Well I had a 1349 code come up on my new '2 3 times since I've bought it including after an oil change so I thought I'd get down to trying to give the OCV a clean, after a nice bit of helpful info from Richard (rbuckingham) I thought I'd give it a go. Quite an awkward thing to get to.
I managed to get the OCV out easy enough but the filter (a bolt underneath this) stayed in the engine after removing the bolt... I then processed to drop the bolt due to the awkward nature of where my hand was straight after thinking "don't drop that you'll never find it" s:evil: :evil: s:evil: I've removed the nappy and looked under car but can't see it, looks to be almost directly above the oil filter area... any idea where it would've come to rest down there and whether I have any hope of retrieving it?
Also any way to get the filter/strainer out as I put my little finger in and can't feel it after trying to get at it with tweezers as per the Aussie OC ( m http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/i ... strainers/ (http://au.toyotaownersclub.com/forums/index.php/topic/31918-diy-servicingchanging-oil-control-valve-ocv-filtersstrainers/) m ). If it's got pushed into the engine it's not going to go anywhere it shouldn't is it?
I'm tempted to just try and find the bolt, put it back in and leave it to someone that knows what they're doing s:lol: :lol: s:lol: but that's tomorrow's job as surprisingly it started raining again and I'm a little annoyed as nothing ever goes to plan! s:evil: :evil: s:evil: s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: the joys of diy!
You can buy extending magnetic pick up tools for five or six quid and probe around in there but it may be cheaper to buy the bolt!
You can also buy extending mirrors with lights to see whether or not the filter is there.
Your plan 'B' starts to look more attractive s:D :D s:D
Flexible pick up tool purchased (£5.99 at Halfords), they did have the flexible mirrors right next to them but decided against bothering with that I'm sure I can figure out a way to have a look... now I just need to wait for the 'drought' to finish so I don't drown outside!
Tried to call you yesterday mate regarding this as it no doubt stuck in the plastic which goes round the tank. As for the strainer nose pliers with that 90 degree bend should get it.
Cheers for the phone call mate sorry I had to rush off, had to get to the cinema. I'll see if I can get the bolt today hopefully I can just stick my hand up and grab it.
Thought I'd get a new bolt ordered today just in case as I have to use the car on Thursday so I've got all the parts ready for pickup Wednesday morning from MrT (filter was already in stock but have to order bolts, I'm sure they're not usually required s:) :) s:) ) and I'm screwed if I don't have a bolt by then s:? :? s:?
For future ref (thanks to CTP)
part numbers are:
WASHER - 90430-14009
BOLT - 90341-14013
Filter, OCV - 15678-21010
Cost £11 for the lot from MrT
When you finally get the filter out, would you mind telling me how you did it please? and any tips if you were to do it again s:D :D s:D
I have the same error code appearing. I have changed the OCV valve but not the filter. I have had the code trigger once in the last 6 months since changing the valve but i do get a pending code every so oftern.
These are my weapon of choice, but I'm still not holding out massive hope, will have a go this evening!
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_530651_langId_-1_categoryId_165469
(http://washford.scene7.com/is/image/Washford/926501?$prod$)
they might not be able to grip mate as they round at the end.
this is what you need as it has a flat edge to grab with.
m http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... 65469#tab1 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_233733_langId_-1_categoryId_165469#tab1) m
Spot the run away bolt caught on top of the oil cooler pipes s;) ;) s;)
(http://i15.photobucket.com/albums/a373/azekiel/CarStuff/caughtBolt.jpg)
Well last night I got a little helper (Emma) to give me a hand, with her small hands she got into the space a lot easier than I had. She tried the tweezers but the filter was obviously in too far as she couldn't get at it. Instead, I asked her to put the bolt back in and turn it hand tight, I then unscrewed it again really slowly and carefully and the filter came out with it... that then fell down but luckily it was caught directly below so she could reach (phew) s:D :D s:D then the heavens opened so at least we'd finished!
The filter film didn't really look blocked, only a couple of little darker parts obviously from the old oil so hoping that's the problem. I've cleaned it up so it looks good as new but I'm picking the new one up from MrT tomorrow morning just to rule that out. I've cleaned the main solenoid and that's dry so it's ready to go back in too.
