Son and I will be building a new engine for the MR-S over the winter and as we are turbo'd we are going to upgrade a few things during the process
Aim his to hit the high 200s
So chaps what would you suggest?
Post your shopping lists of your perfect build here
Please don't water this down with "Chuck a 2zz/V6/V8/V12/2JZ etc in it" comments. This is strictly a 1ZZ Build
Not sure on most things but a decent standalone ECU is high on my list for any project, if you have closed loop boost and knock control you can keep the engine in good shape and also avoid torque levels that will kill the gearbox, as well as make it nice and drivable.
Low compression pistons
Forged rods
ARP head studs
Uprated valve springs
Lighter flywheel
Uprated clutch
AEM EMS4
Pretty much what I will be doing at some point in the future, will also be upgrade to the SSC 3rd and 4th gear sets to improve the reliability of the gearbox - might get away on the stock box though.
Umm...I guess you'll be wanting some nice strong Conrods? Stand alone ECU....
Stage 3 Crowers?
Link Storm ECU
PWR chargecooler
Borg Warner EFR 6258
Cast manifold
Quality gauges
Forged rods and maybe pistons/gearbox upgrade if you are really going for it.
Stupink is getting high 200s with a piggy back and a gt2871.
Thanks chaps
Here's What we have already in the bits box/fitted to the car:-
Apexi PFC with FC Hako PC Link
Blitz SBC-iD Boost controller
Power enterprise turbo kit
Walbro Fuel Pump
2ZZ injectors
Aquamist Water Injection
Mishimoto Radiator
Oil cooler with thermostatic SW plate
Charge cooler system
Renault 5 GT Turbo alloy Intercooler
Couple of dump valves
The plan is to finish the conversion on the current engine and then build a motor that can take a bit more abuse over the winter then either build another complete car or swap the engine out
I wanted to go this route too but i could find a supplier of low comp pistons or uprated rods.
I'd be surprised if 2zz injectors were good enough for high 200bhp, even if you increase fuel pressure?
A big sump might not go amiss.
Stainless steel valves?
I reckon you could run standard compression if you have a good map and plenty of intercooling/water injection.
80°C thermostat
Ported head, especially on the exhaust side.
Accel Super ignition coils from MWR.
Quote from: "Bullit"I wanted to go this route too but i could find a supplier of low comp pistons or uprated rods.
MWR does them, have found a few UK suppliers of uprated rods, not really found 1zz pistons in the UK, guessing MWR gets custom pistons made for the 1zz, loads for the 2zz.
JE have a great reputation for affordable custom pistons. Also you can get pretty decent forged rods from chinese suppliers like maxspeedingrods.
Quote from: "lamcote"I'd be surprised if 2zz injectors were good enough for high 200bhp, even if you increase fuel pressure?
Agreed, I probably need to go somewhat bigger, however they are in the toybox as it were
Quote from: "Bullit"I wanted to go this route too but i could find a supplier of low comp pistons or uprated rods.
TCB an affiliate here will do you rods at a fair price.
Pistons are mega money made to order by Wiseco or you could get them made in the UK.
If you are staying in the 200s, I would only add rods, bolts and bigger injectors.
Quote from: "jonbill"JE have a great reputation for affordable custom pistons. Also you can get pretty decent forged rods from chinese suppliers like maxspeedingrods.
I've asked maxspeedingrods, they don't do the 1zz, they are custom order only for a minimum of 12 rods - group buy anyone?
Here are the rods I have found so far off the shelf:
m http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods (http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods) m
Although I think I might have to go to MWR for the pistons, not sure how much the import duty will be, they do them in 79.5mm, 82mm or 82.5mm in the 8.8:1 compression ratio.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... 81-79-5mm/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/wiseco-piston-set-toyota-1zz-8-81-79-5mm/) m
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "jonbill"JE have a great reputation for affordable custom pistons. Also you can get pretty decent forged rods from chinese suppliers like maxspeedingrods.
I've asked maxspeedingrods, they don't do the 1zz, they are custom order only for a minimum of 12 rods - group buy anyone?
