No this is not another, how do I swap my stock unit for a single DIN! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
I have had my 2 for a few weeks now and finally decided to swap out the 'fisher price' head unit for something with bluetooth and that would play MP3s, I settled on (could afford) the Clarion CX209E which is a double DIN unit. I didn't fancy taking the dash apart to fit facia adapters etc and wanted a slightly larger display (I also hate fiddly buttons) so the Double DIN looked ideal. s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
I have looked and through and searched the forums and how tos and found this (great guide btw)
l viewtopic.php?f=47&t=17670 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=17670) l
I have taken the silver and black side trims out (first two pics in link above), I then expected to fine a few bolts to remove and 'bob would be my uncle' BUT I have found two of the tightest x head screws in the world on each side (I can just get to these) and one more on each side that is behind the main support that I cannot get to s:? :? s:? .
I am coming to the conclusion that I am going to have to do what I did not want to do and resort to the full dash removal (well from pic 3 on the link at least)
Please give this your thoughts as I am mighty p****d off at the moment
Cheers
Ch
[MOD]naughty word removed[/MOD]
Seriously the MR2 is the easiest HU swap I've ever done (and I did a fair few!)
The side trims once clipped off reveal the screws that hold the stock HU and bracket in place. Your right they are way too tight so use a socket on them instead of a screw driver and you can get them out without threading the head. You'll see the screws are actually also the same shape as bolts. Once they are out the head unit and bracket will come out as long as you already removed the heater surround. Again use a socket on the bracket screws to take them off the stock HU as they are really really tight. Then you can use this bracket and the screws on the aftermarket HU you will fit.
Theres no need to remove the entire dash?
PS while you in there put a switch on the blue power ant wire to stop the ariel going up everytime you turn the radio on s8) 8) s8)
David
You do need to remove the heater controls/facia in order to get to the two top screws. Don't worry, it's really easy to do. The knobs just pull off and then there's two screws holding the facia on.
I don't recall the screws being tight when I did mine.
David/Dan
Thanks for the response
looks like the heater comrols are coming off then!!!!! so much for standard slide in with a coulple of screws to secure them!!!!!!
Job for next weekend I think
Cheers
Chris
Its not a big deal mate, it takes about 5 mins to remove the heater facia. Also I forgot to mention in the linked guide you don't need to take out the ash tray/cup holder section under the HU, that can stay in and the HU will come out no worries.
5 mins to remove the heater fascia.!? s:D :D s:D
More like 30 seconds...!?
Pull off the 3 rotarys, pull off the recirc button, undo the 2 screws, and pull it off...?
45 seconds, tops.....! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Dyn-Evo"5 mins to remove the heater fascia.!? s:D :D s:D
More like 30 seconds...!?
Pull off the 3 rotarys, pull off the recirc button, undo the 2 screws, and pull it off...?
45 seconds, tops.....! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Yeah but I included 3.5 mins to find the screw driver and unlock the car s:D :D s:D s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
s:D :D s:D Thats about right, then....