Didn't need the pliers in the end but I might go pick them up anyway as they will help out with the turbo install, normal pliers like to slip off circlips a lot.
Hopefully tomorrow I'll be up and working again o/
Well car's running with the old filter cleaned and back in, I'll put the fresh one in next week if I get a CEL this weekend, if not I'll leave it as it is as that was harder than fitting a turbo! Driving up to Telford tomorrow and back Monday so didn't really want the car out of action until I picked up the new filter this evening. Thanks for everyone's help on this as always s:) :) s:)
CEL was on when I first started the car but realised I hadn't set the ECU so it was a P1656. Open or short in OCV circuit from when I'd unplugged the OCV. Code reset and all working on a short 10 mile drive, took her round topless go-kart style... definitely missed driving her!
Thank you for your write up.
Quote from: "onion86"it is as that was harder than fitting a turbo!
s:shock: :shock: s:shock: What did you remove if anything to get to the bolt. Just the charcoal canister?
I removed the charcoal canister, but left the holder. Yesterday I also removed the dipstick tube from it's bracket on the engine and bent it upwards as goes round directly above the bolt and made it extremely awkward to get to (that's originally why I dropped it).
**It did bend back and the dipstick goes in/out as it should but I assume doing this may damage it so if you can do it without I'm not recommending this.**
250 miles later and the light didn't come on so currently (touch wood) looks to be OK! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On a slightly different note, the bolt replacement (90341-14013) isn't identical to the original bolt, instead of being a hollow 14mm bolt it is a hollow bolt with an allen key hole instead... this would probably make life slightly easier to undo/tighten it as it's impossible to get any more than 1/4 turn from a spanner in there as then you'll hit metal, but might be a bit more difficult to get it in the hole to start with as it might be slightly harder to grip.
Replaced my filter at the weekend too, but it was while I had the wlternator out too ... made sense at the time.
It's a tricky place to get at with the alternator in position.
100K miles and the filter was really pretty clean, I'd bought a replacement anyway so the new one went in without issue.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"100K miles and the filter was really pretty clean, I'd bought a replacement anyway so the new one went in without issue.
I'd say as long your oil is changed regularly this issue should never arise; so anyone that looks after their car (unlike the woman that used to own mine) should never have to go through this.
I'm definitely going to leave it with the cleaned old filter in for now. If there is any gunk in there anywhere I'd rather it got on the old one then I'll replace the filter with the new one after a couple more oil changes. So far I've averaged well under 100miles/month in my car so might be a while until I do actually change it but I generally do it twice a year.
I'll also amend the title of this thread to filter replacement rather than my lost bolt for future ref s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "onion86"250 miles later and the light didn't come on so currently (touch wood) looks to be OK! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
On a slightly different note, the bolt replacement (90341-14013) isn't identical to the original bolt, instead of being a hollow 14mm bolt it is a hollow bolt with an allen key hole instead... this would probably make life slightly easier to undo/tighten it as it's impossible to get any more than 1/4 turn from a spanner in there as then you'll hit metal, but might be a bit more difficult to get it in the hole to start with as it might be slightly harder to grip.
I picked up a spare bolt at the weekend just incase i did the same (drop it) and it is the same hollow bolt with an allen key hole . I imagine its easier to put this allen key bolt in. I haven't tried it yet though.
Quote from: "onion86"I'd say as long your oil is changed regularly this issue should never arise; so anyone that looks after their car (unlike the woman that used to own mine) should never have to go through this.
Indeed, I just did it as a precaution as I was replacing the alternator anyway, I've had the car since almost new and it's always been serviced with flush and decent quality FS oil. I had to replace the ocv last year so it made sense to replace the filter just in case it was clogged. It took a bit of torque to undo the old bolt, but I guess the Aln version allows you to get the bolt in place on the end of the aln key ... which gives you more room for fingers so you don't drop it s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Well, code came back on with a vengeance this weekend (did ~500 miles though), out of the 10 or so times I started the engine it came on 5 times at various points in journeys... time to cry. Tempted to take it to MrT for a full service but put almost £40 worth of Fuchs in it just over a month ago which's still in tip top condition.
