My handbrake light came on yesterday and is basically on all the time now. Having a quick search on here it seems this is due to low brake fluid. Adding this to my leaking power steering fluid and my poor car needs some surgery!
I bought a set of HEL brake lines the other day, so hopefully that'll sort that...once I've worked out how to fit them and bleed the system...
Similar with the leaky steering pipes, got the new ones, pretty sure it's just a question of emptying reservoir, 'unbolt' old and 'bolt' in new, refill, burp by lock to lock while jacked up.
Before you replace the hoses, you must identify where the problem is coming from. You'll only have to bleed them again which in a word is LONG. Is the brake reservoir low? And do you get a loss of braking at all. Don't drive till you find this out
Thanks brettfield999,
I've not had any loss of braking, but you make a great deal of sense, I'll have a look first thing and see what I can find out...I know where the brake reservoir is which is a start!
As a relative newb to this stuff, something I learned yesterday when wondering where all my brake fluid was going (in my case, I left the bleed valve open)
Take the wheels off. Get someone to pump the brake pedal. You should not only be able to see the leak, but as it's at high pressure, chances are you'll hear it too!
Check the reservoir before you do anything. if theres nothing in it fill it up, pump the brake, if the level lowers you will have a leak.
Thanks The Other Stu and Tomaky,
I had a look at the reservoir and it was low, but only just below the MIN mark. Topped it up, but didn't get further as I was running out of time and also wanted to see if I could make any progress with the power steering pipes.
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3658_zpsccpxfehp.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3658_zpsccpxfehp.jpg.html)
Sure enough the leaking is pretty obvious. So I began to take pics so I could make a How To, but would you believe it I was stumped at the first hurdle...
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3664_zpsteg32glp_edit_1496185599213_zpsmzw7wadt.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3664_zpsteg32glp_edit_1496185599213_zpsmzw7wadt.jpg.html)
No matter what I tried, I couldn't release the spare wheel! So couldn't remove the box to access the pipes! Popped down to the local friendly garage and they're going to take a look at it on Friday. I wanted to do the job myself, but just don't have the time now.
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3660_zpso9awvv1f.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3660_zpso9awvv1f.jpg.html)
There's a fair amount of surface corrosion all around the frunk, so this summer I will pick a few days of dry weather and really tackle it.
OK, pleased to report that my new pipes are now fitted, but slightly ashamed that I farmed the job out. £60 +VAT and I supplied the fluid to be sure it was right. Still, peace of mind that they will now last, and I won't have to fork out for more of Mr T's finest brew. I will give them a coat of something in the near further...any suggestions?
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3697_zpse5ghvehi.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3697_zpse5ghvehi.jpg.html)
He took a look at the brakes too as I am losing quite a lot of fluid and it turns out to be my drivers side rear caliper. So on the hunt for a good second hand one...stopped in at Halfords for a small pot of red Hammerite smooth as I like what others have done to their calipers.
Apologies for my ignorant questions, I'm learning all the time... so having been topping up the brake fluid every other day, it's time to swap over the old leaking caliper with the new one...painted as you can see...
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3715_zpsvueeqgfo_edit_1497177319754_zpsfv1pfen9.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3715_zpsvueeqgfo_edit_1497177319754_zpsfv1pfen9.jpg.html)
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3705_zpsuezljj9v.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3705_zpsuezljj9v.jpg.html)
Problem is, the 12mm bolt I've pointed to below is rounded, so how do I get it off?
(http://i1057.photobucket.com/albums/t389/twinbeech1/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3716_zpsh6zwa0n5_edit_1497177363605_zpso74zvf4p_edit_1497177380861_zpsjqyqtfa2.jpg) (http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/twinbeech1/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DSC_3716_zpsh6zwa0n5_edit_1497177363605_zpso74zvf4p_edit_1497177380861_zpsjqyqtfa2.jpg.html)
Also, where do I get a replacement bolt from too? Halfords off the shelf job?
That's a very specific bolt, Toyota part, I'm afraid. The thread pitch, the length of the plain section and thread length are just not 'off the shelf'.
Thank you very much for such a quick reply Carolyn! Oh well, bolt it all back up and I'll order it in tomorrow...sniff sniff...
Quote from: "Carolyn"That's a very specific bolt, Toyota part, I'm afraid. The thread pitch, the length of the plain section and thread length are just not 'off the shelf'.
I cant see properly but isn't he pointing at the caliper slider bolts? If so once removed you can get a kit of ebay for a tenner asI have a set. I've been proved wrong before though lol
If I've read this correctly, then the garage said that it's the calliper that's leaking. If that's the case, then where has the fluid come from that's all over the brake line and surrounding area in this picture;
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170611/f57ba7867a7241486e9019f944edba9a.jpg)
Just realised - you still need to separate the two parts of the caliper. Cut the head off the bolt.
It's unlikely to have two leaks. If the only obvious dampness is around the pipes then that's the problem. If there's no dampness on the caliper then it's not faulty.
