Hi everyone! First post on here so I'll let you know where I'm at
03 silver mr2
Cobra quad exhauste system
Bc racing coilovers
Uprated induction kit (bought with the car apparently lotus?)
Im going for fast road possibly some track use in the future and I was wondering what people would advise for brake upgrades? Currently all standard with the standard wheels, although I want to upgrade to 16's all round, any advice would be great thanks!
OEM discs and Yellowstuff pass work well for me, and others on here.
Yep, and also I found braided hoses added a nice firm feel to the pedal
+1 for yellow stuff and plain discs, mine is great on the brakes without braided hoses, but they can't hurt either! With a standard engine you really don't need more brakes, you can have it stood on its nose right on the edge of grip without hitting the abs for lap after lap... The brakes are one of the best things on these cars.
I always used standard discs and pads on track with no issues and had great stopping power. I did have braided hoses however.
I'd be surprised if 16 all round was an upgrade.
With stock power output and road tyres, the Toyota pads and discs should be fine. They have good feel and are strong enough for road and track. Going with significantly more power and / or track tyres, you may want to upgrade. EBC yellowstuff pads seem good. Carbotech have better feel and progression and last longer, but cost a lot more. Beyond,that, you can get big brake kits for the front end. PB Brakes are worth a look.
Also worth noting, it feels like the standard MR2 brakes are a very strong point of the car. They feel more capable than my last car (Clio 172) which had massively competent standard brakes too, in fact I remember a statistic about it being able to outbrake a Ferrari 360.
I took the Clio on track with standard pads/discs and it was fine. After 5 or so laps they would start to fade and I'd let them cool down before continuing- I'd say I'm an above average driver but by no means an expert- so if you don't *know* that your brakes need upgrading then I'd leave them. Or just get more expensive pads (not EBC though) and be done with it. Not forgetting that a standard MR2 is much slower than a Clio 172 in a straight line so you have less speed to scrub off in the first place I don't think you'd have a problem. I'm taking my standard MR2 to Brands next month and don't anticipate any issues on standard setup.
Quote from: "jeffsimply"(not EBC though)
oooo going against the grain s:) :) s:)
Is this still about the crumbling issue they had yonks ago on the reds, and everybody fled to the Ferodo's for a year or so, before all coming back to EBC yellow?
Quote from: "jeffsimply"Also worth noting, it feels like the standard MR2 brakes are a very strong point of the car. They feel more capable than my last car (Clio 172) which had massively competent standard brakes too, in fact I remember a statistic about it being able to outbrake a Ferrari 360.
I took the Clio on track with standard pads/discs and it was fine. After 5 or so laps they would start to fade and I'd let them cool down before continuing- I'd say I'm an above average driver but by no means an expert- so if you don't *know* that your brakes need upgrading then I'd leave them. Or just get more expensive pads (not EBC though) and be done with it. Not forgetting that a standard MR2 is much slower than a Clio 172 in a straight line so you have less speed to scrub off in the first place I don't think you'd have a problem. I'm taking my standard MR2 to Brands next month and don't anticipate any issues on standard setup.
Why not Ebc? They are proven to be one of the best for these cars
Having sold a lot of yellow stuff pads for the Roadster and T-Sport corollas I haven't had any issues or comebacks from customers?
I also sell a big brake kit for the roadster?
I have used the same pads and discs ebc yellow and ebc turbo groove on the mr2 for 6 track days and two sprint race events and about to do cadwell on them for the final sprint of the year and these brakes have never let me down, have lots of life left and I've been hard on them.
I would buy them again in a heart beat
I've got new oem discs and pads on the '2 and they work just fine with 212bhp.
Just saying what I'd do. Yes EBC might be a lot better these days, but I'd still pick one of the other brands myself (Ferodo/PerformanceFriction/Pagid)- although that depends on what pads are available for MR2s, I know you can get DS2500 and for a car that's not going to be spending more than 30 minutes straight on a track that's fine for me. Not saying anyone has to do the same though.
Quote from: "jeffsimply"....... I'm taking my standard MR2 to Brands next month and don't anticipate any issues on standard setup.
9th Nov? s:D :D s:D
Quote from: "HFB"Quote from: "jeffsimply"....... I'm taking my standard MR2 to Brands next month and don't anticipate any issues on standard setup.
