I just fitted some 6" components to my car and vibration is shocking and the music sounds worse because of it.
I believe the answer is to Dynamat the door? however do i just need a 10" square for the speaker to sit in or does the whole door need doing?
I have used Hi tac flashing from Wicks. You can also buy similar from Homebase.
Wipe down the area of the door you will be applying the flashing to with alcohol and try to a heat gun to help the flashing stick. I fitted the flashing to the outside skin within the door, then to the inside skin of the door.
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/grantfos/Toyota%20MR2%20Roadster/CF598025-5593-4990-B099-688E20806A51_zpshchaoriv.jpg~original) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/grantfos/media/Toyota%20MR2%20Roadster/CF598025-5593-4990-B099-688E20806A51_zpshchaoriv.jpg.html)
Also check the speaker hole on the door card, as I maybe loose and cause vibration from the speaker. If so run clear silicone round the inside of the speaker hole.
(http://i1078.photobucket.com/albums/w498/grantfos/Toyota%20MR2%20Roadster/D19D9F98-3BB5-4FB4-81CB-B60E63FB4E77_zpsynrcthmi.jpg~original) (http://s1078.photobucket.com/user/grantfos/media/Toyota%20MR2%20Roadster/D19D9F98-3BB5-4FB4-81CB-B60E63FB4E77_zpsynrcthmi.jpg.html)
cheers, I need to double check the grills as most of the vibration is from here.
I see you have done most of the door which I was unsure if I needed too, will give it a bash at the weekend
First off a disclaimer - from 2002 through 2014 I worked in the car audio industry, owning a car audio distributors, and I have been interested in car audio since the mid 1990's.
I really would not advise the use of the flashing tape solutions. It doesnt work anywhere near as well, and you need to put way more on to get the same result as a single layer of dynamat. It was something recommended 10ish years ago in the audio forums but quickly was realised to be a false economy.
What i would say is this -
1 - Use Dynamat Extreme or similar - a aluminium backed product works better. Lots better normally. OE dynamat is not the best anymore.
2 - Singer Roadkill Extreme (check ebay) as it is the same product made in the same place as dynamat extreme.
3 - If you want a cheaper product look into Silent Coat. it is NOT as good, but is by no means a bad product. And is LOTS cheaper.
4 - If you want to make a good effect aim for at least 85% coverage of 1 layer. Less than this it will not do the job fully.
HTH.
I used silent coat in my vw camper. It is good and way heavier than the flashing tape I was going to take to ding day. Plus no need to heat it. I was put off the flashing tape for the van doors by reports of it falling off and then gumming up the door mechanism
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i would heat silent coat up as the latex doesnt soften correctly until heated, and you need to panel wipe the doors and use a WOOD roller.
thats the same for ALL of the deadeners, but more on silent coat - or at least the NEWER silent coat (without the logos, just the squares) the older stuff with the embossed logos used a different forumula so was less heat activated, but you would want it hot so its softer.
i used flashing tape in the end. its done a great job to the sound. just a slight rattle on the passenger door that i need to find
That is interesting about the heating. Mine is squares with the logos. I used white spirit to clean first and just pushed it on. Still pretty well stuck on
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Big techie thread on DIYMA website, one guy tests lots of different deadened, out of the ones available in the UK (DIYMA is a US forum) Silent Coat 4mm is deemed best in performance, heat resistance and stickability
m http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/mem ... ng-69.html (http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/member-reviews-product-comparisons/146403-sound-deadening-cld-testing-69.html) m
Last page has a summary at the end
There's also a separate thread suggesting it's considerable better to use one big piece on a panel, rather than lots of little ones.
Diyma is a great resource.
Quote from: "Thetroublemaker"Diyma is a great resource.
Isn't it just?