Anybody know which version of the TD04 turbo would suit a stock MR2? Not looking for silly boost just want quick spool up with nice linear delivery up to the rev limit.
I already have a T25 turbo manifold and the TD04s are common, pretty robust plus I've rebuilt them in the past.
I like the look of the Kinugawa Universal Turbocharger TD04L-19T 6cm T25 Flange kit which comes with all the pipes etc, but I cant decide on the 16T or 19T and if a billet wheel is worth the extra £.
Comments or thoughts would be greatly received.
Mark
Who is it on here. Who is running a Subaru td04? Cabbydave?
Not me The deal fell through
Loadsawine? Rbuckingham?
Now I'm just rattling off names... Haha
if you want good spool why consider the larger exhaust housing? I've not run td04's that said, I had a td05hr 16g on a 2.0l engine and that spooled so nice but that was because of twin scroll... to be fair these engines don't really make any power low down, so boost or not its not gonna pull until higher rpm, so I wouldn't obsess over spool personally.. opinions may vary s;) ;) s;)
Not me, think it's blubux or something
Not me, probably one of the few I haven't run! Never say never though. s;) ;) s;) I reckon there must be sensible cheap turbos we could use though. I see some Saabs and scoobys used a td04. Could be interesting.
"if you want good spool why consider the larger exhaust housing" Only because i'd read on Saab and Subaru forums that the 5cm housing caused the turbo to run hot with high exhaust temps so recommended 6cm. Thanks for the input.
Ah. That answers the question... Saab was the hint. I believe Scotte's is a td04 the no?
Quote from: "shnazzle"Ah. That answers the question... Saab was the hint. I believe Scotte's is a td04 the no?
Isva Saab turbo but is actually a gt25
I give up
Quote from: "shnazzle"I give up
But you were so close
l viewtopic.php?f=88&t=57516 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=88&t=57516) l
Argh. Thanks.
well there's something that might help you Mark A s:) :) s:) After much ado
if you have a t25 manifold already then go for a t28 turbo from a nissan s14 or s15 (the s15 is ball bearing so harder to find and more expensive)
I tried a TD 035 from a Forester first but it was too small, the boost was decreasing a bit past 6000 RPM
Now I'm running a Subaru Impreza 2000 TD 04 at 7 PSI and I think it is great, it spools nearly as fast as the TD035, it start building boost at 1100 RPM, and hit full boost at 2200 RPM till the red line, almost no lag.
Do you know which TD04? Is it a TD04L 13T? I'm thinking of going with a TD04L-16T slightly larger compression wheel 43.5/56mm vs (13T) 40/56mm
Quote from: "Mark A"Do you know which TD04? Is it a TD04L 13T? I'm thinking of going with a TD04L-16T slightly larger compression wheel 43.5/56mm vs (13T) 40/56mm
Sorry I don't know for sure, but I think it is hte 13T
The Impreza td04 is a good choice for a low power setup but it won't be t25 flanged
Yep I appreciate that but TD04s can be bought new in T25 format or converted using one of these m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-FORD-FO ... Swu4BVsZeH (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MAZDA-FORD-FOCUS-DURATEC-T25-Subaru-TD04-TD05-turbo-manifold-flange-adapter-/231631479268?hash=item35ee4fe1e4:g:BdgAAOSwu4BVsZeH) m
Mines got a td04 but it's got a larger exhaust housing with a t25 flange. Spools up really quick, but I think it's on its limit now.
Is it T13 or other
My engines built around the whifbitz basic turbo kit, have a look at their website because to be honest I've no idea s:D :D s:D
So the Turbo is ordered, went for a TD04 16T. What size chargecooler do people use? 6, 8 or 10 inches?
I got a pwr 4x6 spare
Did you go for a Kinugawa, Mark? I've got my eye on one - what made you go for a 16T over a 13T, or going up to a 19T?
Hi Richard is the PWR for sale? Do you have any pictures?
I went with Kinugawa 16T so i have a little flexability and if its too laggy then i'll fit a billet wheel. I looked at the Mamba billet 16T but too much money for my first attempt. The crazy thing is Ihave two really good turbos sitting in the garage but just too large for the MR2.
Next big items I need to find are a water pump, been looking at Febi/bosch auxillary pumps and a front mounted rad,I can find them in Aus but not in the UK for sensible money.
Quote from: "Mark A"Next big items I need to find are a water pump, been looking at Febi/bosch auxillary pumps and a front mounted rad,I can find them in Aus but not in the UK for sensible money.