I was hoping I could wait until turbo time and having a clean sump and another oil change under her belt would've completely got rid of it but not quite so sure now. Not wanting to use engine flush type products, is a professional engine flush likely to be safe for the engine?
Also noticing the timing belt being a little squeeky which I don't like the sound of s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
Time to try replacing the actual OCV then s:? :? s:?
Yeah probably best to try that rather than throwing heap loads of oil at it. Still think it's due to the old oil that was in the car when I bought it but at least then I can check that off the list.
The OCV isn't all that dificult to change (with a cold engine s:lol: :lol: s:lol: ), probably easier than the filter.
May be worth checking the plug on the cam position sensor too s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
If you still got that new filter might be worth doing that first, might still be some clagg still in it.
I did clean it pretty well with soap/water and half a can of carb cleaner s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I'm thinking if it is still due to old bits in the oil then the new filter would surely just getting bunged up which may be why it was fine for 300 miles with the clean filter then came back again? I'll definitely try the new filter and currently seeing if Mr d2ski has an OCV. Unfortunately I don't have any trips in the car planned until at least the end of July.
Yeah Nic, I cleaned the OCV when I did the filter too, don't think I ever would've got to the filter without taking the OCV out, MUCH easier job!
It's not scary to use engine Flush, a few of use use Wynns...
m http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stor ... yId_255221 (http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_157187_langId_-1_categoryId_255221) m
Dump it in, bring the engine up to temperature and a little drive around the block.
Stop it and drain.
Replace filter, and fill it back up again with a decent FS oil.
End of story.
Agree it might be good to take a look at the filter again, you could see clearly through mine and there were no lumps or deposits and that was after 100K miles.
funnily enough mine came back on today s:( :( s:( I still haven't fitted my filter yet though. I've tried but i can't bend my arm round enough corners to get too it s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I have had quite a lot of pending codes, they have been clearing themselves though. I cleared the code and when i got home, i had another pending code s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
I just thought i would update you on my issues with this code.
I have been getting the code as a pending code for 6 months now with the occasional full code with a management light. I changed the OCV valve and this seemed to help but in time i was still getting the pending codes s:( :( s:( These pending codes do clear themselves but if the problem occurs, i think 3 times in quick succession you get the engine light(i stand to be corrected).
I had the intention of replacing the OCV filter but i spoke to the guy i use to MOT my car and he asked if i used engine flush, which i do, the Wynns stuff from Halfords. He suggested that i use the Forte flush, He showed me the bottle and it specifically says it frees sticking Variable Valve Timing. He also said that if the oil level is low'ish there might not be enough oil pressure to open the valve. So i put the forte flush in the engine, and took the mechanics advice and took it for a 20 min drive and i left it to idle for a further 10 mins. The bottle suggested 30-40mins of idling. I took the engine upto 5-6k rpm and few times, not driving it hard though. I did the service as normal, the car now feels a lot better and i've not had any pending codes, I've done 300 miles.
Unfortunately the forte stuff is not available to the general public, you need to be a garage. This is a link to the stuff i used http://www.forteuk.co.uk/product.php?id=43/Advanced_Formula_Motor_Flush I am sure there are places on the internet you can get it.
I hope that helps you.
Thanks Pete, keep us updated if the code does come back.
I was going to take Nic's advice and try out the Wynns stuff but might give this a try instead, seems you can get it from Camskill (http://www.camskill.co.uk/m1b13s4400p57199/_FORTE_-_Advanced_Engine_Flush_-_400ml_/RS_GB) for a tenner so worth a go.
also available on Ebay for a about a tenner delivered.
Cheers, got it from eBay, Camskill would've been P&P on top.
New oil filter and Forte flush ordered along with 10 litres of Fuchs GT1 from Oilman s:) :) s:)
s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
I sorry to say that after 4 days of error free motoring, i've got the pending code again and all the symptons have come back.
Now i am pretty certain i have a sticking VVT mechanism in the engine so its time to start saving so i can buy the VVT mechanism and get it fitted. Does anyone know the part number?
