I am thinking of buying an infinity basslink X, as it's quite cheap, compact by the looks of it and supposedly quite powerfull. Dont like the look of bass cannons at all and the under dash sub is a bit out my price range s:( :( s:(
Cheapest ive seen it for is at http://www.newimagecarhifi.co.uk/specials.php?catId=11
To connect it upto my H/U, do i just need a pair of RCA's? (i am not very knowledgeable in this field so be gentle with me!)
Also, how will the system sound? as i only have the stock speakers in the doors[/url]
Tomr2, are you fitting it yourself?
I know the shop New Image as they are local to me and I found their prices for both fitting and products quite expensive. But if they're the cheapest then buy from them and use someone else/yourself for fitting!
Dude.....i am selling mine and my H/U and my RCA's.
You can run the Basslink off the standard H/U but you have to splice into the speaker cables and the sound isn't as good as the RCA's.
Am open to offers over £210 mate.....
Its new gear but not boxed.
New Image charge £20 delivery.....so its a GR8 deal you'd be getting.
So the package is
Infinity Basslnk X
Sony CDX - CA900
Autolead RCA's
OIRO £210
Here is the orignal post:
m http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3387 (http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=3387) m
biggun, not intersted in the H/U, as i plan to use one of mine which is a Sony MDX M690 and has RCA outputs.
would you sell the sub and RCA's without the headunit?
Jambo: never done any of this before, (have installed a H/U before though) so am i gonna need anyone to help me fit it? didnt think it would be that hard (surely just a case of bunging the sub in the storage bins and connecting it to the H/U? s:? :? s:? )
Erm if you make me the right offer.
To fit the sub with the existing h/u you'll need to use something called "high level inputs" which means you'l have to splice into the existing speaker cable and use the crossover on the sub to filter out the high pitched sounds but it WILL still pick some up.
To run the cable the skirts just "pop off" and can be done that way.
You also need to run a power cable from the engine bay, there is a grommet in the storage bin for this also.
You WILL have to take the floor of the storage bin out.
Ah just re-read your post, ignore the high level input bit s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Tomr2, yeh pretty much s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I just remember going in there one time when I was looking for some speakers & amp and they wanted extortionate amounts for both and fitting so I bought it from C.A.R (they have shops in Edgware (North London) and i think Watford) and just did it myself. Alot easier and cheaper s:D :D s:D
only thing i am a bit worried about is the power cable that needs to get to the engine bay (which connects to the battery?)
does the sub come with one or do i have to buy one seperate?
If you buy a wiring kit it'll come with one, a remote cable and prob some RCA's
I bought all the cables seperately from halfords. they were competition spec cables and the power was about as thick as my baby finger. try and get as thick as possible as they last longer and are are less likely to become a fire hazard
with the above mentioned cables s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
its only a 200W amp though, is there going to be that much resistance?
No. A great deal of the design of these cables is in thier appearance. Big and chunky looks good, but isnt actually needed. If the cable going to your amp is bigger than the one going to your starter motor, you can safely assume its not exactly stressed. s:wink: :wink: s:wink: And as long as you have the correct protection, in the form of an appropriately rated fuse fitted at the battery end of the cable, there is no fire hazard either.
will a fuse kit come with a wiring kit?
yeh it will. like bigun said it will also come with remote wire and RCA's (and obviously power cable s:D :D s:D )
pm recieved.
i am a rank beginner when it comes to wiring but it only took me 1 hour to wire the whole lot in.i have run the cables along the centre console rather than down the sides.i have run the power lead direct from the battery with a fuse mounted at the back of the storage bins.
the only downside is that you have to remove the plastic cover from inside the passenger storage bin to sit the basslink unit in.
Quote from: "jonboy"i have run the power lead direct from the battery with a fuse mounted at the back of the storage bins.
Make a careful check of your wiring if you are going to do this. Should any damage occur to the section of cable betwwen the battery and the fuse that leads to the copper conductor coming into contact with any metalwork, then in all liklihood, your car will be toast. What will happen is you'll have a short circuit of the battery at full fault current (several hundred amps - maybe even more), think heat, sparks, molten wiring, smoke, fire etc... not the sort of thing you want in your car...
