Hello guys,
I have a problem with my roadster(at least i think so). When i come to a stop the revs are usually around 800-900 and then after a few seconds say 5-6 they drop a bit to around 700-750 and the car starts shaking. Anybody had such problem?
Also accelerating is sometimes jerky, the throttle cable was adjusted last time when she was in for service. I think it drinks a bit more fuel than intended so it points to a dirty MAF?
I had a read on google and some ppl are suggesting some fixes but my problems seems to not be totally the same.
Can i clean the throttle body w/o taking the engine off the car?
The idle dropping a bit after you stop is normal.
Shouldn't be all shakey though. I'd have a look at o2 sensor responses and fuel trims when that's happening. I'd guess maybe a small air leak, dodgy o2 sensor or maybe tired spark plugs.
Start with the simplest possible culprit... Get a new air filter, clean your maf with electric contact cleaner or carburettor cleaner, change spark plugs.
I've got a filter I can send for postage if you want.
Failing the above, your idle air control valve is probably sticking. If the above doesn't work, report back and we'll get the you through idle air control valve cleaning
Quote from: "shnazzle"Start with the simplest possible culprit... Get a new air filter, clean your maf with electric contact cleaner or carburettor cleaner, change spark plugs.
I've got a filter I can send for postage if you want.
Failing the above, your idle air control valve is probably sticking. If the above doesn't work, report back and we'll get the you through idle air control valve cleaning
Air filter was just replaced and it was like this before too. I will clean the maf next weekend it happened that i got half can left from my other maf cleaning. Spark plugs id need some special tools, can u suggest some spark plugs? Im stock 1zz, no turbo or anything s:) :) s:)
No special tools needed to get at the spark plugs - std 21mm Socket with a short extension. And you need a 10mm socket to remove the coils first.
Quote from: "jonbill"No special tools needed to get at the spark plugs - std 21mm Socket with a short extension. And you need a 10mm socket to remove the coils first.
Never done anything mechanical just saw lots of clips. Im sure i can do it but i will go to some shop to do it there with supervision of a friend of mine s:) :) s:)
If that would help, i think ive heard some pops from the exhaust when letting the throttle pedal go. I guess its coz the car is running rich correct me if im wrong. Still learning newbie here.
Sounds a good plan.
Pops on closed throttle tend to be because you're a little lean. Another poss indicator of an air leak.
If you have a wifi/bluetooth obd dongle you can follow the air mixture in real time on your mobile.
Might be 1 of the O2 sensors that are starting to fail - the fuel trims might be off meaning the idle is affected - might be worth pulling the ECU fuse and leave it for half an hour to reset the fuel trims first - try that and report back.
Quote from: "m1tch"Might be 1 of the O2 sensors that are starting to fail - the fuel trims might be off meaning the idle is affected - might be worth pulling the ECU fuse and leave it for half an hour to reset the fuel trims first - try that and report back.
Can i just disconnect the battery over night?
Yup. 20 mins will do. Make sure you lock the car before you disconnect the battery though. Don't want to get it stolen s:) :) s:)
You can open the doors using the key manually
Quote from: "shnazzle"Yup. 20 mins will do. Make sure you lock the car before you disconnect the battery though. Don't want to get it stolen s:) :) s:)
You can open the doors using the key manually
I gots a garage and im anyways using the keys to unlock the car coz i didnt have the time to find batteries for the 2 keys that ive got. I will try it this week and will report back. s:) :) s:)
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "shnazzle"Yup. 20 mins will do. Make sure you lock the car before you disconnect the battery though. Don't want to get it stolen s:) :) s:)
You can open the doors using the key manually
I gots a garage and I'm anyways using the keys to unlock the car coz i didnt have the time to find batteries for the 2 keys that ive got. I will try it this week and will report back. s:) :) s:)
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
Worth getting yourself a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader - only a couple of £s off Ebay and then pair it with your phone (using the Torque app) - easy to check codes that might pop up as well as monitoring the fuel trims and other useful stats.
Quote from: "m1tch"Quote from: "Nvy"Quote from: "shnazzle"Yup. 20 mins will do. Make sure you lock the car before you disconnect the battery though. Don't want to get it stolen s:) :) s:)
You can open the doors using the key manually
I gots a garage and I'm anyways using the keys to unlock the car coz i didnt have the time to find batteries for the 2 keys that ive got. I will try it this week and will report back. s:) :) s:)
Thanks for the suggestions guys!
Worth getting yourself a cheap Bluetooth OBD2 reader - only a couple of £s off Ebay and then pair it with your phone (using the Torque app) - easy to check codes that might pop up as well as monitoring the fuel trims and other useful stats.