I use a Brushless VW pump and a Fiat Cinquencento radiator, about 30£ each.
(http://nsa37.casimages.com/img/2016/02/03/160203071027949030.jpg)
Perfect rad in stock at Euro car parts for £34, just need to track the pump down
Quote from: "Mark A"Perfect rad in stock at Euro car parts for £34, just need to track the pump down
Not the first time ive heard that rad being used.
Think rich promoted it to me for when i go for a charge cooler.
New Cinquencento radiator ordered £19 & VW pump with connector as above for £20.
Has anybody else mounted the pump up front? Wondering what would happen if it was really cold, succeptable to ice? I assume most people run with anti freeze/ inhiditor
Just fill with long life coolant that would work wouldnt it same as it does for a normal rad.
Links for those parts mate?
Aution site numbers
Pump 191713564363 this is second hand but off 2014 car
Radiator 191777015784 brand new, used them for MR2 and good quality
Thanks
Both arrived today on my way to Argos to collect, I'll post some pictures later
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0513_zpsyujy3ddu.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0513_zpsyujy3ddu.jpg.html)
SEAT aux pump
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0514_zpsa2af9ks7.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0514_zpsa2af9ks7.jpg.html)
Fiat radiator
Anybody know what cheap expansion tank I could use? Need it to have 2x 20mm outlets, Renault 5GTT or Clio 16V look possible but might be too large
Auction site number 161174016222
Turbo has landed, final small parts ordered and hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will install and add a bit of boost to my life.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg.html)
Lovely! What's the Kinugawa turbo like? I've heard really mixed reviews.
Quality looks ok, can't fault it for the money. If I was racing or competing in the MR2 then I'd have used a better know brand. But for this application it's not stressed and should be OK. It only cost £175 with the fitting kit and £30 tax and import duty.
I'll update once I've had a proper look and mock up.
Blimey! That is cheap - I thought they were about £330?
And I've got another voucher for 10% off my next Kinugawa purchase!
Quote from: "Mark A"Quality looks ok, can't fault it for the money. If I was racing or competing in the MR2 then I'd have used a better know brand. But for this application it's not stressed and should be OK. It only cost £175 with the fitting kit and £30 tax and import duty.
I'll update once I've had a proper look and mock up.
TD04 16T I should learn to read back doh.
Quote from: "Mark A"Turbo has landed, final small parts ordered and hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will install and add a bit of boost to my life.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg.html)
Would it be possible to spin the turbo round so that the wastegate is on the right hand side? Be interesting to know if you can rotate the compressor around (so the outlet points out not in) - presume you'd need to also rotate the actuator bracket?
Quote from: "mr-ed_smt"Quote from: "Mark A"Turbo has landed, final small parts ordered and hopefully in the next couple of weeks I will install and add a bit of boost to my life.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-02/IMAG0526_zpsbvgbwaiy.jpg.html)
Would it be possible to spin the turbo round so that the wastegate is on the right hand side? Be interesting to know if you can rotate the compressor around (so the outlet points out not in) - presume you'd need to also rotate the actuator bracket?
I think it should be mounted on the manifold the other way around so the waste gate is on the O/S of the car. You can normally rotate the compressor housings, it looks like it needs to go clockwise 45deg once it's on the exhaust the other way.
Where did you get this from? I keep looking at the whifbitz kit but I think that's a lot of lolly for what you get.
Quote from: "Mr X"I think it should be mounted on the manifold the other way around so the waste gate is on the O/S of the car. You can normally rotate the compressor housings, it looks like it needs to go clockwise 45deg once it's on the exhaust the other way.
Where did you get this from? I keep looking at the whifbitz kit but I think that's a lot of lolly for what you get.
Yes, I agree - the wastegate on the offside. But unless you can rotate the compressor housing, the outlet would point in towards the block.From the look of these turbos (Kinugawa TD04s) the limiting factor to whether you can rotate them appears to be how you refit the wastegate actuator.
Quote from: "mr-ed_smt"Yes, I agree - the wastegate on the offside. But unless you can rotate the compressor housing, the outlet would point in towards the block.From the look of these turbos (Kinugawa TD04s) the limiting factor to whether you can rotate them appears to be how you refit the wastegate actuator.
I did a quick google, rather than bolts around the edge there's a big clip holding the housing on and a locator pin so the housing won't rotate without taking a grinder to it and chopping off the pin!
