Got a pair of budweg calipers on the way from Brakes International - fed up of crap handbrake and it being difficult to pull.
Just wondering if I still need to wind in the piston and back it out with the new ones, or if I can just install them as they come, bleed them, then pump several times and reattach the handbrake (then follow the rest of the procedure to setup?)
They should come fully wound in. If your fitting new pads that's where they need to be so fit straight on. If your fitting to
Some part worn pads I'd wind them out slightly so the piston sits against the pad or close to
You'll still want to do 1/4 - 1/2 a turn back out on new pads or you'll find the handbrake still won't work properly.
Couple mote tips... though you've probably got it well figured out:
Make sure the nipple on the back of the inside pad locates in the slot in the face of the piston.
Check that your handbrake cables move freely and take the opportunity to dribble a little light machine oil (3-in-1) down the cable ends. Don't use engine oil.
Thanks folks. May be back for more advice as to the recommended routine for bleeding. I've bought new washers for the banjo bolts and a one man bleed kit.
I've had the calipers off plenty of times to try and sort the handbrake but never had the brake hose off. Pads were new 1000 miles ago and the cables replaced in Jan so hoping they haven't stretched. The o/s/r in particular has a very stiff handbrake arm on the caliper
Seen all sorts on the net about keeping the brake pedal held down or putting cling film over the reservoir. Was planning to have the new caliper to hand, then the hose will only be off a caliper for a matter of minutes
I'm sure I'm over-thinking it, but does this look right:
1) Slacken handbrake at console
2) Undo handbrake cables at calipers
3) Slacken caliper slider bolt from carrier
4) Undo reservoir cap, Wind in piston on old caliper
5) Remove pads
6) Remove caliper and rest on paint pot or similar
7) Install new caliper onto carrier
s8) 8) s8) Disconnect hose and remove old washers
9) Connect hose to new caliper
10) Add pads
11) Apply ceratec to moving parts and reinstall bolts
12) Bleed
13) Switch engine on and pump brakes ~20 times to settle the pads against the disc
14) Reconnect handbrake cables and follow the MR2 routine
15) Go for a drive > adjust handbrake at console end if necessary
Nip down to your friendly local parts shop and buy Some brake hose pliers. Then you can clamp the hose off and minimise the fluid loss. If you do one side at a time, you only need one pair of pliers.... No Vice Grips!! I wouldn't bother winding the old caliper back. just be ready to top up the reservoir. Another tip: slacken the banjo bolt (the one that holds the hose to the caliper) before you take the caliper off. That way, the caliper is being held while you do it.
Skip 1. Not sure why that'd be necessary.
4. Can't wind in the piston with pads in s:) :) s:) no need for it
6. Just clamp the caliper as Carolyn said, undo the hose and remove the caliper. No need to have that dangling about
7. Install new caliper and brake hose. Lubricate slider bolt. Unclamp and check for leaks
11. Ceratec to back of pads, add pads, bolt down caliper. Reattach handbrake (handbrake off!)
12. Pump brakes and bleed
I remember this being a very quick and easy process last time I did it when my caliper bolt seized and i just opted for replacing the whole damn lot.
One-man bleed kit to me is a glass jar, a bottle of fresh fluid and a clear plastic hose to fit the bleed nipple. Hose on nipple, other end in jar. Fill jar until covers end of hose. Undo nipple. Pump brakes. Step out of car. Close nipple. Rinse and repeat.
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It's important to have no tension on the handbrake system when you pump the brakes... or the pistons might not push out enough.
Maybe my cable is slack then s:) :) s:) I just take off the handbrake and there's no tension on it. Know this for sure as I can just take it off the caliper and it stays put
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Thanks folks, much appreciated. Any need to open the reservoir when clamping the pipe, or literally just clamp it and get to work with the cap still on?
Seems like there's a million and one ways to stop the flow (clamp, leaving the brake pedal depressed, putting cling film over the reservoir etc!)
Just get to work. You'll need to top up after bleeding, (that's a bit obvious...)