Quote from: "PeteT":cry:
I sorry to say that after 4 days of error free motoring, i've got the pending code again and all the symptons have come back.
Now i am pretty certain i have a sticking VVT mechanism in the engine so its time to start saving so i can buy the VVT mechanism and get it fitted. Does anyone know the part number?
I'm not sure what year your car is Pete but for 2002 - 2005 model it's part number 13050-22011 looks to be about £150, this is the mechanical timing gear at the end of the camshaft you are talking about??
Rob.
Thank you Rob, Yes my car is a facelift 2003 52 plate.
Should i consider having the chain done at the same time? The car has about 72000 miles
Quote from: "PeteT"Should i consider having the chain done at the same time? The car has about 72000 miles
They are supposed to be good for over a 100,000, I'm not sure if the chain can be replaced while the engine is still in the car, certainly the VVT mech can be changed as it has to be removed to change the cams which I've already had done - I would think Ste or Nic would be able to tell you.
Rob.
Thanks Rob
Stu, at the risk of jinx'ing my problem. I've not had a pending code since tuesday morning and the car has been running great s:) :) s:) I even got 35mpg, 3-4 mpg over what i would have expected on my last tank based on my commuting route.
FYI, I have got a price of £148 for a new VVT mechanism from Toyota, then the cost of the fitting.
So with my car looking like it is having a sticky mechanism which has improved since using Forte, The first thing i will do is to do another service with the Forte stuff in about 1 month before i get the engine opened up.
I hope you have similar/better success Stu
Well just before I went away I got this done as I've got a 200 mile trip tomorrow.
So had posted this on the other thread but here is the oil that came out after I put the engine flush through the system on oil that has done ~500 miles!
(http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mr2/images/problems/flushedOil.jpg)
So I flushed the oil out, removed the filter and left the oil to drain overnight. I then removed the sump the next day to check the bottom end,
(http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mr2/images/problems/engineBottom1.jpg)
(http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mr2/images/problems/engineBottom2.jpg)
not the cleanest of engines with quite a lot of build up but I hate to think what it was like before the engine flush went through. I tried to clean off as much as I could, it wasn't too difficult so I think another flush next time the oil's changes should get the rest off. I thoroughly cleaned out the sump and have put in the new OCV filter (wasn't quite so tricky this time) and carb cleaned the OCV itself again.
All back together, went on a 10 mile drive, not really sure whether it's more responsive, quieter or anything but no light back on yet. I'll feedback next weekend after 500 odd miles but fingers crossed this time.
N.B. I don't think there's any way that you can fit the new 'allen key style' OCV filter bolt to the MR2, It's a pretty big Allen key and I couldn't get it in even without the bolt there I'd say it's front fitted engine only... so I reused the original bolt and the new filter/gasket.
just asking can a steam cleaner clean all the gunk out or a water pressure washer on;y asking of interest.
and good work mate.
Quote from: "redarrow"just asking can a steam cleaner clean all the gunk out or a water pressure washer on;y asking of interest.
and good work mate.
Out of what?
If you have the sump off the car, and away from it, you could clean it with either of those methods, as long as you dried it thoroughly before re-fitting it.
I hope you're not asking though, if you could clean the bottom end of the engine, with the sump off, with water or steam. Would. Not. Recommend. That.
Well little update now...
It lasted 214 miles after the 'super clean' before the EML came back on s:( :( s:( It then managed a 40 mile trip to Ipswich and back on Saturday but came on twice during the 230 miles back to Bristol yesterday with 3 stops.
I think I can definitely cross dirty oil off the list now so ordering a new OCV. I would say I still don't seem to be getting any symptoms but I did think my new '2 seemed to have less pull than my old one from the day I bought it... hmmm.
I know it's related to the 1346 rather than my code but where is the cam position sensor located so I can clean that, is it near over near TB?
Not sure how useful this will be to this post.
I've been having This error now for the past 5 years.
It all started one day when I filled up my car at morrisons. The pump was REALLY slow and the next day closed for refurbishment, that evening my CEL came on with this error.
Looking at the Toyota info on this code it doesn't seem as though fuel could be related but I'm convinced it is.