I have a generic one, is that a problem? I read somewhere that there is a problem with the ABS module.
If you download the torque app you should be able to see the fuel trims and voltages from each of the O2 sensors - I would reset the ECU initially and see if that cures it, if not it might just mean part of the throttlebody needs cleaning.
Quote from: "m1tch"If you download the torque app you should be able to see the fuel trims and voltages from each of the O2 sensors - I would reset the ECU initially and see if that cures it, if not it might just mean part of the throttlebody needs cleaning.
I have asked in one of the previous posts but can i clean the throttle body w/o dropping the engine?
Yes.
Air filter assembly out, battery out (for ease and space), 2 plugs, 2 nuts, 2 bolts and two coolant pipes (which you need to clamp off) to remove.
Easy
So the things i have tried:
1. Disconnected the battery for 1.5 hours.
2. Cleaned MAF.
3. Italian tune(went through the gears 1-4 shifting at 5.5k).
Its 7-8 degrees today and when i started the car the rpms went to 2-2.2k and after that slowly came to 1.5 but didnt want to go any lower. Anyways i decided to drive around a bit but the idle was not consistent, moving up and down till finally it stays in the middle between 500 and 1000 rpms or even a bit lower than mid. When i stopped at the 1st traffic light i felt something like missfire but still didnt connect my reader coz i dont have android phone at the moment, ill borrow some tablet from a friend and will check for any errors or something. Some pics below of the rpms and the maf.
(http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj520/Neverivo/Mobile%20Uploads/85E38247-C0F7-4D06-873D-CECAA448328C_zps9dtansvl.jpg)
And this is how the MAF looks like:
(http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj520/Neverivo/Mobile%20Uploads/42E09A98-0131-4576-9975-4656B66B4AD7_zpshenjbepk.jpg)
1500 rpm while warming up is normal. Gradually dropping to around 750 rpm when fully warm. Even if it is a bit 'lumpy' at low idle, the rpm's seem fine.
Quote from: "Carolyn"1500 rpm while warming up is normal. Gradually dropping to around 750 rpm when fully warm. Even if it is a bit 'lumpy' at low idle, the rpm's seem fine.
When i came to a stop rpms got to 1k then went up and down 2 times and then went to 900, stayed for a second or two and then went to 750. I dont see this normal coz my other car is not doing and never done it.
Maybe throttle body clean?
Do you have air conditioning?
Also when you call it rough idle, do you mean variable revs (rather than a rock steady idle) as opposed to a misfiring engine.
Obviously when the revs drop to 700ish you can sometimes get a few vibrations in the car but that still isn't a misfire.
Quote from: "lamcote"Do you have air conditioning?
Yes, i do.
Well I reckon you have got two things that will affect idle speed;
1. AC pump
2. Power steering electric pump.
The car has to balance idle speed against the power demands of these two pumps, so the idle is never going to be rock steady. Mine certainly isn't. The ECU will constantly be monitoring whether these pumps are cutting in and out and will vary idle speed significantly to stop the engine stalling.
I suspect that is the issue?
I'm still sticking to idle air control valve. Only because I recognise the symptoms
Fair point, when my idle speed varies I can sometimes hear the pumps kicking in at the same time. If there's no such noise it may be the IAC as you say. Difficult to tell without being there.
Okay, so after new year i will take it to a repair shop to do these for me. I find working on this car to be a PITA. I will also try to read error codes if any.
Things to do:
1. Idle air control valve.
2. Throttle body clean.
Feel free to add something to the list s:) :) s:)
I'm really not sure there's anything wrong with the idle control - 1500 during warm up. [emoji736]
900 as you stop when warm. [emoji736]
Drop to 750 after a few seconds stationary. [emoji736]
By all means clean the iac valve and throttle body, but I'm not sure how much will change.
It'll be a duff o2 sensor in the end haha. As usual
I'm with Carolyn, JB and Lamcote.
Mine behaves in exactly the same way.
NVY
In answer to one of your other questions. The Spark plugs you are looking for are
NGK BKR5EYA-11 (NGK2526) Should be correctly gapped straight out of the box.
But good practice to check.
Worth doing anyway as only about £11 delivered for a set of 4. Bargin
I change mine every year.
Check these babies out
m https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BKR5EYA-11-F ... 2292277042 (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BKR5EYA-11-FOUR-x4-GENUINE-NGK-SPARK-PLUGS-NGK-2526-Toyota-Corolla-etc-/292292277042) m