9th Nov? s:D :D s:D
Yes! (Subject to no catastrophes happening at work)
I can confirm that the EBC yellow can handle a 200hp mr2 on a summer track day s:wink: :wink: s:wink: (standard discs and hoses)
Quote from: "jeffsimply"Quote from: "HFB"Quote from: "jeffsimply"....... I'm taking my standard MR2 to Brands next month and don't anticipate any issues on standard setup.
9th Nov? s:D :D s:D
Yes! (Subject to no catastrophes happening at work)
Well if you are going, PM myself or Meerk as we're both going to be there and are planning to meet up/share garage, so be cool to have as many MR2's in the same space to share advice (I currently have none to give s:( :( s:( )/tools/choccy biccies etc! s:D :D s:D
HFB
Quote from: "Glubux"I can confirm that the EBC yellow can handle a 200hp mr2 on a summer track day s:wink: :wink: s:wink: (standard discs and hoses)
I can confirm that EBC yellow can handle a 220hp mr2 on a summer track day s:) :) s:) EBC discs and standard hoses s:) :) s:)
never heard any problems at all with EBC pads nowadays on a 2.
But for the OP, stick with your stock discs, no need to upgrade them, use stock pads until they are all used up, I found the wore quite quickly but just upgrade them once they have gone. First thing I would do before I track day is better brake fluid. And then maybe braided hoses is you got plenty of meat on your pads.
Quote from: "Jrichards20"Quote from: "Glubux"I can confirm that the EBC yellow can handle a 200hp mr2 on a summer track day s:wink: :wink: s:wink: (standard discs and hoses)
I can confirm that EBC yellow can handle a 220hp mr2 on a summer track day s:) :) s:) EBC discs and standard hoses s:) :) s:)
never heard any problems at all with EBC pads nowadays on a 2.
But for the OP, stick with your stock discs, no need to upgrade them, use stock pads until they are all used up, I found the wore quite quickly but just upgrade them once they have gone. First thing I would do before I track day is better brake fluid. And then maybe braided hoses is you got plenty of meat on your pads.
Glad you gave that as best advice for track days. s:) :) s:)
I've got mine booked in for new front disks and pads, braided hoses all round and Dot 5 brake fluid.
Suspension and rear brakes is next year.
Also got a Mattbrace on order, but don't think I'll be receiving that in time for 9th Nov.
HFB
I can confirm the standard Toyota discs and pads are fine for 220hp roadster on summer track days s8) 8) s8) (with braided hoses and .5 fluid)
as I've been corrected for this before for not being clearn; I feel I need to correct the above as well and state that it's DOT 5.1 that we need for our cars. DOT 5 will not make for pretty results of your brake lines
Hi guys, I see you are all recommending EBC's yellow pads, which from my investigation are particularly designed for track use? Does no one use their green stuff pads, which according to their blurb, are more suited to our cars standard power output?
I've used green stuff before, in fact got some new fronts somewhere under the stairs! Saw them a couple of days ago s:) :) s:) Obviously slight differences but still found green stuff very good!
Here is a really good upgrade, be it for road or track, heavy or light use. New brake fluid every year, or every 2 years at the most will keep your system working well and prevent corrosion internally. Dont worry bout the Dot 4 rating, it well exceeds Dot 5.1, its not much dearer than 5.1 and its the cheapest upgrade you can get. Include a 1 man bleeder into the price so you can swap the fluid yourself and its still a cheap upgrade.
m http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-r ... fluid.aspx (http://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-894-motul-rbf-600-factory-line-racing-brake-fluid.aspx) m
That's interesting. I've obviously heard of and use synthetic engine oil, but I don't recall seeing synthetic brake fluid. I may well try that (in conjunction with some braided hoses) as I must confess, out of all the the reasons I'm really happy with my 2, the brakes are the one area I feel let the car down. When I bought it I felt I needed to press much harder than on other NON sports cars I've owned, and they feel spongy. I immediately got the pads/discs checked, and the fluid changed (as I couldn't be sure when the last owner had had it renewed), and was looking forward to seeing a big difference when I drove the car home. I'm still unimpressed! It's not that I get the feeling that they won't stop me, just that other family hatches that I've owned, would stop me much more ferociously if required. Looks like I've got something to upgrade next year.
