Ok so the 2zz is in and I have managed to rack up over 100 miles s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: and lift.... s:crazyeyes: :crazyeyes: s:crazyeyes: s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce: ill save that for another topic but... Wow!
Just a few de bugging issues if I could pick some of your brains?
First off... WOT..
It doesn't really like wide open throttle. The engine bogs rite down like a misfire but its not a misfire. This happens at all revs and at all loads but is not/hardly noticeable when in lift.
If I back off to about 90% throttle it pulls fine (ish) just small flat spots between 2k and 6k rpm.
Please correct me if I'm wrong but is this a TPS problem? Will the TPS from my 1zz work to save me buying a new one? For the record I did swap the wires in the loom when I did the swap.
Second problem... High idle..
When starting from cold the idle is quite low and hunting up and down. When it's warmed up it idles smooth as silk, no hunting or anything but its up at 1500.. This is pointing out to me as the ICV (or is it called AIC on toyotas? Anyway idle control valve is what I'm getting at ha). Could I whip this off my 1zz to save buying another one too? How can I bench test the idle control valve?
Could these 2 problems be linked?
One other point to make.. I know I'm on the bigger side of the induction at 76mm iirc and it's quite a short 90degree pipe. That too big for the stock ecu?
Ta if anyone can help :-) :-) :-)
If you didn't use a special wiring harness, I believe there is 2 wires you need to swap round that are different on a 2zz ecu and a 1zz ecu.
Sorry yeah to clear up I've got the Monkey Wrench adapter loom with a USDM ecu (thanks to steve :-) :-) :-) ) and the wires I swapped on the TPS as stated by monkey wrench was the bottom two.
This is a possibility ...
QuoteThe malfunction was with the idle speed control valve which being stack ,gave high idle.Bad ISCVs are something common with used 2zz engines sitting around for long, at least I read this in a thread somewhere in here, but i was told the same by a couple of mechanics familiar with the 2zz.
I swapped with the one from the 1zz which looks to be the same , though Toyota gives different part numbers (22270-22021 for the 2zz and 22270-22020 for the 1zz). Now the engine purrs as a cat at around 850-900 rpm and all seem to be fine.
m http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread ... 2ZZ-issues (http://spyderchat.com/forums/showthread.php?48715-Last-minute-2ZZ-issues) m
Cheers for that link. Sounds like exactly the same problem as what I'm having.
I've just swapped the idle control valve with the 1zz one. I ran the car up to temp but now have an even higher idle of 1800 s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
And still the bogging down issue s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
On another note I'm guessing after looking at the TPS sensors they are not interchangeable as they spin opposite ways.. + different part numbers.
Hmmm .. I see if I can find anything else.
Have you checked for any codes? You may have a pending one. I would check just in case.
Here is another link
QuoteSo it's been 2 months so I figure I'd give an update. I finally got an OEM ECU from and pulled the code. I got P0110 - Intake Air Temp Circuit Fault. When I went in to the sensor data, it was reading at -40 degrees. I guess I'll try to clean the MAF and inspect the wires running from there to the ECU. Anyone have a source for an online 2ZZ Factory Service Manual? Hopefully this fixes it
QuoteThe car is now running an OEM ECU from a 2001 Celica GTS. Traced the IAT open circuit to a spliced wire at the MAF. Jiggled it to fix it but have to work on the permanent fix later. I cleaned the MAF and took it for a test drive. It ran much better and drove almost like normal.
m http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/inde ... -problems/ (http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/index.php?/topic/2843-help-pls-2001-w-2zz-irratic-idle-and-hesitation-problems/) m
Quote from: "dcod"Have you checked for any codes? You may have a pending one. I would check just in case.
Yes just checked and pending from having a spin earlier I got p0300 - p0303. (Cylinder misfires) caused at wide open throttle.. And a p0450 from the fuel tank vacuum valve.
p0450
Check your wiring to the VSV for EVAP and the pipework to the charcoal canister. (Wiring caused a p443 for me so it may just be the pipe work)
QuoteI did get a code but think it was my fault for not fitting the EVAP pipework , i unplugged the solonoid for the charcoal canister and so far it hasn't returned, the code was P0450.
l viewtopic.php?f=7&t=38503&p=461297&hilit=p0450#p461297 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=38503&p=461297&hilit=p0450#p461297) l
EDIT: Actually, I don't have any of it except the VSV for Evap connected to the ECU to stop the 443 s:? :? s:?