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forced-induction-7/how-rotate-compressor-td04-4771/
I plan to test mounting the turbo with the cold side closest to the current air filter (nearside), so rotated by 180 degrees, I need to check the clearance between the block and the turbo first, but I'll need to remove the current exhaust manifold.
When I've taken TD04 apart you can pull the pin out with a pair of pliers once the the massive cir-clip is removed. With this universal Turbo kit you can rotate the compressor housing and then line up the waste-gate actuator mount with the pre-drilled holes
You can develop a DIY kit for much less than £1k, I've taken my time and been collecting parts, some second hand to keep the price down. I've still a small number of outstanding items I need before starting to fit this.
I watched an interesting YouTube video where two guys turbo'd a MX5 using a Forester Turbo on a small budget.
What engine management are you planning yo use? Have you got it yet?
Handy that turbo comes with all the lines and actuator. I might get one too. It's a T25 so spool up will be a lot quicker than a T28.
I have a Greddy Emanage I plan to use, I could also use a Syvecs from the Impreza but I'd need a loom etc and the Greddy in PnP.
All the lines etc was a big bonus, and a saving in the long run.
More silicone pipes, K&N air filter (but looks too small) and the sump return pipe/boss arrived today. Remaining big item is the injectors, missed some on eBay today but hopefully I've spotted another set. I will also check the dimensions of Subaru pink injectors because they look a similar size
Can I ask where you got the manifold from (did you import it from MRW or is there a cheaper supplier? Does it have o2 sensor bungs at all?
I bought it off Mattperformance but originally its a Turbokits manifold. It has no O2 bungs, I'm planning create two bungs/ports in the down pipe.
Can anybody tell me where the oil take off is for the turbo, is it on the block?
You'll need to put a sandwich plate between the filter and block.
Tte and Sp turbo kits drill the sump i believe but a sandwich plate is probably the easier option.
Allows installation of oil temp gauge too.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Tte and Sp turbo kits drill the sump i believe but a sandwich plate is probably the easier option.
Allows installation of oil temp gauge too.
U have to drill the sump for the return. The sandwich plate will be the oil feed.
DOH! Perhaps i was having a blonde moment.
I shall go and stand in the corner.
Quote from: "Mark A"Can anybody tell me where the oil take off is for the turbo, is it on the block?
or a t-piece at the pressure sender take off
Quick update, rotated the turbo to the cool side is near the air filter
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0542_zpsfoccvgah.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0542_zpsfoccvgah.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0541_zpsmnjnl4ny.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0541_zpsmnjnl4ny.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0543_zpsbfugy5hu.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0543_zpsbfugy5hu.jpg.html)
Looking good! How easy was it to clock the turbo and refit the actuator?
Is the turbo flange on that manifold "straight" or at an angle?
Yes the t25 mount is rotated slightly so the hot side is further away from the block. I need to check the clearance to the block and compressor housing.
Easy to clock once I'd bought some decent circlip pliers which have a rotating handle to open and close the pliers, only £20. Injectors, oil sandwich plate and exhaust tubing needs ordering tomorrow.
Slightly depressing day, started the turbo install today but slow progress.
Old manifold came off easy enough, ordered a new exhaust gasket but Toyota failed to deliver, so should be in tomorrow.
Test fitted the turbo and manifold but the clearance to the block is too tight so I've had to RE-clock it back to original orientation. During this procedure I seem to have damaged the compressor o ring, while cleaning it it snapped! I had a spare but taken from 100k turbo, so I'll need order another but hopefully I can continue the install. Tomorrow will hopefully be easier weather permitting.
Exhaust parts should arrive tomorrow.
Sorry to hear about the bad luck!
So you've had to turn it back around so the intake to the compressor housing is on the same side as the front of the engine (chain side)? That's a shame if that's the case it's going to make routing the pipework a PITA!
I take it that the cast iron manifold's shape wasn't quite designed for this turbo/orientation in mind?
Quote from: "Mr X"Sorry to hear about the bad luck!
So you've had to turn it back around so the intake to the compressor housing is on the same side as the front of the engine (chain side)? That's a shame if that's the case it's going to make routing the pipework a PITA!
I take it that the cast iron manifold's shape wasn't quite designed for this turbo/orientation in mind?
I don't think its that bad, as the outlet will go into the IC anyway, its only the air filter that may prove to be a bit of a pain, but you could always run piping to the vent which i believe has some clearance for an air filter s;) ;) s;)
Managed about 2 hours on the car in between it spiss piss spiss ing down!