Since it first came on, for the first year it only appeared once every 3 or so months. Gradually it came on more regularly. For the last year it would NEVER come on on a drive of less than 15 mins, which is roughly how long it takes for the cars temperature to move to its normal reading. Like clockwork I knew I could drive to my mums (25miles) without it coming on, but I could also predict within a few miles on my return trip when it would light up.
My trip to work is 10 mins and for the last few years never came on, until recently when on th odd occasion it pops up. Interestingly, the light will turn itself off after a while/short trip.
I've not really done anything about it because Toyota scared me with prices of £500 to check it!! Basically they said we can check it for £80!! But the work to diagnose it could cost upto around £500; then I'd have the cost of repair.
I'd love to sort this out. The fact I've lived with it for 5 years and the fact it will turn itself off makes me think It can't be that bad, can it?
Well by way of another update, I changed the OCV (Toyota Part number 15330-22030 - £89 from CTP) on 9th August. After a cruise to my nephew's Christening a couple of weekends ago and a trip up to Telford this weekend I've now racked up 350 engine light free miles s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
I did seem to notice a little more power when I was alone in the car this weekend than I've been used to and when I had them both I always had a little niggle in my mind that my old '2 seemed faster than the new one but thought it was just me. Not really sure how to explain it properly but the engine bay oddly seems to 'smell' less like it's cooler and not been working as hard as it used to (if that makes any sense at all), could all be down to the VVT not doing it's job.
I'll update in another few weeks but fingers crossed we're now sorted!
Oddly PeteT has noted that if you "exercise" the engine in your driving, i.e. use the full rev range regularly it cuts down the problem.
I suppose if you're commuting and driving "economically", then the valve doesn't get much use ... therefore it gets sticky?
Glad to hear you may have sorted the problem, let's see how it goes.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Oddly PeteT has noted that if you "exercise" the engine in your driving, i.e. use the full rev range regularly it cuts down the problem.
I suppose if you're commuting and driving "economically", then the valve doesn't get much use ... therefore it gets sticky?
Glad to hear you may have sorted the problem, let's see how it goes.
That could be the case, I was told the previous owner did a motorway commute every day and not use the car for much else; but along with her evidently not servicing the car enough I can't necessarily pinpoint it to that.
I think by having this issue I've potentially fixed a few other horrors waiting to happen, especially flushing the engine out. I've had to spend quite a bit on 3 oil and filter changes but it'll be worth it in the long run.
I also seem to have increased my MPG from 38 from 2/3 tanks to 41+ on the last 2 tanks since the engine flush went through. I've been driving in the same way and on the same routes so pretty happy with that.
Well, my EML has been popping up every week or so with this fault, even since I cleaner the OCV, replaced the filter, and changed the oil.
It lit up on Friday on my way home from work. I never used the car all weekend, and never got a chance to do anything about it. Used it yesterday for work, then came home, and went back out to the gym.
On the way home from the gym, the light went back off, of it's own accord.
it's never done that before? Anyone else?
My EML with the same code will turn itself off on startup once I've been on a short trip, doesn't happen every time, it's a little random.
Quote from: "Ross_Curtis"My EML with the same code will turn itself off on startup once I've been on a short trip, doesn't happen every time, it's a little random.
Mine came back on last night on my way home again.
Nuisance.
And went back off again this morning?!
Think my car might be haunted or something...
Quote from: "doogz"And went back off again this morning?!
Think my car might be haunted or something...
Always worrying, have you had the chance to get an OBDii reader connected to see if there are any codes stored?
I remember driving around for a while with a reader permanently connected to catch the codes as they happened.
Worth a try s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Quote from: "doogz"And went back off again this morning?!
Think my car might be haunted or something...
Always worrying, have you had the chance to get an OBDii reader connected to see if there are any codes stored?
I remember driving around for a while with a reader permanently connected to catch the codes as they happened.
Worth a try s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Same code, every time. 1349. I've reset it a few times, but these days if I leave it a few days it seems to turn itself off.
Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.
This sounds similar to my problem. It sounds like your VVTI is sticking, sometimes sticking and then throwing the code and then freeing up and removing the code.
