I just had my MRS 2000 roadster a few months and the engine blew. I got a replacement from Dewsbury Auto Breakers. They put in a 2006 23000miles mr2 engine. The engine light is still on they checked the system computer with OBS2 and another laptop one specially for imports and there are no faults. I do think the o2 sensors need changed and there is a small hole in the cat. Remembering that there are only 2 o2 sensors on mine as its an import.
The throttle control is very lame andnot great on acceleration. I plan to buy a stainless steel exhuast system and new o2 sensors.
Could anyone recommend the best ones to get for my situation, does it matter which o2 sensor i buy orcan any do?
Thanks i await your responses.
Rab
So no new cat put on then?
Engine light is on, but no fault codes?
Unlikely ... it'll be worth doing the paperclip trick mentioned elsewhere on the forum and see what codes YOU can find.
If the original manifold, cat, and exhaust were reconnected then chances are the precats may have collapsed and blocked the main cat.
Which will result in another blown engine if you don't sort it pronto.
How a company can push you out the door with an engine light on and struggling engine after taking your money off you for fitting the new engine is beyond me. That's just crap.
they cleaned the cats they said engine oil after 230miles is clean and engine is running smooth just the air intake affects the throttle. I need a full exhaust system right from manifold and new o2 sensors remember i only have 2 sensors not 4 which is on uk models tried the OBD2 readers import laptop readers and the paper clip but no response,.
They 'cleaned the cats'? For a start you only have one and they can't have cleaned it if you know it has a hole in it, I'll assume that the pre-cats have been removed from the manifold and there are only three O2 sensors in a UK car, not 4.
There's loads of threads on here which tell you exactly which O2 sensors to order, have a search for one.
There is a double cat from the manifold going to the silencer and one side has a fraid steel weave theres no holes just old, i only have 2 o2 sensors attahced on the heat shield.
That's not a double cat, they're the pre-cats. Trust me on this. s;) ;) s;)
One side of that has material in and the other one doesn't, you say?
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19412 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19412) l
From your posts you obviously don't know what your talking about
If you could put a location in your signature I am sure someone would help you
I have spare cats, sensors, manifolds etc, but seeing as I don't know where you are I don't see how I can help you s:? :? s:?
This is what i have i think, and the right side of the mesh cat is a bit old. can you get these in stainless steel with a exhaust system, Or does the stainless steel system go striaght from the manifold on the engine without any cats?
m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-1-8-03 ... 1e5938cb86 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-MR2-1-8-03-01-12-06-CATALYTIC-CONVERTER-CAT-/130345913222?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item1e5938cb86) m
What on earth are you on about? Go and read the pre-cat Sticky so you know what each part is called, then come back here and try again.
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yes part 62 the pre cat and main cat is old, dont know how old but i want to replace the full exhaust from engine manifold including the cats, i wonder if you can get a stainless steel cat system to go with the stainless exhaust?
Replace the main cat, it is blocked with oil and precat debris from your old engine. Your new engine will be fubared shortly if you don't.
Your garage is simply clueless.
It was Dewsbury Autosalavage and they swap engines and gear boxes every day they said they cleaned them out before fitting the new engine.
Yeah, okay. Because laggy throttle response isn't indicative of a blocked cat at all, and they're clearly so good that they leave your car with CELs...
Ah, in that case then you can continue to drive the car, as is, in full confidence.
Perhaps you should call your expert garage and book in for a new engine again in the near future, gives them time to source one.
With regard to your original question, I think you have a couple of options depending upon your budget.
1. Buy a Che type stainless manifold and a new or good second hand main cat and two 02 sensors (the Toyota ones are expensive but a search will show that others have used generic type ones which are much cheaper). Also a new or second hand rear exhaust section. (Apart from the manifold, the stock exhaust is stainless anyway).
This should resolve any issues with debris from the original engine failure.
2. The more expensive solution is to get someone to fit a bespoke system from scratch and to include the two new 02 sensors.
As already stated, you need to do this sooner rather than later to avoid further engine failure.
The throttle response problem is probably related but may be something as simple as a dirty MAF.
Quote from: "mrzwei"With regard to your original question, I think you have a couple of options depending upon your budget.
1. Buy a Che type stainless manifold and a new or good second hand main cat and two 02 sensors (the Toyota ones are expensive but a search will show that others have used generic type ones which are much cheaper). Also a new or second hand rear exhaust section. (Apart from the manifold, the stock exhaust is stainless anyway).
This should resolve any issues with debris from the original engine failure.
2. The more expensive solution is to get someone to fit a bespoke system from scratch and to include the two new 02 sensors.
As already stated, you need to do this sooner rather than later to avoid further engine failure.
The throttle response problem is probably related but may be something as simple as a dirty MAF.
Thanks my budget is £600 which would you go for?
Unless you are looking for increased performance then option one is a no brainer. The Che manifolds are cheap on ebay, as probably are the generic sensors (but CHECK first that they will work with the roadster). I don't know the costs for the other stuff but it may be worth putting a post in the wanted section on here for a stock exhaust system as loads of people have upgraded theirs through time.