Much happier with the position of the turbo now, the exhaust side has more room but I might need to route the exhaust over the rear sub-frame, if this is the case I might lose the CHE exhaust and make some thing up.
The turbo intake is now positioned so the air filter sits behind the driver's side rear light and I'll make a cold air feed from the front side vent, over the wheel arch.
Drilled and drained the sump and on Friday should be ok to fit the oil return and the sandwich plate.
Ordered a JJC 90 degree angle to go from the throttle body to the PWR barrel inter-cooler and will just need to make up a MAF pipe, any ideas anybody?
Hoping to have most of the hard ware installed by Saturday not taken any picture yet but will do on Friday.
Elise parts do a lovely alu MAF adaptor pipe - its the best part of 60 quid though.
Out of interest - how badly did the compressor foul the block when the turbo was the other way round? Could you have moved it far enough away using one of these (blocking of the external waste gate port) m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T25-to-T25-T2 ... Sws65TqGj4 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T25-to-T25-T2-to-T2-EXHAUST-ADAPTER-FLANGE-EXTERNAL-WASTEGATE-FLANGE-38mm-/321441784478?hash=item4ad76c629e:g:kq4AAOSws65TqGj4) m ?
Edit - heres the MAF adaptor pipe - not quite as expensive as I thought. m https://www.eliseparts.com/products/sho ... -air-feed/ (https://www.eliseparts.com/products/show/41/725/toyota-air-feed/) m
Just bought a £35 alloy one off eBay.
The compressor housing was just catching the engine block drain but because of the manifold being twisted slightly the compressor intake was very close to bell housing, I felt it would restrict the flow. I would suggest using another manifold or make a simple log one.
If I had not bought the manifold already I would copy the Whiffybits one
to where are you running your coolant feed and drain to the turbo?
I looked at TTE turbo install manual and plan to use the same hose, comes off the block just above the gearbox and bell-house. I've bought some P-clips to keep them away from anything hot.
Quote from: "Mark A"I looked at TTE turbo install manual and plan to use the same hose, comes off the block just above the gearbox and bell-house. I've bought some P-clips to keep them away from anything hot.
I take it that's the drain plug for the coolant in the block?
Quote from: "Mark A"If I had not bought the manifold already I would copy the Whiffybits one
It to me still seems a shame to have the compressor on the front side. Makes space tight for filter and chargecooler heat exchanger. I was going to say why not tig weld one up.. Would imagine the exhaust flow would be a bit more restricting over the cast one though.
Or how about getting a spacer made to put between the head and the exhaust manifold? Maybe out of 10mm steel or something just to bring it a bit more away from the block. Or wasn't it even kinda close to fitting ok?
Whifbitz will sell you their log manifold for £450(!!)
Anybody tried this type of BMC style filter? Auction site number 371508675774, thinking it might be a cheap option for me to the drivers side side intake?
I reckon you could make a turbo log manifold for a £100! I did see a guy on the mig welding forum making some great manifolds might worth tracking him down?
got a link?
Quote from: "Mark A"Just bought a £35 alloy one off eBay.
The compressor housing was just catching the engine block drain but because of the manifold being twisted slightly the compressor intake was very close to bell housing, I felt it would restrict the flow. I would suggest using another manifold or make a simple log one.
Can't post a link its against forum rules but the item number is 361300021283
Today's progress the post turbo piping nearly complete. (http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0547_zpsjc9jksb4.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0547_zpsjc9jksb4.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0556_zpsqcnbihlo.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0556_zpsqcnbihlo.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0549_zpsfuwv0zem.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0549_zpsfuwv0zem.jpg.html)
Just need some new jubilee clips/clamps
Sump tapped and return added plus sandwich plate installed
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0550_zpshlrvy4xp.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0550_zpshlrvy4xp.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0551_zpsa9fon2kt.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0551_zpsa9fon2kt.jpg.html)
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0553_zpsb0spbx0v.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0553_zpsb0spbx0v.jpg.html)
I will need to fabricate a support bracket for the turbo.
What size charge cooler is that mate?
Air intake pipe from behind rear light(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0554_zpszgtzr3d4.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-03/IMAG0554_zpszgtzr3d4.jpg.html)
4x6 PWR
Quote from: "Mark A"4x6 PWR
I was looking at the 5x6.
Bloody dear.
Its all looking good mate.
