OK, so I just wanted to start a proper progress thread for my new car. I'll still post silly questions far too often in the forums, but this is where I will document any work I do.
I found the car on Gumtree. I didn't realise it was a cat C in the past until I went and saw it in Glasgow (!!) but it was only £400 and I just thought screw it, I'm having it. I wanted a Rev 3 Turbo as a project for this summer but I saw this and thought what a great little car to use as a track day/fast road project, as well as it being a bit different to the four MK2's I have had in the past.
I've always missed the MR2's since breaking my last one. I made a huge mistake doing that. This is kind of a way to have fun while exorcising a few of those demons!
I'm still a bit sceptical about putting time and money into this car because of the Cat C in 2008, but on the flip side, if me or the Mrs bins it on track, it won't be the end of the world! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
First things to do are check the pre-cats, replace the knackered roof and put on the facelift alloys I have already bought. I need some tyres for them first though. Unfortunately when trying to remove the exhaust heat shield, the knackered old bolts totally rounded, so I am waiting on a set of bolt extractors to get them out.
The alloys aren't pristine, and I may try and refurb them myself but I'm tempted to just use them as is for now.
Hopefully, being on just 53k will mean a lot of the suspension components have enough life left in them to not need changing just yet. It does need a full geo doing.
Here it is:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140322_152019.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140323_123610.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140323_123324.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140323_123845.jpg)
Nice to find it has a TRD backbox on there. I'm not sure how to sort that cruddy tailpipe out though. Is it removable? Or would it have to be cut off and a replacement welded on? Or alternatively, as there seems to be a screw sticking out of it, is that just a cover part that can be replaced?
Picked the wheels up tonight:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140324_210407.jpg)
And a bunch of service bits to treat it:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140324_210524.jpg)
Long term plan is to either turbocharge it or 2ZZ it. I haven't quite made up my mind yet, but am leaning toward 2ZZ heavily despite my love of turbos. I like the cleaner nature of the engine bay, the purity of a quick, NA roadster and the OEM reliability it should have. I would love the power and delivery of the turbo, but would worry that I'd have to spend at least £3k on it, could encounter random issues that take the car off the road and have a messy, tightly packed engine bay......
I'm sure I will work it out in time. Once my current daily E60 535D sells, I will throw a couple of grand in the budget pot for the Roadster.
That's it for now s:) :) s:)
Glad to see your back in a 2 Jay be careful in this one and buy good tyres. I remember the turbo
Have you see the turbo kit for sale s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "cabbydave"Glad to see your back in a 2 Jay be careful in this one and buy good tyres. I remember the turbo
Cheers Dave, glad to see you're still on the scene. Running a Roadster now yourself?
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Have you see the turbo kit for sale s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;) s;) ;) s;)
Stop it! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I'm not able to buy anything yet. I wasn't even meant to buy those wheels...... s:flame: :flame: s:flame:
I have to wait for my E60 535d to sell before there's money in the restore and mod pot. Hopefully that won't take too long and I can then pay off the credit card and the finance!
It is great to have another 2. Probably won't inside and use it until the end of April now, so give me time to do the servicing etc. with no pressure.
It's the weekend! Yay! s:bounce: :bounce: s:bounce:
That means I can start with a service on the 2 and I can also have a go at removing the damaged heat shield bolts so I can check the pre cats.
Also ordered some Redline MT90 gearbox oil from Opie. Great service from them as always. Hopefully that might address the slight crunch going down into 2nd s:D :D s:D
Oh, I also have a working aerial on its way too.
Busy, busy.
Weather looks good for a blat too, or at least it does down here, hope you enjoy it s:D :D s:D
This past weekend, I managed to spend a little bit of time on the car. It was Monday before I managed to remove the heatshield though. What a ballache.
I ended up having to thread the grinder through the bottom of the car to get one of the lower bolts off as only one bolt came away intact on this. Hopefully I will find a way to get the remains out for the other 3 once the manifold is off the car.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140330_193454.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140330_193503.jpg)
Pre cats there:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140330_193859.jpg)
This O2 sensor was so hard to replace that my abs still hurt, 3 days later! The thread on it is knackered, and I've had to buy a replacement as this won't go back in in this state. The thread was welded into the manifold and has disintegrated during removal:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140330_194006.jpg)
This discoloured silver plastic stuck to various bits of the dash will be going!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/20140330_194503.jpg)
Progress has been a bit slow, but I should manage to get more done this weekend. I'll hopefully get the manifold off and complete the pre cat removal.
[Mod]Thread merged. Continuation of topic
Been on the look out for a 2nd car for a week or two now after realising just how much my blue one would need to bring up to a level I would be happy with and coming to the conclusion that I could get a non Cat C car with a knackered engine for similar money.
The original plan was going to be to get another blue one, as I think the roadster looks great in blue, but alas, it wasn't to be.
Agreed a deal of £475 for this instead, with me having paid a deposit and balance on collection in a few weeks. I'm going on holiday soon and then the seller is off on a stag do, hence the slight wait.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/1_12.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/2_12.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/93774737/MR-S/5_12.JPG)
Roof has one small tear. I wanted a perfect hood, but decided I could live with such a small tear for this money. I will repair it as best I can and forget about it until next year when I will review the situation.
Very happy for the money. It has a slight crack on the front bumper but there are no dents anywhere, which is a huge plus. I've got to figure out the best way of getting it 170 miles home now...... s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Personally I would have put the money for the car, the work for swapping engine, insurance tax etc... Toward the 2zz you are after. With £500+ your probably 1/3 of the cost into getting a 2zz in the back of your original car. Just my opinion, but good luck with both cars!
It's ok, once my other car sells I will set the wheels in motion, but with the wedding etc. this year I can't say for sure I will be able to buy the full set of swap bits before the winter. I'd rather use the car with a standard engine until then than just have it sat, you know?
What an absolute bargain find with the silver one !
Quote from: "mikews"What an absolute bargain find with the silver one !
Cheers, I'm pretty stoked with it! It was at £391 with about an hour left and had 7 bids up to that point. I'd been talking to the guy for a couple of days and he was very good with answering my many questions, so I made him an offer as he'd had a BIN price of £500 on it before the auction had a bid on it.
Very pleased. Will have to take a good look at the wheels and see whether I want to keep them or not, and also try and find out what springs it's running. I do think it looks pretty good as is, just needs the front lip adding.
Right, I should be collecting the silver car tonight. It's going to be a late one. Hopefully the Impreza will have no dramas with the towing!
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Right, I should be collecting the silver car tonight. It's going to be a late one. Hopefully the Impreza will have no dramas with the towing!
Good luck mate s8) 8) s8)
Cheers.
Made it back without any real drama, but it was half three in the morning!
Work will start tonight. I will be taking the cloth seats out to put the leather ones in that I bought from currymonster. While they are out I will do the bigfoot transmission cage mounts too....
So what's the plan between this and the blue one, make one good one out of all the bits or make one good one and sell one bad one?
Sell the bad one for bits once I have a good one built s:) :) s:)
Bit disappointed to find that the headlights look to be UK ones with the bulb hats bother removed. I don't like things that aren't as they should be, but I guess they will function just the same as normal import lights do.
The key is also screwed and falls to bits s:( :( s:(
Not best pleased in all honesty, but we are where we are and I'll fix it all.
Might sell the red leather door cards out of the silver car as I have black seats and cards to go in...
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Sell the bad one for bits once I have a good one built s:) :) s:)
Bit disappointed to find that the headlights look to be UK ones with the bulb hats bother removed. I don't like things that aren't as they should be, but I guess they will function just the same as normal import lights do.
The key is also screwed and falls to bits s:( :( s:(
Not best pleased in all honesty, but we are where we are and I'll fix it all.
Might sell the red leather door cards out of the silver car as I have black seats and cards to go in...
There are a couple of wanted ads for red leather door cards if you want to get shot.
Yeah, I will have to figure out what sort if price to ask and when I'll have time to actually remove them! s:D :D s:D
Finally made a start yesterday and took the cloth seats out. Also removed the door cards and put some black ones in but had to use cloth ones, as the leather ones I have have got tweeter cut outs that won't allow me to fit the tweeters I've currently got, so I'll put them to one side for now.
Centre console is out too and ready for me to fit the big foot shifter cage mounts.
Wish this rain would stop.....
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/25/a7ebavy5.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/25/epequ7ar.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/05/25/4ugaqega.jpg)
Nice to see it coming along
Feels good just to start getting on with it to be honest!
Spent a lot of time with the car's this weekend. I have now got them turned around and facing back to back for the engine swap.
Took out almost all of the interiors, swapped the black handbrake over into the silver car, had to put the cloth door cards in for now, as the leather have the tweeters cut out and my current ones won't fit. The leather seats are in and I swapped the cubby doors with the speakers into the car and moved the wiring across too.
Not sure if I'll keep those yet, but we'll see. Very tempted to get a couple of small 6.5" Subs to give the stereo some real punch.
I've found that the rear screws in the centre console spin, and also the handbrake has too much lever travel currently, so might take everything back out this weekend and address these issues before moving further forward.
I'm also probably going to rip out the stereo and put a proper install in, but nothing daft in such a small car.
The roof had a slight tear on one shoulder, so I have repaired this with patch aid and sikaflex. Won't know if it will hold until I lower it again. It's right when the roof folds so I am not really holding my breath to be honest, but we'll see.
A few pics:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/9u7aqevy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/ygazanem.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/zabu4uju.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/ydupa3a3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/suga6ynu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/04/epupyry6.jpg)
Fronts are also 17 inch and the wheels currently have 205/40 all round. I've been reading up via the search for the last couple of hours and it looks like the 225/35s are the ones most people would recommend, if they can find a set!
Do the 40s generally make a negative difference? I guess there are a lot of other factors to consider, and I am presuming these are 7J but haven't been able to check yet. Just hoping to gauge general impressions.
Rolling radius something to bare in mind 40 front 35 back be better.
Quote from: "tomaky"Rolling radius something to bare in mind 40 front 35 back be better.
Yeah definitely something I'm concerned about.
But as for widths ive run standard pre fl and 205 front 245 backs ha
245?! Christ!
teheheheh s:) :) s:)
its absolutlely fantastic!
I've read on here that the engine hasn't got any hooks on it to attach the engine crane.
How do others get on with this? Don't want to damage anything.
Lift the car using rear crash bar, remove engine from underneath
I got 2 big strops 1 under the engine between the sump and gbox then another 1 round the gbox end and attached to the engine crane we had the car up on axel stands dropped the engine then layed it flat on its front and dragged it out
cheers tommy
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Lift the car using rear crash bar, remove engine from underneath
I did similar to this, only had the car on axle stands though as with the rear crossmember off there is loads of space to slide the engine through if you rotate it 90 degrees.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Lift the car using rear crash bar, remove engine from underneath
That's the plan mate, same as doing it on my MK2, I'll need a way to suspend the lump to gently lower it down onto a trolley won't I?
No just support the engine from below-should be ok
This is where I get confused; how do I support it? The plan I was going with was to lower it down onto a pallet that has castors on it, then lift the car off and wheel it out. Nice and easy.
If I don't go with that plan, how will I actually support it from the bottom but be able to move it when the car is lifted off?
I lowered the car down so the engine was able to sit on a block of wood. Unbolted the mounts and lifted the car over the engine. Just dragged it out from underneath, its not heavy.
Fitted the 3SGTE back in as well without using a crane.
Ah cool, that sounds like a good idea. How did you avoid crushing the sump etc.? And did you leave the cross member on and take it all out together?
Sump will not crush unless you drop the engine. Dragging it does nothing except scrape it.
Tried to get engine past crossmember and it wouldnt go. Already had hubs disconnected to remove shafts so it was just the four bolts to remove the crossmember.
Great that gives me enough to go on I think. I'll lower it onto my trolley s:) :) s:)
Might return the two slings I bought as they are 3m, so will be 1.5m from the crane hook to the end of the sling.
Would this be right or will I be better off with a 2m jobbie? Better to be too long than too short of course...