Here are the rods I have found so far off the shelf:
m http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods (http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods) m
Although I think I might have to go to MWR for the pistons, not sure how much the import duty will be, they do them in 79.5mm, 82mm or 82.5mm in the 8.8:1 compression ratio.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... 81-79-5mm/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/wiseco-piston-set-toyota-1zz-8-81-79-5mm/) m
For rods contact TCB I got a great deal.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "jonbill"JE have a great reputation for affordable custom pistons. Also you can get pretty decent forged rods from chinese suppliers like maxspeedingrods.
I've asked maxspeedingrods, they don't do the 1zz, they are custom order only for a minimum of 12 rods - group buy anyone?
Here are the rods I have found so far off the shelf:
m http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods (http://molnarrods.com/toyota-1zz-connecting-rods) m
Although I think I might have to go to MWR for the pistons, not sure how much the import duty will be, they do them in 79.5mm, 82mm or 82.5mm in the 8.8:1 compression ratio.
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... 81-79-5mm/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/wiseco-piston-set-toyota-1zz-8-81-79-5mm/) m
For rods contact TCB I got a great deal.
I have PMed them - will see what they come back with, currently costing up all the parts for my build.
There's these as well
m https://www.zrp-rods.com/shop/toyota-1- ... ting-rods/ (https://www.zrp-rods.com/shop/toyota-1-8l-1zz-connecting-rods/) m
Or you could risk these ones
m https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 18273.html (https://www.aliexpress.com/store/product/1zz-fe-3zzfe-forged-billet-4340-connecting-rods-for-tuning-engine-toyota-avensis-vvt-i-1/722508_2033318273.html) m
ZRP ones are tried and tested from friends of mine who did stupid numbers with their cars so they come highly recommended. Any billet/forged connecting rods from a reputable brand should be good for reliability at that setup I would think s:) :) s:)
I have ordered one of the Ali express ones for evaluation purposes. But the ZRP ones do look good value as there is no worries about import duty like the US ones
Would it not be more sensible to put in a 2zz rather than a built 1zz then modify your manifold (or replace/custom, whatever) possibly turbo too, I think rbuckingham has the same turbo as the pe kit with nissan gtr35 internals, that should see your power goals. Just a guess, I've done zero research into this, just remember seeing 1zz vs 2zz rods somewhere and the 2zz were a hell of a lot beefier.
Quote from: "maybeturbo"Would it not be more sensible to put in a 2zz rather than a built 1zz then modify your manifold (or replace/custom, whatever) possibly turbo too, I think rbuckingham has the same turbo as the pe kit with nissan gtr35 internals, that should see your power goals. Just a guess, I've done zero research into this, just remember seeing 1zz vs 2zz rods somewhere and the 2zz were a hell of a lot beefier.
Read what the man said in the first post.
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Son and I will be building a new engine for the MR-S over the winter and as we are turbo'd we are going to upgrade a few things during the process
Please don't water this down with "Chuck a 2zz/V6/V8/V12/2JZ etc in it" comments. This is strictly a 1ZZ Build
I did see that but I'm suggesting still staying with the same turbo kit (sort of) His car has the same turbo kit as mine you see.
Having driven a 2ZZ Celica I have to admit I'm not a fan of it, hence sticking with the 1ZZ and turbo
Maybe someone with a supercharged or turboed 2zz could chime in, I'd imagine it's a different kettle of fish to a standard 190 celica. I did get a quick go in a corolla compressor when they first came out on a test drive and it transformed the car from a revvy hatchback to a really strong torque curve that also screams. Was fun, not really quick though but the rolla must be a lot heavier.
Just thought, the apexi pfc must be able to set the lift point so with a turbo that spools from 1300rpm and the lift much lower it would be way different.
Each to their own though, good luck with it.
2zz rods are much stronger than 1zz.
2zz is a great engine and will make great bhp but no torque.
For example 350bhp but only 250 ft-lb with a rotrex on stock internals.
I was going to build a forged 1zz until the V6 came up.
I realised I would need to do a gearbox swap at some stage if I wanted more than 250 ft-lb so I bought a car that already had one.
And got a proper soundtrack thrown in.
Back on topic now.
TCB have come back with a good price for forged rods, might still have to get my pistons from MWR as they bought in huge bulk so the price is much lower.
Quote from: "m1tch"TCB have come back with a good price for forged rods, might still have to get my pistons from MWR as they bought in huge bulk so the price is much lower.