That's weird because honestly, the brakes on these cars are immense. Other than pads you don't even need to upgrade them for track work.
Pedal feel is mostly about getting them properly bled. I also have braided hoses and there isn't actually much movement in the brake pedal, it's more a case of press harder = stop faster.
But yeah, re bleed, check all calipers are in good condition, and go from there.
what joe said.
Feels like it will endo like a bike if I wanted it to.
Stops very well indeed.
Seems strange to me too, my son who owns the car with me, currently drives an old but well looked after Fiat Panda, the brakes on that knock spots of the 2. If you press hard in the Fiat you end up through the windscreen. I've not been able to get that kind of performance from the 2 no matter how hard I press. According to Toyota who carried out the brake fluid change, everything else was looking in good condition. I'd really like to drive someone else's to compare.
Could it just be that you are used to brakes that are more heavily servo assisted?
Falling that, it could just be on poor quality pads?
Meet you half way tomorrow you can try mine.
They make a bit of a racket due to grooved/drilled disks on the front but stop fine.
Possibly Chris, but that wouldn't explain why other drivers here, feel the brakes on their cars are excellent. I'd be surprised if many do not frequently drive other vehicles for comparison? I don't know for sure what pads are on it, but as it has a FTSH I'm guessing they're OEM?
Thanks for the offer Scotte, can't do tomorrow, but if you're serious, maybe in the new year. I'd like to meet up and chat with some other owners.
If im not working or doing the wifes bidding then im available.
You don't get the sensitive, short pedal of a modern car - this doesn't mean those brakes are "better" - just that they're over servo'd!! The '2 has a longer pedal travel, but way more feel. And if you stomp on them they really do stop you.
My wife always used to complain that my '2 brakes were "rubbish". Her car was a bog standard Golf mk6 PoohMotion. The brakes were very firm and sensitive compared to the '2 - but that's just because they were heavily assisted (i.e. "fake"). The MR2 has far more braking "feel" compared to modern cars.
I'm not saying you couldn't improve yours with some decent pads and a full and effective bleed (to ensure there is no trapped air in any callipers or the master cylinder), but they will never feel like the brakes of an average modern hatchback. This is a good thing!
Skint Brit
Top offer from Scott there. If it was not for the much greater distance I would offer the same. I know it would follow but would good for him to try yours as well.
Have you actually tried an emergency type stop? Fully stamping on them - max pressure - the lot?
I had to peel my nose from the windscreen.
If you are not getting that, something is a miss.
Still say, you don't need to upgrade. Just see that the stock stuff is working correctly.
Can see the fluid was changed at a main dealers, sadly this is no guarantee it was done correctly.
Quote from: "mr-ed_smt"You don't get the sensitive, short pedal of a modern car - this doesn't mean those brakes are "better" - just that they're over servo'd!! The '2 has a longer pedal travel, but way more feel. And if you stomp on them they really do stop you.
My wife always used to complain that my '2 brakes were "rubbish". Her car was a bog standard Golf mk6 PoohMotion. The brakes were very firm and sensitive compared to the '2 - but that's just because they were heavily assisted (i.e. "fake"). The MR2 has far more braking "feel" compared to modern cars.
I'm not saying you couldn't improve yours with some decent pads and a full and effective bleed (to ensure there is no trapped air in any callipers or the master cylinder), but they will never feel like the brakes of an average modern hatchback. This is a good thing!
I feel like this could be the problem.
My girlfriend also doesn't like my brakes. A tiny dab on her Mini Cooper and it's almost at 100% braking. But I can bet any money, the mr2 will stop in a much shorter distance. Same thing I had when I had the Elise, there is no servo at all and no abs. So when I first tried to brake, you really had to try hard. But when you slammed on the brakes and kept it from locking up, it would pull the skin from your face off.
Thanks guys for all your responses and offers of help, I really appreciate them. No I haven't tried an emergency type stop yet, so next time I'm out in it, I'll find a quiet stretch of road and give it a go. On driving it home after buying it, I did check that the calipers were biting evenly, by carrying out the customary 'hands just off the wheel and brake hard'' test, to see if it veered off to one side or the other. Seemed to pull up straight and true. Perhaps you are right, maybe it's the lack of assistance that I'm used to in other cars (not newer though, as the cars in question are actually 05/06 plates, so older than the two!) that is making me FEEL something is amiss? That's why I'm interested to meet up with some members, and compare vehicles, at least that way I'd have something to compare it to. Perhaps next year? Thanks once again.