I removed mine recently, used a 1 tonne engine crane and 2m lifting strop, if you want to leave rear crossmember on the car has to come up quite high at the back (I wanted to be able to wheel the car around after engine was out)
Trolley was made from off cut of MDF and some wheels from machine mart. I wheeled the trolley under, took the wheels off the car, lowered it down until engine was just resting on the trolley then pulled the engine mount bolts. The lower the better as it means the car doesn't have to come quite as high.
I then lifted the back of the car and just wheeled the engine out. Did plenty of planning and it went very smoothly. I did it on my own and never actually had to go under the car during the actual lift. The car is at a very steep angle by the time crossmember clears cam cover, but I think it looks scarier than it actually is!
Hope this helps
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p704/tjobrien72/4772EB62-A225-4A08-A24A-E9EA5B1E6080_zpsvcf7qmom.jpg) (http://s1347.photobucket.com/user/tjobrien72/media/4772EB62-A225-4A08-A24A-E9EA5B1E6080_zpsvcf7qmom.jpg.html)
(http://i1347.photobucket.com/albums/p704/tjobrien72/E9793000-5609-4C9C-A72E-F1223ADD8F3B_zpsxmpjh2w1.jpg) (http://s1347.photobucket.com/user/tjobrien72/media/E9793000-5609-4C9C-A72E-F1223ADD8F3B_zpsxmpjh2w1.jpg.html)
That's great, really helpful. Did you have to use anything to make the engine sit up ok on the trolley?
Yes I did, I should have made a proper softwood platform, but I cheated and the red trolley jack you can see is under the front engine mount, it just wheeled out with the engine and trolley, not pretty but it worked!
Ha, nice. Did you cut the exhaust rubbers off or did you manage to remove them intact?
The last one i did i used an old rug with the engine packed on timber and dragged it out.
(http://i1064.photobucket.com/albums/u373/RyanSwiftGTi/IMAG0247.jpg) (http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/RyanSwiftGTi/media/IMAG0247.jpg.html)
Well I haven't had much time to get on with this project recently. I managed to sort the handbrake lever having too much travel last weekend and I have made a start on stripping down the back end of the blue car for the engine and box to come out today.
I found a nice little treat in the car's airbox s:) :) s:)
I'm not getting near this again until probably Weds evening. I'm formulating my plan of attack and I think that I will unbolt the bars from the hub to the crossmember at the hub end and then get the crossmember removed before the engine comes out. Can I safely remove the crossmember before I'm ready to drop it? I figure it should sit fine on its mounts?
A few pics:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/u4esuga6.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/5aza7ady.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/06/30/dy5esu8e.jpg)
Nice!
Can you get away with not using the engine crane?
Quote from: "London2"Can you get away with not using the engine crane?
I didn't use an engine crane on my engine conversion.
I'm planning to transfer the hubs and driveshafts across with the engine and box, so with that in mind is it better or worse to remove the crossmember? I know that I will need to unbolt the arms from the crossmember to the hubs. It just seems like I could avoid a nice chunk of work if I can leave it in place.
Cross member removal is very easy, especially if you are removing the engine anyway it's probably only four extra bolts
Not worth trying to work around it then, I guess.
After removing one a few weeks ago, I'd agree with that
Fair enough. I take it it's safe to remove that in advance of removing the engine mount bolts?
I found the crossmember is very easy to work around, but if you were swapping out driveshafts and control arms anyway you might aswell drop it all out.
You asked about exhaust rubbers, I just sprayed WD40 on the hangers and levered them off with a large flat blade driver, saves buying new ones if they are in good nick.
Quote from: "TiM3"I found the crossmember is very easy to work around, but if you were swapping out driveshafts and control arms anyway you might aswell drop it all out.
You asked about exhaust rubbers, I just sprayed WD40 on the hangers and levered them off with a large flat blade driver, saves buying new ones if they are in good nick.
Ref exhaust rubbers 2nd that, they slide off surprisingly easy with some lube s;) ;) s;)
Righto. Looked like it might be a pig of a job, which had me a bit put off. I've got some lithium grease I can use.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Fair enough. I take it it's safe to remove that in advance of removing the engine mount bolts?
Absolutely. I did put my trolley jack under the gearbox when I had mine off but it wasn't really needed. It would have been fine on the other mounts
Nice one. Seems I'm well on my way then.
Off to collect a front bumper for the silver car now.... s:) :) s:)
So is the plan to remove everything good from the blue one, build up the silver one with those parts and scrap the blue one?
Sort of. I'll put a full car back together with the blue one and stick it on ebay most likely, as spares/repair.
That's how high I had the car.
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z163/Lee_H25/0777B103-BB24-43C5-8B5F-AF8E5766CBD1-1389-00000150CDE5A96B_zpse008660f.jpg)
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z163/Lee_H25/8E05D3AE-07F1-4DA1-AC9A-F85EF95A50E1-1389-00000150D5F34223_zps28f53ddb.jpg)
Running engine to on the floor in 3ish hours.
Cool, should make a bit back
Hopefully, even if it's just a hundred quid!
It's probably worth more if you break it for parts. Body panels, interior parts, etc
Probably but I can't be bothered with the hassle s:D :D s:D
Well the bumper was collected. It's very stone chipped, but it's all intact and is likely to see some gravel anyway when I get it on track.
I've also put a couple of new wheels on my trusty trolley. The trolley has now been used for MK2 engine swaps, moving MK2 shells around and is now going into the MK3 business s:D :D s:D
It's a bit big really for dropping an engine onto, but it will do the job. I have to build a second one out of the half size pallet I have spare so that I can swap the engines over with ease.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/gy4umevy.jpg)
Anybody else got any useful info for me?
I have 215/40/17 T1R on the rear of mine on a 7J rim and I am happy enough with those. :-) :-) :-)
215/40/17 compared to the stock FL 16
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/StueyC07/ROC/215-40-17.jpg) (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/StueyC07/media/ROC/215-40-17.jpg.html)
225/40/17 compared to the stock FL 16
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/StueyC07/ROC/225-40-17.jpg) (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/StueyC07/media/ROC/225-40-17.jpg.html)
225/35/17 compared to the stock FL 16
(http://i204.photobucket.com/albums/bb158/StueyC07/ROC/225-35-17.jpg) (http://s204.photobucket.com/user/StueyC07/media/ROC/225-35-17.jpg.html)
Some numbers for you to view relative to the rolling radius/diameter.
225/35 is not a bad match, I'd question the ride quality though. Depends on your type of driving.
I always thoguht until now Stu is useless but he goes and does that. Well played!
That's awesome Stu, thank you! May be easier to find 215/40's. If so, will the stagger be ok with my 205/40 fronts?
Did someone say backhanded compliment Tom? s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I have wasted many an hour (being paid s:wink: :wink: s:wink: ) going over tyre diameters & SLR's, ground clearances etc etc etc.
Plenty have run 205 front with 215 rears on 17's. I have switched and I am now running 195/40/17's on my front. :-) :-) :-)
Really it wants a set of 16's all round with better proportioned tyres, but I have to work with what I've got for now.
I'll see what comes up s:) :) s:)
Absolutely Stu! s:D :D s:D im still barter ing/ begging Nathan to buy the 17s.
[Mod]Thread merged.
Hi all, I am debating removing the driveshafts from the good engine/box combo and using those from the bad engine/box setup as they look to be in better condition, although I don't suppose surface rust really matters that much?
If I did want to remove them, how do I go about it? Are they just yanked out or are they fixed in somehow?
Also, the arms from the crossmember to the hubs, how do you unbolt the one at the very rear of the hub? The one which has an end on it very similar to a droplink. It looks like it may be supposed to have an allen key hole in the middle, but with all the grime and crap on there it might just be a small hollow on the end of the bolt?
Nobody knows? Searching isn't helping much so you guys are my only option!
I either keep the scabby huns and shafts and transfer them with the engine, but I have to find out how to undo that rearmost arm, or I leave the hubs and shafts on the car and drop the engine and box without them, but need to know how to get the driveshafts out of the box first. I'm stuck now until I figure this out.
Drive shafts you should rotate and tap, they should pop out once the C clips find a sweet spot.
Quote from: "foxy-stoat"Drive shafts you should rotate and tap, they should pop out once the C clips find a sweet spot.
I thought (from reading) that only nearside had the clip and the offside would just slide out?
I am assuming I must drain the box of fluid?
Whereabouts is it that I am actually tapping? Nothing I've read really mentions this, and is this done with or without the hubs still attached? In my head I am thinking unbolt the hubs from the shocks and I should have enough movement there for this?
The last time I tried to remove the shafts both needed a lot of persuasive tapping, I unbolted the shafts from the hubs though.
To unbolt from the hubs though, did you have to completely remove the hubs? I'm really not sure how to remove the rearmost arm bolt, the one whose ends is like a drop link. Looks like it will spin.
The rear arm you speak of is a taper fit so undo the nut and use a ball joint splitter to get the taper out of the hub. It takes longer to explain than it does to do it
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"The rear arm you speak of is a taper fit so undo the nut and use a ball joint splitter to get the taper out of the hub. It takes longer to explain than it does to do it
Thanks bud. Does it require an Allen key to hold the threaded part still? It's too crudded up for me to tell by looking.
Nope no Allen key required for this one
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Nope no Allen key required for this one
Nice one. So I now know how to take care of that.
Now, for the driveshafts, should I worry about them being scabby and change them over or not?
Driveshaft
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48092&p=556607&hilit=driveshaft#p556607 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48092&p=556607&hilit=driveshaft#p556607) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31283&p=381699&hilit=driveshaft#p381699 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31283&p=381699&hilit=driveshaft#p381699) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31047&p=378912&hilit=driveshaft#p378912 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31047&p=378912&hilit=driveshaft#p378912) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25250&p=312615&hilit=driveshaft#p312615 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25250&p=312615&hilit=driveshaft#p312615) l
Handy tip is to loosen the driveshaft end nut then tighten it finger tight.
Disconnect the suspension arms from the hub.
Swing the hub in and out to pull on the drivejoint and hopefully if it's in good condition it should pop out after a few pulls (waiting for inuendo's now).
Have a tray under there to catch oil coming out of the gearbox.
For splitting the balljoint
m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd7EFcthMrE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd7EFcthMrE) m
You can get a suitable one from Halfrauds.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Driveshaft
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48092&p=556607&hilit=driveshaft#p556607 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=48092&p=556607&hilit=driveshaft#p556607) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31283&p=381699&hilit=driveshaft#p381699 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31283&p=381699&hilit=driveshaft#p381699) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31047&p=378912&hilit=driveshaft#p378912 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=31047&p=378912&hilit=driveshaft#p378912) l
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25250&p=312615&hilit=driveshaft#p312615 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=25250&p=312615&hilit=driveshaft#p312615) l
Handy tip is to loosen the driveshaft end nut then tighten it finger tight.
Disconnect the suspension arms from the hub.
Swing the hub in and out to pull on the drivejoint and hopefully if it's in good condition it should pop out after a few pulls (waiting for inuendo's now).
Have a tray under there to catch oil coming out of the gearbox.
For splitting the balljoint
m http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd7EFcthMrE (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sd7EFcthMrE) m
You can get a suitable one from Halfrauds.
Cheers Nic. I've got the ball joint tools, and was actually going to use a fork thinking it would be easier?
I actually read both those threads you linked, but one said to tap with a screwdriver, but not where you actually do this, the other contained your post which seemed to suggest that they could just be pulled out.
I'm reading your response as they can just be pulled out and the loosening of the hub nut will give me a bit of movement I can use to do this. Am I on the right path?
Oh and are LSD and non LSD shafts identical, before I do this and find they're not? s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Well the bumper was collected. It's very stone chipped, but it's all intact and is likely to see some gravel anyway when I get it on track.
I've also put a couple of new wheels on my trusty trolley. The trolley has now been used for MK2 engine swaps, moving MK2 shells around and is now going into the MK3 business s:D :D s:D
It's a bit big really for dropping an engine onto, but it will do the job. I have to build a second one out of the half size pallet I have spare so that I can swap the engines over with ease.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/02/gy4umevy.jpg)
Ever think about doing this? :
[youtube:2sa2gs69]_cktlY8JfvQ[/youtube:2sa2gs69]
LOL I hadn't, but that's genius! s:) :) s:)
Shafts are identical, the only difference you will ever find is between facelift and pre-facelift cv joints and only then if you split them.
