?????... now you tell me!! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Went ahead and bought the ebay one, fingers crossed all is good with it.