Try the Forte engine flush (others didn't work for me, see an earlier post in this thread!), put it in, go for a short drive using the full rev range. Don't drive the car hard, just go up the rev range at a gentle pace.
Drop the oil and put in fresh oil. Cross your fingers and go for a drive s:) :) s:) It worked for me s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "PeteT"This sounds similar to my problem. It sounds like your VVTI is sticking, sometimes sticking and then throwing the code and then freeing up and removing the code.
Try the Forte engine flush (others didn't work for me, see an earlier post in this thread!), put it in, go for a short drive using the full rev range. Don't drive the car hard, just go up the rev range at a gentle pace.
Drop the oil and put in fresh oil. Cross your fingers and go for a drive s:) :) s:) It worked for me s:D :D s:D
Done that about a month ago, maybe a bit longer, after posting about it on here. Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.
I wonder if your vvti controller (end of the camshaft) has become sticky ... it is known to happen and I'm sure Rogue have a pile of them they've had to replace. s:idea: :idea: s:idea:
Have a word with PeteT about the software he uses and the bluetooth reader. < s:lol: :lol: s:lol: Beaten to it >
It's really handy for logging where and when codes are occurring along with loads, temperatures, even where on a road it actually occurred.
It's these niggles that are always a pain to track down the causes.
Like i said, I know when it's occurring, I get a snapshot of all the loads, speeds, currents, temps, pressures, etc.
It's saved on my laptop, don't have it handy. Wasn't giving away anything obvious.
Quote from: "doogz"Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.
This wont actually use the VVTi. The VVTi is an intelligent system controlled by the ECU using oil pressure via the OCV valve. If you drive the car with this flush in the ECU will open and close the VVTi depending on the load of the engine at certain revs. Just having the car idling will not have this effect and the VVTi will not be operating. You need to drive the car.
Quote from: "doogz"Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.
and i bet this happens when your crusing along? 2500rpm is where the VVTi kicks in to give you more torque. If the ECU is telling the OCV valve to open and move the VVTi and it doesn't you will get the error code.
Quote from: "PeteT"Quote from: "doogz"Although I didn't drive the car, left it at fast idle for 15 minutes (using careful positioning of a brick on the throttle pedal) and it cleared up for a week or so, then re-occurred.
This wont actually use the VVTi. The VVTi is an intelligent system controlled by the ECU using oil pressure via the OCV valve. If you drive the car with this flush in the ECU will open and close the VVTi depending on the load of the engine at certain revs. Just having the car idling will not have this effect and the VVTi will not be operating. You need to drive the car.
Quote from: "doogz"Always seems to occur in 5th, around 2500rpm, according to the snapshot.
and i bet this happens when your crusing along? 2500rpm is where the VVTi kicks in to give you more torque. If the ECU is telling the OCV valve to open and move the VVTi and it doesn't you will get the error code.
Ah, i see. Never actually thought of that, i figured the oil will be circulating everywhere, even if the VVTI system is not activated.
Thanks for the advice, I've had the car 3 months and this will be oil change No.3.
And yeah, sitting on the motorway, dawdling to and from work is when it seems to pop up.
is there a picture guide to changing the OCV or is it a really obvious job?
Access is the problem.
at the back of the engine.
you need dainty triple jointed wrists
It is do able, but much patience and dexterity required.
Well as I've posted in another thread I'm still getting this every few hundred miles and it's really doing my head in, having a bit of free time I thought I'd take Nic's advice and check the two sensors I haven't dealt with yet. Thought I'd resurrect this rather than clogging up the other person's thread.