If the hub is loose but hanging on the strut then it should swing and the mass will help you ... some driveshafts do just pop out with a bit of suggestion.
You will fill your head up with doubts but the only real way to find out is to try.
"Salad forks" for splitting ball joints are quite old hat and damage the rubbers all too easily.
OK Cheers matey. You've answered my next question about whether or not to unbolt from the strut there too! s:) :) s:)
I use a old clutch fork for getting the n/s drive shaft out of the box. If you want to lend it ill give it to my son to take to Halifax so you can pick it up from there. Once you've loosened the 30mm nut off the other end of the shaft tap it through the hub with a large centre punch don't start beating the end of the shaft with a hammer as you will wreck the c/v joint.
Thanks Dave, if I don't have any progress this weekend I will probably give that a go.
From what Nic has said though, it sounds like I should be able to pull on the hub until the driveshaft pops out, so hopefully that will be OK?
What colour car are you keeping?
Quote from: "cabbydave"What colour car are you keeping?
Silver.
Well, I pulled at the offside hub and this is what happened...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/u3u6ugaz.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/hu5ygezu.jpg)
Looks like it's gone a bit wrong eh? s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Quote from: "cabbydave"What colour car are you keeping?
Silver.
Well, I pulled at the offside hub and this is what happened...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/u3u6ugaz.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/hu5ygezu.jpg)
Looks like it's gone a bit wrong eh? s:( :( s:(
That happened to mine as well ,no big deal i found it easier ,means you need to replace the grease instead of the gearbox oil ,so cheaper as well
Oh and the headlights without hats you mentioned earlier ,thats how they come on imports ,they have the screw hole for fitting the hats ,thats probably why they look like UK ones
Quote from: "trevsmr2"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Quote from: "cabbydave"What colour car are you keeping?
Silver.
Well, I pulled at the offside hub and this is what happened...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/u3u6ugaz.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/12/hu5ygezu.jpg)
Looks like it's gone a bit wrong eh? s:( :( s:(
That happened to mine as well ,no big deal i found it easier ,means you need to replace the grease instead of the gearbox oil ,so cheaper as well
Oh and the headlights without hats you mentioned earlier ,thats how they come on imports ,they have the screw hole for fitting the hats ,thats probably why they look like UK ones
Wait, so there's the holes for the hats on the import lights? Balls! I wouldn't have bought replacements if I had known that!
I already have new gearbox oil as I wanted to replace it, and I won't want to split the CV on the driveshafts on the other car, so I STILL need to get this out.
Any tips? Should I have unbolted the bracket on that side that is bolted onto the engine? I couldn't actually tell on that side whether I wanted to get the CV joint to come out of that bracket, or whether I wanted the shaft to come out at the gearbox itself? Obviously it's clear on the nearside that you are pulling it from the gearbox itself.
You know what, driveshafts being a bit less scabby looking isn't a good enough reason to waste my time on this!
Removed crossmember...
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/8e8udejy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/13/y4y2u9a8.jpg)
[Mod]Thread merged. Continuation of topic
How on earth do you remove the shift cables from the U shaped brackets they sit in above the gearbox?
Ok these were very tricky, but I figured it out s:) :) s:)
Engine out! Started the process yesterday and then realised I'd forgotten to disconnect the shift cables.
Went quite smoothly but the front bumper got scraped against the drive pretty hard as the trolley my engine was on sites quite high, so needed a lot of clearance.
Now I just have to do this all over again on the silver car, THEN reinstall the engines!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/vy3yradu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/epe8yny7.jpg)
Bit concerned by how crusty this looks:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/14/evude5es.jpg)
I do have a puller set, although not sure I can remember how to use it! Would people advise changing this pulley?
Might be rusty ,but theres no sign of oil leaks
All looks good other than the rust to be fair. If it isn't worth replacing it then I'd rather not to be honest.
BTW Trev, a search for how to re-tighten the clip on my CV boot that came apart led me to a similar post from yourself. Did you ever figure it out?
Wonder why it's all so rusty? Was it sitting not used for some time?
You know, it really would be quite rude to not put a 2zz in that gap
I'd love to if I had one available! I won't have the funds until next year now, unfortunately.
I'm not sure on the rust. I got the car from Glasgow, but having been a Cat C I guess it could have sat exposed to the elements in a salvage yard somewhere. I think there were a few years between the write off and going off the road.
You don't have to lift the car that high to get the engine out. I made a pallet on wheels just like yours but placed it in front of the engine in the middle of the car. Then just unbolt the rear crash bar and anti roll bar as well as the rat subframe. Lower the engine and box onto a few blocks then wheel the car forward.
Quote from: "Davegtst"You don't have to lift the car that high to get the engine out. I made a pallet on wheels just like yours but placed it in front of the engine in the middle of the car. Then just unbolt the rear crash bar and anti roll bar as well as the rat subframe. Lower the engine and box onto a few blocks then wheel the car forward.
That won't work for me as the engine crane won't slide under the pallet, plus I use the crash bar to attach the car.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"All looks good other than the rust to be fair. If it isn't worth replacing it then I'd rather not to be honest.
BTW Trev, a search for how to re-tighten the clip on my CV boot that came apart led me to a similar post from yourself. Did you ever figure it out?
No mate ,i bought the correct clip but you need a special tool to crimp them ,that i didn't buy ,so i used a metal cable tie
A metal cable tie? That's a new one on me! Has it held out? I find it really hard to accept that all that holds these together is essentially the CV boot! It's weird...
My TRD exhaust is covered in surface rust on the exit pipe. How should I go about tidying this up in a way that won't cause any damage, and is there anyone who sells replacement tail pipe sections?
Mine is held on with a grub screw but has seen better days and wants changing out.
Don't know about a replament tip, but some standard metal cleaner (autosol or similar) should clean it up nicely
Not sure if it is heavy duty enough, but I will give it a go, cheers s:) :) s:)
Scrub harder!
Hi all, looking for a little bit of advice. The blue roadster I have, a PFL MR-S import, is causing me a little dilemma.
When I am finished moving the engine across into the silver car, I am going to have to either break the blue one or put it all back together again to sell as a complete spares/repairs vehicle.
I'm a bit sceptical that a Cat C PFL import with a knocking engine will even make it to £200 to be honest, so should I break? The body panels aren't great, so doubt there's much value there. I'll have a non LSD 5sp box to sell and a knackered engine, so not much value there either. Cloth seats, Ditto.
It seems like I might be best just doing the whole putting it back together thing, but thought I'd seek some opinions.
I'd be inclined to say that it isn't worth much. However it would make an ideal basis for a track car. There have been plenty like that sold on here for that purpose.
Something to be aware on the breaking front, is the new policy on ROC about not allowing sales threads for breaking cars (as we want encourage restoration).
Ah great so that will make it even harder if I do break.... Surely that doesn't really apply to a cat C?
I guess you'd need to talk to the committee/mods about that as a specific case.
You could argue that cat c's are still sold to the public, just not desirable by many.
It doesn't matter how you look at it, breaking adverts are no longer allowed (barring those that already existed and will deplete).
The rule was brought in in such an uncompromising way because where one person will break for good reasons (they've crashed their car and need to get out of a hole), others will abuse it and use it as a commercial activity even in an amateur way.
So if you want to break a car you go elsewhere.
We want to save viable cars, not vandalise the dwindling numbers of cars on the road and available for enthusiasts.
OK. I guess I will spend some time putting it all back together then and sell it complete.
have you got time/space to refurb the engine?
Yes. I just don't know much about doing so. Never done an engine build before and not sure if the knocking is going to be bearings, if it has oval bores, if it does then do I need a new block etc.
Second guessing what may be wrong and what you may need to de-clunk your engine would be foolish at this stage.
If you're not confident around engines then you could always regard it as an opportunity to learn a new skill. Like most hobbies, it will consume a considerable amount of your time and money. If you're cool with that, go for it!
Ultimately, the choice to break or sell is something you need to decide for yourself.
Since you've asked though s:wink: :wink: s:wink: ..... based on the struggle you've had with some pretty rudimentary stuff, I fear that flitting between two cars will be too much for you to take on. So, weigh in the Cat C to put it well out of your reach and clear the space. Then concentrate on getting one good car on the road to enjoy.
I only really struggle because I like to be triple sure I'm doing things right before doing them, so ask a lot of questions, coupled with never having worked on a Roadster before all this s;) ;) s;)
There's no job I haven't managed to get done in the end once I've started it, even if there have been stumbling blocks! s:D :D s:D
I am tempted to have a play with the engine and maybe do a build for a future turbo conversion but on the other hand, there's very little spare money right now and any there is needs to go on getting the good one on the road.
Keep the engine for learning future build and ebay the rest, job done.
This is just my opinion, as my enthusiasm for cars grows daily, but if it was no financial burden to me I'd keep it and just chip away at it to the point where I could either sell it, or have a lovely 2nd '2.
Having a "broken" car to play with would be a wonderful luxury if I had the space. Hell you could even try out bigger jobs before doing it "for real" on your driveable car.
As you have stated, it needs quite a bit of work, so it's a great opportunity to pick up a wide array of skills.
could always go down the route of sandpaper. 800 grit, then 1200-1400 grit. Then a fine metal polish. If the rust is just on the surface, then this will tidy it right back up.
Mind, buy elbow grease in bulk.
EDIT: Depending on state of it of course. AutoSol may do the trick, it's pretty heavy duty stuff
You have looked on ebay or your local Halfrauds at exhaust tips?
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"You have looked on ebay or your local Halfrauds at exhaust tips?
Yeah but I wanted to know if there was an MR2 specific item available.
OK, the MR-S I have with the knackered engine in wouldn't start tonight when I went to move it. The engine knocks but does still run usually.
Tonight, I have tried charging the battery up fully and also tried charging a bigger battery from another car and using that and it doesn't try to start with either.
Car has no alarm/immobiliser on it. I just hear a click in the cabin but nothing else..... Pretty sure you have to depress the clutch to start it usually so have been trying that too.
Maybe the knackered engine has seized or the starter has? I'm stuck in two minds about whether to forget it and just get on with putting my good engine in it or whether to make sure it runs on this bad engine first. I feel like not making it run before I drop the engine is going to make it harder to figure out if it refuses to start once the swap is done.
Any ideas guys? Don't want to spend too long on this really but thought I'd ask.
Just out of interest, if both batteries I was trying were knackered but the charger says they are fully charged, I guess that's the most likely thing here?
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Just out of interest, if both batteries I was trying were knackered but the charger says they are fully charged, I guess that's the most likely thing here?
If the batteries are knackered, then you would just get the click you described and nothing else yes.
Try jumping off another car to be sure?
It's difficult to move at the moment. I need a new battery anyway when it goes back on the road so I'll just get on and buy one when we get paid.
I'll know for sure then, although engine will be out at that point s:) :) s:)
Just out of curiosity? Any issues if so? What size tyres and are you lowered at all?
Nobody? Was interested in finding out if there's any rubbing up front or at the rear on dips etc.
Shout up if you can help. s:) :) s:)
Think mine are ET35 might be worng, ive got 7" front on 205 40 17 and 7.5" Rear at 245 35 17.
I saw some nice Rotas for a great price but it would be a waste of time buying them if they won't do the car any good.
Well I have read up and know the tools I need now for the CV boot, so will order on payday later this week.
I've made progress into the silver car on Saturday. Removed the bumper, exhaust, bit of pipework, battery, airbox etc.
All that's needed now is to disconnect the AC compressor, disconnect the fuel line and a couple of cooling pipes and pull the loom through from the car. I can then drop the engine and get it out of there s:) :) s:)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/28/usevuqu4.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/28/rada3eny.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/28/9uhuzype.jpg)
DOnt see them being a problem but id wait for a expert ha.
Good work, but tight in the driveway!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Good work, but tight in the driveway!
Sure is! I've measured up and should be able to wheel the trolley under and out. Hopefully!
Get the bumper bar off out the way as well ,engine will come straight out the back then
Quote from: "trevsmr2"Get the bumper bar off out the way as well ,engine will come straight out the back then
It can't come out the back because the crane will be there.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Quote from: "trevsmr2"Get the bumper bar off out the way as well ,engine will come straight out the back then
It can't come out the back because the crane will be there.