I doubt that you would get a new, bespoke system for 600 squids.
how about this?
m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310256048298&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m this is the Manifold
m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130353313042&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m this is the cats
m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370428437464&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m this is the o2 sensors
m http://cgi.ebay.com/BLUE-FLAME-CAT-BACK ... 483bc45007 (http://cgi.ebay.com/BLUE-FLAME-CAT-BACK-EXHAUST-TOYOTA-MR2-MRS-ROADSTER-/310240366599?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item483bc45007) m this is the back box
What do you think?
Get toyota gaskets for the manifold, do not use the ones supplied, oh and he is talking bumkum claiming a min gain of 10bhp.
Pretty sure someone on here would sell you a stock exhaust for pennies if you are on a budget.
I fogot to mention i stopped the car which i heard the knocking in the old engine it never blew up so there shouldnt have been any dirty from the old one.
If you want a standard backbox (it doesn't have the tail trim but you can get something from Halfrauds to fit) I have one and am heading up to Carlisle next weekend.
To be clear with you, your backbox will likely be ok.
Your main catalyst sounds like it's blocked so you need a new one.
And you need a replacement manifold (Che is the best cheapest).
I looked at my Back box it looks ok and not rusted. But the pipes from that to the tail are a bit bad, i looked at the cats and they look ok apart from a bit wear on the pre cat weave. I think i might put it on a lift and double check everything. If my back box is ok i will look for other parts to fit round this. I will also check if any of my system is stainless as some might be stainless steel stock.
That manifold m http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vi ... _779wt_905 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=310256048298&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT#ht_779wt_905) m doesn't have the lower bracing points. Best to find one with those to attach to the bottom brackets on the engine or it's likely to crack. I don't like the look of the narrow pipework on those catalysts either ... a second hand one from another member would likely be better.
Sorry about appearing negative, but i would rather you got fair advice than just plumb ahead and get something sub-standard.
This one is used by many and is proven reliable with the lower mounts in place;
m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/00-07-Toyota-MR2- ... 2170wt_911 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/00-07-Toyota-MR2-MRS-ZZW30-Stainless-Exhaust-Manifold-/140460873583?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item20b41ed76f#ht_2170wt_911) m
But get the proper Toyota gaskets for it.
If your precats weave is looking degraded in any way then it's time to be rid of them, they may even be dropping apart at the trailing edge. I've also heard of two main cats recently that had collapsed and were breaking apart.
You've been offered a Toyota Catalyst in this thread, may I suggest you discuss terms with the chap?
Like I sead just before, if there's nothing wrong with your back box then why change it, but admittedly the Blueflame will be noisier s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
he was offering a back box not a cat.
Quote from: "Peter Wright"I have spare cats, sensors, manifolds etc, but seeing as I don't know where you are I don't see how I can help you s:? :? s:?
Thought Peter had offered one sorry, otherwise it appears you may be stuck with the ebay ones.
At least with a new cat you know it's not going to have possible contamination like the ones you can get from breakers s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Quote from: "Peter Wright"I have spare cats, sensors, manifolds etc, but seeing as I don't know where you are I don't see how I can help you s:? :? s:?
Thought Peter had offered one sorry,
Yes I have 2 spare JDM cats
The problem as I see it, is that you need to take the whole system off including the manifold and 02s, de cat the manifold and clean it out completely, put the manifold back then the 02s which are probably OK, then put a new cat in and use the old back box
You can have one of my cats for £50.00 + postage
Then as I see it you should be ok, after you have reset the ECU
Does this seem OK to everyone ?
Pete
Sounds fine to me and at £400 for a new cat its a good price too!!
No reason to use an after market manifold if you gut the original one
I wasn't going mad s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Sounds like a good option to me
Got my engine light sorted i took the convertor off the back of the clock cluster and put it back to oringinal factory wiring. So theres no problem with the engine.
I looked underneath today and saw that the cat from the 4-2 manifold 2-1 cat is needing replaced and the back box has some rust but the tail pipes are gone too.
So i need 1 manifold stainless, 1 good cat or new, 1 back box and tail pipe stainless and all the fittings and gaskets to go with it all. I am wanting to replace the whole lot with new but if a second hand cat will do which is in very good condition that would do. As for the o2 sensors there are 2 only into the main manifold as its an import mrs just 2 not 3 or 4 only 2. 4 wire ones too probably the ones which was on the car when it came out the factory.
Peter how good are your cats for £50 any rust or damage?
07877469893
no engine light still came back on, i checked the maf sensor it seems fine and there is a new air filter in.
The problem is when the engine is cold its like a 2 stroke strimmer when you put the foot down it cuts back, and even a lot when its warm. Its exactly like a strimmer to think about it, its not burning oil though and the oil in the engine is very clean and just past the full mark on the stick.
I think its time to start buying parts now as i said before. Ill take the cat Peter saves me buying a £268 cat from my local supplier mind its new. How old is yours? Condidtion?
