Hi all,
My Gumtree alert popped up with this:
m https://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-mot ... 1156266054 (https://www.gumtree.com/p/cars-vans-motorbikes/toyota-celica-mr2-turbo-kit/1156266054) m
I know it's for a MK2, but my question is how many bits in a (in this) turbo setup are transferable to a MK3?
Apologies if there already is a shopping list somewhere... Just thought that if it were possible to salvage from other marques it'd be a cost saver!
Looking at that the turbo and downpipe could be used, however you will need to either make or find a manifold to suit the 1zz and turbo, then bespoke exhaust, have oil and water lines made up and finally the boost pipework. Intercooler could be used but would recommend a charge cooler
That looks like £270 for £10 worth of scrap to me.
You'd need at least:
Exhaust Manifold
Turbo with compressor and turbine characteristics matched to the 1.8
Downpipe, cat etc to a compatible exhaust
Intake pipework (hard pipes plus some silicone joiners)
Mappeable ecu to properly control the fuelling
Boost control (a manual boost controller isn't a great solution)
Probably bigger injectors and an uprated fuel pump, because fuel starvation leads to detonation and kills engines.
If you're doing it properly you also need an intercooler, again for detonation prevention and to increase efficiency.
With that lot you could boost to perhaps 6-8 psi 'safely'. Beyond that you need to give some consideration to the engine internals - lower compression pistins, stronger rods, that kind of thing.
Turbo'ing doesn't come cheap. You have to pay to play.
Thanks guys.... Ignoring that post then!
Quote from: "JoeCool"That looks like £270 for £10 worth of scrap to me.
You'd need at least:
Exhaust Manifold
Turbo with compressor and turbine characteristics matched to the 1.8
Downpipe, cat etc to a compatible exhaust
Intake pipework (hard pipes plus some silicone joiners)
Mappeable ecu to properly control the fuelling
Boost control (a manual boost controller isn't a great solution)
Probably bigger injectors and an uprated fuel pump, because fuel starvation leads to detonation and kills engines.
If you're doing it properly you also need an intercooler, again for detonation prevention and to increase efficiency.
With that lot you could boost to perhaps 6-8 psi 'safely'. Beyond that you need to give some consideration to the engine internals - lower compression pistins, stronger rods, that kind of thing.
Turbo'ing doesn't come cheap. You have to pay to play.
Sorry mate you have made a couple of wrong shouts here.
10 psi is easily safe for stock 1zz. My gauge sometimes reads 11.
You would be running some BIG injectors if you needed a new fuel pump. 440cc will give 240bhp no worries.
I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Sorry mate you have made a couple of wrong shouts here.
10 psi is easily safe for stock 1zz. My gauge sometimes reads 11.
You would be running some BIG injectors if you needed a new fuel pump. 440cc will give 240bhp no worries.
I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
Pretty sure the stock internals are fine up to close to the 300 mark.
I was running 10 psi, completely stock engine and using 380cc injectors (MWR - markiii ran 260bhp on them) so I completely agree. Also running horribly rich s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I've known 525/550cc on stock pump and regulator.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Sorry mate you have made a couple of wrong shouts here.
10 psi is easily safe for stock 1zz. My gauge sometimes reads 11.
You would be running some BIG injectors if you needed a new fuel pump. 440cc will give 240bhp no worries.
I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
fair enough, I've never turbo'd a 1zz I was going from 'general' advice for turbo'ing an NA engine. Surprised 1zz's are that strong, I guess it's just the precat issue that kills the bottom end, not an inherent weakness.
Quote from: "1979scotte"I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
So something like this ? Bay of E
151993334746
Yeah something like that but you'd be better off getting a stronger cast iron one over stainless... then get a nice big pile of bits (this is everything you need - unless you find a 2nd hand TTE then you need a lot less) s:D :D s:D
(http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/turbokit.jpg)
Onion86 did you get the c2 kit on your sable?
Quote from: "onion86"Yeah something like that but you'd be better off getting a stronger cast iron one over stainless... then get a nice big pile of bits (this is everything you need - unless you find a 2nd hand TTE then you need a lot less) s:D :D s:D
Oh cool - ok, thanks for the advice...
That's a great pic - very informative! Useful to see the sum total!
I can't help but notice that there appears to be a clutch in your pic.. I've just renewed my one to standard toyota - what power can that handle?
Also - I can tell what most of that stuff is in the pic, but not everything. If I sent the pic back to you with numbers labelled - could you tell me what things are?
Anyone got a second hand TTE turbo kit they want to sell???? or know where to get one?
You will need to update the clutch when you go turbo charged
Quote from: "s12vea"You will need to update the clutch when you go turbo charged
damn.... that was poor forward thinking on my side..
The spike in torque will kill the clutch quickly.
Quote from: "jvanzyl"That's a great pic - very informative! Useful to see the sum total!
I can't help but notice that there appears to be a clutch in your pic.. I've just renewed my one to standard toyota - what power can that handle?
Also - I can tell what most of that stuff is in the pic, but not everything. If I sent the pic back to you with numbers labelled - could you tell me what things are?
starting at the clutch and going anti clockwise, it's a:
Uprated clutch.
Boost controller.
Pretty sure the blue box is an ecu
Big lump is a cast iron manifold connected to the turbo itself.
Above that is an intake pipe and cone filter.
Then the intercooler core.
Below that is the exhaust and below that is the down pipe that connects turbo to exhaust.
Sitting on top of that is a dump valve - looms to be a recirculating type but I'm not sure.
I don't know what the small thing in the white cardboard box is.
So really, it's just a load of pipes!
Thanks Joe - I'm guessing those are uprated injectors?
Cheers for the info on the clutch - guess I'll just enjoy it as much as possible on stock! I'll probably try out the Maf mod if I can get hold of some yellow injectors...