Ok ,i didnt use a crane on mine ,dropped the engine onto a trolley with wheels
Same as I'm doing, but I'm using a crane to raise the car off the engine.
The wheels you quote are the fronts in the SP12 (ex Silverstone Performance) package. The rears are 8J ET50.
205/40/17 are the specified tyre for that wheel. There is a very small chance of the wheel hitting the lining, but a slight adjustment with a heat gun will bend it away.
Obviously if you've got those sized wheels all round you have to adjust the rear tyres to get the stagger"
Quote from: "roger"The wheels you quote are the fronts in the SP12 (ex Silverstone Performance) package. The rears are 8J ET50.
205/40/17 are the specified tyre for that wheel. There is a very small chance of the wheel hitting the lining, but a slight adjustment with a heat gun will bend it away.
Obviously if you've got those sized wheels all round you have to adjust the rear tyres to get the stagger"
Cheers, will the car handle better or worse with those on? I'd go 225 on the rear.
Well the engine is almost ready to come out of silver now. Just two mounts left to unbolt. Darkness has set in, so going to clear up the tools and get it out tomorrow night.
I have started taking photos of bolts as I remove them and then renaming the pic with what they came from. This has slowed me down a bit, but means I'll have a better chance of getting everything back together correctly!
Hmm roger ive got the sp12's ha and i run 245 backs haha atleast we know my guess was wrong on the ET but is the 8j supposed to be width?
Would this scenario mean I have to replace them or affect operation? The ball joints aren't ripped open, but getting a splitter on to disconnect them from the hub caused grease to be pushed out of both sides.
Would rather not replace them if I don't need to, as there's still plenty to do, but obviously if anyone better informed than I thinks that they will now be knackered then I'll have to find a way.
If they've just oozed a small amount of grease but are intact they should be OK. It happens sometimes when using joint splitters.
[Mod]And yes, I've merged this into your Project thread
Cheers, I will not worry about them then s:) :) s:)
Will 225/35 be ok on the back? I need to make up my mind on whether to make the guy an offer tonight I think....
Edit: Just looked at a rim/tyre calculator. Doesn't look like 225/35 will work, but not sure how to figure out which alternative tyre would be correct?
Why have 225 when you can have 245 haha
225/35'is the match for 205/40
Tough night last night. On the one hand, the bad engine came out with no drama. On the other, the good one didn't want to go in and I crushed an Aircon pipe. s:( :( s:(
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/30/9amemy5u.jpg)
Close to the wall! That rear quarter already needs a small repair though and I used a piece of wood to space the car from the actual wall.
Unfortunately I'm feeling pretty down about it this morning. I had really hoped to have the engine back in and on the left and right mounts last night. It looks like the bigger pallet that the good engine is sat on is too wide, and the car is sitting on the edge of it when I lower it back down which in turn is keeping it too high to bolt the engine back in.
It's really frustrating at this point, but if I have to raise it right back up and take it right out and get it onto a smaller trolley then so be it.
Soooo close! s:( :( s:(
I bent the Aircon pipe back into place and it didn't appear split etc. but in all the jockeying about it got crushed again! Argh!
Feel somewhat defeated just now, but I will go back and try again tonight. The worst part is how smoothly I managed to do it all, up until finding I couldn't lower the car far enough. After that, the various movements and trying to find a way through have resulted in lots of banging the engine against the bulkhead and so on. I'm sure nothing will be broken but it all feels a bit of a downer right now!
Small steps, it's a big job to take on on your nelly.
Just plan to have the engine in place and bolted in one day, then move on another day to pipes and wiring.
Take your time, rushing only bends things and gets you down (it would get anyone down).
It's a lot of work, stick with it - you are making good progress.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Small steps, it's a big job to take on on your nelly.
Just plan to have the engine in place and bolted in one day, then move on another day to pipes and wiring.
Take your time, rushing only bends things and gets you down (it would get anyone down).
Definitely right there Nic. I may well replace the Aircon pipe once the engine is sorted but I'm going to see if the current one is still able to bend back into place first.
I want the engine in tonight really. It will eat at me until it is. I need to enlist somebody to come and help me lift the engines off the pallets and swap them over I think. I have one last throw of the dice before resorting to that, and that's to remove the crossmember mount, as it fouls when trying to manoeuvre things into place and taking the bracket off might just give me that last bit of movement I need.
What are people using in the way of uprated mounts at the moment?
Can't find any trace of the Kirk's mounts I saw mentioned when searching. Speedsource ones are horrendously expensive because of MWR's exorbitant shipping fees and Eliseparts have Powerflex inserts but only for front and rear.
Anyone able to help?
m http://kirkosaurus.com/insertspagemain.html (http://kirkosaurus.com/insertspagemain.html) m = kirks
Cheers. Are his purely for front and rear? I thought he did all four.
Correct, the big one on the right is a wet damper type hence why it's so expensive from Toyota.
Ah OK. I guess they aren't as important at the sides as it's the front to back movement that's most in need of being controlled.
In that case, what's wrong with the Powerflex items for the 1ZZ Elise?
They're probably ok apart from how they mount to the chassis.
Either will do, the Kirks have a proven record and really aren't that pricey.
Obviously it's easier to put them in as you mount the engine.
The most movement (and therefore the most stress) you see is the engine tilting forward and back with power to the wheels.
No they're not a bad price at all. Just wish I'd thought of this before and ordered them ages ago.
Made progress last night, but there were ups and downs, as per.
The side skirt may be a bit damaged on the side of the nearest the wall now, as it ended up pushed against the windowsill. Didn't account for that happening! The perils of having to work in a confined space I guess.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/adaqesuz.jpg)
The good news is, I managed to get the engine in and bolted onto it's left and right mounts. It took a heck of a lot of messing about and I still couldn't get the passenger side of the car low enough.
Getting to the point of "enough is enough", I threw a sling around the gearbox and lifted that side of the engine until I could bolt it in. I was a bit nervous about doing this but felt that it was my last option here.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/ajadu8av.jpg)
There were also issues though...
I put together a little set up for moving the bad engine off of the smaller pallet:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/a9yvuqys.jpg)
That went quite well, but despite my best efforts when moving the good engine from one pallet to the other, the pallets separated and the sump hit the deck, denting the corner. I guess I will now have to swap that over.
The previous night's efforts had also caught and bent the aircon pipes were they come to the engine bay. Last night they split totally, with the gas oozing out and making a huge cloud down the side of the house. Really peeved me, but rather than dwell on it, I took the pipes off the donor car and replaced them. I left the pipes from the compressor disconnected to avoid the same happening again. Could really have done without it, but it's not the end of the world. Lesson learned here: screw the aircon next time, and completely disconnect it from the compressor. Makes this job ten times easier.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/yzuhy8u6.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/bamu2e8y.jpg)
Will do a bit more reconnecting things tonight if I can. Can see the finish line now.
I have a feeling it's a no no, but seeing as none of the ECPs local to me have a CV boot kit in stock, I thought I'd ask.
Failing that, have to try Toyota and see what they can do.
LINKY (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=50037&p=576124&hilit=cv+boot#p576124)
Cheers Stu. I'm reusing the boot itself as it's fine, it just came off the driveshaft when I was yanking at it, so I either have to undo and reuse the clamp, or find a new clamp. Was going to buy the kit just for the clamp, but not for £60!
If the clamp is a proper Toyota one and in good condition you can usually reuse it.
They have a self tightening cantilever type design and then you fold over the tabs to lock it.
Probably a generic self locking would do the job too, you just can't use generic boots.
It does appear to two tabs that close over the top of it. I've ordered some CV boot pliers and. tensioner tools, but I'm not entirely sure how to take it apart and re tighten it, never having dealt with one of these before.
No need for those tools, like i said it's a self tightening cantelever design
you push it down and close the tabs over it = job done
Ah right, great lol. So how do you release one? It's still locked on the boot. The whole lot came off in one piece!
And how do you make sure it's tight without the tools? Obviously want it as tight as possible when locking in place. Sorry of that's a stupid question but as I say, I haven't messed with one of these before so don't know how it will work.
I think I tried to put the wrong shift cable in the right hand bracket, and now one of them has snapped its casing and the inner cable has been exposed. Are there any issues with leaving it like this or should I swap out the cable?
What a ball ache..... I think being sensible, I should just replace it. I don't want any bodges on this car.
At the lever end, are the cables still in the same side as they are where they are mounted in the engine bay? i.e. the one in the right hand bracket as you look in from the back connects to the shifter on the driver side?
Anybody know, re: the position of the cables?
EDIT: Just read this and not so sure now that it's worth doing, as I don't fancy removing brackets etc!
m http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/mk3- ... placement/ (http://www.midshiprunabout.org/mk3/mk3-transmissions/shift-cable-replacement/) m
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Anybody know, re: the position of the cables?
Have you considered moving the inner cable to see what happens at the other end? Surely that would answer your question?
Not sure what you mean? All console is on in the car so I could move the gear lever but couldn't see which goes where.
I'm taking the cables off the donor car now and can honestly say I don't think this is possible with the engine in place.
From working on the donor car it is now clear that lots of time and pain will be saved by just dropping the tank.
Well I did it, and what a complete sbastard bastard sbastard that was! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Well.... Last night I badly sliced my finger pulling the shifter cables out. One of the U brackets took exception to this and gave me a deep cut that wouldn't stop gushing blood.
I discovered that one of the shifter cables had a broken outer casing, and so posted up to see whether it should be replaced, but deep down I just knew I was going to have to change it.
I set to work on the donor car, thinking that I'd be far better off making mistakes on that one first. I actually ended up completely removing the tank on that one and knackered the connector to the fuel pump as I could not fathom out how to disconnect the bugger. I drained out the fuel that was in there and then went back and removed the cables.
It was a hell of a struggle doing the replacement on the silver car with the engine now in place, but I got there in the end!
Some pics of the process:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/ybuteby3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/7ybu8e5a.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/a6adaru2.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/a2enu9as.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/yna9ajem.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/apugyga3.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/anaby8ym.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/02/uhepa2eh.jpg)
Bolted it all back together after that and reconnected all the fuel lines etc.
It feels a bit like I'm stuck in one place currently, as I'm having to address various issues before moving forward, but it feels great everything I get a job done.
Wasn't thrilled about having to take the seats back out though. Pain in the backside.
It' s been mentioned before : Preparation, perspiration and perseverance = good luck.
I'm certain your going to make this formula work!
Sure hope so! Can't do anything today due to going to a wedding. Bah!
You might get lucky there s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Joesson"You might get lucky there s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Well I was with the Mrs... so all good s:) :) s:)
Just want to check this before I go ahead and use some I took off the car previously.
Will order new ones tomorrow otherwise.
Multi-use unless you've mullered them.
I've got at least a pair that look fine s:) :) s:)
Cheers matey s:) :) s:)
Mine look pretty mangled and horrible by now.... but still a multiuse item and in use s:lol: :lol: s:lol: doing the job fine.
Anyone know if there's a trick to refitting these, or are mine knackered? I would assume they are tapered and would stop spinning once in far enough, but I've tried all sorts and had no luck driving them in any further.
Clean out any trace of oil/grease from the hole and the ball joint spindle. Make sure nut and bolt threads are intact and snag-free. Get a big clamp on the arms to press them tightly into the hub hole and hold them there as you drive the nut on.
They are taper, g- clamp if they don't tighten
I actually tried with a g-clamp but couldn't get it to stay in place and decided I'd had enough!
Will try again tomorrow. I just couldn't get the clamp to grip properly without slipping when tightening. Had limited time to work today.
Planning to have a go with this tomorrow or Tuesday.
Only did a few small jobs today. Reconnected most of the bits around the passenger side rear hub.
Also installed the ultimate shift bushings from Nathan:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/04/y3a9yzuj.jpg)
Threaded the end of the loom through into the car and started the process of reconnecting things.
As said, give yourself the best chance and clean any grease out of the hub and off Of the tapered arm
I'll have another go tonight. Problem with the g clamp is it slips off the arms when trying to clamp. Suspect it will be a case of perseverance!