Yep I bought mine 2nd hand, but new very expensive, could always try a cheap Chinese copy
4x6 is supposedly good for 275bhp
275 is a good starting point and fun with standard tyres. Let's see how long the clutch lasts! When I've finished this I'm chasing 600bhp for the Impreza. Enjoyed today and makes me what to do more, I need to clear some space in the garage so I can get two cars in at once.
Couple of jobs ticked off this morning. E-manage finally talking to the laptop, did not recognise the ECU until I updated the drivers on the laptop for the USB to virtual serial cable. So now need to have a look at the loaded map, I could do with something to compare with, anybody got a map for a similar level of tune as mine.
Rear bulkhead drilled and grommet inserted, large enough to get the Apexi boost controller through.
Finished modifying the Fiat radiator ready for fitting and fitted the hose reducers.
Being sdick dick sdick ed around by the garage welding the downpipe wish I'd done it myself now, tempted to find a TD04 T25 vband exhaust housing and try myself.
MODs you might want to move this thread
Nice to see it's all coming along well! Keep the updates coming, a lot of people might use this for reference!
Quote from: "Mark A"Couple of jobs ticked off this morning. E-manage finally talking to the laptop, did not recognise the ECU until I updated the drivers on the laptop for the USB to virtual serial cable. So now need to have a look at the loaded map, I could do with something to compare with, anybody got a map for a similar level of tune as mine.
Rear bulkhead drilled and grommet inserted, large enough to get the Apexi boost controller through.
Finished modifying the Fiat radiator ready for fitting and fitted the hose reducers.
Being sdick dick sdick ed around by the garage welding the downpipe wish I'd done it myself now, tempted to find a TD04 T25 vband exhaust housing and try myself.
MODs you might want to move this thread
Did you make your own cable? If so, do you have instructions/parts? Mine doesn't work.
Do you want this thread moved to Reader's Rides?
The USB cable came with the ECU. I noticed today that the pressure sensor cable going into the ECU all three wires are loose from small yellow plug! I now need to find the wiring diagram and secure them.
Happy for the thread to be moved if Mods think this is more readers drives than performance related.
Hey Mark, is the cable USB looking at one end and serial on the other? If so do not be fooled into thinking this is USB. Many have tried and failed lol
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Quote from: "CrazySX"Hey Mark, is the cable USB looking at one end and serial on the other? If so do not be fooled into thinking this is USB. Many have tried and failed lol
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Eh? It is. USB-to-Serial is exactly that, USB-to-USB is a bit different as one end is a USB serial TTL converter
EDIT: The above applies to eManage Blue... I think Ultimate has just a normal USB cable
Quote from: "shnazzle"Quote from: "CrazySX"Hey Mark, is the cable USB looking at one end and serial on the other? If so do not be fooled into thinking this is USB. Many have tried and failed lol
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Eh? It is. USB-to-Serial is exactly that, USB-to-USB is a bit different as one end is a USB serial TTL converter
EDIT: The above applies to eManage Blue... I think Ultimate has just a normal USB cable
Yes i refer to the cable you get with a emanage blue. It looks like USB on one end, and Serial on the other. If you naively think you can use a USB to USB it will not work as the USB looking end on the original cable is not USB.
Its looks like any other USB cable but is obliviously not, as its got a cable tie on the end and is heat shrunk on the end,
m http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-gre ... m-scratch/ (http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-greddy-emanage-cable-from-scratch/) m
Quote from: "Glubux"http://www.migee.com/2010/05/06/diy-greddy-emanage-cable-from-scratch/
That's the one I followed. Although I used a USB TTL serial converter instead of a serial TTL plug.
Seems to work.
I just haven't done anything because the only option available when I load it up is "Update Main Unit"...which makes me very nervous because I don't want to overwrite the map I've got on it as it cost Dave a fortune s:) :) s:)
If someone can tell me that this won't overwrite the map, I'll be a happy man
what's the part number of the pump, and do you know the flow?
thanks
Paid a visit to the exhaust place today and this time spoke with welder, had a good chat and he showed me what he's done with downpipe, collecting tomorrow morning, then just need to test fit it and drill the lambda sensors and take back for welding of the bosses. Once that's done 6 hours maximum sorting the plumbing of the charge cooler.
Not sure of the pump volume but don't think it needs to be too high, pump is auxiliary heater pump from a recent VW golf
Paid a visit to the exhaust place today and this time spoke with welder, had a good chat and he showed me what he's done with downpipe, collecting tomorrow morning, then just need to test fit it and drill the lambda sensors and take back for welding of the bosses. Once that's done 6 hours maximum sorting the plumbing of the charge cooler.
