2004 Uk spec car.
Have just moved the alarm to flip the spare. Thought I should probably test how loud the alarm is now, so armed with ear defenders, I locked the car with the windows down and started waving my arms around.
Except nothing happened.
I've tried various combinations of pressing the lock button multiple times, sitting inside the car and locking it, and locking with the remote and opening with the key.
Only thing I can say is that if I either disconnect the siren, or disconnect the car battery, something beeps for a short time from what sounds like the front of the car.
Spotted an old thread where someone suggested their alarm ecu was goosed
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=52309.msg601329#msg601329
Any pointers?
Thanks
Open the the doors or the frunk with the alarm armed it should go off.
We have them go off at ding day on us when we do the flip.
Lock it with the remote fob, then open it just using the key in the door. The alarm should go off. You might be unsure it's yours until you see the indicators flashing: It's very quiet and nondescript! Press the key fob unlock to disarm it again.
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 25, 2018, 19:51
Open the the doors or the frunk with the alarm armed it should go off.
We have them go off at ding day on us when we do the flip.
Only need to press the lock button on the remote once, right?
No sign of alarm either way.
Have got a blinking red LED near the heating controls, and another solid red one near the coin holder by the steering wheel.
Tried lifting the frunk and unlocking a door via the key
Edit: In reply to the above, no indicators coming on either
You can also alter the sensitivity of the cabin sensors. iirc the control box is behind the driver's seat, under the carpet below the storage door.
Mine was useless until I turned it up, I could literally lean over the door (roof down) into the cabin and not set it off.
Quote from: wotugonado on February 25, 2018, 20:17
You can also alter the sensitivity of the cabin sensors. iirc the control box is behind the driver's seat, under the carpet below the storage door.
Mine was useless until I turned it up, I could literally lean over the door (roof down) into the cabin and not set it off.
If it's not activating the alarm when the door or frunk is opened, would that still be a sensitivity issue? (Are they on a pressure switch).
If it's not a separate switch then presumably the sensitivity has been dialled right back by a previous owner. If it is then I guess it's safe to assume the alarm ecu is knackered?
Either way I guess that's the next step so I'll take a look.
It's been an age since I did mine tbh. I think you should still get an activation by doing what you've been doing. Do your indicator lights flash on pressing the fob to lock the doors ?
Drink and engine lid are on a switch.
Sensitivity shouldn't change that.
If you press the fob a few times doesn't it turn the alarm off with the doors locked?
Quote from: 1979scotte on February 25, 2018, 22:04
Drink and engine lid are on a switch.
Sensitivity shouldn't change that.
If you press the fob a few times doesn't it turn the alarm off with the doors locked?
Drink?? Freudian slip?
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Yes they're on a switch, which reminds me that sometimes the metal tabs the switch sits on bends downwards, I have had to bend mine back up to get the alarm to work a few times.
Indicators flash when locking car.
I think one press is alarm active, two presses deadlocks, and three disables some kind of sensor (possibly motion?)
I've been trying everyone's suggestions on the basis of one press.
Weird, so it arms but doesn't trip.
The only thing I can suggest is find the control box, check nothing has been unplugged and dial it up a bit. If that doesn't work perhaps trace the wire for a breakage or disconnection some where down the line.
Someone on here may be able to get you a wiring diagram, so you can see where connections are made.
Couple of possibles.
Did you disconnect the battery before moving the sounder? Could be you've blown the big fuse?
The sounder goes off faintly even when disconnected because there's a capacitor in there somewhere holding a residual charge.
If it was all working prior to the move but nothing now, including the indicators my guess would be a fuse/relay that's goosed.
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Quote from: Bossworld on February 25, 2018, 22:27
Indicators flash when locking car.
I think one press is alarm active, two presses deadlocks, and three disables some kind of sensor (possibly motion?)
I've been trying everyone's suggestions on the basis of one press.
Indicators flash regardless of alarm condition if I remember rightly they're just a visual signal that you've successfully locked the doors with the remote not that the alarm is set and functioning.
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Below is a link to another thread. There's a link for the alarm instructions in there, maybe of some use.
_________________________________________________
https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=64345.0
In addition to the advice you have had, which I agree with, can you remember what it was like before you moved the sounder? Did everything work - which would lead to it perhaps being something you have done... or might this be an underlying problem.
One push should get you set, as others say two deadlocks and three disabled the motion sensor. Door and boot switches are armed in all cases
Thanks for all replies, will try and work through:
Doors/lids on a switch - seems unlikely all switches would be bent out of position I guess.
Box / ECU - next to look at I think. Apparently the LED nearest the steering wheel is alarm related but I guess there's no means of knowing if it means the rest of the system is plugged in.