I must admit I didn't even need a clamp for mine, taper griped early and I had no problems
Lucky you! I did at one point grip one of them with grips that have left marks. Have to check it isn't more than superficial.
Anyone know? Just want to check before I make a wrong move. The car has skirts and will get a front lip. Don't really want it to end up catching all the time but I'm preferring 16" wheels over 17"....
the size of wheel makes no difference if you use the correct tyres
Good point
Bit of research has me thinking 205/45/16 up front and 225/45/16 rear on a 7J rim, ET40. that's about closest I can get to OEM spec, but it loses 4.5mm of arch gap at the rear. That concerns me when coupled with the springs.
Profile is way too high on the front for 205's, arguably too high at the back, try 40 instead
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Profile is way too high on the front for 205's, arguably too high at the back, try 40 instead
I've been putting the OEM facelift sizes in here and comparing:
m http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?wi ... 40#content (http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=45&diameter=16&wheelwidth=7&offset=45&width2=225&aspect2=40&diameter2=16&wheelwidth2=7&offset2=40#content) m
Those sizes I mentioned seem to be the closest match? What are you running?
Read some other posts on here now where others have also run with the 45's. They do seem to be very close to OEM numbers?
BTW, when removing one that I test fitted back in place before asking this, I managed to deeply slice my index finger. I've never seen so much blood!
Be careful kids s:D :D s:D
(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z163/Lee_H25/51164F36-10C0-401F-86D7-E1459E62A2B4-3058-0000037CFF986144_zpsb28c8c83.jpg)
16's with 195/45 fronts, 225/40 rears with TTE springs. Sits lower than most due to silly heavy engine.
Well you know, do what you like and don't bother asking. Plainly your research hasn't been that in depth yet. Try the tyre review thread in the performance section.
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Well you know, do what you like and don't bother asking. Plainly your research hasn't been that in depth yet. Try the tyre review thread in the performance section.
No need to be like that? I have been at work all day but I found someone on Spyderchat running the sizes I mentioned, as well as someone on here and the tyre size calculator also seemed to suggest they'd be a good match. I still want to hear from experienced owners like yourself before making any firm decisions.
I only ask because the one of mine that came apart was full of a cream coloured grease. I'm all set to put it back together with a tube of proper CV grease I've had a few years, but the tube contains a black grease.
I can't imagine it makes any real difference, but I did think I should check before going ahead.
Yeah, it's a moly grease which should be used for all bearing type applications.
I've never seen anything other than dark grey / black but hey, why not white? s:D :D s:D
I've saw it cream coloured when the boot has been split and water has got in.
Ah I bet that's what it is, water ingress. It did slip off very easily.
Quote from: "Lee H"(http://i192.photobucket.com/albums/z163/Lee_H25/51164F36-10C0-401F-86D7-E1459E62A2B4-3058-0000037CFF986144_zpsb28c8c83.jpg)
16's with 195/45 fronts, 225/40 rears with TTE springs. Sits lower than most due to silly heavy engine.
Looks great s:) :) s:)
Do you find the speedo reads OK with those rears then? I only thought 225/45 because of the size calculator website.....
Good progress last night; reattached the clutch slave cylinder, the front and rear engine mounts and the driver side inner CV joint s:) :) s:)
Slave cylinder caught me off guard when refitting. It had totally escaped me that it would be fully extended and I would have to keep fettling it. When it's like that it honestly doesn't feel capable of pushing the clutch fork!
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/nyma5uza.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/qu6apepy.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/06/ytu8agan.jpg)
So, remaining jobs off the top of my head:
- Reconnect remaining hoses, get battery tray back in
- Refit rear suspension arms
- Get the interior back in
- Refurb calipers probably
- Fit TTE springs
- Find someone to weld the footrest bolts back in
- Upgrade engine mounts
- Sort tyres for my new wheels... s;) ;) s;)
Getting there now, but probably missed this summer with it!
So what sizes front and rear should I run with 16x7 ET40? I've read the tyre review thread and have noticed there are lots of people running 225/45 on the back, and lots running 225/40.
Doesnt seem to be a real consensus on there.
Up front people are alternating between 195 and 205 in various profiles.
No idea on speedo, not had any tickets so guess it is still ok for accuracy.
Righto. Thanks for sharing. Are you running a V6?
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Righto. Thanks for sharing. Are you running a V6?
Nah, 2.0 turbo from a mk2.
daft question but you do realise that sidewall profile is a percentage figure not a measurement?
Quote from: "markiii"daft question but you do realise that sidewall profile is a percentage figure not a measurement?
I do, yes.
I will add again though; I was led to believe that the sizes I originally mentioned were correct by the size calculator website I used.
What I'd like to know really is what the ideal combo would be for my new 16x7s.
195 or 205 front? And which profile combined with the 225/40 rears that I am being steered towards (for my own good no doubt s:D :D s:D )
Ok managed to sort them. I think one side is knackered though, as on one side the rubber boot goes up to the arm but the other side doesn't and shows an exposed bit of ball joint shaft.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/07/da8agabu.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/07/ma8atuje.jpg)
Not the best night's work tonight. Feeling mightily frustrated. Every time I want to move forward, another job seems to pop up to prevent this.
So I reattached the rear arms, but I think one of them may need replacing. Then I went to sort out the rear calipers and get them reattached to the hub. Unfortunately the seal around the piston on one of them looks like this:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/07/uhy7u3a7.jpg)
Went to swap it out for one of the spares from the other car, but the pin didn't want to come out as it was all a bit rusted. A bit of hammering later and it was out, but the part the handbrake cable mounts to was now bent a little bit. Hammered it back to where it should be.
Took it to one side and wire brushed it to tidy it up a bit, and greased the sliders. Unfortunately one of the slider rubbers absolutely steadfastly refuses to go where it should. It just won't go in when the caliper is reassembled:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/07/bunuvy4e.jpg)
It has been a long time since I had a caliper apart, so I'm unsure if I need a new rubber for the slider, or if it is meant to be very difficult to fit.
You can replace just the boot, a damaged boot can be an mot fail I think now.
If it's inaccessible before now I've put a blowtorch on the hole side, banged it in, cooled it then gently done up, like a cheeky little heat fit.
Just need to get an answer on this before I keep trying to move forward with the current parts.
Due to the rear calipers on my car being in poor condition, I went to change them over last night for spares. Unfortunately the spares aren't pristine and I wanted to tidy them up a bit. I've found that the rubber boot for the slider pin is very difficult to get fitted, as if it's a bit too big for the hole it sits in. I manage to just get it in, but then putting the slider pin back into the hole displaces it and it is then impossible to refit it while the pin is in place.
My worry is that someone has used the wrong type of grease and the rubber has expanded, but as I haven't done anything like this in a few years I really wanted to check with people in the know. It may well be that it's supposed to be difficult, but I would think it should fit very snuggly and be reluctant to come back out.
The boots help prevent the slider becoming siezed , and the caliper sticking. Which as you know is a common problem.
If it were me, I'd absolutely replace it, but ultimately, it's your call.
Well yeah, but what I'm saying is that I think it has swollen up due to the wrong grease. I just want to be sure that is absolutely the case and that they aren't a tricky fit to start with before replacing, as it is intact and looks in good nick otherwise.
Mine were a perfect fit
Righto. That's good enough for me. Cheers matey. This one really needs fettling, like it's almost too big. Must have been ruined.
Yet another job for the list....
If I can't buy a boot on its own, it looks like having to buy a refurb kit. If I buy a refurb kit, I'll feel obliged to do a full refurb of both rears. Never done that before and they look in good condition otherwise. Bit reluctant to do it really....
The rear brakes on the 2 seem to have a lot of threads/ comments and how to's about various problems on this forum.
As you are more than half way to a refurb on your calipers now, if you put it all back with that job half done I think you will regret it in the not to distant future.
To be honest, If I was doing all the work that you are doing, I would fit two refurb calipers on the rear, they are a known weak point so imagine how frustrating it will be to have to tear it all apart again because the rear calipers are sticking or similar
Do you mean buy refurb units or do the full refurb on mine with the kit?
I do absolutely see sense in either method. A big part of why I end up doing stuff like this is so that I have a car that drives like new and everything is as it should be.
If I'm honest I'm just a bit worried about the prospect of taking the job on and then something either going wrong or it taking me ages to do. I've never removed a brake piston and seal before.
Either option, it's personal choice. I chose to buy refurbed, but I was in a bit of a rush and had other stuff on my plate
Been reading a few threads on here about this and it sounds like some people have used these, but there seems to be a bit of a conflict of opinions.
The reason I ask, is A) because I need a new battery and B) because I have two MR-S cars, both PFL and they each came with a different sized battery, and different sized clamps to suit the poles.
Bit confusing to say the least!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Either option, it's personal choice. I chose to buy refurbed, but I was in a bit of a rush and had other stuff on my plate
I'm getting fed up of being out there in the dark doing something different to what I went out to do in the first place! s:D :D s:D
They seem to be either 005,158 and 159.....Halfords differ again 053 and 057......watch you don't get caught out with the terminal positions,you can have the correct battery with the terminals the wrong way round.
Sure is! How in earth am I to know it's correct? Just be happy if it fits and the poles are the right way? s:P :P s:P
Try CTP, then you have no doubt. The search facility does also work in this regard, if you type in halfords battery.
Please be assured that I ALWAYS search before asking stuff. Search is a waste of time when it returns a mixed bunch of results.
I want a Bosch S4 rather than a Toyota battery also, so don't want to waste CTP's time.
Eurocarparts do the Bosch S4 £52.39....the 158 and 159 seems to be for the pole positions as the batteries are identical apart from this.
Quote from: "Markb"Eurocarparts do the Bosch S4 £52.39....the 158 and 159 seems to be for the pole positions as the batteries are identical apart from this.
They also do a 005 version, at £62. How can I tell which I should be running?
Found the two that came with the cars:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/08/y3uguban.jpg)
MR-S as standard has smaller battery clamps than the UK spec (cos the batteries have smaller terminals). Its not unusual to find that previous owners have mullered the clamps by bending them to fit UK-spec batteries. Often the lugs on the battery box retaining clamp are ground off too so that a wider battery can be fitted.
Can I suggest that you figure out which clamps you're going to keep on your wiring loom and what width of battery the retaining clamp is configured for?
And then go back to the Europarts site and check the product details for the battery size, terminal size and orientation that fits your needs. All of the specifications are there. Its a good opportunity to apply those search skills. s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Lol ok sure. I didn't actually realise they listed anything about the size of the poles. I'm definitely keeping the larger terminals.
I didn't want to just throw anything that fits in there if there's a standard.
Bollocks. Bad night tonight......
I put the better caliper on, just to be able to move the car when it gets back down on the ground. I will sort the refurb out after I finish the engine install.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/08/u8ysety5.jpg)
Anyway, after reading Nathan's post on the ultimate shift bushes thread about them meant to have lithium grease on them, I decided to take mine off again, clean them up and put the correct grease on (I'd used copper slip).
Guess what? They were on so tight, that when I eventually managed to yank the shift cable off.... You guessed it; I snapped the casing on it.
Can't bloody believe it. What a screw up. Feel a bit soul destroyed tonight. Had to just pack up and quit for the night after that.
The only plus points are that I didn't yet replace the interior and I snapped the opposite one so again have a spare. I'm really annoyed with myself though.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"I didn't want to just throw anything that fits in there if there's a standard.
Someone did that with mine s:lol: :lol: s:lol: looks like an 075 Ford type Unipart battery that sits on the tray rather than in it,deffo not the tall thin type that should be in there (same as my Rav4).....it does the job but i know its not correct,must have another look to see what it actually is,just wondering is it the 005 like your pic.
Let us know s:) :) s:)
Its a Unipart GBA3027........seems to be in quite a few cars,as i said it sits on the tray rather than in it but its clamped down ok,it will do me for now.
Having a night off tonight and will attack with renewed enthusiasm on Saturday. Will get started early.
The plus point to all this is that I know the roadster inside out now!
Nice one.
I am sticking with the 005 I think. It seemed to fit well in the car so will do I think.