Not sure of the pump volume but don't think it needs to be too high, pump is auxiliary heater pump from a recent VW golf
Another 1/2 day spent on the yesterday. Finished and fitted the downpipe, wrapped and sprayed it to try and manage the heat.
(http://i1115.photobucket.com/albums/k542/MarkAtkinson66/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/IMAG0660_zpszja8gne7.jpg) (http://s1115.photobucket.com/user/MarkAtkinson66/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-05/IMAG0660_zpszja8gne7.jpg.html)
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Filled it up with oil & water, put battery boost pack on and it fired into life but would not idle. So now need to connect the down pipe to CHE exhaust and sort out the front mounted radiator for the charge cooler. Once this done then I should hopefully be able to get the E-manage to work properly.
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Can anybody tell me the correct wiring order for the Greddy MAP sensor.
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as you're looking at it, if I recall(this is really not worth the LED's its written on therefore), left signal, middle +5v right ground.
Therefore do the colors look right? Found two pictures both with different coloured wiring positions
That's how mine is wired.
left signal, middle +5v right ground.
Welded up the remaining exhaust section and connected the 2nd lambda, battery dead and won't hold any charge but it started using the Odyssey from the race car. Ran really rich on standard ecu and tracked down a massive air leak by the MAF. Still running rich and very lumpy, won't rev without coughing and popping, not sure what the problem is. Connected the E-manage and won't run for more than 5secs. Any ideas why?
Still final few issues to resolve before its all sorted. Nice to hear it running today, been 3 months since it last was moving. Need to sort out the front mount radiator and pipe work for the IC before its nailed.
Another half day on the car, new injectors fitted after being modified to fit.
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Another lambda sensor welded on, and a couple of other minor bits. Played around with emanage and load a couple of other maps which seem to at least get the thing started and running but still rough and rich. So looks like I need to read up on the manage until I can find the time to get it properly mapped.
Front mounted charge cooler radiator mounted and pipe work to rear all in place, final couple of jobs to do.
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Still struggling to get it started easily, once started sounds like its really running rich, suspect the fueling map I'm using is all over the place and 640s injectors are running it very rich, so might attempt to adjust it so I can run around in it.
I found the injector scaling does work, but you're better off using trial and error with a wideband rather than maths to calculate the figures.
Just play around with it at idle watching the fuel trims till they zero out. (have all 0000 on the manage fuel map for that area when you're doing this)
What does the airflow adjustment map do? On one of the maps it seems to jump from -3 at idle to +5 at 2k then back down to -3
its worth reading as you said. and making a decision yourself based on what you read, but I don't personally use the airflow adjustment map, mines Zeroed out everywhere.. it does exactly that, lies to the ecu about how much air is flowing, and so it ajusts fuel AND ignition. I forget the reason for the map as it was years ago I did mine, but I think most use it to correct idle issues, personally I found it made mine worse.. so I just use fuel and ignition tables.
I believe its a bit of a left-over map really, and not needed, it was in existence originally because the emanage blue was unable to remove fuel... so you had to lie about air flow... but the ultimate can add and remove fuel, so its not needed.
Cheers Stu, had a quick play with it tonight before too antisocial for the neighbours, zero'd out the AF adjustment and starts, stops and idles a lot better, still running a little rich but assume that's the leap from standard injectors to 640's. I need to understand how to take a little more fuel out around the idle etc on the E-manage blue. Thanks for the advice at least I'm making some progress.
I found injector scaling, and then using a fuel pressure reg that was connected to the inlet (so it adds fuel on boost, and removes on vacuum) created a fueling setup that worked really well.. I still have a fuel table obviously, but doing it that way all my fuel table cels have positive figures and no negative.
If its only a little out simply don't worry about it.. until it warms up its running open loop, soon as I goes closed loop the lambda sensor will make fuel trim ajustments on the OEM ecu and fix the idle. but there are limits to the fuel trims, ?20%? I think.. and if you rely on trims too heavily everytime you disconnect the battery it will run crap again until the trims re-ajust.
Quote from: "Mark A"Cheers Stu, had a quick play with it tonight before too antisocial for the neighbours, zero'd out the AF adjustment and starts, stops and idles a lot better, still running a little rich but assume that's the leap from standard injectors to 640's. I need to understand how to take a little more fuel out around the idle etc on the E-manage blue. Thanks for the advice at least I'm making some progress.
out of interest, what values do you have for injector sizes and lag?
