my friends MRS power steering pump died a week ago, and he went to the Yota dealer in our country.
He was asked for £720 plus VAT. s:shock: :shock: s:shock: plus labour s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
We searched for a used pump but its a bit impossible to find.. s:? :? s:?
So im wondering if its possible to fit the Celica steering pump, since here there are a few 2ZZ guys, and they should know. s:?: :?: s:?:
Thanks
Celica = mechanical engine driven pump
MR2 = Electric pump
s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
thanks... that means he is gonna have to put his hand very deep in his pocket..
You/he could ask "Jap GT300" if he happens to have a used one...
OK, mines gone s:evil: :evil: s:evil: , went on the way to work, stopped me smoking whilst driving as I would never made it around the roundabouts, it was hard enough anyway just changing gear and steering. My arm muscles will give popeye a run for his money after this is over.
<<Spits feathers out of mouth>>
oh crap, sorry to here that Liz, good luck getting it fixed
Thanks Stu s:) :) s:) , not impressed I can tell you, just been sodding serviced as well, I have a cunning plan though that involves the AA and their parts and labour warranty s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: Means living with it for two weeks though, can you cause any damage to the car by driving it like it? Or am I likely to do more damage to my arms?
It won't damage the car, but will end up leaving you looking like a Russian shotputter! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "Slacey"It won't damage the car
Not so sure about that - the seals in the hydraulic cylinders on the steering rack are going to take a beating as they were designed to have pressure behind them. Having had PAS pumps fail on a couple of cars in the past I can confirm that they leaked like sieves when I eventually had the pumps replaced.
My advice would be drive it as little as possible - there is no point causing more damage if you dont have to.
I do have another PS pump available if you can't get the problem sorted.
Quote from: "SteveJ"the seals in the hydraulic cylinders on the steering rack
What are you talking about?
Just got in from work...what a horrid thing to drive it is without the P/S. Thanks for the pm Adam, I am keeping my fingers crossed you have one.
This may seem a daft question, but there isn't something simple that I should be checking before assuming that the pump has gone is there? A nice cheap fuse for example?
So can I drive it or not, I am all confused now, to be honest I would rather not, the chances of steering accurately out of the way in an emergency are not good s:? :? s:?
Quote from: "Jap GT300"Quote from: "SteveJ"the seals in the hydraulic cylinders on the steering rack
What are you talking about?
Do you not know how hydraulic PAS works?
Quote from: "Liz"This may seem a daft question, but there isn't something simple that I should be checking before assuming that the pump has gone is there? A nice cheap fuse for example?
Yeah, you should check the fuse and/or relay, don't really remember what it had and don't have the BGB here. And that there's fluid in the reservoir.
Thanks to Adam sourcing a pump at £150, cheap compared to Mr T's price - just a couple of things, does the 04 model pump fit on the 01 model, and what part of it would I need, I have been asked if it is just the pump or the whole unit?
Also on ringing the garage where I want it fitted they have told me that it may be just as easy to disconnect the battery as this may reset it. And in anycase they have no window available for 2 weeks for fitting it. s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
Obviously I am going to try the battery thing tonight in case in works, keeping fingers crossed.
I hate my car at the moment! s:evil: :evil: s:evil:
Just tried the car to see if some minor miracle had happened whilst its on the drive - alas no! But this may help with the diagnosis, when the car is first fired up the P/S is there, but it goes off after a couple of seconds and the light stays on on the dash. Do you think that as it is there in the first instance that it is the pump? Sorry so many questions, its the first time that the damn thing has had anything wrong with it! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Interesting.. to me, that would imply that it's being shut down because a control unit is sensing a problem..
You didn't answer Tem really - have you checked to make sure there's fluid there? I'm sure you have, but.. s;) ;) s;) Maybe there's a fluid level sensor that's stopped working (ergo the control unit thinks the pump is dry and switches it off to prevent it siezing).