Managed to get the Cam Position Sensor out (I see I did mention it back in July 2012 but never got round to it!) and it was pretty grubby so cleaned it up, couldn't see any issues with electricals. I'll see if that makes any difference, I guess it could? It looked to me like it was scraped/damaged before it cleaned off:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/C26uO00j87z9OwBcOiroMcmcjxUp7DALPlxaSk2Wr66geW5_rI0Xu_VgTfDwu__X2rR2sZCsczVFvfcj8MtLSTro7ItaoFkqr44uhqHdqoMcsMt1hBGcim0FAi3JUUwM78-7G379L3NwBEuKZFKUMFR7jESVtxlQ6z_1utIux_HlTNpMKgaefkVoEitQvBNbwV0mn7qd77urXIy0RrGsHCpRfpWc-NGyP8mC_J1FgindRc-0phwwIdUFOQK8F15EjRAVia4AHjk0za0CBPS-WDSsRETm0F7d0O_D7FAeW4uyHqyHqJD_8cjN3n0y-CBTI9Ct4eODUjEpiWTdL4gwSpi8_-2jOUFN7-y1kqnIw_mF0zwkiPg_gnpFZFkeUYmQVYRtuKZ96AoTbtOhJtO6DUp_SfKWyLdzwiePhEiM-bgTE2RAdLaAnQlnf3cqEKUb0O8eBUPYnJV98SMi4xq7FXToOFQ7p0oBAEyPzElF6c-zBxLfJCg0KG1i0_7X7c433xkh9d_U1_g9NlkZqAxgCEKRJl1mkm4LRNsgJFaX00xbXjzucvqYSD-z77G4PcbEZ46Mr-oQetR1_qrCZUNPR2M8RO3gNdjZegf2stqaBgycXWYn7tWQiQ=w542-h962-no) (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPTxpHscXPFwNhZ0l1rRmbZ62MIfo0Ca-RedxLPfd61xct1IpJ7QyAxO0dhgtZBqA/photo/AF1QipNST8e_6Aj0MbGuwNplN1br8RFF94NdBvdyDuNi?key=TnNIZGRIQlRRLWMzNzdOMmctQnRqUU1iQTY3YkhR)
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/XFHEkrCVHxCMTYwtebukRSZS7R75AEStLngX_Cv6Q6Cb7Id6sODKUPMevQwapzN5Q-q-v4UIgV6aJ_T2fk9GlpA0zonyUKLbDdDF3TQA41Pz3uBBY07HhOyUWwSunlVvW87AZTm65Z1p1bro-T2NwyT8bgZUd0NJPXn4nAUzVOuiqM6cXL_LNVItOYISHJg4qZtTnNX2wHN4E-RFvlLi8yABb5aTDiiCyqx9EmhZYSkSfRv6yQjAnE1MNzN6ojOUmbkUeayHD5cB5TGyf7UJWmgIMBB98uNDA5-Fm1qHVQgR36V34KYs-aUkNtEh7lg1crVGAwqwbH5SHe8NOfDOHBUs0-I1aQDy1rmetGFt4yYCqLX47LuHDyy4U88gRZlxjIBkpNsKveY5BSoJz7QY9Y-NgzJ520vQr588RYXcXsKl9EEH8247Uo4xV-XvP3qFIaGjpHdxAWxx-P6u8_TypCdcbMsw0bscxqs4W6vtzCPUEqnD32HeY52Tr6-VWtkPV_Sn2bNsFCKM4xqlmdrDmMArNp6XRJVQmn9BY5vvvZv_x_rxlAFDyQ9RDT9ScgxgV1b_0mlhVKnEHs8oUosylSHenZfYOLm5rC3tOTQCor74C46qQw=w1711-h962-no) (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPTxpHscXPFwNhZ0l1rRmbZ62MIfo0Ca-RedxLPfd61xct1IpJ7QyAxO0dhgtZBqA/photo/AF1QipO22Q-FZMBzHkDJ_hULowp8Y0y2mNb9UuNK91TD?key=TnNIZGRIQlRRLWMzNzdOMmctQnRqUU1iQTY3YkhR)