I'd need to check the map but entered injector values of 260cc to 640cc which from memory was around the .38-0.4 mark in the little box next to the injectors values. Does that sound right?
Bought a boost pressure switch, so the pump is not running 100% of the time. Plan to set the pump start value at 2-3psi and see how I get on.
let me check mine, reason i ask is mine ran rich with the wrong latency values
Quote from: "Mark A"I'd need to check the map but entered injector values of 260cc to 640cc which from memory was around the .38-0.4 mark in the little box next to the injectors values. Does that sound right?
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Not the best picture, if I use the MAP sensor do I just select Greddy PR?
Blue v's ultimate have different injector scale settings hence keljon is asking about latency settings..
I used a GM sensor and just selected Greddy yeah, the scaling was wrong, but thast only an issue if you don't accept its wrong.. (ie your car may make 7psi, but the emanage may read 12psi..) just consider that while mapping.
Fitted a Dawes MBC just to keep the boost in check. Once I've fitted a boost gauge I'll adjust it a little, set it low to start with and took it around the block, still running rich but boost builds early.
Still struggling to start it and make it idle when it's cold, as soon as its warm it's OK, any suggestions?
sorry if you already posted figues, but I want to get it clear in my head, What do you think is "too rich"
So what AFR does it fast idle at when you first start it cold? (it will be richer than when warm, that's normal).
Also what are the long and short term fuel trims at this point.. (if you don't know these i'd check, get an obd2 dongle and torque for android and look them up in "torque scan" or by setting two gauges one for each"..
Did you fit an uprated fuel pump? these rarely have valves, so your fuel pressure drops making it hard to crank.. you can buy a one way valve put put into the pipe after the pump if that's the case..
Torque scan plugged in but not really had a chance to really study it.
I say it's running rich because I can smell the unburnt fuel and the exhaust gases look black, plus it's proper back firing on over run, don't have a AFR meter yet.
Standard pump at the moment but I have a spare Walbro
If the standard injectors are 280 and the maximum I can run is 150% which is 700?
Just a quick comment this time, until you get the AFR and fuel trim information you're just guessing so kinda wasting your time a little, get the gauges on asap s:) :) s:)
anyhow my quick comment.... I seem to recall greddy are weird.. 150% if I recall (I only use that figure as you quote it) is 150% of the standard.. so 280 standard, 100% would be..... 280... 200% would be 560. I don't know what happens when you enter an invalid figure or if that's even true. its been years since I had a blue.
Still trying to address the cold start issues while I wait for the AFR meter, removed the Greddy and the car started 1st time so the settings on the Greddy must be wrong!
Also looks like the maximum injector size I can run on the blue is 420cc and I have 630cc's
you can put anything you want in.. however the injector scaling won't work beyond that point.. and you'll have to map for it.
until you have your wideband (if you must drive the car) use the short term/long term trims to fix.. start the car.. look at them both and try to even them out (afr is not needed to tune part throttle, you can do that on trims).
So if you have a longterm trim of -20 (I expect you do.. ) and a short term of -20 (again I expect you do) this means both are trying to remove maximum fuel, so remove some from the emanage, this Is where you need airflow adjustment on the blue.. but annoyingly it now ajusts the ignition too.. which you don't really want. but its all you can do. as a shortcut you temporarily want it so the trims cancel out.. so longterm trim says something like -15 but short term says +15 that means soon as the longterm trim has time to ajust they will both be around zero.
OK bear with me for not waiting until the AFR meter arrives but I'm keen for it to at least start with out having to use the battery booster. If I disconnect the Greddy PR in parameter settings it starts first time and runs OK at idle. The Real time dash also shows a reading of -147kPa is that right, even while idling or with just the ignition on?
I don't deal with kpa myself really, but for an idle figure that isn't far wrong... it is a bit low, but the sensors not calibrated so merr... but it should be different between idle and off..
however what are your maps? if you disconnect the sensor is it throttle position v's rpm? or airflow v's rpm? does that change if you connect the sensor by default to pressure v's rpm? if not it sholdnt make a difference.
Right back in the room!
Bought some cheap 2nd hand Astra VXR injectors and modified them to fit the Toyota fuel rail.Fitted them at the weekend and now have injectors which will operate within the limits of Greddy Emanage Blue. Innovate AFR gauge bought off Ebay for a steal and that arrived yesterday, so hopefully I'll fit that this weekend with a boost gauge and then have a play at mapping it.