Sorry, yes the fluid is full, it was only serviced last week, as for the fuse I had a look at the fuse numbers and saw the the P/S fuse is linked to the ABS, so if the fuse had gone then surely the ABS warning light would be on as well? I have disconnected the battery - didn't need my husband to help as one mechanic said to me s:roll: :roll: s:roll: , will of been off for about an hour and half by the time I get home, so we shall see.
Quote from: "Liz"didn't need my husband to help as one mechanic said to me s:roll: :roll: s:roll:
s:roll: :roll: s:roll: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
The little lady can use a spanner then?
*ducks and legs it*
Only joking Liz..
On the fuse issue - good question.. If that fuse is the only one supplying power to the ABS, and the ABS light is only activated by the ABS ECU (i.e. the main ECU doesn't turn it on when it detects a problem with the ABS ECU, if you see what I mean) then it might well not light up if that fuse had gone..
Definitely worth checking anyway - only a 30 second job, and it's always blindingly obvious when a fuse has gone thanks to fuses being seethrough these days (rather than cylinder fuses that you can't see into) s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "Liz"Just tried the car to see if some minor miracle had happened whilst its on the drive - alas no! But this may help with the diagnosis, when the car is first fired up the P/S is there, but it goes off after a couple of seconds and the light stays on on the dash. Do you think that as it is there in the first instance that it is the pump? Sorry so many questions, its the first time that the damn thing has had anything wrong with it! s:oops: :oops: s:oops:
Sounds like your problems is probably on the electrical circuit to the PS pump; faulty relay s:?: :?: s:?:
There are two fuses and one relay needed for the EHPS.
(actually more, but the others will kill more than just that)
7.5A ECU-IG (left side of instrument panel)
50A EHPS (left side of front compartment)
EHPS RELAY (left side of front compartment)
You probably checked the 100A ALT fuse, which also has ABS behind it?
Then again, if any of those is dead, I don't think it would work at all. But they are worth checking anyway.
Thanks Tem,
Have checked the one at the left side of the instrument panel and thats ok, getting dark now so will check the others tomorrow, thanks guys! ECU reset didn't help s:cry: :cry: s:cry: , and yes Aaron the little lady can tighten nuts! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "Liz"and yes Aaron the little lady can tighten nuts! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
*splutter* s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s:shock: :shock: s:shock: s;) ;) s;)
Thinking on about it, like Tem says, I think it's more likely you'd get no PAS at all if the fuses were gone, it wouldn't even start up..
So maybe relay - I seem to remember reading about that being a common fault somewhere? Or it could be a sensor, something silly like the fluid level sensor maybe - worth checking continuity on that with a multimeter, assuming it's a simple open/closed switch circuit.
I agree it won't be one of the main fuses as you wouldn't get the power steering working at all. Could be a faulty sensor as Aaron said. Who is it that has all the data on here with drawings etc s:?: :?: s:?:
It literally works for seconds after the engine has started them stops, it feels as though it has a build up of pressure and then it tails off. Most weird.
Quote from: "heathstimpson"Who is it that has all the data on here with drawings etc s:?: :?: s:?:
Well, I have the BGB...but IIRC, it pretty much just shows the connections to PS-ECU and doesn't tell what it actually does s:? :? s:? Don't have it at work, but I can take a closer look tonight...
Liz, if you start the car, but don't start driving, does it stay on? Or does it die the moment you first steer? I think it did have some pressure sensor(s), which could cause a healthy pump to do just that.
(or maybe the pump is gone, we're only guessing here)
Tem,
The power steering light stays on when it is started and the P/S is there as soon as you touch the steering wheel, but after about 20 seconds it dies away. When it is driven the light stays on and there is no power.
Liz, it could stil be the P/S pump, if the control system is shutting it down because the current loading is becoming too high then it will still appear to run and then stop, so i'm afraid you cant isolate this yet, sorry. What we need is a good set of manuals for these troublesome cars of ours s:? :? s:?