Exactly what I was going to do.
Shame about import duty vat and shipping.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"TCB have come back with a good price for forged rods, might still have to get my pistons from MWR as they bought in huge bulk so the price is much lower.
Exactly what I was going to do.
Shame about import duty vat and shipping.
Indeed, although TCB is seeing what price they can get them for in the UK from Wiesco vs the duty and VAT from the states, might actually be cheaper from the states, loads of 2zz parts, the 1zz seems slightly more unloved.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"TCB have come back with a good price for forged rods, might still have to get my pistons from MWR as they bought in huge bulk so the price is much lower.
Exactly what I was going to do.
Shame about import duty vat and shipping.
Indeed, although TCB is seeing what price they can get them for in the UK from Wiesco vs the duty and VAT from the states, might actually be cheaper from the states, loads of 2zz parts, the 1zz seems slightly more unloved.
The price TCB got me from Wiseco was more than getting them from MWR. Thats with tax and shipping.
What price was that Scott if you don't mind sharing?
Also worth putting forward is to bore out to 82mm which will give you an almost 2 litre engine but would require Darton sleeves and the machine work that is required, I will be keeping the stock bore (or close to) at keep it at 79.5mm hone.
Quote from: "m1tch"Also worth putting forward is to bore out to 82mm which will give you an almost 2 litre engine but would require Darton sleeves and the machine work that is required, I will be keeping the stock bore (or close to) at keep it at 79.5mm hone.
Not sure it's worth sleeving when going FI naturally aspirated for sure.
Found this on evilbay
m http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132256886038 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132256886038) m
tempting
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"Also worth putting forward is to bore out to 82mm which will give you an almost 2 litre engine but would require Darton sleeves and the machine work that is required, I will be keeping the stock bore (or close to) at keep it at 79.5mm hone.
Not sure it's worth sleeving when going FI naturally aspirated for sure.
I didn't think that the OEM bores were strong enough when bored out to 82mm - just going on what MWR is suggesting.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"Also worth putting forward is to bore out to 82mm which will give you an almost 2 litre engine but would require Darton sleeves and the machine work that is required, I will be keeping the stock bore (or close to) at keep it at 79.5mm hone.
Not sure it's worth sleeving when going FI naturally aspirated for sure.
I didn't think that the OEM bores were strong enough when bored out to 82mm - just going on what MWR is suggesting.
What mean to say is that I am not sure you need the extra displacement when going FI.
With forged internals you can boost the hell out of it anyway so why pay out for an extra 0.2L.
It's like k20 honda engines when they do NA builds they can go all the way to 2.7 but when they do FI builds then generally only go 2.4. The k20 is way stronger than 1zz.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "1979scotte"Not sure it's worth sleeving when going FI naturally aspirated for sure.
I didn't think that the OEM bores were strong enough when bored out to 82mm - just going on what MWR is suggesting.
What mean to say is that I am not sure you need the extra displacement when going FI.
With forged internals you can boost the hell out of it anyway so why pay out for an extra 0.2L.
It's like k20 honda engines when they do NA builds they can go all the way to 2.7 but when they do FI builds then generally only go 2.4. The k20 is way stronger than 1zz.
Ah, that makes more sense, yeah I don't really plan to bore the engine out as it will be FI so will aim for the 79.5mm bore size, I did look into the K swap but wanted to keep it Toyota plus it will make things simpler, interestingly the VW aircooled pistons are 79.5mm as are the GSXR1100 pistons and overbore MX5 1.6 pistons however I doubt the deck height is the same!
Quote from: "m1tch"I did look into the K swap but wanted to keep it Toyota plus it will make things simpler
Leave the K swap for a racecar, it requires a lot more than what one actually thinks. It's complicated, needs cutting and re-welding firewalls and the torsional vibrations make it uncomfortable for a daily drive.
I'll be doing one but I don't intend to use that car anywhere else other than tracks.
1ZZ turbo is a good balance for a daily drive once rebuilt properly s:) :) s:)
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "m1tch"I did look into the K swap but wanted to keep it Toyota plus it will make things simpler
Leave the K swap for a racecar, it requires a lot more than what one actually thinks. It's complicated, needs cutting and re-welding firewalls and the torsional vibrations make it uncomfortable for a daily drive.
