Hello Everyone. Just looking for some help. I'm about to try installing a new windscreen mounted DAB aerial and it looks like it involves removal of the pillar trim to allow the earth pad to make contact with the metal and also to hide the wires. I believe removal of the trim involves the undoing of the soft top clip at the top of the windscreen. I've read so many horror stories about the torx bolts these clips are held on with & wondered if anyone had had any success without having had to drill the bolts out? Alternatively is it possible to pull the trim away just enough to allow installation of the aerial without undoing the clips? I'd be interested to know what tools have been used successfully and which methods, heat, WD40 etc.....
Many thanks
Fitted my DAB aerial on Saturday, 10 minute job. Fitted on left side to past small fuse and into back of stereo that way. Torx bolts off on passenger side, they were very tight still but came off and on without a problem. 2 bolts holding the panel covering the left side of the dash then prised the pillar trim away. In and out in ten mins. It's helpful when fitting the stereo in these cars that the back of the stereo is quite accessible if a bit untidy.
Cheers Wilko. I'll be giving mine a go at the end of the week. I may try heating them up first before trying to undo them. I'm scared that either the heads will shear off, or the torx shaped recess will just round off. What tool did you use?
I didnt bother with the stick on aerial just bought a splitter off ebay that uses the factory aerial for the dab
I have a stick on DAB Aerial on my 350Z windscreen, rubbish. Would recommend a proper one that you can hide somewhere.
I'm going to 'stick' with the stick on aerial for the time being as I've already bought it and I've heard a lot of people complain about the adapters for the existing aerials too. In the end I suppose there's no substitue for a brand new body mounted DAB aerial but I've been trying to avoid the cost if I can. I've also been trying to avoid hassle and to that end I was encouraged by a photo I saw showing someone pulling the pillar trim away from the pillar just enough to gain access. I tried it & it pulled away quite easily. Only on the outer edge though and not on the windscreen edge. As it stood it was useless so I tried pulling the top section away from the bolted roof clip that had been giving me nightmares. To my surprise it pulled away quite easily and from there on it was relatively easy to pull the whole trim off. So, for anyone thinking of fitting a stick on aerial onto the windscreen, this could be the way forward. Yes it was a bit of a fiddle getting it back on again, but my amateurish hands managed it in a couple of minutes. The main plus is that I no longer have to worry about undoing those dreaded torx bolts on the roof clips. Tomorrow I'm going to remove the original radio and replace it with the new DAB/bluetooth affair (Pioneer MVH-X580DAB). Are there any further pitfalls/sticky areas I need to be aware of?
The radio is in. No major hitches, just took a long time. I followed a helpful youtube video with regards to removal of the original one. The fascia adapter I bought turned out to be for more than one car and needed optional bits to be sawn off so it would fit. I'm more than happy with it & so far DAB reception has been very good, though I have yet to test it in the middle of town where it can sometimes be a bit hit and miss.
DAB signal always seems a bit hit and miss and sometimes where you would think there is great signal there is not, hope it works out.
So far dab reception has been faultless. Even in areas I've had problems with in the past. And that was with factory fitted aerials. I've earthed it properly and took some paint off to make sure. I'm guessing this makes a difference. I've seen reviews saying that these aerials have started off very well but have deteriorated over time. My suspicion is that it's the earth connection which has failed. Anyway it's all good at the moment. Time will tell.
Do you not find the sound quality of DAB is flat and Mono compared to FM or Mp3's?
You may have a point but I like DAB for the extra channels I can get. Particularly 6 Music and Jazz fm..
Late reply but my experience may prove useful to another member contemplating removing these bolts. Firstly as I think has been mentioned, they do come supplied from the manufacturer with a band of thread lock applied, this combined with the relatively shallow star head can make them a swine to remove. The first word of advice I would give is to make sure you are using the correct size socket (the size smaller will fit, and seems to grip, but will round off the surfaces when pressure is applied), and make sure you keep the socket wrench at 90 degrees to the bolt head whilst applying firm constant pressure. Keeping 90 degrees is difficult at the best of times due to the angle of the "A" pillar, but trying to keep it whilst applying anti-clockwise pressure is a two person job. If you do muck the head up, it is possible to drill a new (sharp) 4-5mm HSS bit through the shaft and use an "easy out" reverse thread extractor to remove the bolt, take your time making sure you are drilling the dead centre of the bolt, as there is not a huge amount of leeway before you come out the side and hit the pillar. I would again recommend another pair of eyes to keep you central and level. Apply plenty of WD40 to the reverse of the bolt (access holes in the a pillar) and again use firm constant pressure. New bolts are available from Toyota, their part number is :90148-80046. Oh and if you do have to put new ones back in, I would suggest removing the threadlock first. They are still tight, and even if they started to loosen, would not just fall off the pillar without you noticing a loose bracket the next time you open your roof. I hope someone finds this useful. Thanks guys and girls.
Do you have the exact size of the correct torx bit?
I started taking mine off but abandoned it as it was starting to round. It came loose and I got about 3 turns but then it locked.
Quote from: "shnazzle"Do you have the exact size of the correct torx bit?