Might be worth checking there is good vacuum at the servo, the line travels a long way from the engine, a small crack could be reducing the full vacuum effect the servo should be getting.
Mild thread resurrection.
I keep pinching myself as I can barely believe what I experienced today.
Thought I would do a simple brake test now got the new tyres on.
The result was nothing short of astonishing.
Quite road, straight, flat and level. 30mph.
Applied brakes and just stopped dead. There was no perceptible de-acceleration. just went from 30 to stop. Just sat there puzzled, what the chuff just happened?
So repeated it.
Back up to 30mph
Choose a road sign post to act as a marker.
Applied the brakes when I felt I was level with the sign.
Then looked back to the sign. Actually I did not look back at all, simply across at it.
I had stopped in the distance between the front of the car and the side vent. somewhere between 2 and 3m. Astonishing!
I keep thinking that cannot be right and need to go and repeat it and video it.
Jase the gobsmacked
Quote from: "Ardent"Mild thread resurrection.
I keep pinching myself as I can barely believe what I experienced today.
Thought I would do a simple brake test now got the new tyres on.
The result was nothing short of astonishing.
Quite road, straight, flat and level. 30mph.
Applied brakes and just stopped dead. There was no perceptible de-acceleration. just went from 30 to stop. Just sat there puzzled, what the chuff just happened?
So repeated it.
Back up to 30mph
Choose a road sign post to act as a marker.
Applied the brakes when I felt I was level with the sign.
Then looked back to the sign. Actually I did not look back at all, simply across at it.
I had stopped in the distance between the front of the car and the side vent. somewhere between 2 and 3m. Astonishing!
I keep thinking that cannot be right and need to go and repeat it and video it.
Jase the gobsmacked
No busies behind I hope s:o :o s:o
That sounds amazing. What tyres? Also please send a copy of your video to the authors of the Highway Code, perhaps we can convince them to update the current stopping distances, that are probably based on a 1972 Morris Marina! No reason I can think of why we shouldn't have 100mph limits on U.K. motorways, but that's probably a discussion for another thread?
SB
Yoko AD08r
[youtube:1yrfstjx]qkIowmqOFRg[/youtube:1yrfstjx]
Found that informative.
Would have liked if they had done the above and a set of tyres.
For ref to my above post.
I am running Stock grade pagid discs and pads.
Fresh, but stock grade fluid.
Hel lines
I need to recreate the set up from sat and record it.
I get abs issues with my pads, which is why I'm quite desperate to switch pads to something a bit more fast-road.
Especially since putting on the BCs.
The mtec pads and discs I've got are absolutely great, but as far as modulation goes... Nah ah.
It's all or nothing.
Strangely they don't do much in the way of fading though. But that's compared to the cheapass 128 quid Blueprint set I had from Camskill.
To add to the above video, I was disappointed that they didn't cover fluid more.
I regret putting ATE 200 in. It transformed the braking.. For all of a couple of weeks.
A good 5.1 is going in next time.
I think we would all agree with the above.
Tyres pads and fluid are the best value upgrades.
I will be going back to stock disks on my next change slotted/drilled make too much noise and as the video suggests add nothing unless you are on track.
I have yellow stuff and 5.1 fluid with black diamond disks.
Toyo t1r soon to be relegated to spares by AD08R.
Quote from: "Ardent"Found that informative.
I need to recreate the set up from sat and record it.
I'd love to see this, sounds hilarious!
Weather permitting, I plan to.
Ok
First things first.
My view from the scock cock scock pit and perception of level with the post is a bit off.
Sorry about the wind roar. Some what blowy today. May well set this up again on a nicer day. Poor Delia was left in charge of pushing the button and being blown about something rotten.
However, these things aside. I am still entering the frame at 30mph.
So for reference.
MR2 roadster
Tein s springs fresh stock KYB shocks
Pagid Discs and pads
Hel Lines
Stock 4 fluid
Yoko ad08r tyres
30 to 0
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Looks about right. Gotta love it