ECP don't list the size of the poles, but they do list the other dimensions, which are as follows:
005
•Amp Hours: (Ah): 60Ah
•Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 540cca
•Length: 232mm
•Width: 173mm
•Height: 225mm
158
•Amp Hours: (Ah): 45Ah
•Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 300cca
•Length: 238mm
•Width: 129mm
•Height: 225mm
159
•Amp Hours: (Ah): 45Ah
•Cold Cranking Amp: (CCA): 330cca
•Length: 238mm
•Width: 129mm
•Height: 225mm
Quote from: "bluesmoke"ECP don't list the size of the poles........
Ummmmm, yes they do.
They don't on the website I am looking at. Just the info posted above.
Perhaps they have a different website in Yorkshire s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
click (http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Toyota_MR2_1.8_2000/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444770057&1&e303bcce60252c877494bc36f75693bba0df6d47&000020)
Quote from: "spit"Perhaps they have a different website in Yorkshire s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
click (http://www.eurocarparts.com/ecp/c/Toyota_MR2_1.8_2000/p/car-parts/car-electrics-and-car-lighting/electrical/car-battery/?444770057&1&e303bcce60252c877494bc36f75693bba0df6d47&000020)
Possibly! I see terminal type listed, but not actual sizes?
How very odd.
Quote from: "spit"How very odd.
What size do you see for the poles? It's possible I'm somehow looking at it wrong?
Doh..... switched from mobile to desktop site. It all now becomes clear!
*sound of head hitting keyboard*
Anyone able to assist me re: best sizes all round?
Having read this, I think probably not:
m http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 6&p=479513 (http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40596&p=479513) m
But could you take the face from a UK clock? Reason I ask, is I'd quite like the UK style if I ever take the car into Europe.
Not gonna happen anytime soon, but I'm VERY bored at work today s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Anyone able to assist me re: best sizes all round?
The best ones are all round s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
*runs away*
(http://media.giphy.com/media/7kn27lnYSAE9O/giphy.gif)
(No sorry, I'm clueless on sizing tyres).
LOL Cheers buddy! s:D :D s:D
If you want to put UK clocks in a import you need to remove the little wiring mod that people put on to convert your clocks from kph to mph and bin it. Then get your UK clocks plug them in and its done. They will read in mph and be as accurate as the next mr2.
Are you sure? The thread I linked to shows a guy whose car has UK clocks but still reads in KPH.
That's because they haven't removed the chip, I would assume
Well if it doesn't work my car is the odd one out
That's cool, can't believe it's so easy! Would have thought the speed limiter would be in the ECU and would still need disabling etc.
Will stick this down on the list then for a future mod. Can mileage on clocks be changed by anybody non dodgy to show same as the ones being replaced?
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Would have thought the speed limiter would be in the ECU and would still need disabling etc.
I *think* you're spot on on that, thinking back to an old thread where someone was having dash/speed limiter issues.
I *think* doing the above will work fine for speed readout, but that you then need to convert the signal heading back from clocks to ECU to remove speed limiter issues.
were it me I'd run 195/45/26 and 225/40/16
should be close enough
Quote from: "markiii"were it me I'd run 195/45/26 and 225/40/16
should be close enough
Might look like a monster truck from the front though?
s:D :D s:D
I would have thought it works the same as the mk1 and mk2 so the clocks send the signal to the ecu to limit it otherwise how did someone on here get 140= out of his 2zz engine mrs with a jdm ecu fitted? Best thing to do is try it and rag your car if it wont go over 120 then its in the ecu not saying how far over this my car goes
Lots done today. I managed to change that pesky shift cable, and that was a nightmare, get the remaining pipework, battery tray and airbox back into the engine bay and get the sump off the knackered engine to swap over.
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/6e6y4a9a.jpg)
Also got the manifold on, using the new nuts from Toyota:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/ta3a9y3u.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/3edyveve.jpg)
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/u3ypa6ym.jpg)
Put a new drive belt on. The old ones I had were both cracked to hell:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/egu9u6u3.jpg)
Unfortunately I also discovered this, just after putting the tank back in place:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/08/10/aryze2a4.jpg)
This slipped under the radar before, as the cable was detached and the rubber boot fully compressed. Not happy. Is this an MOT fail?
I decided not to worry about this until the car is running. Then I'll get to it if I have to. I also had one spare but the rubber boot is crack on the outside a bit, so it will soon go the same way. There was no way I was going to swap in a cable that may only last a few weeks before ending up the same way.
It's very positive overall though. I hope to have it running tomorrow night....
I forgot to take a photo so will add one tomorrow, but basically I have two manifolds that are both supposed to be stock, but they are quite different.
One has a very thin plate where it bolts to the engine and domed pre cat chambers, the other has a thick plate where it bolts to the car and effectively flat topped pre cat chambers.
Does that mean anything to anyone? Pic tomorrow!
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Having read this, I think probably not:
m http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php? ... 6&p=479513 (http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40596&p=479513) m
But could you take the face from a UK clock? Reason I ask, is I'd quite like the UK style if I ever take the car into Europe.
Not gonna happen anytime soon, but I'm VERY bored at work today s:D :D s:D
Yes ,just swap over the face of the clocks, leave everything else as is ,including the original mileage readout
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2524.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2527.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2526.jpg)
That's a lot of hassle....I bought our 350z from Ireland so it had kph. I just got a mph cluster from a crashed car, and swapped the whole unit over. 5 min job. Then I paid £50 to have the mileage reset!
Didn't one of your cars have a different backbox?
Maybe it had a whole system ?
I hope you are de-precat modifying before refitting.
The manifold with the thin plate with folded edges and domed precats chambers is the description for an OE manifold.
As meeerrk said the other is aftermarket.
Whichever you decide to use ensure there is no precats material in it.
Why the sfuck fuck sfuck have they merged my threads again? The question about the manifolds is nothing to to do with my project!
I'm sick of this now. I just wanted to know more information about a couple of things and the mods have decided to ruin my project thread instead. It's now not just related to progress on my car but has off hand questions about unrelated stuff merged in. I must have missed the rule that says you are only allowed one current thread on the forum at any one time!
To get this back on track after the sabotage, I've been rained off today, so my hopes of having it running are on hold until the weather clears up. I want to get the sump on and leave it to set overnight before filling with oil really.
Went out tonight and managed to change the sump over for the non dented one!
Unfortunately I was a bit cack handed putting the crappy one on the broken engine and threaded a couple of the sump bolt holes, as I wasn't paying much attention. Doesn't matter really as I won't be trying to rebuild that engine. We are likely to move house before I get round to doing that so I would have to cart it about somewhere else and I really can't be bothered with that.
So the sump is on, I've got to leave it 24 hours to set now and then I can look at filling it up with fresh oil.
I cleaned the pan out as best I could.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/11/3da4de511ce760c67ffe7ec4c1b156ee.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/11/6bb764ab0ee5bc383b02bff9f7544464.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/11/49570ed519ae40e72b7dcfedcd4db355.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/11/5c53fbf7366d77f44192fcdf0af133c8.jpg)
Well tonight I will have left the sump 48 hours near enough. If it stops raining for just ten mins I will put the oil in, then I'll do the coolant and the battery and will try to fire it up!
Hope to God the sump doesn't leak. I have tried to do the bolts up tight without going overboard as they will thread the holes easily. I would like to know how tight you can do up the two studs though. I may not have gone far enough with them.
I have noticed a bit of water inside the car so need to figure that out. Some of it is in the recess where one of the bins goes, so I will look at the drain on that side.
I usually go round both sides of the holes for the bolts , on the sump , with sealant, but hopefully you will be okay. Always a nervous time filling with oil after sump replacement.
Yeah only the 2nd time I've done it and after bolting on noticed a bit of paste had been left where I'd brushed it while refitting. The studs were worrying as one of the old rusty ones snapped when I swapped it onto the broken engine, which got me too nervous to risk over tightening them on the good one.
Yep, they are fairly small. I usually use a quarter inch drive socket set for doing those up, to give them half a chance. s;) ;) s;)
Me too s:) :) s:)
are you not interested in finding the correct torque value?
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"are you not interested in finding the correct torque value?
I am yes. Just getting everything to a certain point and then planned to go round all the suspension arms etc. and do this. The problem is if I start a topic asking for the torque settings it will get merged to this thread. If I ask on this thread, less people who could potentially help are going to see it. It's almost not worth it mate.
Found them via search so that solves that one, but just as I thought they are much lower than my mahoosive torque wrench will do, so I'll need a new one. s:) :) s:)
The vast majority of torque settings have already been published around the site so it's good you managed to find them yourself ok.
I do keep thinking that must get a smaller size torque wrench for those types of jobs.
I've just bought a 1/4" Drive torque wrench on my way home. £24 at Machine Mart!
IT'S ALIVE!!!
Started up? Well done
It did! So pleased. Sounded good and healthy too.
Unfortunately I've wasted a big bottle of coolant as I only realised it was ready to use stuff when I'd heavily diluted it. I have no idea how long the old stuff was in though so a flush will do it good.
Sure I ordered pre mix coolant!
Good on you!
Pre mix coolant...ready to use, that's what you got by the sounds?!
Sorry I meant I thought I had bought something that I'd have to dilute, but turns out I either didn't or I've been sent the wrong one. It was ready mix that was already a 50:50 concentration.
It'll be fine for the warmer months anyway
True!
SO..... After starting the car both the CEL and the ABS lights are on. Once I get the interior back in and the exhaust and bumper back on, I guess I need a J-OBD reader or to learn about the paperclip method.....
Err anyone know what this is?!
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/14/d1556013d75e1345af8c2a42f5d858ab.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/14/bea65ae88079780461f248678b6b05ad.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/14/6ff9de330878d9c5a363c0ec404eda9c.jpg)
Did the paperclip trick. Getting a code for an O2 sensor which is fine. Plenty of spares! Getting an ABS light code for the brake lights because they are not connected yet.
More curiously, the power steering light is flashing 53 and I can find nothing for this.
Nothing too major then. And let's face it, you've got enough bits to fix pretty much anything!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Nothing too major then. And let's face it, you've got enough bits to fix pretty much anything!
Yup and a good job it has been at times too!
Engine seems quite smoky at the moment, so hopefully that's going to clear up. Sounds nice enough.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Engine seems quite smoky at the moment, so hopefully that's going to clear up.
You put the right engine, back in the good shell, right?! s:D :D s:D
Probably just the oils and greases you used on parts burning off..... Hopefully
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Engine seems quite smoky at the moment, so hopefully that's going to clear up.
You put the right engine, back in the good shell, right?! s:D :D s:D
Yes haha! I checked all my sump bolts last night BTW with the new 1/4" torque wrench - I'd already reached or exceeded the specified torque s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Probably just the oils and greases you used on parts burning off..... Hopefully
Most likely! That and the damp etc. that the whole exhaust system will contain thanks to being outside in the rain this week!
Did a bit of coolant bleeding too. Fair bit of air released. Will run it again tomorrow and do it a couple more times to make sure it's all out. Need to get rear bumper and lights back on, swap out the dodgy aerial, swap out the bad O2 sensor then I will get the wheels on and move the car out onto the road where I've got enough room to fully bleed the entire braking system and swap whichever calipers over I want to. Do need to get those slider rubbers changed though.
Had a look around under the frunk plastic too. Steering UJ looks a bit rough but doesn't seem to have any play.
Unfortunately the screw in spare wheel holder has been sheared and there's not enough showing to get it out with mole grips. Looks like a difficult task with the drill for that one....
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/14/f423cc1db2bea03102d7e1f9e9d57059.jpg)
Get those ps pipes cleaned up and treated for rust!
Quote from: "Wabbitkilla"Get those ps pipes cleaned up and treated for rust!
Will do! Wirewool and Kurust?
BTW am I missing an undertray there? All seems very exposed.
Nope, that's normal for the front mate (well it's the same as mine anyway s:) :) s:) ).
Great to see you getting stuck into this and it coming together. s:D :D s:D
Cheers. Will be back out there this aft. Might have to go and get a bit of wire and a bunch of junction blocks so that I can wire up my facelift rear lights with the fogs.
Also going to swap out the aerial I think.
Well..... That's annoying.