I have booked the car into Mr T tomorrow at 11.00 so they can diagnose what is wrong with it, actually spoke to someone helpful on the service reception, and they are going to look at it whilst I wait. They also piped up that they could order the part for me there and then,I told him to hold his horses on that one!! Thanks for your help on this as always, will let you know what happens, if I get there in one bit!!
Got back from a nice journey with the roof down and now have aching arms!! It was the pump according to the diagnostic thing at Mr T, we went for a little drive in it as well, not sure why, guess they wanted to make sure that I was telling the truth...Have been to Grays and picked up the 2nd hand one a bargain at £150 as opposed to the £757.00 + VAT which Mr T wanted for a new one. Being fitted on the 1st unless I can find someone to do it in the meantime, looks easy enough, 3 bolts and 3 clip in electronic parts, I dare say it needs bleeding through though.
I was talking the mechanic on the test drive and he said that in the past two weeks they have had two in with precat failure and blown engines and they were towing away an SMT which had gone completely up the wall, whenever the owner took their foot off the brake it was shooting off down the road.
I guess it is a bit too late to let you know about this one, right?
(http://i11.ebayimg.com/01/i/04/13/cc/f6_2.JPG) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10428&item=4553171452&rd=1)
Quote from: "Liz"an SMT which had gone completely up the wall, whenever the owner took their foot off the brake it was shooting off down the road.
Anyone want an SMT for use as a drag racing car? s:D :D s:D
Carlos, a little late, but tempted to buy it for a spare to be honest!!
Woo Hoo!! All fixed for the princely sum of £200. A bargain compared to £930.60 (with discount) from my local dealer!!!
Simon has got it at the moment and I have just spoken to him and he is threatening not to let me have it back s:evil: :evil: s:evil: . Thanks for the help on this guys, just looking out of the window waiting for it to arrive home so I can take it out, will try not to steer it like I have been and crash it!
Quote from: "Liz"Woo Hoo!! All fixed for the princely sum of £200. A bargain compared to £930.60 (with discount) from my local dealer!!!
only if you saw this....
m http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 71452&rd=1 (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=10428&item=4553171452&rd=1) m
Quote from: "spyderman"only if you saw this....
Repost, repost! He did a repost!!! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Oi Spyderman NO!
Oi Carlos NO!
Thats my bid and my pump is sounding very sick so I want it. Stop trying to push the price up!
s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
Paypal me £5 and I won't raise the price s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted:
Hmmm!
Wonder if it's worth getting for when mine packs up? s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Quote from: "RaGE"Oi Spyderman NO!
Oi Carlos NO!
Thats my bid and my pump is sounding very sick so I want it. Stop trying to push the price up!
s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D s:D :D s:D
s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol: s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Tem and Les you are very bad people s:cry: :cry: s:cry:
s:D :D s:D
RaGe, 10 Minutes to go, and still yours s:D :D s:D
Better keep your eye on it for any last minute blaggers s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
I changed my mind and am going to bid for it! s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: s:twisted: :twisted: s:twisted: Muhahahahah!
Transforms into a bat and furiously flies away!
3:30 left...
2:00 left...
1:00 left...
0:30 left...
0:05...
s:D :D s:D OK... You won! Congratulations on the bargain! s8) 8) s8)
Quote from: "so.simple"3:30 left...
2:00 left...
1:00 left...
0:30 left...
0:05...
s:D :D s:D OK... You won! Congratulations on the bargain! s8) 8) s8)
Phew I got it! Bit of a bargain I reckon.
Now do i wait for the old one to break or change it now? the old one can be quite noisy. Decisions decisions.
Well that was a bargain!!! I feel now that my pump must of been going for a while as the one on now feels so much better than before.
Quote from: "Liz"Well that was a bargain!!! I feel now that my pump must of been going for a while as the one on now feels so much better than before.
Nah, that's the arm muscles you built up when the pump was out.
s:D :D s:D
S
Liz
Did you pay 50 quid to get your pump fitted?
At that price it's probably worth paying to get it done rather than trying to do it myself. Has anyone changed there own, are there any write ups?
Rich.
