Hello all.
Please please help me.
Purchased a y reg mr2 it's smoking when under load ( about 2.5k revs ).
I'm gutted but want to sort it.
Sooo I've been she hung the site and found loads of stuff it's all a little confusing.
Please help
1. Does anyone know of a company that rebuilds these correctly I don't want to pay and it's still crap.
2. If I was to do myself what do I need to alter ? Just a hone and new piston rings ? Or much more than that.
3. If I ordered parts from say Toyota would I get an updated version or just same stuff that's caused my original problem.
4. I have no idea where to start I can get engine out no problem if needed but what the hell do I do then !
Help me
First run a compression test..Where are you?
Yorkshire
Why run test? Could it be something else ? it's smoking like a 60 a day bloke
Just to see if you've got one bad cylinder. Helps narrow things down. Could be valve seals, bad bore, PCV valve....
I've done quite a few of these. Helps to know what you're dealing with before you take it out.
Ahh right I assumed piston ring due to what I have read.
So I should do compression test first ?
What's a PCV valve ? And also where are you based I'd love to pick your brain.
I'm gutted I had read of issues before I purchased but did not realise it's as common as it is for issues with a Toyota engine ! I'm astonished
Not the end of the world. Let's just see whether you want to rebuild this engine- or another one....
The PCV is on the cam cover (take the plastic cover off and you'll see it on the left as you look at the engine) it has a hose attached to it. IF it's completely useless it can let loads of oil into your intake.
14mm spanner gets it out. See if it is stuck open. Even if it's not it might still be suspect... but if it is wide open, it could be the problem.
The compression test lets you know if you've got a big problem with the bores. If they all read pretty much the same, then the engine is probably re-build-able. If not....
Valve seals have to be really bad to blow smoke on acceleration, they usually show up on the over-run.
I'm in Northants,
First, let's check the basics and go from there. Remember, the engine is only part of the car and it can always be dealt with!
Right pcv valve done I think mines after market as it was a 19 mm to get it out.
It's basically a one way valve yes ? . I pulled hose off with car running and it shut off straight away.
Stuck my finger over hose and runs anyway the pcv is loose and lets air run one way so I'm guessing fine ?
I was probably incorrect as to the spanner size (been a while since I took one out). Well not definitely 'fine' but probably NOT the source of the smoke. Does it smoke at 2,500 rpm with the hose off the valve but blocked?
Compression test next.
Compression test done
Pot 1 - 148 psi
Pot 2 - 130 psi
Pot 3 - 125 psi
Pot 4 - 130 psi
They went a little higher when cranking pot 1 was 170 when cranking but was at the scores above basically ( I'm not sure how good a seal my pressure gauge gets )
Also when I had spark plugs out for test I put brand new ones in. Others looked terrible it's still smoking but seems to be moving around on its tickover speed too know. It was doing that last. Ohhh but I cleaned the ICV and it went
Are those numbers with the engine hot or cold?
Did you also do a wet test?
Wet test ?
Engine was warm but not hot I could take plugs out and generally faff around
m http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/compr ... t-wet.html (http://www.freeasestudyguides.com/compression-test-wet.html) m
Looks to me like it's a candidate for a rebuild. You can 'wet test' it as Gary suggests, but there's no indication of one very bad bore. As you noticed, if you crank a few times the reading will come up. 170 is fair.... probably down to valve seals, but you'll know once it's opened up.
So rebuild on cards.
I know it on forum someplace but I've read so much it's sent me dizzy
1. What parts do I need to order
2. Who do I order from
3. What sort of money do we guess on parts ?
4. After this is done will it be good for future provided serviced ?
I sent you a Private message.
Did you purchase recently and from a dealer?
In which case you may be able to reject the car and get a refund.
Hello no I did not get from a dealer.
I'd read up on all engine issues and only paid 500 quid for it, kinda knowing I may get an issue.
Once I hopefully get engine sorted then I can bother to tidy rest of it up.
Have a good nose round the rear subframe as well, they have a tendency to rust and can be "overlooked" come MOT time
Yes aware of other issues one at a time lol.
Quote from: "ilovejapcrap"Hello no I did not get from a dealer.
I'd read up on all engine issues and only paid 500 quid for it, kinda knowing I may get an issue.
Once I hopefully get engine sorted then I can bother to tidy rest of it up.
Sounds a lot like mine. I paid £600 and had to rebuild the engine. By the time I had an MOT I think I'd spent another £600 ish. (Included a new cat and o2 sensor, which together were about £200).
Which was good value. It's a lot of fun.
Quote from: "ilovejapcrap"Yes aware of other issues one at a time lol.
My 600 quid bargain machine now stands me at over 4k
without an engine build! lol
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Quote from: "ilovejapcrap"Yes aware of other issues one at a time lol.
My 600 quid bargain machine now stands me at over 4k without an engine build! lol
s:D :D s:D
Lets not go down that path again. s:scared: :scared: s:scared:
Just an update for everyone,
After a conversation with Carolyn (thank you Carolyn). I am trying the fuel injectors for issues before going any further. We are not saying its going to resolve my issues but I do it would seem be showing some issues relating to this.
Watch this space
Just an update for everyone,
After a conversation with Carolyn (thank you Carolyn). I am trying the fuel injectors for issues before going any further. We are not saying its going to resolve my issues but I do it would seem be showing some issues relating to this.
Watch this space