Now I've been able to look under the frunk plastic in daylight, it's apparent this car has had a front end shunt at some point.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/16/32530a408cb4b5c0e1558139111ed9fb.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/16/8a08e4df06815a436f463fc80e7dbaf8.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/16/6f3871d639a4389788d7046296e209bd.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/16/6e64b02adbf43fca65233fb375a09888.jpg)
Few slightly bent bits under there. Think the gods have decided that I'm not allowed a nice roadster! s:( :( s:(
not just the roadster Jay should have put car. Time to think about a bus pass and give up with cars until you can buy a brand new one
Quote from: "cabbydave"not just the roadster Jay should have put car. Time to think about a bus pass and give up with cars until you can buy a brand new one
Lol Cheers for that Dave! I'm not giving up on this little car. I've actually had a string of decent cars in between the MR2's. It's just these things that I am cursed with!
Got halfway through replacing the knackered aerial earlier. Will finish that tomorrow.
Hate how you have to unscrew the top nut off the aerial with a screwdriver, thus at least slightly damaging it cosmetically.
That crumpled front bar is really playing on my mind.......
Now the time to get it sorted s;) ;) s;)
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Now the time to get it sorted s;) ;) s;)
Definitely, but it's going to be a cut out and weld in a replacement job, so someone else will have to do that for me!
Does that panel provide much in the way of chassis strength?
Getting closer now. This isn't going to stop me. I will swap in the rad and aircon rad from the blue car once the car is back together and I can drive it out into more space.
No real strength in that panel Jay - its just a dangly part to hold the rad frame in position. The front crash beam is further forward and down into the bumper. Worth checking that to make sure its OK.
Nic replaced his rad frame along with the side arms that run from the struts. Parts readily available from MrT.
If its not fouling anything, perhaps best to paint over the exposed metal and put the plastics back on s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "spit"No real strength in that panel Jay - its just a dangly part to hold the rad frame in position. The front crash beam is further forward and down into the bumper. Worth checking that to make sure its OK.
Nic replaced his rad frame along with the side arms that run from the struts. Parts readily available from MrT.
If its not fouling anything, perhaps best to paint over the exposed metal and put the plastics back on s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Ah OK cool. Bumper is being replaced so it will be coming off when I've done other jobs.
Thanks for putting my mind at rest!
Lots of progress yesterday.
Got the old aerial out:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/96ba041e53271053b341bf3833f095ac.jpg)
New aerial in:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/ac74c6309f9282c95fdef1d854683c32.jpg)
Old plugs removed:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/e71ea4eeaa28565b97f89884ae10426a.jpg)
New ones before they went in:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/fe51957e3418e707f4d27d1e9b08ce58.jpg)
I gave the engine cover a slight clean:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/01c9ad54a93b8771ab1541797a5e89fa.jpg)
Then I started putting everything back together:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/90a2e1ed25bcb08dd539ec8f88e86e33.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/2ee77a12649f0afed8138edcac466d83.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/c8dcb13418e352896071aa21e0c6a66c.jpg)
Unfortunately there were a couple of issues. The facelift rear lights, one is perfect, the other has a load of sealant around it and the indicator bulb socket hasn't been modified well enough to accept the bulb holder. I've tried to sort it but wasn't getting anywhere so ended up doing what the previous person had done and used a tiny amount of sealant to stick the bulb holder in place.
Obviously this isn't ideal but it works. I also wired in my rear fogs and removed the ugly for lamp that was screwed into the rear bumper.
I also made a schoolboy error and left the car high up on stands. Too high to get it back off with the jack! This completely slipped my mind so I had to use a few finely balanced blocks of wood on top of the jack to achieve my desired result. I DO NOT recommend this!
But all is well that ends well. I plan to move it under its own steam tonight, just off the drive to let me get round it and inspect everything. Maybe put the seats back in etc. I still need to bleed the brakes and fit the new TTE springs. I will get new dust boots for the shocks before I do this.
I need to check the condition of the front calipers and I need the refurb kit for the rears. I also aim to swap the front bumper and check the crash bar. I will be swapping out the mangled rads!
Oh, and I also cleaned up the exhaust a fair bit yesterday, cleaned up the PAS pipes and applied Kurust to them.
This car won't see the road this summer now, that much is clear. But it is really coming on. I feel very positive.
BTW, what type of underseal should I use to replace some on the sills that has scraped off? It needs to be something I can paint over to restore the silver finish
Moved it around a bit tonight...
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/781afd05fac7ab4a36b0f70d1cda144c.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/eeebc598248d744e156d5836accfd101.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/18/af2bfa5a256ad1778b0cbf464bdf5077.jpg)
I noticed that the car seems to vibrate quite a lot when just idling. Is that normal for the roadster or is something wrong?
Brakes badly need bleeding but I knew that.
Handbrake doesn't hold the car if any gas is applied. Do I need to adjust the lever even more, as I'm sure that part is fine? Am I right in thinking that bleeding the brakes has zero effect on the handbrake due to it being operated solely by the cable? If so I will read up on how to adjust it. I'm sure I've seen a guide on here....
Oh my god it looks like a roadster! s:D :D s:D bet you forgot what it looks like, wood through the trees and all that.
Vibration is not normal, need to find the source of that. Did you Locate that rubber mount you posted pics of above? Maybe that's a mount you left off?
Bleed the brakes with handbrake disconnected, or at least fully slackened otherwise you will come across problems.
Bleeding the brakes probably will move the handbrake position because the pads probably aren't fully in their resting pisition. You can take up slack on the lever but that's a last resort fine tune, not a fix.
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Oh my god it looks like a roadster! s:D :D s:D bet you forgot what it looks like, wood through the trees and all that.
Vibration is not normal, need to find the source of that. Did you Locate that rubber mount you posted pics of above? Maybe that's a mount you left off?
Bleed the brakes with handbrake disconnected, or at least fully slackened otherwise you will come across problems.
Bleeding the brakes probably will move the handbrake position because the pads probably aren't fully in their resting pisition. You can take up slack on the lever but that's a last resort fine tune, not a fix.
Got a feeling that mount is to do with the battery tray/airbox area but need to check.
I'm worried there's an engine mount needing re-tightening but could be a real pain getting to the left hand one now. Will have to check them all though.
I've read up on the handbrake procedure now. Feel clued up on that s:) :) s:)
Totally forgot what the car looked like s:D :D s:D
Need to tidy up that rear light with the sealant. Massively unhappy with the way I've had to basically stick the indicator holder in place too, but not wanting to hack at it any more as once you've cut stuff away you can't put it back! Never having modified one of these lights before, I have nothing to go on. As it is, it works and nobody would know there was a bodge in place s;) ;) s;)
Brake bleeding, rad replacement and possibly TTE springs on the agenda for this coming Sunday and Bank Holiday Monday!
Can't wait to get back onto this on Sunday!
Didn't get anywhere near the radiator but managed to get the brakes bled and fit the TTE springs. I spent all day at it today and got very wet......
It's clear that the shocks haven't got much left in them, so I might have to bite the bullet and replace them. Not sure yet whether to wait until the car is MOT'd etc. in the near future and get other stuff done in the meantime.
On that note, has anyone used the KYB shocks that Camskill sell? Are they same as OEM?
Booked MOT and Aircon service for next Saturday, so the race is on this week!
Good luck! Double check for silly stuff like bulbs, warning lights, handbrake lever too high etc
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Booked MOT and Aircon service for next Saturday, so the race is on this week!
Best of luck
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Good luck! Double check for silly stuff like bulbs, warning lights, handbrake lever too high etc
Bloody thing has been a nightmare to get right! I've got a refurb kit on the way for the rear calipers but I'm only going to use the slider rubbers from it for now and keep the rest to one side. I've tidied up and inspected them and they're actually really good in general. I would like to paint them red though like the ones that came off the car, but I won't do that until I do change the piston seals and do the full refurb, unless I stop gap it and spray the visible parts.
Interior is going back in this week. New front tyres coming Monday, and used rears to tide me over coming too. I insured her today and will also get her taxed online. That means I'll have sent almost a grand in a couple of days on the two!
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Booked MOT and Aircon service for next Saturday, so the race is on this week!
Best of luck
Thank you s:) :) s:)
When the handbrake is on, does it matter if the two cables aren't pulled exactly level? I can't see how you can really do much about it when setting it to be honest...
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/31/d6790143099ed88a56006e49e0123889.jpg)
Thees no real adjustment there ,they have to be done from the caliper
trick is winding the pistons back out till the pads will just fit, and the tabs on the pads slot into the grooves on the piston ,
(without winding the piston back in)
Yeah I did all that and the handbrake works fine. Just looks odd to see it's pulling a bit harder on one side.
I wouldn't worry providing the handbrake seems even efficiency
All I know is it works lol.
Taken the rad and Aircon rad out of the blue car. Rad looks OK to use, aircon rad is screwed. Been hit on the bottom which has crushed the top row of fins, and the fins are all so brittle they literally just drop off if you touch them.
Hmm playing on my mind now. Feel like I'm going to end up messing about with the brakes again..... Get them identical hopefully. We'll see.
Jack the car up and set the handbrake so it just starts holding the wheel. Check If the hand brake is holding the each wheel the same amount. If so, nothing to worry about
Yeah that's quick enough to check s:) :) s:)
Although it is very difficult, I can still move the wheels by hand by grabbing the spokes up until 7 or 8 clicks at which point it's impossible.
Bit concerned that that's not quite good enough though, needing to apply the brake to 8 clicks?
Have you discounted the cable from there hangers/mounting before resetting it?
You should be able to slide 2 golden coloured clips out and pull the cables away to release the tension from the calliper end. Once reset pull the cables back into place and return the clips.
Sorry of this has already been suggested
Yeah Nathan, I disconnected them from the calipers but I do recall that I didn't wind the pistons all the way back. I thought they'd be fine without going all the way. Pretty sure not doing that has caused this issue.
correct, by not doing so, you haven't reset the self adjuster (as I understand it anyway!)
Yeah. I wound them some of the way, not not all.
Lesson learned on that one.
Well I've done it. I can still make the car move under throttle but it's very difficult and takes a few thousand revs. I'd say it's OK.
Luck not needed cos you've got skills
Quote from: "1979scotte"Luck not needed cos you've got skills
Well that's debatable but I certainly keep plugging away s:D :D s:D
I think it's sorted but we'll see what the tester says on Saturday.
Just bear in mind that my car failed it's MOT for handbrake lever too high (not enough spare travel). So for the MOT at least, make sure the lever is adjusted down enough (without making the handbrake bind on!)
Scott, that'll be all s;) ;) s;)
What, make it travel further or less? It takes a bit of effort to get to the 8th click currently.
And where can I buy it? Never bonded any bodykit stuff before, so not sure what to use?
Anybody able to help?
Tiger seal bout £10 a tube
eBay or your local car bits store
Can't see it in the Halfrauds I'm in just now. Balls.
Well nothing's ever simple but.... she passed! 12 months' MOT with one advisory for crusty rear discs s:) :) s:)
I had to wait until today for the call, as they didn't manage to get it done on Saturday.
Very pleased though. I've saved a roadster destined for scrap, thanks in no small part to you lot s;) ;) s;)
Was out working late on Friday night with it and again out in the rain all Saturday morning. I fitted my facelift front underbrace and my Rotas with the new front tyres and part worn rears (to run until new ones come back into stock) and I had the front bumper off and swapped out both radiators.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/71f997789e4ee378156b752eb41bb721.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/123108551bb27182f83c59e944e34715.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/6f6a3eb668750f68e68025b937aa6ef9.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/df720e02ae5bde516ddabe3c71afa482.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/3e510417f3a9743f7f5e354f88febcfe.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/08/40f19653523b6c3d07eb16f1f8f6d6b7.jpg)
My front and rear lips have both arrived and I'm due to get the PFL TRD fogs from Cabby Dave. I have a slight droop on the passenger side front bumper corner which is as a result of its prang and I can't fix it. I'll possibly need a professional to look at that.
There's a fair bit of work still to do but she's road legal now s:) :) s:)
Good work Jay, you've done well and only the one advisory, must be pleased.
Cars looking much nicer on the wheels too.
So what are your plans, are you using it now?
Well done, I hope you are very proud with what you have managed to do.