Hey, where's my £5! s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
Quote from: "RaGE"Did you pay 50 quid to get your pump fitted?
Yes indeed I did...nice little garage that my husband goes to, and that included VAT and the new PS fluid...bargain!!
sorry to hijack the topic, but on the matter of the fluid, my level is a bit low. i have a bottle of fluid that has been opened for over a year. is it still good? or should i get a new one?
Nicolas
Over the course of three days my PS has gone from light to occasionally light to defunct.
Fluid is OK and power is still getting to the pump so I fear the worst. 'Percussive maintenance' hasn't done diddly s:D :D s:D
What triggers the PS warning light on the dash? Mine is going out as per normal on the start-up cycle s:? :? s:?
Any recommendations for flushing of the system and PS fluid? Quantity required?
Arrgh....wish I had seen your post before you bought the pump.....
I had the same problem going into last winter - PS pressure for two seconds on start-up, then nothing, and then the light comes on.
I took a small hammer, and while the pump was "spooling up" (I had a friend turn on the ignition for me) I gave it a couple of sharp taps with the hammer ON THE ALUMINIUM PUMP CASTING (not the soft steel can which surrounds the armature). This re-seats the motor shaft in the end bushings - a simple trick learned after years of rebuilding pumps and alternators.
It has worked flawlessly ever since. All I have done is change the fluid, you need special Toyota fluid, NOT ATF.....
I'll try and post the part number.
S.
Here is the original thread...
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19719 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=19719) l
Thanks for that. Through the power of the search I did see your comments before panic-buying, hence:
Quote from: "spit"I fear the worst. 'Percussive maintenance' hasn't done diddly s:D :D s:D
9 years old and 120000 miles is a good innings I spose. There are options in the BGB to open the thing up and service it, so I'll probably do that when time allows.
So, will MrT tell me how much PS fluid I need? Anything other than that used to flush the system?
*edit* Oh, and my earlier question too re: the P/S light. Mine is functioning as if there is nothing wrong at all s:? :? s:? v.odd.
Quote from: "Back in 2003, RaGE"Did you pay 50 quid to get your pump fitted?
At that price it's probably worth paying to get it done rather than trying to do it myself. Has anyone changed there own, are there any write ups?
I intended to do a full write-up with piccies tonight, but its literally no more than a 10-minute job if you don't have frunk plastics on, and it was done before I'd found the camera s:oops: :oops: s:oops: - if only it was always this easy s:lol: :lol: s:lol:
So, in summary ....
- Remove frunk plastics (if applicable).
- Disconnect the three electrical connectors from the pump.
- Remove the 2 12mm mounting bolts and single 12mm nut.
- Lift and tilt the assembly to avoid spillage during removal - there is enough flex in the hoses to allow for this.
- Using a 17mm open spanner, disconnect the outlet pipe. Wrap in cloth to catch seepage and tuck it to one side.
- Using a pair of pliers (aka SST), pinch and slide back the return hose clamp and pull off the hose.
- Remove the unit.
- Clean stuff up.
- Mount and secure the new unit.
- Slide on the return hose and clamp.
- Reconnect outlet pipe - holding the hard pipe horizontal to avoid twisting as you nip up the nipple!
- Reconnect the three electrical connections.
- Fill reservoir to full (cold) mark with new P/S fluid.
- Start the engine and turn and hold steering alternately between opposite locks in turn for a minute or so.
- Re-fill reservoir to desired level, checking to ensure no contamination or emulsification in the fluid.
- Check for leaks.
- Replace frunk plastics (if applicable).
And there y'go.
P/S fluid is available in 2litre containers from MrT at just over £22 s:shock: :shock: s:shock: Rough guesstimate is that the above procedure uses less than half of this. Note that you're likely to have to order this in - its not a stocked item.