I had exactly the same problem with mine when I first fitted the turbo.
It ran stupid rich and wouldn't tick over properly.
Turned out the maf was duff. It broke at exactly the same time I fitted the turn for some wierd reason.
If you need it I could download a copy of my map and email it you. Your setup is very similar to mine. It's far from perfect but runs and hasn't blown up yet in over a year.
Hi Lee that would be helpful I'll pm my email address
No problem, I'll get it sorted for you,
Stu's advice makes sense though, I need to look at mine again. It drinks fuel in traffic, creeping in second gear. Everywhere else along the map seems ok though.
Mark, forgot to ask.. How are you running your emanage? Maf or map?
AFR gauge fitted but struggling to understand what's going on. AFR is hovering around 20-22 at idle, so changed the injectors back to standard and only slightly better, dialed in 50 air flow correction and still running at 18, do you think the Emanage might be incorrectly set up? If so any ideas which settings? Therotor switch is 4-2-1 and using TY 3 maf. Greddy map connected.
Personally I would zero out the airflow and adjust fueling instead. There's a separate idling table on the emanage.
Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk
It's a E-manage blue don't think it has those functions!
You're technically correct, it's called Anti Stall, and I shouldn't have mentioned it because it's bad practices to use it to control idle.
It should be done in the fueling table.
Are you using a dump valve venting to atmosphere by any chance?
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stupid question, but is your maf pipe in the right way around. Im sure the maf would see a greatly reduced airflow if it was the wrong way making it lean.
You car should start and idle ok even with all the maps zero'd. The closed loop sees to that. Mine has a blow off to atmosphere and never stalls.
Took the car back to basics removing the ECU, injectors and pipework. I now suspect it's not the Greddy E-manage. Can anybody show me the location of your MAF on a turbo installation? I think it might be the location of the MAF and it's proximity of a 90 degree bend. I might try another MAF also.
Have a look at my thread mark. I've just updated it with a pic
Mine was literally fitted to a 90 bend but it worked. I just had nuts on the inside of the pipe I expected to get sucked into the engine. So have changed it now
A little progress today, found a Subaru STi MAF which is a direct replacement but rated in excess of 350 bhp. Planning to test MAF and see if it makes a difference. Won't get to RE route the MAF pipe work as the Touareg needs it propshaft changing.
Tested the MAF and little difference so now suspect its the MAF tube positioning and the proximity to a 90 degree bend with a reduction, as it seems to run OK with out the attached bend. Two weeks off soon and away so little progress likely.
Also bought this for £20 so should resolve the lack of an expansion tank for the charge cooler
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Back from my holidays and spent a little time trying to resolve the issues I have with the car and turbo installation.
RE-routed the intake and re-positioned the MAF, much happier with this now but it means the charger cooler sits over exhaust manifold so will need some heat management.
Car ran better but still running rich, the disappointing thing I discovered and might have been worsening the situation is the oil seal on the compressor side of the new turbo has failed and the MAF has been contaminated with oil. I must have damaged it while clocking the turbo.
So pretty spiss piss spiss ed off and need to take stock before deciding what to do.
Is it a ball bearing turbo or a journal turbo?
If it's a ball bearing type what are you using to restrict the oil feed?
yeah, I doubt you've damaged it while clocking the thing, especially if you only loosened it and rotated it.. if you've had it apart.... na even then I doubt it.. you've got unlucky and its faulty as new or you've got an issue like Richards suggesting or your return pipe is not returning properly etc.
Right been a month and a lot has happened but not to the car!
Brief summary went on holiday for 2 weeks, came home and became infected with Campylobacter lost about a stone in weight and had about three weeks off work. Been back at work for 2 and finally back to normal.
In that time I've had a long hard think about the car the direction of travel and missed another MR2 Summer!
When I last updated this thread the turbo was pizzing oil out of the compressor output, fountain style! I've come to the assumption that some how when initially testing the fit and trying to clock the turbo I've damaged the main seal. I'll take the turbo off and replace the seal in the hope that this resolves the problem, this might also explain some of the issues I'd been having with the idle as the MAF was very oiled up when i removed it.
So I hope in the next couple of weeks to restart work on this mother and get the little focker finished before it turns too cold.
Mark
Glad your back to your best.
Looking forward to more updates.