Hi,
I've just had to install a new radiator, bought of eBay for £37 delivered. Plus coolant from local auto factors.
I've had a look at posts on here about bleed vales etc, I've found two - one on the top of the new radiator, on the driver's side. One on the heater pipes.
I had a few problems during filling up - I thought it would be a good idea to use the butterfly type bleed valve from the old rad on the new - but this didn't actually fit and took me ages to realise was a problem.
Anyway, x amount of coolant later, I sort that. Now - I can run the car, and the engine temp gets to around half way - but I get no hot air from the heaters. I've tried fiddling from hot to cold, leaving the car alone for an hour or so, and jacking up the back of the car.
Has anyone got anything to add that I may have missed - even if it's simple stuff that should be obvious - I just don't want to screw up the engine.
Thanks!
Also, I've not risked running it for too long to see if the temp gauge goes higher than half way, and I can squash the big fat pipes by hand at the bottom of the radiator - can you do this normally? Or is it a symptom of an air lock?
You've actually done things a lot better than you think.
The butterfly screw does indeed need to be swapped over. It does fit. But only with a new (slightly thicker) rubber o-ring.
I'm assuming you bled the system correctly via the two tubes; one at the bulkhead and one attached to the top left bleed valve of the radiator. Then both taped/tied to the bonnet.
Massaging the big pipes has been the best way for me to make sure the air is pushed out. Keep massaging until you hear sloshing but no air. It's a clear change in the noise.
Top up reservoir as required. Run the car with heat on full and massage pipes. Check reservoir and level in the bleed tubes. Eventually you reach a point where the level in th bleed tubes is at the height of the coolant in the reservoir (stand back and look) and the massaging sounds "solid". Should be all good at that point.
Well I went out and had another go before I saw this reply. Level in header tank seems stable and I now get hot air out of the heater. And after a 5 mile drive to the shop and back again the temp gauge never went above half way.
I'll have to look at massaging the pipes again and see what's what - just don't want to think that it is ok and find out it's not.
I've assumed so far that the temp gauge measures the engine temp - so as long as that doesn't go too high everything should be okay. I think. Anyway, too dark to do any more just now.
Oh and thanks,
And also, I think, but it's late and I'm tired, but when I now open either of the two bleed valves (top of radiator and the one on heater pipe) that coolant comes out. Think I'm just concerned about errant pockets of air in the system
Sounds like it's all good. Try undoing the coolant reservoir cap when it's cooled down a bit. It might pop and hiss a bit with air that has made its way up.
But if the temperature is stable and hot air is coming out, I dare say you're in the clear
Well done
Ok cheers, I'll have a look in daylight and generally keep an eye on it.
Quote from: "shnazzle"You've actually done things a lot better than you think.
The butterfly screw does indeed need to be swapped over. It does fit. But only with a new (slightly thicker) rubber o-ring.
I'm assuming you bled the system correctly via the two tubes; one at the bulkhead and one attached to the top left bleed valve of the radiator. Then both taped/tied to the bonnet.
Massaging the big pipes has been the best way for me to make sure the air is pushed out. Keep massaging until you hear sloshing but no air. It's a clear change in the noise.
Top up reservoir as required. Run the car with heat on full and massage pipes. Check reservoir and level in the bleed tubes. Eventually you reach a point where the level in th bleed tubes is at the height of the coolant in the reservoir (stand back and look) and the massaging sounds "solid". Should be all good at that point.
Don't suppose there's a link to that larger washer anywhere?
(Bookmarking thread for when I eventually get around to this)
Do you do that thing of putting the motor end up on ramps to bleed the rad system? (Back higher than front)
Quote from: "Bossworld"Quote from: "shnazzle"You've actually done things a lot better than you think.
The butterfly screw does indeed need to be swapped over. It does fit. But only with a new (slightly thicker) rubber o-ring.
I'm assuming you bled the system correctly via the two tubes; one at the bulkhead and one attached to the top left bleed valve of the radiator. Then both taped/tied to the bonnet.
Massaging the big pipes has been the best way for me to make sure the air is pushed out. Keep massaging until you hear sloshing but no air. It's a clear change in the noise.
Top up reservoir as required. Run the car with heat on full and massage pipes. Check reservoir and level in the bleed tubes. Eventually you reach a point where the level in th bleed tubes is at the height of the coolant in the reservoir (stand back and look) and the massaging sounds "solid". Should be all good at that point.
Don't suppose there's a link to that larger washer anywhere?
(Bookmarking thread for when I eventually get around to this)
I do not. I just got a box of o-rings from Halfords and picked the right size + thicker