I'll be doing one but I don't intend to use that car anywhere else other than tracks.
1ZZ turbo is a good balance for a daily drive once rebuilt properly s:) :) s:)
That is what I figured, aim for my project would be to get extra power reliability, its good to know that you can still run over 200bhp on stock internals - as the saying goes - Cheap, Reliable, Powerful (chose 2).
Will be starting to collect parts probably at the end of the year start of next, need to source a donor engine and box after I have space in the garage.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "m1tch"I did look into the K swap but wanted to keep it Toyota plus it will make things simpler
Leave the K swap for a racecar, it requires a lot more than what one actually thinks. It's complicated, needs cutting and re-welding firewalls and the torsional vibrations make it uncomfortable for a daily drive.
I'll be doing one but I don't intend to use that car anywhere else other than tracks.
1ZZ turbo is a good balance for a daily drive once rebuilt properly s:) :) s:)
That is what I figured, aim for my project would be to get extra power reliability, its good to know that you can still run over 200bhp on stock internals - as the saying goes - Cheap, Reliable, Powerful (chose 2).
Will be starting to collect parts probably at the end of the year start of next, need to source a donor engine and box after I have space in the garage.
You can have my 5speed for free, but there's no Torsen in there
Quote from: "manos3003"Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "manos3003"Leave the K swap for a racecar, it requires a lot more than what one actually thinks. It's complicated, needs cutting and re-welding firewalls and the torsional vibrations make it uncomfortable for a daily drive.
I'll be doing one but I don't intend to use that car anywhere else other than tracks.
1ZZ turbo is a good balance for a daily drive once rebuilt properly s:) :) s:)
That is what I figured, aim for my project would be to get extra power reliability, its good to know that you can still run over 200bhp on stock internals - as the saying goes - Cheap, Reliable, Powerful (chose 2).
Will be starting to collect parts probably at the end of the year start of next, need to source a donor engine and box after I have space in the garage.
You can have my 5speed for free, but there's no Torsen in there
Its tempting, however I will be looking to run a C64 gearbox as I would need to drop in the SSC/JUBA 3rd and 4th gears so will be going with a 6 speed box.
I would also be interested in the source of forged parts this side of the pond , seems MWR have it all covered ...
But as a question to forging the 1zz , the gearbox restricts us with the torque and there's the oil issue aswell ...... is it really worth forging ??
Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"I would also be interested in the source of forged parts this side of the pond , seems MWR have it all covered ...
But as a question to forging the 1zz , the gearbox restricts us with the torque and there's the oil issue aswell ...... is it really worth forging ??
I decided it wasn't worth it for me as I wanted bags of torque so went for a V6 and will be adding a supercharger.
You can strengthen the box with hardened gears or fit an e153 or maybe an s54.
Each to there own.
Tommyzoom has his built NA 1zz which must have cost a packet for 190bhp when a couple of grand on a turbo would have got you more for less.
Sometimes is about being different or the working it all out.
The cheapest way to big power imho is 2zz swap and forced induction but that's not for me.
If we can get 250ish BHP on stock internals , I'm struggling to see the upside of forging... If we're restricted by the gearbox and oil problems , its all a personal choice as you say , how many stock 1zz engines could you have to equal a fully built 1zz and still worry about the oil problems.....
I only ask because im in the same position and I just don't know , maybe a swap is the only way .......
Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"If we can get 250ish BHP on stock internals , I'm struggling to see the upside of forging... If we're restricted by the gearbox and oil problems , its all a personal choice as you say , how many stock 1zz engines could you have to equal a fully built 1zz and still worry about the oil problems.....
I only ask because I'm in the same position and I just don't know , maybe a swap is the only way .......
Tbh not really sure what oil problems you are worried about.
With revised 06 pistons and twice yearly oil change oil won't be a problem.
There are so many 1zz out there it was a massively popular engine it's only in the 2 with precats that it really becomes a problem.
Gearbox giving up at 250 ft-lb isn't ideal but you could limit boost at peak torque to keep it under control whilst allowing a lot of bhp at the top end.
I had the rods I was going to do it but changed my mind.
Would like to know how stupink is getting on he was making 290bhp on stock internals with gt2871 and piggyback.
