Those of you that have met myself and my son Matt as southern events will know that he started a career as an apprentice motor mechanic .
One thing that modern apprenticeships don't seem to cover is engine rebuilding so I've taken on the roll of teacher (this may not end well) and thought i might as well get him to build me a spare engine and save me the trouble .
The donor engine has been sourced (Thanks Ulphie) and the modified pistons have been donated /swopped (Thanks Carolyn) and are now in my special sauce cleaning fluid .
The engine is now in bits in my garage As my MR2 as gone to the paintshop for a respray and we have the room to carry out the work.
Thats the back ground, now the questions.
1- Do the people that have rebuilt engines previously have a supplier that is recommended for items such as bearings, rings,head bolts, oil pump and gaskets etc. i have a local supplier I've used previously but never for Japanese parts .
2- is there a preferred jointing compound for the block to sump joint and joint between the two halves of the block.
3- Please can i borrow from the club the cup s to adjust the tappets and how do i go about getting them.
4-i have a way of warming the pistons up to remove the gudgeon pins but I'm keen to here the way that other people have done it that may be better.
Any advice gratefully received
Thanks
Dave and Matt
Send me an PM with your email address, and I'll send a parts list with links.
Dirko Elhring sealant(on the list)
Have you measured the gaps with the cams in? Make a note of each measurement and work out the gap you want to make up. Say you've measured .30 mm and you want .25, Then you will want a bucket thats' .05 thicker than the bucket you take out. Then remove cams and buckets and mike the buckets. Now you know how thick the new ones should be. You'll find you can move a few around. Then contact Spit (one of our members) and tell him what buckets you need (He has loads already measured). If you ask nicely he'll send you the buckets you need. Please send any left-overs back to Spit ('cos that's how the bucket-bank works).
Hair dryer and cardboard box is good.
Don't forget you will need a micrometer that reads down to 0.001mm to check the crank bearings etc
Quote from: "m1tch"Don't forget you will need a micrometer that reads down to 0.001mm to check the crank bearings etc
Unless there's obvious damage to the crank, all you need is plasti-gauge.
Quote from: "Carolyn"Quote from: "m1tch"Don't forget you will need a micrometer that reads down to 0.001mm to check the crank bearings etc
Unless there's obvious damage to the crank, all you need is plasti-gauge.
Mine seems to be out of spec and it still looks in good condition - perhaps I should recheck the measurements but it states that:
Main journal - 47.988mm to 48.000mm
Crank pin - 44.992 - 45.000mm
I think my main journal is at 47.68mm (still need a more accurate micrometer to check exactly) but it means its worn 0.32mm - they have all worn evenly though. Also means that I can't run standard bearings as the oil clearance would be wrong. I am now on the hunt for a new crankshaft for my build so I can run standard bearings.
.3 mm wear? I don't believe it. The give-away is no scoring and all the same.
However, this is someone else's thread so, lets end the discussion of your crank here?
Thanks for the replies
A heater and a metal box was my method of removing gudgeon pins so thats good.
Matt got a bit excited when he was taking the engine apart and before i could stop him the camshafts were out. so he's got a bit off doubling up work to do when he rebuilds the head but he's learnt a valuable lesson so won't make that error again hopefully (thats what its all about).
we've got a micrometer and palsti gauge and the crank wear is within limits so thats good.
Thanks Dave
Quote from: "dave2002"Thanks for the replies
A heater and a metal box was my method of removing gudgeon pins so thats good.
Matt got a bit excited when he was taking the engine apart and before i could stop him the camshafts were out. so he's got a bit off doubling up work to do when he rebuilds the head but he's learnt a valuable lesson so won't make that error again hopefully (thats what its all about).
we've got a micrometer and palsti gauge and the crank wear is within limits so thats good.
Thanks Dave
You can do all the measuring with the head on the bench. It will be most accurate after the valves have been lapped. So no probs there then!!
My recollection is that the pins are floating. Brass bushes in the rods and retained by circlips in the piston.
The circlips shouldn't be re-used. I bought replacements from local Toyota dealer.
Quote from: "Carolyn"Quote from: "dave2002"Thanks for the replies
A heater and a metal box was my method of removing gudgeon pins so thats good.
Matt got a bit excited when he was taking the engine apart and before i could stop him the camshafts were out. so he's got a bit off doubling up work to do when he rebuilds the head but he's learnt a valuable lesson so won't make that error again hopefully (thats what its all about).
we've got a micrometer and palsti gauge and the crank wear is within limits so thats good.
Thanks Dave
You can do all the measuring with the head on the bench. It will be most accurate after the valves have been lapped. So no probs there then!!
Are you ok to lap the valves on the 1zz head due to the fact they are laser clad?
Lapping is OK. Grinding not so much.
Well it's taken a while to collect the parts together but the bottom has been rebuilt and Matt has started on the head.
Good work. I see a specialist in the making to look after my car!
Make sure Matt gets the valve seals on the right valves. The shinier ones go on the exhaust. You might have to look at them quite carefully to see the difference.
Great work. And absolutely the best way to learn.
He definitely learning it's nice to see an interest in rebuilding rather than just replacing with new .
It's just a shame that modern apprenticeship and garages don't really teach this sort of job as it's not cost effective so the skills are lost