Thanks
Perhaps some of the earlier applies were a little err abrupt. However, they've got a point, or at least there's something I don't understand.
You've bought a "new" engine and it's thrown a light and is obviously not running well, why aren't you taking it back to the garage and getting them to fix their work?
cause the garage is 200 miles away and i were told they were good, the engine is running smooth but i think its the other parts which are not as it was like this before the new engine was put in ie the cats o2 sensors etc.
If i replace these i think i should solve the problem, as i plan to put in the new o2 sensors and exhausts etc by next week, and i if there is still a problem i will take it back as it has 3 months warrenty on it. I got a code from the engine light too, with the paperclip trick code 39 it was so i will check to see what it is.
You have a code 3 and a code 9, not code 39. s8) 8) s8)
Code 3 is essentially the MAF, which entirely explains the throttle problems your describing.
Code 9 is the speed signal wire, which is because of that mess of wiring used to 'convert' the speedo/speedlimiter by a previous owner (ref our previous discussions about the speedo in another thread) which you've now removed to some extent I gather.
Code 39 is a fuel temp sensor circuit malfunction, which just aint gona be the problem. Not when codes 3 and 9 explain everything.
To solve code 3 you can try to clean the MAF (search on here), or replacing it if that doesn't do the trick.
To solve code 9 you'll need to work on getting the wiring perfect again, though the UK clocks on a JDM ECU confuses this issue.
And thats why i am going to buy this convertor which is seen here m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120446038823&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m
And as for the MAF i pulled it out from the top of the air filter and saw it was brown in colour as it looks like a mini thermometer but dont know if its supposed to be that colour, might replace that.
And therefore once i replace all the exhaust system striaght from the Manifold it should be totally bullet proof touch wood.
The only thing i need now is to ask someone about fitting certain stainless steel back boxes with toyota cats and stainless steel manifolds. then i am sorted.
Then next year i plan to respray a door, oven bake the lights, waxoil underneath, re powder coat the wheels and upgrade the brakes, Put new dust covers on the suspension and repair the electric arieal which is no problem.
Let me know if the convertor will sort my troubles.
Thanks again
That ebay ad was the wrong one it was this one sorry m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SPEEDO-CON ... 0891562372 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/TOYOTA-SPEEDO-CONVERTER-DELIMTER-KMH-TO-MPH_W0QQitemZ230534035949QQcategoryZ10428QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp4340.m263QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DDLSL%252BSIC%26its%3DI%26itu%3DUCI%252BIA%252BUA%252BFICS%252BUFI%26otn%3D8%26pmod%3D330461112146%252B330461112146%26po%3D%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D5219974780891562372) m
hope its a 4 wire one
That ones the right one (for a Jap import with Jap clocks at least s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ).
As their auction states - make sure you tell them you're buying for a Toyota MR-S when purchasing, just to make sure.
I'm still unsure of the role the clocks themselves play in the system with regards to processing of the speed signal.
Maybe they only provide a readout and perform no processing, in which case connecting it up with or without the convertor should remove fault codes.
Connecting it up with the convertor will sort out the speed limiter issue, but I'm not convinced it'll give the right readout on UK clocks. But I'm guessing. I think you have little choice but to give it a go really! (unless you have working jap clocks to use of course).
Yeah and i am not buying new ones, I would just put a sticker over the uk clocks and put kph back on lol
Saying that unless anyone wants to swap UK clocks for KPH clocks which i would do to save the hassel as i dont mind KPH as i am used to it.
Perhaps I've read your post incorrectly but the MAF part you descrivbe as brown is indeed a thermometer. While cleaning that may help it's the inside which needs cleaning to get it to work well. There's a picture guide link in one of the threads here which shows it quite well.
To quote aaronjb:
"There is a lot of confusion about which bit you're cleaning when you clean the MAF.. In fact, I doubt you could reach the actual MAF element with a cloth.
As you look at the sensor removed from the housing, the small bulbous (usually black until you clean it) bit on the right or left hand side is a thermistor to measure intake air temperature - that's the IAT sensor, NOT the MAF (ok, it's part of the MAF, but let's not confuse things?)
The air flow sensor itself is up inside the tube part of the MAF - you can only barely see it, it's a small wire coil filament (much like the one you'd see in a light bulb) less than 1cm long and a few mm in diameter. Virtually impossible to see and the best way to clean it is just to spray fuel injector cleaner (not carb cleaner unless it says fuel injection safe) up inside the tube part of the MAF. DO NOT touch the element, even if you can reach a cotton bud to it - you'll break it.
The thermistor is much more robust, but even so it just needs a blast of cleaner to bring it up again (it'll turn translucent like amber from memory)."
I need O2 sensors for my imported toyota MRS and i think it only has 2 o2 sensors into the manifold.
Which ones do i need this m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=370428437464&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m
or this m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... K:MEWAX:IT (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=330468716266&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT) m
I would have thought the front ones. I also thought that the only difference was that the post-cat one has a longer cable.