Next thing, how the hell do I get the Crank Position Sensor out, do I need to remove the Aux belt? Seemed to be no angle I could get anything onto it without it moving less than 1mm before hitting something. It doesn't look too bad down there but would still like to get it out if possible based on how the cam sensor looked inside.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/HlpHm3SV3CzVq7OmZi7BBHJ6Y_ZvzpMLSICxXSL3Toa3cZxAkExcPx7Cc7vll3KnhnG5MmaEQ-qfepAZhCTNpUSxggBUQCIpbm4yFSbICJKpPEKkUhSy4JLHo1HCXbr4F9MR8NG4j3vwaKTPvjxrnYf5i5a8wLfEsoa2LV9lzkYNPHtg8zrEYtgQwr_77GFRZF7H6D7z71hc8a9lT8juOCW3kmTy68mIUDxqkXTfhVIgfoENzxeLNg1FkVazKAUvjoLDj0rrUfJHKTsJVyu63AxBfP9wAR8xdt8MEX8grSMWNP-33GLzSaJvYaQPv_HT7jElIFyyPxntMTiUlFWdOA6E7_8uZal3IabvsaDjY6ybzCRpzvA6xzVvy5apjVj5rZNK77f_vTKOw9uSnFv2D88lBbc-H7ZfXbPHBdlSfesEXz-hzspIUICTM8vIe-D89UeBe9Ya0K2X-nKfWtIqaeZdQV2rMbsmed1-tBFCYjkf__paEJF6B0SMy2uvunW3w3fjUYErEte6VVdfcr2QSKj3tndSi_NFLNsQ8ptcsuuN0Sf-JlDNeg19RD5w4bXDaelwK8VMVuZwdU7N7nljn797oaBjmTcRTWajFS1uB8excBcmTw=w542-h962-no) (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPTxpHscXPFwNhZ0l1rRmbZ62MIfo0Ca-RedxLPfd61xct1IpJ7QyAxO0dhgtZBqA/photo/AF1QipPmqT9atsdrUzK-__8rweP6_XBE_z6YW31HozWp?key=TnNIZGRIQlRRLWMzNzdOMmctQnRqUU1iQTY3YkhR)
Also despite my brain telling me not to I thought I'd check and clean the OCV filter again... 2 hours later and this happening twice then I had it back in... f***ing thing!:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/GlNkoHzVcX4P6g_TGa9WWGPA55aFEixWpC0pMAAPe4WNhdVGwFdfLw_6K0WVEiz0Eb81iMTkrtSND3rNR1ls-d0fciUmCXilzJn7428fPybKN-z1bHbT1QHYYjTb1p33U86VQJniVFT5SVtdCVEgZkXlaTFnlrAgInygYrCgp_P4ZT8uh6CzEilB8TugnJHqJOcV4yOoFGPtNhjO9XvAQSDF1Y4TMotgUgsj0WKAHcP1aLJzL-tP6DTQfZ-gYL08cfaZhJYenOe8OpcMX3YIfQuDmZhWXkF1y7uKWvAFYMwkttLmdWVA-dtZxyoXRe1VZ4DeBqnnG9lfvcQw1Dwozjf5BXW83BSzGJgQLrN4ufKDa-fY8gLKPf3GKVng0ubQFkT00PhvgdkxQj57rrC3n2KCQOpPUedbYt8MQq48z9bJZkbNY85ZWu51mHC4VWW6zO0llFIOdrl7sK0MtArQkiOM_1zRpqZDwLQMLwGQo4CTwQadXLBtuWyNjGfWMnGGErc44wmg3pPlgFZ5uVNNLvXvXjtfbPVWtpA11875AkuBkAcit_c5dFcsC6gmFX5QTCvpAyyu9H3Tx7YtI03QkICankuB_007HUuGwhaU-G9E6J9n1w=w542-h962-no) (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPTxpHscXPFwNhZ0l1rRmbZ62MIfo0Ca-RedxLPfd61xct1IpJ7QyAxO0dhgtZBqA/photo/AF1QipMmYOYudwvaGlTF6LVwUMgU3PlBJDRZEWZCXNgD?key=TnNIZGRIQlRRLWMzNzdOMmctQnRqUU1iQTY3YkhR)
Also finally sorted my squeaky clutch pivot (https://photos.google.com/share/AF1QipPTxpHscXPFwNhZ0l1rRmbZ62MIfo0Ca-RedxLPfd61xct1IpJ7QyAxO0dhgtZBqA/photo/AF1QipP7cV_zcfx2a9EXa7vVPpPpwfBP756MUZjyliRz?key=TnNIZGRIQlRRLWMzNzdOMmctQnRqUU1iQTY3YkhR) s:) :) s:)
CONTINUED - https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=65136 (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=65136)