Have you thought that it may be the wiring to the IACV and not the IACV itself?
INSPECTION
1. REMOVE THROTTLE BODY (See page SF–33)
2. REMOVE IAC VALVE
Remove the 3 screws, IAC valve and gasket.
3. INSPECT IAC VALVE OPERATION
(a) Check that the IAC valve is half–opened.
( Connect the IAC valve connector.
© Turn the ignition switch ON.
(d) Check that the IAC valve operates in the sequence, half
open, fully close, fully open and then half open, within 0.5
seconds.
If operation is not as specified, replace the IAC valve.
(e) Turn the ignition switch OFF.
(f) Disconnect the IAC valve connector.
4. REINSTALL IAC VALVE
Install a new gasket and the IAC valve with the 3 screws.
5. REINSTALL THROTTLE BODY (See page SF–35)
Ignore the p0450 code , it's a pressure sensor that US spec cars have in the fuel tank, we don't have it over here. Also i'm fairly sure it's the top and bottom wires you swap on the TPS not the bottom two.
That may have to be the next step although I know that the IAC valve is operating in some fashion.
With the engine running I unplugged the IAC and the revs stayed at a steady 1700. Then plug it back in and the engine bogs and tries to stall then quickly unplug it again and it revs back to 1700
Also changed the MAF for good measure.... Made no difference at all ha.
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"Ignore the p0450 code , it's a pressure sensor that US spec cars have in the fuel tank, we don't have it over here. Also i'm fairly sure it's the top and bottom wires you swap on the TPS not the bottom two.
Yep will do. Is it fine to just leave the sensor after the charcoal canister tied up with the wires plugged in but all hoses off? Then just block the hole on the inlet?
Also the instructions that came from MWR with the swap harness defiantly says the middle and lower wire? s:? :? s:?
Wouldn't it cause much bigger problems thought if I had swapped the wrong wires? (Just to give me piece of mined ha)
Quote from: "p3t3"Is it fine to just leave the sensor after the charcoal canister tied up with the wires plugged in but all hoses off? Then just block the hole on the inlet?
That's how mine is.
A very good thread that shows doing the TPS wires. (2zz into 1zz celica)
m http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=329500 (http://www.newcelica.org/forums/showthread.php?t=329500) m
Quote3. TPS connector. This is where you would swap the wires on a 2zz swap. You swap the bottom and middle wires as it sits on the 1zz throttle body.
m http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/inde ... ge__st__80 (http://www.mr2spyder.net/spyderweb/index.php?/topic/1356-spyderguynys-2zz-swap/page__st__80) m
It is a long time since we did mine so i may be wrong with the TPS wires , and i don't have the car to check.
Quote from: "steve-m-uk"It is a long time since we did mine so i may be wrong with the TPS wires , and i don't have the car to check.
s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Indeed, you've come a long way since then s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Here is a crazy idea... How about if, getting caught up in the fun of the engine swap and with the thoughts of hitting lift getting closer by the muinet.... I had actually swapped the wires on the AIC plug and not the TPS plug....
Ive got that feeling in my stomach that that's what I've done :-S s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
I'll report back later today and if I'm correct in what I'm thinking I'll gladly take all school boy error abuse s:P :P s:P
I was going to say it may be worth checking the wiring ... but I didn't want to sound rude. One of the threads I searched, a guy said he was 100% sure he swapped the wires but when he went back to check ... he hadn't. I think he just put the wires back in the same place!
Of course, a wire may have fallen out ...
well just swapped the actual TPS wires round (not the AIC haha) and boooom!! perfect, no bogging and she sings at WOT now s:-D :-D s:-D
I feel like a rite dee dar!! ha
Still got the high idol but obviously that is due to the wiring been wrong at the AIC valve now.... my bad!
Cheers for all the input guys. masive help and confidence booster :-) :-) :-)
(http://smile18.com/imgs/celebrate/celebrate000.gif)
Time to celebrate ... with some LIFT!
Excellent news s:grin: :grin: s:grin: enjoy