How To Guide - Stealth Sub Install
I've been looking around for a good but small sub I can use in the MR2 that doesn't cost a fortune and still leaves my rear bin storage in place. I couldn't find any pics of installs so I thought I'd post up my own guide. First of all go buy one of these.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/1_Amp.jpg)
Its a Blaupunkt 200A active Sub. Its about 70w RMS so its got decent power but its small enough just to fit in the passenger bin floor. At £100 new its cheaper than the other options. The Boss 600 is more powerful but too big, the Pioneer underseat active sub fits but costs £160!
So first Job is to remove the rear passenger bin. Really easy this, you just need a 10m socket, and a phillips screwdriver. Put the seats forward open both bin doors. Remove the passenger bin lid held in with 3x 10mm bolts. Next remove the two rear bolts with the screwdriver. The side panel just pops off. Once thats done the bin will lift out. So you have it to take in the house and work on...
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/2_Bin.jpg)
Next job is to make an MDF base for the sub as its very slightly too long (okay I lied its not an exact fit) I cut out an mdf rectangle 330mm x 220mm using 9mm MDF, 12mm would have been better though. In the pic you can see I added flashing tape to help deaden any vibration from the sub. The gap down the middle is needed.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/3_base.jpg)
However before you put the tape on you need to drill the holes to mount it too the amp and counter sink them so the bolts are level with the MDF. I forgot and the flashing tape is a bit messy to drill s:-( :-( s:-( The amp holes are 150mm apart by 310mm. Also I drilled a hole in the middle of the MDF and counter sunk it so I could bold the MDF into the base of the bin. I just used one bolt for this as its a bugger to line up with the amp being a snug fit. The Straps in the bin are useful to keep the amp secure too. Finally drill some holes on the front right hand side to allow the power and RCA wires through.
So 30mins later one amp mounted in the bin..
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/4_Amp_In.jpg)
Next bit its back to the MR2.
The wiring you get with the amp is not that useful, sure the wires are long enough but the positive has no fuse at the battery end. Thats a real bad idea. So I ran my own thick fused red and black power leads I got with an amp wiring kit and then used a terminal block to connect them to the wiring from the sub. This is probably the most tricky bit. As you can see in the photo below the rubber seal which is just to the top right of the bin allows access to the engine bay, the wiring runs through here to the battery. You can just see the silicone I used to reseal it. I didn't need to take the battery out to pull them through as my arms are pretty thin for a guy.
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/5_wiring.jpg)
Heres the battery side, with the 10amp fuse for safety. Put the fuse in last!
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/6_battery.jpg)
Okay power dealt with next job is to run the RCA leads from the amp to the Head Unit. I didn't get photos of this but its real easy, the wire just pops under the trim by the door sill and then under the passenger foot well carpet and into the back of the HU. You don't need to run a remote wire, this sub actually senses the audio on the RCA and powers up automatically. The MR2 is great for getting at the Head Unit rear, I didn't even need to remove it.
Once the wirings done, next I tied up any excess and refitted the bin in place, don't screw it in yet though...
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/7_amp_installed.jpg)
Now put the fuse in and give it a try. I had the sub set at just over 1/2 volume and it was too loud! The gain
control on the sub is a bit tricky to get at so you may need to lift the bin out. Once it sounds good you can screw the bin and door back into place and add that side panel..
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b198/m03ppz00/Toyota%20MR2/8_alldone.jpg)
And thats pretty much it, the sub sounds better with the doors on and its out of sight of any thieving pikey's. Its works really well with my fronts, my door rattled badly went I put anything under 100hz to the fronts, the sub frees them up to deal with the mids and highs nicely.
David
Nice write up! Thank you!!! Been considering getting a smiliar stealth sub for a while now!
What HU do you use and what front speakers?
Thanks,
Looks really neat, just make sure you keep the drains clear. Does the system use any current from the battery when it's switched off?
Does anyone know, would one of these fit under the passenger seat?
nope, theres not enough clearance
Quote from: "cclarke99"Looks really neat, just make sure you keep the drains clear. Does the system use any current from the battery when it's switched off?
So far so good, but I'll keep you posted. My 2 is driven every other day if you have one that stands for weeks on end might be a prob.
Quote from: "JiMR2"Nice write up! Thank you!!! Been considering getting a smiliar stealth sub for a while now!
What HU do you use and what front speakers?
Thanks,
I have focal 6.5" components in the front (£100 new) My HU is a pioneer double DIN unit but I recon any decent kenwood or the like unit would do the trick. All it needs is 50w peak per channel output, a RCA sub out and ideally a low pass/high pass filter to separate the bass to the sub and mid highs to the fronts.
Great write up. Ive actually just been looking to buy this same sub, although i was also looking at this m http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/index.php? ... ts_id=8784 (http://www.wilcodirect.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_65&products_id=8784) m (gota love wilco - this is £150+ everywhere else)
I have a few questions. Im not hugely knowledgable when it comes to audio so please forgive. Basicly im looking to buy some door speakers and a small compact sub that gives a nice bass (mostly kick) - I have the standard mrS (1999) double din cd/radio/tape player - will this work or do i need to get a new cd player before any of this will work? what other peices of kit do I need to give the best outcome (cross overs etc) for the frequencys to be sent to the correct speakers/subs
Any help will be great!
thanks
Hi Jay
I have the Blaupunkt 200a - same as the one in the write up - the installation instructions are awesome and made it incredibly easy to carry out! The sub allows a bit more bass without sounding silly but i was really only able to tweak it to its full potential through my Pioneer HU.
IMHO i would upgrade the HU prior to anything else... I picked up mine for around £300 but it was a fancy all singing/dancing job so i could hook my iPhone up to it - rocks my world. Real easy job to fit as well after reading up a ton of posts on here + a great how to guide.
As good a price as the wilco thing appears to be, bear in mind you still need to get an amp and the quality of the subs might not be all that great as an unknown make... alternatively they could be awesome, wont know till you try...
I've just got a set of Focal cross over speakers off of Stargazer funnily enough and am thinking of amping those up to a 2ch amp ive got so will be looking to sell the active sub if your interested?
Pmed mate s:) :) s:) thank you for the help
I know this is an old thread but I'm resurrecting as it's relevant to me !
Firstly thanks for the write up Stargazer.
...and to answer Jaystar, you can now get fantastic iPhone friendly HUs from around £50.
My Alpine CD-less head unit has bluetooth connection to your phone for music, sub out, high pass and low pass filtering for all channels and cost £80 new from Halfrauds! s:) :) s:)