Part number for the fluid is: 08886-01206
nice one Ste
also worth noting teh pump is fully rebuildable
though in most cases a secondhand pump is both easier and cheaper
Quote from: "markiii"also worth noting the pump is fully rebuildable
Yep. When I have a mo (ha!) I'm going to investigate the innards. I suspect the old one is a bit cacked up as Stewarty suggests..... it may be retrievable.
nice write up, not sure if my clifford is doing it, but having the P/S light flash up on start up, if i hold the clutch down and turn the key on too fast, the p/s light comes on and i have no steering, soon as I restart, it goes back to normal, no difference in driving though feels fine. This early signs?
Quote from: "Stewarty"It has worked flawlessly ever since. All I have done is change the fluid, you need special Toyota fluid, NOT ATF.....
I'll try and post the part number.
S.
Why do you need special Toyota steering fluid? Does that mean I have to drain the system of the Halfords stuff I've put in?! s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
???? s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
The book says Toyota EH Power steering fluid (EH stands for Electro-Hydraulic), so anything that is listed as meeting those specs is ok. It is green in colour, ATF / Dexron is red....
Thanks for getting back to me Stewarty
The halfords stuff was yellow and I can't find anywhere to stipulate it's either EH or ATF. Ah crap...it's in now, so I guess I'll find out if it's bost the seals or done any damage, in a few months time! s:? :? s:?
Hi all,
Think my pump has just gone, anyone got a spare floating around before I start trawling ebay or get the awful quote from the dealership?
Cheers,
Mark
Sold 2 of these recently,they are harder than they should be to get hold of as Supra/Honda etc owners are fitting these for track racing.
m http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599 (http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599) m
Quote from: "life of bryan"Sold 2 of these recently,they are harder than they should be to get hold of as Supra/Honda etc owners are fitting these for track racing.
m http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599 (http://k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=58599) m
Not good news for the discerning MR2R road user s:( :( s:(
Just heard that Chris may have one so fingers crossed! Will be trying the hammer method tomorrow.
You've got PM...
s:) :) s:)
I've got the same problem now s:( :( s:( turn key, P/S works for a few secs and then dies! resetting ECu isn't working...might try the hammer trick, then replace relay and if all else fails and complete pump replacement...will just replacing the Pump ECU work?
The pump will shut down if it detects an overcurrent or overheat condition. For the fault to appear after 10s, either the pump is drawing over 100A or the motor temperature sensor has exceeded 200C.
The same will happen if the ECU detects that the motor voltage is much less than the supply voltage, this is quite likely your fault, as it will trip after 10s. The fault could either be in the ECU (switch open circuit) or the motor (short).
Another fault is that the ECU will shut down the system if the control power is lost. It might be worth checking that there is voltage on pin 1 (Black/Red wire) of the ECU
It's not the speed signal as the car has to be moving (over 12 mph) for that to trip
If you short pins 4 and 13 on the diagnostic connector and then turn on the ignition, after 4 seconds, the PS light will flash to indicate the fault code. They are 2 digit. Count the short flashes for each digit, the medium sized gap is between digits and the longer gap is between codes. Lowest number code is output first
Hmmm cheers for the info, that's quite in depth!! Good news though...I topped the resevoir up to full and hit the pump a few times with a screwdriver, plugged it back in, reconnected battery and all of sudden works again...However I fear that it may not be long before it happens again and I really want to fix this problem 100%.
What your saying about power drops makes sense, a thought is that the damp weather has been playing with the connections! Where is the diagnostics port to short the pins and show the fault code because that will help when it next appears!
Thanks again, very helpful info there!
The diagnostic port is the usual one to the right of the steering column (UK car) for engine codes etc. Pin 16 is bottom right, pin 9 bottom left, pin 8 top right, pin 1 top left. Pin 4 is ground, so just shorting pin 13 to any earthed point should activate the display function.
Hi guy and gals,
This is my first post (probably of many!!). I have a similar problem, when I start the engine (usually on a cold or wet day) the PS works for about 20 secs then goes off and the PS light comes on, but if I drive for a few minutes with the PS off then turn the engine off and on again the power steering works fine for the rest of the journey.
