I am having a horrible time starting my car in the (cold) morning. I clutch in as normal, turn the key, I hear the starter motor starting to turn, then I hear a click and my imobiliser light comes on and then it tries to start the starter motor again, then it clicks again, but alot faster and the light comes on again.
At first I thought it was the battery, so I checked it/charged it, but its still happening. Once I do get the car started (usually by bump starting it), and drive for a little bit, its fine. Its also fine on warmer days.
The thing I have noticed is that my offside headlight is suffering from the misting problem, could it be shorting something?
Any suggestions would be appricated (I didnt know if i should post this in the Maintenance, Problems & Troubleshooting or Audio / Security / Electrical because it could be either hehe)
Quote from: "scottee"Any suggestions would be appricated (I didnt know if i should post this in the Maintenance, Problems & Troubleshooting or Audio / Security / Electrical because it could be either hehe)
Maintenance s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
The immobiliser light coming on - could it be that the transponder in the key isn't being picked up properly, so the car isn't starting as it can't see the transponder?
Do you have a spare key? If so, next time you try starting, put the spare right up next to the steerinf column, while using the other key to start - see if the immobiliser light goes out and it starts OK.
but its only happening in cold mornings. the light does go off until i turn the ignition, then it flashes back on.... i'll try it anyways
The imobiliser doesn't stop you turning the car over - just stops the engine from starting. This problem is almost certainly a bad connection between the battery and the engine - most likley a bad earth connection from the body to the battery.
To fix, you need to check ALL connections relating to the battery and the starter motor - even if they are physically secure, they could have corroded - release the connection, clean with fine emery paper if necessary and then re-assemble the connection
HTH
Sounds like a feedback loop...
e.g. Key in - immobiliser off - engage starter - volt drop causes immobiliser to reset/turn-off/loose contact with chip in key - immobilser drops starter relay out - voltage returns to immobiliser which recognises key and turns off - starter re-engages - repeat until bored
check your battery terminals are tight, try hooking up another battery with some jump leads, if the problem goes away, you may find that your battery just cant supply the juice required when it matters... Just what I can tell you from where I'm sitting though...
Ok, so it aint the key. tried the spare, and does the same. my mate is comming over and we are goign to try his batt now
actually one more question (sorry guys, but hey, atleast i am learning) Will a battery from Halfords do... or should i pick one up from a dealer?
Quote from: "scottee"actually one more question (sorry guys, but hey, atleast i am learning) Will a battery from Halfords do... or should i pick one up from a dealer?
m http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3399 (http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3399) m
Have you read this thread, or been tooo busy trying to start your car?!
Suggests that the MR2 battery is specific to our car. For a replacement, if that's what you need, it looks like Toyota is the sensible route. But, as GSB suggested, do test with another battery first.
hth
Andy
New battery sorted it. £39 including VAT, but not for toyota. Bargin. thanks guys
Jap cars don't have a transponder in the key. No imob to worry about.
Quote from: "scottee"Once I do get the car started (usually by bump starting it), and drive for a little bit, its fine.
I always believed that bump starting can cause damage to your cats as neat fuel can pass through the exhaust. With the cat and pre cat problems previously highlighted surely this is a no no s:?: :?: s:?:
I had a similar problem when I had a 205 GTI - it wouldn't start when cold damp but would always start if bump started. It turned out to be the ignition amplifier, which was basically earthed to the car by being attached to an unpainted aluminium plate. When you unbolted it you found that there was corrosion between the plate and the amplifier unit. I don't know if there is anything like this on the 2 but it may point you in the right direction i.e. that it's some kind of electrical grounding problem.