They are indeed uprated injectors.
Quote from: "s12vea"Onion86 did you get the c2 kit on your sable?
I found one of my posts saying I was going to do it 4 years ago... but no!, I will in a few months, honest!
Quote from: "jvanzyl"Quote from: "s12vea"You will need to update the clutch when you go turbo charged
damn.... that was poor forward thinking on my side..
Oddly enough I never actually fitted that clutch (it's in the loft in a box), I can only assume that my old MR-S already had an uprated clutch, but I'm not sure why.
Quote from: "onion86"Quote from: "s12vea"Onion86 did you get the c2 kit on your sable?
I found one of my posts saying I was going to do it 4 years ago... but no!, I will in a few months, honest!
Slow and steady wins the race s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "s12vea"Quote from: "onion86"Quote from: "s12vea"Onion86 did you get the c2 kit on your sable?
I found one of my posts saying I was going to do it 4 years ago... but no!, I will in a few months, honest!
Slow and steady wins the race s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Changed job a couple of years ago after redundancy and have a 1.5 hour commute rather than 4 minutes, also bought a house so been doing things so just don't get enough "2 time" (copyright s:D :D s:D ), also only do about 1k miles a year in the '2... I should just pull my finger out and stop making excuses! I'm having some new rear tyres fitted next weekend so it's making a start!
I will look forward to seeing things progress! Really liked that kit.
Quote from: "onion86"Quote from: "1979scotte"Sorry mate you have made a couple of wrong shouts here.
10 psi is easily safe for stock 1zz. My gauge sometimes reads 11.
You would be running some BIG injectors if you needed a new fuel pump. 440cc will give 240bhp no worries.
I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
Pretty sure the stock internals are fine up to close to the 300 mark.
I was running 10 psi, completely stock engine and using 380cc injectors (MWR - markiii ran 260bhp on them) so I completely agree. Also running horribly rich s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I've known 525/550cc on stock pump and regulator.
anything north of 240 or so bhp its not the engine thats the weakpoint its the gearbox
Quote from: "markiii"Quote from: "onion86"Quote from: "1979scotte"Sorry mate you have made a couple of wrong shouts here.
10 psi is easily safe for stock 1zz. My gauge sometimes reads 11.
You would be running some BIG injectors if you needed a new fuel pump. 440cc will give 240bhp no worries.
I agree with everything else youve said.
Start with a good cast manifold that dictates the type of flange you have from there pick your turbo.
Pretty sure the stock internals are fine up to close to the 300 mark.
I was running 10 psi, completely stock engine and using 380cc injectors (MWR - markiii ran 260bhp on them) so I completely agree. Also running horribly rich s:lol: :lol: s:lol: I've known 525/550cc on stock pump and regulator.
anything north of 240 or so bhp its not the engine thats the weakpoint its the gearbox
I thought it was 240 lb of torque that was the weak point for the gearbox.
If not my plans will have to change.
Close Joe s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "JoeCool"Quote from: "jvanzyl"That's a great pic - very informative! Useful to see the sum total!
I can't help but notice that there appears to be a clutch in your pic.. I've just renewed my one to standard toyota - what power can that handle?
Also - I can tell what most of that stuff is in the pic, but not everything. If I sent the pic back to you with numbers labelled - could you tell me what things are?
starting at the clutch and going anti clockwise, it's a:
Uprated clutch.
Boost controller. Innovate AFR gauge pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/AFR.jpg)
Pretty sure the blue box is an ecu yup, eManage Blue piggyback pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/emanage.jpg)
Big lump is a cast iron manifold connected to the turbo itself. pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/GT28R.jpg)
Above that is an intake pipe and cone filter. pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/apexiintake.jpg)
Then the intercooler core. pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/intercooler.jpg)
Below that is the exhaust and below that is the down pipe that connects turbo to exhaust. bit with the backbox
Below that is intake pipe (from intercooler to throttle body), you can see the MAF on the left
Sitting on top of that is a dump valve - looms to be a recirculating type but I'm not sure. Sard R2D2 BoV (non-recirculating). Manual boost controller is the little red bit on the blue pipe next to the left of the BoV, it's just wrapped round it and doesn't actually go there so that's probably why you weren't sure pic (http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/r2d2bov.jpg)
I don't know what the small thing in the white cardboard box is. Fuel Injectors as has been suggested
So really, it's just a load of pipes!
It is generally torque that kills gearboxes. Before I went V6, I was considering running 10psi through the mid range, which gives you around 240lb/ft and ramping boost up towards the top end to counteract the torque fall off past 4500rpm.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"It is generally torque that kills gearboxes. Before I went V6, I was considering running 10psi through the mid range, which gives you around 240lb/ft and ramping boost up towards the top end to counteract the torque fall off past 4500rpm.
What kit was that on Chris?
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "ChrisGB"It is generally torque that kills gearboxes. Before I went V6, I was considering running 10psi through the mid range, which gives you around 240lb/ft and ramping boost up towards the top end to counteract the torque fall off past 4500rpm.
What kit was that on Chris?
Would have been a bespoke build.
Quote from: "onion86"Yeah something like that but you'd be better off getting a stronger cast iron one over stainless... then get a nice big pile of bits (this is everything you need - unless you find a 2nd hand TTE then you need a lot less) s:D :D s:D
(http://www.azekiel.co.uk/mrs/images/c2turbo/turbokit.jpg)
Out of interest, how loud was your exhaust, building mine at the moment and concerned it's going to be too loud with a single box
The turbo really quietens things down, I ran a single box with no noise issues.
Quote from: "ChrisGB"The turbo really quietens things down, I ran a single box with no noise issues.
Yeah, there was more 'drone' noise at constant motorway speeds, but generally it was quieter than my TTE.