Just thinking again about the 79.5mm vs 82mm vs 82.5mm, I think the pistons are the same price for the aftermarket sizes meaning there isn't an extra cost to go with a slightly larger piston as the block would need to be bored and honed out to any of the sizes.
The extra displacement would help with NA power but a turbo engine off boost is NA - also a turbo engine with lower compression ratio pistons off boost would make less power than an NA engine - perhaps its worth running with 82mm pistons for a slight increase in displacement? MWR does state that you need to sleeve the block for the 82mm and 82.5mm engines but I am sure that the stock sleeves should be ok?
Just a thought.
You wouldn't need the sleeves for 79.5mm bore but you definitely will for 82 or 82.5mm so that is a significant cost difference.
Quote from: "m1tch"Just thinking again about the 79.5mm vs 82mm vs 82.5mm, I think the pistons are the same price for the aftermarket sizes meaning there isn't an extra cost to go with a slightly larger piston as the block would need to be bored and honed out to any of the sizes.
The extra displacement would help with NA power but a turbo engine off boost is NA - also a turbo engine with lower compression ratio pistons off boost would make less power than an NA engine - perhaps its worth running with 82mm pistons for a slight increase in displacement? MWR does state that you need to sleeve the block for the 82mm and 82.5mm engines but I am sure that the stock sleeves should be ok?
Just a thought.
You'll need darton sleeves for the widest pistons and that's expensive.
If you are worried about performance off boost you could keep stock compression ratio perhaps add water methanol injection.
Some of the latest turbos from Garrett and Borg Warner spool really early and STILL make big power.
Thanks guys, will be going with 79.5mm pistons it seems, already have an AEM meth injection kit sitting in the garage, will also look into decent boost controllers as I know that my old Apexi AVC-R you could change the solenoid gain by gear, think some standalone ECUs have boost control built in so will check what I have.
Det3 and emange ultimate are 2 piggybacks that will do boost control with the appropriate solenoid.
Quote from: "1979scotte"Det3 and emange ultimate are 2 piggybacks that will do boost control with the appropriate solenoid.
Will probably be going AEM EMS 4 standalone so it should have boost control built it, should also be able to have an output for the meth injection.
I'm going for the Adaptronic and selling my Apexi setup
m http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/e440d/ (http://www.adaptronic.com.au/product/e440d/) m
Why have you chosen that one?
Quote from: "lamcote"Why have you chosen that one?
A tuner friend of mine knows these ECUs inside out. Granted its on the RX7/8 but he's keen to branch out and we have plans to build a Rotary 2 in the future.
Also he will be making up a Plug and play loom that will be available for sale which increases the options for others
Sounds good. Is it standalone?
Quote from: "lamcote"Sounds good. Is it standalone?
It's a standalone and is quite fully featured.
Price isn't bad either.
It's something worth considering.
This and the ECU master EMU Black offer good value over Link Storm or Fury ECU.
Also if it comes with a 1zz plug and play harness I think that will be a first for a standalone.
No I don't count the Apexi PFC.
Quote from: "lamcote"Sounds good. Is it standalone?
From an engine management point of view yes... however in practice to make life easier it would still require the stock ECU to run the dash
Quote from: "Essex2Visuvesi"Quote from: "lamcote"Sounds good. Is it standalone?
From an engine management point of view yes... however in practice to make life easier it would still require the stock ECU to run the dash
Why?
Pretty sure they have can bus.
Isn't that what the dash runs off.
So whats the list of parts required for a forged 1zz build....?
How about listing parts and where we can get them for people looking to do this ....?
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... ta-1zz-fe/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-complete-built-engine-toyota-1zz-fe/) m
This is what I've been looking at but costs a fortune to get it here and plus tax ....
Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"So whats the list of parts required for a forged 1zz build....?
How about listing parts and where we can get them for people looking to do this ....?
m https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/prod ... ta-1zz-fe/ (https://www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/mwr-complete-built-engine-toyota-1zz-fe/) m
This is what I've been looking at but costs a fortune to get it here and plus tax ....
Forged rods and pistons is all you really need.
Rods you can get from Paul @TCB.
Pistons MWR is the cheapest I have seen even taking tax and shipping into account.
+1 on getting rods from TCB, also have pricing on the 1zz pistons as well, not quite as cheap as MWR but no hidden import duty etc.