I've also noticed that just before it goes off there seems to be a dip in power to the headlights because as soon as the PS stops working the lights get brighter. Could it be just a power supply problem/dodgy connector? Any help in basic form would be much appreciated s:D :D s:D
From what you say about cold weather and the voltage dip; and the previous posts on this subject, it looks as if the motor is exceeding it's current limit when the fluid is cold. The voltage dip might be tripping the ECU moitor on input voltage, which might be a dodgy connection, but generally at the sort of currents that the pump draws any bad conenction will burn out pretty quickly. Another cause of low voltage might be a battery that's on the way out.
Some of the other posts on this topic where the pump starts up after it's hit suggest that the brushes in the motor are worn out. if that's the case then it should be possible to repair the unit by replacing the brushes, at considerably less cost than than a whole new pump. Problems are that Toyota explicitly prohibits dismantling the motor & ECU assembly for some reason and that it might be difficult to source new brushes. There might be a business opportunity here for someone as there must be an increasing supply of dead pumps and demand for working ones over the next few years and the brushes should be fairly cheap.
Cool. thanks for the swift reply.
I'll check the connectors tonight. It could well be the battery as its got some white acid furring happening on the top and this would hint at why it happens in cold conditions.
So if the power steering can't pull enough voltage from the battery it will cut out? Is there an easy way to test this?
Cheers,
Dan.
Quote from: "markiii"also worth noting the pump is fully rebuildable
though in most cases a secondhand pump is both easier and cheaper
Do you know where to get parts to rebuild this pump?
I can't find a rebuilt pump but rebuilding it should not be too hard - with the parts.
I read the brushes are the weak point.
I'm in USA, by the way.
Thanks,
John
All the hydraulic pump parts can be bought from Toyota see the parts reference at m http://www.toyodiy.com/ (http://www.toyodiy.com/) m
These people might be able to supply the brushes, they're UK based, but I'm sure could post them:- m http://www.carbonbrush.co.uk/ (http://www.carbonbrush.co.uk/) m
Is it normal for the pump to make a whining noise if you move the steering wheel from side to side when the car is stationary? Also a bit of a grinding noise from the steering column at the same time?
Thanks
Steve
The wining noise is ... err, the usual noise the pumps make, some are quieter than others. Mine has made it for quite some time (touching wood) and so far so good. They normally quieten when you're not moving the wheel.
Grinding isn't quite normal, however it could be down to the UJ at the bottom of the steering collumn being dry under the plastics in the frunk. Take the plastics off, give it a bit of a clean and spray it with grease ... it should queiten down. There have been known to be one or two fail on high mileage cars, so just keep your eye on it if it gets noisy.
The whine seems to have increased recently - i have never noticed it before. PS fluid has been changed but it hasn't made any difference.
Quote from: "Stewarty".
I took a small hammer, and while the pump was "spooling up" (I had a friend turn on the ignition for me) I gave it a couple of sharp taps with the hammer ON THE ALUMINIUM PUMP CASTING (not the soft steel can which surrounds the armature). This re-seats the motor shaft in the end bushings - a simple trick learned after years of rebuilding pumps and alternators.
It has worked flawlessly ever since. .
S.
Our P/S light came on today on the way home from a local jaunt. After checking the electrical side (well, pulled a fuse and it seemed ok s:) :) s:) ) I used the hammer trick. Appears to have worked. I guess we'll find out next weekend on Stephs run s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Ive got a couple for sale. See my ad in commercial sales. s:) :) s:)
Hi,
I'm having similar problems with my 2003 Roadster, and would appreciate some guidance as to what I need to check to diagnose the problem - £1400 for a new pump is scary!
The car has been completely reliable for years, but after standing idle for a while due to a company car, it started to develop problems. I think it knows I'm thinking about selling it!
First to go was the battery, so a new one has been fitted. Before anyone jumps to conclusions, the alternator is fine, its just an 8 year old battery couldn't cope with the long periods of standing idle.