Cheers guys, I'm really pleased. I'm now sorting the interior and stereo out. I'll be using it sparingly in the coming weeks, right until the new shocks arrive.
I went home the long way from the MOT station s:D :D s:D
Just read all 12 pages (busy day at work) WELL DONE, there are many many people who would a) Not have started such a job & b) Given up half way through, you should be very proud of yourself.
As for the handbrake not being equal personally I'd ignore it there's nothing wrong with it being slightly out.
Alan...
Quote from: "bluesmoke"When the handbrake is on, does it matter if the two cables aren't pulled exactly level? I can't see how you can really do much about it when setting it to be honest...
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/31/d6790143099ed88a56006e49e0123889.jpg)
hi jay i had this problem the other week when fitting my new handbrake cables one cable is longer than the other checked with toyota and they said the same cant understand why myself as it pulls one side on before the other take it youve sorted yours now then tom
Quote from: "phaeton"Just read all 12 pages (busy day at work) WELL DONE, there are many many people who would a) Not have started such a job & b) Given up half way through, you should be very proud of yourself.
As for the handbrake not being equal personally I'd ignore it there's nothing wrong with it being slightly out.
Alan...
Cheers! Looking back it would probably have been cheaper to just buy a good one, but I wouldn't have the knowledge I now have s;) ;) s;)
Tom, it's better on mine since I fully reset both caliper pistons.
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Cheers! Looking back it would probably have been cheaper to just buy a good one, but I wouldn't have the knowledge I now have s;) ;) s;)
You can't guarantee you've got a good one unless they let you take it to bits before you buy s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
I should know my dealer bought one owner 06 had a few issues.
Well done you s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Well done for persevering. Now enjoy driving it before the snow comes s;) ;) s;)
Will do, if I could get the interior back in quickly!
I just bought a 2ZZ swap part! No idea why, that's way off.....
m http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.vi ... 72&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=231326286172&alt=web) m
Just after a quick bit of guidance here. I've read a thread on here that matches OE wiring colours to the corresponding ISO colours. That's great, but I have a disconnected green wire from the car and a disconnected orange wire on the plug (someone has wired the car loom into an ISO plug directly).
It otherwise mostly matches up but I'd like to know, should there be 5 or 6 wires feeding into the ISO on the power side? I have 5 plumbed in but there are 6 pins in total.
Sorted. I'm obviously a genius s:D :D s:D
Been having a play with getting the head unit and DAB aerial in and wired up, and I've run cables down the centre for the amp in the bin and replaced the console.
Not got very far this week but I've scaled back the time I'm spending on it now the MOT has been obtained. That was the biggie.
Bit of butchered cabling:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/11/0b75419dc09d7e8dac265e68f7d2964a.jpg)
Head unit going in:
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/11/6d1f83cd49745106d92bf22786cf0276.jpg)
do you need a DAB aerial adaptor? I have one if you do...
Cheers but no, I've got a DAB aerial that's already up on the screen s:) :) s:)
Haven't updated much recently due to being very busy!
My new shocks have finally arrived! I'm hoping to get them swapped over this week and an alignment at the weekend to follow.
The stereo and speakers are in and sound great but the 6.5" Subs I plan to put into the storage bin doors are not in yet.
I have had a couple of nice drives out now. The car doesn't look right yet with a slight gap between front bumper and wing which I may need a body shop to sort and the front and rear lips still to sort.
I absolutely cannot wait to give this car more power after Christmas. It's already great to drive and will be even better.
I'm going to change the roof soon. This one is a bit knackered and the ears strap has actually torn away from the rest of the roof on one side......
So the shocks are on!
Only took photos of the rears. Off for alignment this morning at my trusted geo place in Oldham.
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/27/099f351b2d283d8ffe6cb23aaafcd6a6.jpg)
(http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/09/27/3463c765560cb7d44f743350a67cf43c.jpg)
Wanted to change my front drop links then found out how much fun getting them off is. Managed to tighten the one I tried to remove back up but the Allen key hole is now very warped.
Looks like a tight squeeze for the grinder but that's what it's going to need.
Most cars have the allen key droplinks, very poor design if you ask me, often had to replace perfectly good links on other cars when it's been impossible to get them off/on again without the use of the angey grinder.
Alan...
Quote from: "bluesmoke"Wanted to change my front drop links then found out how much fun getting them off is. Managed to tighten the one I tried to remove back up but the Allen key hole is now very warped.
Looks like a tight squeeze for the grinder but that's what it's going to need.
You can get them off using mole grips
cut off the rubber boot ,
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3126_zps17e45d83.jpg)
then the grips will go on the shaft
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3127_zpsc251dd7b.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3128_zps5739167f.jpg)
Quote from: "trevsmr2"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Wanted to change my front drop links then found out how much fun getting them off is. Managed to tighten the one I tried to remove back up but the Allen key hole is now very warped.
Looks like a tight squeeze for the grinder but that's what it's going to need.
You can get them off using mole grips
cut off the rubber boot ,
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3126_zps17e45d83.jpg)
then the grips will go on the shaft
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3127_zpsc251dd7b.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF3128_zps5739167f.jpg)
Good info, thanks
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"Quote from: "trevsmr2"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Wanted to change my front drop links then found out how much fun getting them off is. Managed to tighten the one I tried to remove back up but the Allen key hole is now very warped.
Looks like a tight squeeze for the grinder but that's what it's going to need.
You can get them off using mole grips
Good info, thanks
safer than the grinder i think
Genius Trev, thanks for that!
Alignment done, car feels fantastic. Lots of topless action today s:D :D s:D
Great stuff, cracking little cars eh.
Worth all the stress??
Err..... Yeah it is! s:) :) s:)
It's a bit too slow for me, but it still makes me grin. I drove home via the top of the Peak District today s:) :) s:)
Problem is, having the Impreza as well means I miss the power in the two, but I am definitely enjoying making the engine work when I take her out.
Wow... haven't updated this for a while!
I've not been on here since late September as I've been too bloody busy and had to stay out of the way for a while to stop me seeing stuff and buying more things for the car!
Been going through an extremely stressful house purchase. Honestly, I've never known anything like it. Then I started spending money on the Subaru, which is a slippery slope! I got the car all aligned and it drives fantastic. I'm still enjoying using it but for the 2nd gear crunch. Unfortunately though, I am at a bit of a crossroads with it. I am very tempted to sell up to create a bit of space. I'm due to move anytime now after we complete this Friday on the house and the drive is very small. It wouldn't be the best place to try and carry out a 2zz swap I don't think. Plus the corner where the front bumper sits slightly imperfectly really still bothers me and I don't know if I have got the motivation to fix it s:( :( s:(
I've been looking at potential replacements including SMG E46 M3's and Boxsters etc. as well as facelift roadsters as a cheap option that I could run as is for the time being without the slight issues that bother me on mine. It's more than likely between the Porsche and the BMW now though.....
Apologies to anyone that has tried to contact me in the time I've been away. I'm back now so fire away if you need me.
Try a turbo'd 2 it may be just what your looking for.
Certainly less costly than an M3 or a Porker.
Scotte hes had a turbo 2 that ended in a ditch a few years ago.
Quote from: "cabbydave"Scotte hes had a turbo 2 that ended in a ditch a few years ago.
Thanks for that Dave! That was a MK2 on budget tyres because I was going to change the wheels. I've owned 3 turbos, one N/A and my MK3! s:D :D s:D
MK3 turbo is a bit different.
Quote from: "1979scotte"MK3 turbo is a bit different.
Would bloody hope so! s:D :D s:D
Scott is right, the weight difference really does make it different, agile yet has the want to pull your face off if you put your foot down. Also you still get good mpg. Win win.
Quote from: "rbuckingham"Scott is right, the weight difference really does make it different, agile yet has the want to pull your face off if you put your foot down. Also you still get good mpg. Win win.
Sounds good to me. I think it may well be the route I go. A cheap facelift, with good history and possibly the Whifbitz turbo kit. I've spoken with them recently to ask how many kits they have sold etc. and they reckon there are 15 cars running these at the moment without issue.
I reckon 230 - 240bhp would make for a phenomenal car.
Mine and Rich's cars are there or there abouts although his has more to come if he ever gets it mapped.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Mine and Rich's cars are there or there abouts although his has more to come if he ever gets it mapped.
Have you ever been able to compare it side by side with a 2ZZ?
No it's something i have been keen to do however i KNOW that a turbo is the right option for me. I love torque and a high reving na isn't going to deliver that.
Money no object i would go 2gr or K20 swap but thats never going to happen.
I too love the effortless power of a turbo. A ready converted car at a cheap price is a temptation though.
My only worry really is that buying a circa 100k mile facelift car and turboing it might not go too well. Hopefully I am just being overly worried and there's no reason to be on a looked after engine?
Turbo 2zz s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "vinp182"Turbo 2zz s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
But if money no object a twinturbo 2gr would win.
Back on subject regardless of mods there is no point to use a tried warn engine. A well service with good oil will always be less warn
There are a few 2zz for sale at the moment for fair money can always turbo if the power proves inadequate.
I dunno, the problem with that is that I've read that with the compression being different, the 2ZZ doesn't respond as well and it doesn't really make any more power than a turbo 1ZZ?
What do you guys think?
They are two very different drives.
I think you need to drive one and / or the other.
As you know personally I am going for 2zz, because it suits track days and ragging quite hard.
That said, if my car was a road only car with the odd track day, I would probably opt for turbo 1zz
It'll be more trackdays and occasional road blasting. Use my Impreza as the daily.
I dunno, I'm torn. I'm not sure a stock 2ZZ would give me what I needed. Could buy one of the 2ZZ cars, track it then see how I feel I guess. If I could get 300bhp on a stock 2ZZ turbo, that might be the best of all worlds? s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "bluesmoke"It'll be more trackdays and occasional road blasting. Use my Impreza as the daily.
I dunno, I'm torn. I'm not sure a stock 2ZZ would give me what I needed. Could buy one of the 2ZZ cars, track it then see how I feel I guess. If I could get 300bhp on a stock 2ZZ turbo, that might be the best of all worlds? s:D :D s:D
To be honest you'd have more bang for buck by making your current car more track focused, lose some weight (the car not you s:) :) s:) ) some suspension and decent tyres.
These things are quick around a track even with the 1zz, you just need to add some lightness, some grip and some decent skills s:) :) s:)
Yeah I know, just too many little niggles with it that are going to take time and effort away from other things I'd rather do. It's a facelift or a 6 speed 2ZZ in my future!
Quote from: "Meeerrrk"As you know personally I am going for 2zz, because it suits track days and ragging quite hard.
That said, if my car was a road only car with the odd track day, I would probably opt for turbo 1zz
Probably the best bit of 2ZZ/1ZZ related advice I've seen on this forum. s:bowdown: :bowdown: s:bowdown:
Quote from: "trevsmr2"Quote from: "bluesmoke"Having read this, I think probably not:
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40596&p=479513 (http://mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=40596&p=479513) l
But could you take the face from a UK clock? Reason I ask, is I'd quite like the UK style if I ever take the car into Europe.
Not gonna happen anytime soon, but I'm VERY bored at work today s:D :D s:D
Yes ,just swap over the face of the clocks, leave everything else as is ,including the original mileage readout
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2524.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2527.jpg)
(http://i115.photobucket.com/albums/n281/blz-8027/mk3%20mr2/DSCF2526.jpg)
Just in case anyone searching for this needs an answer (like me)...This doesn't work. I just did the following:
Removed Jap import clocks,
Removed little black box speedo converter,
Swapped faces of UK clocks with Jap clocks (as detailed above) leaving the Jap circuit board along with ODO, therefore retaining the correct mileage,
New clocks with UK faces in the car.
The result is the speed reading is way off as the markings are in the wrong place for the circuit board.
Is that even with the needles back in the right place?
I only took the temp gauge off mine, thinking I could just pop it off and pop it back on again and but it was no where near as simple as that.
I had to wait until the car was up to temp and pop it back on in the middle.
Im guessing the rev needle and speed would have to be sorted by putting the needles back with a computer connected to the on board computer read outs
The needles don't need to come off, they come off with the faces all in one part. Just unscrew it from the back