Quote from: "Carolyn"Just get to work. You'll need to top up after bleeding, (that's a bit obvious...)
Hahaha
Translate: less typing, more spannering.
If clamped, no need to take the cap off.. But you will need to take the cap off when the new caliper is on and you need to push the piston back... Obviously
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Well as said not a difficult job. Unfortunately hasn't made a blind bit of difference to the driver's side.
The nearside caliper was in good nick and with it off the car, if you operate the arm by hand, the piston advances out and keeps coming out.
The offside one that came off the car clearly hadn't auto adjusted in a long time. Perhaps not too surprisingly when I got the car last year, turned out that cable was doing nothing.
The new one - I'm not convinced the piston is coming out and staying out when you pull the arm, but it's so damn stiff it's hard to tell.
Unfortunately my offside cable (both sides new in Jan) has a crack in the protective covering. Doused it in 3 in 1 and it seems to pull through happily enough from both sides.
All I can think of now is to try and drive it for a bit,
and possibly replace the short handbrake cable / equaliser bar.
Either way, think the car is one step closer to the exit door.
I've done umpteen rewind / unwind tricks.
Quote from: "Bossworld"Thanks folks, much appreciated. Any need to open the reservoir when clamping the pipe, or literally just clamp it and get to work with the cap still on?
Seems like there's a million and one ways to stop the flow (clamp, leaving the brake pedal depressed, putting cling film over the reservoir etc!)
Anyone have any advice for a car fitted with braided hoses? Obviously clamping is a bit of an issue, and I don't fancy spilling my nearly new brake fluid all over the shop s:( :( s:(
Quote from: "Bossworld"Well as said not a difficult job. Unfortunately hasn't made a blind bit of difference to the driver's side.
The nearside caliper was in good nick and with it off the car, if you operate the arm by hand, the piston advances out and keeps coming out.
The offside one that came off the car clearly hadn't auto adjusted in a long time. Perhaps not too surprisingly when I got the car last year, turned out that cable was doing nothing.
The new one - I'm not convinced the piston is coming out and staying out when you pull the arm, but it's so damn stiff it's hard to tell.
Unfortunately my offside cable (both sides new in Jan) has a crack in the protective covering. Doused it in 3 in 1 and it seems to pull through happily enough from both sides.
All I can think of now is to try and drive it for a bit,
and possibly replace the short handbrake cable / equaliser bar.
Either way, think the car is one step closer to the exit door.
I've done umpteen rewind / unwind tricks.
When you say 'new', is it reconditioned? It just should not be that stiff and it sounds like the piston is sticking in its seals. Have a word with your supplier?
Quote from: "ad_car_08"Quote from: "Bossworld"Thanks folks, much appreciated. Any need to open the reservoir when clamping the pipe, or literally just clamp it and get to work with the cap still on?
Seems like there's a million and one ways to stop the flow (clamp, leaving the brake pedal depressed, putting cling film over the reservoir etc!)
Anyone have any advice for a car fitted with braided hoses? Obviously clamping is a bit of an issue, and I don't fancy spilling my nearly new brake fluid all over the shop s:( :( s:(
Remove brake fluid cap, add a couple of layers of cling film, replace cap.
Remove bolt from caliper - a small amount of fluid will come out then the flow will stop. If desired, put cling film over the end of the hose and a couple of elastic bands around it while you work on it.
Since this post I decided I needed to bleed everything a second time. Turned out the bleed nipples on the fronts were rounded, the nearside much worse than the other. Managed to get it off after removing the nearside caliper, hence my new found confidence.
Carolyn - calipers were refurbs from Brakes International. Having driven the car a few times since all this has been done, it does now seem to hold fine. I think the driver's side cable was slightly damaged by the crack in the casing so it was a bit stiffer on that side but hopefully the 3 in 1 has worked its way down.
Could probably do with replacing the cables yet again but sod that unless it fails an MOT.
If anyone's interested, the booklet that comes with the Brakes Int refurbs does match the advice on here about winding the piston back out.