You can minimise this risk with careful cable routing, and by installing the fuse closer to the battery terminal, thus reducing the length of unprotected cable. If a short occurs in the wire after the fuse, it just blows the fuse, no big deal.
just recieved my basslink x this morning and on the diagram it shows that the fuse be 45cm away from the battery?
by the way, i am not too keen on drillin a hole in the car for an earth?!
and where is this grommet that i need to find to put the power cable through?
cheers
take out the plastic bottom of the storage bin and use one on the many screws underneath.no drilling required.
thanks for the advice on the wire gsb but i forgot to put in that the cable is encased in a plastic sleeve (i think its a cable tidy) from the battery to the fuse, so no wires are visible.
how do i connect this blue remote wire from the amp to the H/U?? it says something about 'use the butt connectors to join them together' on the wiring kit instructions - what the hell are butt connectors?
the remote socket in the back of my H/U is to small for the remote wire to go in.
please help
The remote socket on the back of your head unit is for a remote control unit, not remote turn on.
The wire you are looking for is the same wire that raises or lowers the antenna. A butt connector is a crimp connector that joins to wires when they are inserted and the connector crushed with the appropriate tool.
To be honest, if you are struggling, you really should find someone to help. Theres an awful lot of saftey related wiring in the areas you are working...
There should be a blue wire labelled "remote" ont he back of the headunit. All you need to do is get another piece of wire, halfarts will sort you summit, join the two and then you are sorted, infact there should be a wire in the wiring kit you bought?
Its just a case of connecting the two
sorted it mate, just one more problem - the servo LED isnt lighting up! even when i turn it upto maximum!!
now comes the fun bit.took me ages to work this one out.
1)disconect the bass control and turn the bass boost off or down to nothing(the one on the unit)now fade all your speakes out so you have only got the basslink working cause you have to turn your stereo up loud to do this properly.
2)select a cd with a really heavy bass line and stick it on.
3)turn up your stereo to about 3 quarters and the light on the side of the unit should activate.once that is on all you have to do is play about with the input and crossover settings till the light flashes in time with the bass.it will take a bit of time but it is worth it.
4)once you are happy that it is flashing correctly turn your stereo back to a normal level, fad in your fronts and away you go.
5)if you have put the bass remote in turn that to min and connect, still leaving the bass boost on the unit at zero as this now acts as your bass control.
jonboy, just done EXACTLY as you said but STILL NO LIGHT coming on
could it be a faulty LED?
you only get the light on when you have the settings ajusted on the frt properly. it does take some time.the best way i can suggest is turn every dial on the frt of the unit to the minimum setting, crank up you stereo and start from there.just make sure u leave the bass boost off.
just had a look at mine and the gain is about at 3 quarters the way around and the crossover is just over half way around.you only get the light on when you have got it on an extremly high volume, it does not come on when you turn the volume back down, its just used as a guide to tell you that both subs are working with each other and not against.
ahh i see, i thought it was for when the sub was distortin and you were putting to much power through it!
just need to stop the sub from moving about now (dont want to screw it down)
put a piece of no slip plastic underneath it and use the straps that are in the storage bin to secure it.it wont move when you close the storage door if you use the gray plastic supports.if you look at the install 2 pic i sent you, you can see the plastic supports on the top of the unit.these hold it in place perfectly.
LOUD isnt it?????
it quite loud, not earth shattering though.
an hour ago i had everthing working, now i have tided everything up and now it isnt working. the power light flick on then off when you switch on the H/U. when i rub the 2 remote wires together the power light on the sub flickers but wont stay on.
i have checked all the fuses and are fine?
any ideas? as i am pulling my hair out!
check your earth wire.if you have a bad connection on the earth it wont work.sounds like something has come lose when tiding.
sounds like your having fun.
Quote from: "jonboy"sounds like your having fun.
ive been crawling around inside my car all day, and have never felt so exhausted.
i hope it is just a loose earth connection so i dont have to keep messing about. although i do remember screwing it down very tight. s:? :? s:?
Anyway, gonna leave it till the morning now cos i am knockered!