Fuse/battery - disconnected the alarm before doing any work - the siren makes four? chirps when either disconnected or the power is pulled, so I think the battery/capacitor within the siren is OK and it must be getting power.
Instructions - thanks, taken a look through. I guess that separate manual explains the lack of alarm mentions in the workshop PDFs. The PDF makes mention of a 'setting guide' in relation to the radar sensor, I don't suppose that's available anywhere?
EDIT: Think I've found it - https://www.toyota-tech.eu/aimuploads/%7B1B61A262-6063-4E19-80F5-01ABC951B6F6%7D/TVSS%20setting%20guide%20for%20TVSS%20IV-S%20%20LHD%20T4SLSET-2-0-F.pdf
The $64,000 question - no, I can't remember if it worked before or not. I seem to think I'd set it off previously by sticking a hand in an open window, but I could be getting mixed up with the Mini. :-[
The only changes I've made that I could think might make any difference:
- I've enabled auto locking when the ignition is switched on.
- I'm using a third-party key rehoused in a flip housing (but I've done the programming dances).
- The car has been on a trickle charger for most of the last 2 1/2 months, but started occasionally.
I'm not massively bothered if it doesn't work, just annoyed I went to the effort of drilling out the U bracket, and mounting it back on the frunk! :)
The radar sensor setting is basically a screw on the bottom right, front corner of the unit itself which is behind the carpet below the driver's side storage bin.
To be honest I'd get the alarm/siren working first before you start stripping bins and carpet out. Chances are if you get the system working then the radar unit will be fine anyway.
It's basically a protective "bubble" inside the confines of the cabin, you can adjust the sensitivity of the "bubble" but need the alarm working anyway.
I'd still check the fuses etc first, could be you've got some wires crossed when moving the components and blown something when you've connected the battery again.
I'm ready to be corrected but I think there's a 100 amp(?) fuse that protects the ECUs.
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Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 26, 2018, 10:20
The radar sensor setting is basically a screw on the bottom right, front corner of the unit itself which is behind the carpet below the driver's side storage bin.
To be honest I'd get the alarm/siren working first before you start stripping bins and carpet out. Chances are if you get the system working then the radar unit will be fine anyway.
It's basically a protective "bubble" inside the confines of the cabin, you can adjust the sensitivity of the "bubble" but need the alarm working anyway.
I'd still check the fuses etc first, could be you've got some wires crossed when moving the components and blown something when you've connected the battery again.
I'm ready to be corrected but I think there's a 100 amp(?) fuse that protects the ECUs.
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Thanks. I'll check all fuses (and see if there's an alarm specific one) , the second PDF contains instructions for testing alarm functionality so on the off chance the auto lock has knackered something else, I'll try those.
Presumably as the car starts, the ECU fuse must be ok?
Quote from: Bossworld on February 26, 2018, 10:26
Quote from: Call the midlife! on February 26, 2018, 10:20
The radar sensor setting is basically a screw on the bottom right, front corner of the unit itself which is behind the carpet below the driver's side storage bin.
To be honest I'd get the alarm/siren working first before you start stripping bins and carpet out. Chances are if you get the system working then the radar unit will be fine anyway.
It's basically a protective "bubble" inside the confines of the cabin, you can adjust the sensitivity of the "bubble" but need the alarm working anyway.
I'd still check the fuses etc first, could be you've got some wires crossed when moving the components and blown something when you've connected the battery again.
I'm ready to be corrected but I think there's a 100 amp(?) fuse that protects the ECUs.
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Thanks. I'll check all fuses (and see if there's an alarm specific one) , the second PDF contains instructions for testing alarm functionality so on the off chance the auto lock has knackered something else, I'll try those.
Presumably as the car starts, the ECU fuse must be ok?
Alarm and immobiliser are separate items so yeah, if it starts then you're good there.
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Quote from: wotugonado on February 25, 2018, 22:27
Yes they're on a switch, which reminds me that sometimes the metal tabs the switch sits on bends downwards, I have had to bend mine back up to get the alarm to work a few times.
Nailed it. Did another search earlier while looking through the setting guide, and NathanMr2 mentioned he had a solid red light.
http://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?topic=33371
I plunged the engine bay switch up and down a few times (bearing in mind the lid had been propped upright for two months) and the led started blinking on locking.
Opened the door with the key and the alarm went off. Couldn't get it to trigger by sticking an arm in but frankly I'm not sure I can be arsed getting the carpet up if I don't really need to.
Thanks again all
;D :withstupid:
I was just about to reply to your "unlikely that all the tabs would be bent" comment, as it only needs one for the alarm to not set, when I saw you've sorted it :-)
Time consuming to pinpoint problem, but cheap as hell to fix. Winner.
Told you it would be a fuse! [emoji23]
Credit to your perseverance!
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