Now the power steering is playing up. Initially it suffered the "tank syndrome" described here, but this then eased and the steering is almost back to normal, but there is a sort of "sticky bit". when you turn left, all is fine for a while, but once you go past a certain steering angle (which seems repeatable) the steering tightens up, and then eventually "pops" going OK once past the stiff bit. A similar thing happens when turning right, but does not seem as pronounced. It's as though something repeatedly sticks, then frees itself. I have has no warning lights at all.
Does anyone know what this is, or what tests I need to do to identify the problem?
Thanks
Sue
Might be the lower steering knuckle. Park up, engine off . Look at front wheel while moving steering from side to side. Any play at all before the front wheel moves? Knuckle is probably shot.
Check this out. http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=32611
Sorry Les, I forgot about your dirty pictures! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Great example of "pic tells a thousand words. s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "dick2ski"Sorry Les, I forgot about your dirty pictures! s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Great example of "pic tells a thousand words. s:) :) s:)
That's ok D!cik s:wink: :wink: s:wink: the one symptom that never showed was having any play, in fact it was so tight the steering wouldn't self centre, another sure way of isolating the lower steering column U/J
Ive changed a few, and thrown a few out, and the steering wheel wiggle test worked each time. Im always trying to learn more about the car though and take note of your experience.
Did you jack up the front and operate the steering without the pump running to isolate the knuckle?
Quote from: "dick2ski"Ive changed a few, and thrown a few out, and the steering wheel wiggle test worked each time. I'm always trying to learn more about the car though and take note of your experience.
Did you jack up the front and operate the steering without the pump running to isolate the knuckle?
I did indeed............Best to check all possibilities on a steering fault, although once I saw the state of that bottom joint I had my suspicions and after a liberal spraying of WD40 the effect was like switching the power steering on again s:wink: :wink: s:wink:
Thanks Les. Im learning a bit more each day. Should have it cracked by....2030!
I was wondering when the power steering pump was serviced was the fluid changed, if so was the correct Toyota fluid used? Standard power steering fluid is the kiss of death to the electric power steering pump on our cars. The fluid is available from Toyota at about fifty usd per pint-but don't skimp. If whoever serviced your power steering used regular fluid, they could be on the hook for cost of replacement. good luck.
Thanks for the advice. Checked out the knuckle at the weekend, and sure enough it's very corroded. There was no freeplay to the wheels, just a stiffening up of the steering wheel.
A good soaking of WD40 has freed it up a lot, but there is still a little stiffness noticeable, so I think it's best to get a replacement or have it refurbished.
I had a look at Parkinsons from the link with the photos, it doesn't seem to suggest they do refurbs. Anyone know a suitable low cost solution in the Midlands?
PMd
Right then, other half's (her car) reports back that the steering has "got heavy!" i do not drive the '2 much - haven't for several weeks so nothing to compare it to. I know the PS can be a pain on these so with heavy heart checked it and it felt heavy to me and her.
i tried the steering with the engine running and off and definitely much heavier with the engine off - good news although could not hear the pump but it had to be working
(using the pics/guide i removed the 'frunk' cover, took all of 2 min's broke half the (brittle) clips so will replace them once we have re-mortgaged the house!)
the pump is running and fluid levels ok - the knuckle joint was in a right state - soaked that in WD40 for 10 mins - rotating it and spraying it at different angles to ensure good coverage and penetration.
steering now freed off and you can already tell the difference.
...used around half the can on that joint!
Would be interested in a refurbed/replacement knuckle joint if they are avaliable
BTW the advice on this thread was spot on, thanks to all those who have contributed s:) :) s:)
Hasn't MattPerformance got a batch of them ready to go?
Search results for "Steering joint" s:wink: :wink: s:wink: CLICKY (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/search.php?keywords=steering+joint&terms=all&author=&sc=1&sf=all&sr=posts&sk=t&sd=d&st=0&ch=300&t=0&submit=Search)
How much are the uj part out of curiosty? Think mine needs changing thought it would take at least 30k miles to get to that though. Dick do you have any non whinning pumps in atm
fixed pump with a full flush n bleed no more whine