I started taking mine off but abandoned it as it was starting to round. It came loose and I got about 3 turns but then it locked.
Lol, I thought someone was going to ask that s:D :D s:D I don't remember it off hand but will get my sockets out again tomorrow and update you. All I remember is I thought initially that it was the smaller one.
You can remove the trim without removing the roof catches. The trim slides under the catches
Quote from: "mulaz"You can remove the trim without removing the roof catches. The trim slides under the catches
"Removing" wasn't an issue for me, but trying to re-fit I couldn't get it to slide in. I guess if I had used a rubber mallet it might have gone, but at the time I thought "just remove those two bolts...........how hard can it be?!!!" s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Indeed. Removal is easy but refitting is a nightmare because of one of the plastic hooks. It flexes too much. I had an absolute nightmare fitting it back. Hence me trying to remove the bracket
Quote from: "shnazzle"Do you have the exact size of the correct torx bit?
I've had a look at what I used successfully (after mistakenly using one too small) it appears a T40 is the correct size.
Cool,thanks s:) :) s:)
sorry for the thread resurrection but HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET THESE BLOODY TORX SCREWS OFF?
With the correct size bit, something like an impact driver oh and a lot of luck?!
Are you a man of God?
It may be the thing that cracks it.
The only thing I've heard work is an impact gun.
That's how Dick Sloan gets them.
I was able to manipulate mine out of the way slightly, but, if I remember correctly someone advised me several years ago that careful use of a sharp Stanley blade where the trim meets those clamps means you can lever the trim out without undoing the bolts.
For DAB you need to make sure the sticker is touching metal so will need to manoeuvre it one way or t'other.
If you are going to attempt to undo them please please verify the torx size as the bolts are made of cheese.
Correct. I removed mine without removing the screws.
Took about 30 mins of fiddling per side to get it back on but I did get it done. I remember thinking that next time I would use a flexible rod to tie a wire to if I desperately needed to thread it through there again
Quote from: Bossworld on September 26, 2020, 21:35I was able to manipulate mine out of the way slightly, but, if I remember correctly someone advised me several years ago that careful use of a sharp Stanley blade where the trim meets those clamps means you can lever the trim out without undoing the bolts.
For DAB you need to make sure the sticker is touching metal so will need to manoeuvre it one way or t'other.
If you are going to attempt to undo them please please verify the torx size as the bolts are made of cheese.
I want to do it properly rather than getting it out, as above said it would be a pain to get back in.
The Torx size is T40.
Don't think I have a powered impact driver. Only got screwdrivers. If I had a spanner to get some leverage on it, would be more useful. Just can't get enough strength to twist the screwdriver.
As said, they are made of 'cheese'. They also have a good amount of threadlock on them which is why they're difficult to remove. The pastics can be wrenched out, but difficult or impossible to get the side plastic clip to re-engage in the pillar. Mine didn't go back in quite as tidily under the windscreen bracket either.
I suggest removing the plastics & using heat on the screws to soften the threadlock.
I fitted a torx bit into a socket and used a ratchet.
Kept lots of down force pressure on the torx and tapped the handle on the ratchet with a hammer to shock the bolt free. :-)
Quote from: moredun on September 28, 2020, 22:02I fitted a torx bit into a socket and used a ratchet.
Kept lots of down force pressure on the torx and tapped the handle on the ratchet with a hammer to shock the bolt free. :-)
Big strong boy.
The danger is that you damage the head with a normal socket. If you do get it wrong you are in for a world of pain!
Thats why I would recommend the impact driver as all your force can go downwards (ok upwards!) and the impact driver does the twisting.
Quote from: Topdownman on September 29, 2020, 12:14The danger is that you damage the head with a normal socket. If you do get it wrong you are in for a world of pain!
Thats why I would recommend the impact driver as all your force can go downwards (ok upwards!) and the impact driver does the twisting.
I have an impact driver, the danger for someone not use to them is hitting it too hard and causing panel damage.
In the end, I found it easier to use a socket and ratchet but everyone to their own :-P
I've struggled to take a decent picture with the garage lighting but if you look towards the bottom left, you'll see where I made the lower incision on the trim with the knife. Similar at the top, and then there's no need to take the screws out/the panel still stays in place as hoped for.
Totally didn't intend to remove the damned thing again but hopefully these help someone else in the future
(https://i.ibb.co/MN6m6kY/PXL-20200930-102242362.jpg) (https://ibb.co/RHyqyTx)
(https://i.ibb.co/8P1Vq7w/PXL-20200930-103105042.jpg) (https://ibb.co/JrDPVsT)
(https://i.ibb.co/8KvdDjX/PXL-20200930-103143478.jpg) (https://ibb.co/K04Lj9m)
The ariel is in a similar position to where I fixed the base unit for my dash cam.
Having read some time ago about the difficulty in removing these screws I was apprehensive but found that I could get the wire to the centre of the screen by simply pushing the wire under the trim.
If I remember correctly I released the bottom of the left side trim and used a wire coat hanger with the cable attached to get it near to the top of the screen and then pushed it under the top section, certainly didn't need to tackle the screws.