Cutting the head off the bolt isn't the solution as the bolt must be fully withdrawn to allow the caliper to be removed.
The rounded bolt isn't normally a major issue but you'll need a set of locking pliers (mole grips) at least 10" to undo the bolt.
The replacement bolt can only be sourced from the dealer. It's only the slider pins for the front calipers which are available as aftermarket.
Even if the caliper isn't the source of the leak you need to address the bottom bolt as the sliders really need lubrication at least annually as the rear calipers are notorious for being the route cause of braking and handbrake problems.
If the caliper has been neglected you'll also find that removing the handbrake cable pin will slow you down. This might help:-
l viewtopic.php?f=11&t=54813 (http://www.mr2roc.org/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=54813) l
Quote from: "gazza1286"It's unlikely to have two leaks. If the only obvious dampness is around the pipes then that's the problem. If there's no dampness on the caliper then it's not faulty.
Cutting the head off the bolt isn't the solution as the bolt must be fully withdrawn to allow the caliper to be removed.
The rounded bolt isn't normally a major issue but you'll need a set of locking pliers (mole grips) at least 10" to undo the bolt.
The replacement bolt can only be sourced from the dealer. It's only the slider pins for the front calipers which are available as aftermarket.
Even if the caliper isn't the source of the leak you need to address the bottom bolt as the sliders really need lubrication at least annually as the rear calipers are notorious for being the route cause of braking and handbrake problems.
If the entire caliper assembly is off the car (does not need to be separated to get it off), then you can slide it apart by cutting the head off the bolt.
Good point Carolyn. I've not had to go that route previously as the bolt has always been coaxed off will my mole grips. This leaves the car drivable until the replacement bolt comes through from the dealer.
You could also put some heat into the area around the threads (no rubber bits to fry in the vicinity) and the old mole grips might still do the job.
Edit: you might fry the rubber on the other side of the thread... easy to replace, though.
Thank you all for your replies. The other fluid is WD40 to prep the pipes for changing. I think my only option is to order the bolt in and go from there. Given that the power steering fluid was so expensive, what will I be looking at for this little part?
less than a tenner. I did buy one last year, don't quite remember.
Toyota Parts Direct on the old interweb. They're a bit weird to deal with as they always want your REG No., even when the part fits every car, but the dispatch is quick.
BTW - if you're planning to swap the flexi too (and the nut isn't yet rounded) buy a brake pipe spanner as you only get one chance.
m http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Brake-Pi ... Ciid%253A2 (http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Draper-Brake-Pipe-Spanner-Flare-Nut-Wrench-10-11-mm-31967-Braking-Tools-/371358459214?hash=item5676b0654e%3Ag%3Ao5kAAOSwkl5Xe5Vv&_trkparms=pageci%253A0dbb67a0-4ea7-11e7-bf26-74dbd1802d6b%257Cparentrq%253A974512f315c0ab644e179701fffa7633%257Ciid%253A2) m
Perfect, thank you. I'll take a look. Is there a part number or exact name I need?
I think I used 'rear brake caliper slider bolt'.
Just a quick update, I found the bolts at MR2-Ben at £1.73 for a single or £3.46 a pair so have just ordered two. Can't copy and paste the link on my phone, but easy enough to find. The site says it is suitable for all Mks and is a genuine part. Not sure how quick delivery will be, but hope it won't be too long as I don't like driving with the leak as it is.
Mole grips to remove the rounded bolt and they're less than £2 from Toyota, mine were proper buggered when I got the car
Slider bolt pair arrived today, very impressed with delivery time.
Just been reading up a little about how to go about this job, and beginning to wonder if I'm biting off more than I can chew? Bearing in mind I don't know much, but am pretty handy with practical stuff. Is removing and replacing the rear caliper straight forward or do I need to know special knacks of doing things and do I need any special tools?
Just don't want to get frustrated and lose the whole weekend and still not have a roadworthy car by Monday...
Sorry for all the questions.
Just to tidy this thread up I thought I'd conclude it by saying that I bottled doing the caliper replacement myself, I just wasn't confident that I could do it right, and on the braking system I didn't want to take any chances, so 3 hours of labour charge got me my new HEL pipes fitted all round and the new caliper on. A little more than I was expecting, but peace of mind at least. Only thing I'll say is that the brake bite is quite long into the pedal travel, I know I've been driving my wife's Kia that stamps full on within the first millimetre, but I'm just wondering if any simple adjustment could be done?
Might be worth bleeding the brakes perhaps? You might have an air bubble
Full on in the first millimetre is not what I'd call progressive brake control. These cars do have quite a bit of pedal travel. If it's stopping well and the pedal is firm (not sinking under gentle pressure) and not going to the floor, it's probably OK.
Otherwise, take it back and see what the mechanic thinks. You've paid for properly working brakes after all.
Thanks, I think it's probably fine, certainly firm when it reaches pressure, and since posting I've tried harder braking tests with no issues and no loss of pressure.