Quote from: "m1tch"+1 on getting rods from TCB, also have pricing on the 1zz pistons as well, not quite as cheap as MWR but no hidden import duty etc.
Import duty is something like 20% vat plus 5% duty. They even charge you vat on the shipping robbing bar stewards.
I have been in touch with Paul , very helpful , got my shopping list now ,
you never stop spending money on these cars ....... s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"I have been in touch with Paul , very helpful , got my shopping list now ,
you never stop spending money on these cars ....... s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
But then again its a good car to spend money on, I chose the mk3 MR2 as its got a low stock weight, good handling and looks great, would rather spend £xxx on the MR2 than a 1.2 Corsa.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "paul.mcgrath"I have been in touch with Paul , very helpful , got my shopping list now ,
you never stop spending money on these cars ....... s:shock: :shock: s:shock:
But then again its a good car to spend money on, I chose the mk3 MR2 as its got a low stock weight, good handling and looks great, would rather spend £xxx on the MR2 than a 1.2 Corsa.
Why mod an MR2? I couldn't live day to day with an Elise and I would be scared of breaking a Boxster.
I know a guy that has a vxr corsa. I think it has maybe 400bhp certainly more than 300.
What is the point as it FWD I can't believe it can handle that power.
Suppose it would be good at the strip.
Not my cup of tea.
+1 as people say for our car , I'm sure we could all buy an Elise exige etc etc .....
I want/like something "unique" with our own personal angle , I never stop spending money on our cars , cause I want to s:D :D s:D
For me, my car absolutely must be rwd, and to have a rwd car under 1000kg is pretty rare and special, especially mid engined and with a great factory lsd. When you have that package with over 200hp you've basically got yourself a mini alfa 4c for about 5 grand. An absolute bargain if you ask me.
Back on topic- how about an apexi avcr instead of the blitz one you mention, unless you get similar functions from that unit (im not familiar with it) The ability to adjust the boost pressure for every individual gear and even by rpm in each gear will no doubt save your gearbox when your shooting for more power. I've got one on the shelf, never had the time to fit it though, had one in every one of my previous boosted cars.
Quote from: "maybeturbo"Back on topic- how about an apexi avcr instead of the blitz one you mention, unless you get similar functions from that unit (I'm not familiar with it) The ability to adjust the boost pressure for every individual gear and even by rpm in each gear will no doubt save your gearbox when your shooting for more power. I've got one on the shelf, never had the time to fit it though, had one in every one of my previous boosted cars.
The SBC iD is essentially the same as the AVC-R
m http://www.mkivsupraownersclub.com/Reso ... manual.pdf (http://www.mkivsupraownersclub.com/Resources/Manuals/Blitz%20SBC%20i-D%20manual.pdf) m
I have the optional Power meter as well which increases functionality
m http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/ ... er_i-d.pdf (http://www.supracentral.com/foundation/files/5013/3004/1213/powermeter_i-d.pdf) m
That's cool. I recently coated my power enterprise mls gaskets with a special copper spray and replaced all the studs and nuts with stainless aerotight ones, seem to be really good quality, I'd definitely recommend them.
I've done the same with mine... all the studs/bols are now stainless and all nuts are aerotight with spring washers
What about head porting? I might look to just clean the current ports up a bit and gasket match and nothing more, the turbo will be forcing the air into the engine so although there are gains to be had with porting its not quite as important as an NA build. Saying that I know that if the head doesn't flow well and there are restrictions the turbo will have to work harder to flow the same air - have read that for a turbo build its best to build the best NA engine (in terms of reducing restrictions) and then bolt a turbo to it.
Also, the 1zz head isn't a Yamaha head so it can be improved, if we were talking about a 2zz I would probably say to leave the head alone, but I know there will be gains on a 1zz head.
I think we would also need to discuss the inlet manifold as well as I am not sure what the stock plastic ones are rated to!
Port matching may be worthwhile as the turbo manifold is going to be a bit bigger than the ports in the head but going to town on a head professionally costs so much money and in real world terms you'll probably only notice a quicker spool and a bit more response, that pe turbo spools so early anyway, around 1300 rpm it begins to make positive pressure and I believe it's only capable of under 10psi effectively. I bet you'd get more effect by switching the cat in and out every mot and save a lot of money too.