OK, so failed it's MOT on handbrake only , so I thought I'd change all discs, pads and new cables.. which I've done before on my previous '2. Also refurbished the rear calipers. So on the bench the calipers worked. Everything put together as correctly, as I believe possible for me. Brakes good ..maybe slight travel.. but the handbrake which was locking fine on the stands, works well when the brake is pumped but not when you just hit on it's own.. (:< >:)
So here's my question. Is this all in the adjustment or settling in!! Or I have I just not got it..???? :( :( :(
I've got an MOT retest booked for Monday so quick help would be great!! ;)
Thanks Lance.
The 'slight travel' is the give away. The pistons haven't fully adjusted up.
Did you wind the pistons out 1/2 turn after winding in? This engages the wind-out screw.
I'm sure you've got the nipples on the back of the pads located in the slots on the pistons, but do check. Won't self adjust if this isn't right.
Slacken handbrake right off until it's doing nothing. (even disconnect at caliper end).
Start engine. Pump brake pedal hard many times.
Re-attach cables and adjust up.
you should be good to go!
The Toyota handbook advises to step on the brakes before applying the handbrake. Once you've fixed it (following the advice above), would the MOT centre not do that as well?
(Mine's probably going to fail this afternoon - has had new cables, pads, calipers, still crap).
I should have included how to test it before you take it back for inspection:
While the car is still up on jack-stands, put wheel on. Tighten wheel nut , does handbrake hold? It should.
Yes, to wind back and nipple placement!
Thanks Carolyn, I'll do that this afternoon and report back.
So that I better understand the mechanics of the car, why does the engine need to be running?
Thanks again
Lance
Quote from: tommytoneism on April 13, 2018, 10:57
Yes, to wind back and nipple placement!
Thanks Carolyn, I'll do that this afternoon and report back.
So that I better understand the mechanics of the car, why does the engine need to be running?
Thanks again
Lance
Helps with the pressure you can apply to the foot-brake.
EDIT: Turns out my driver's side cable (replaced Jan 2017) has a split in it, which is preventing free movement. Guess that'll need replacing again.
This is the right way to adjust it. If everything is new and it doesnt hold then this is what you need to do
https://youtu.be/dw8BbpRsSbo
Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
Thanks Carolyn and all,
Boom!, passed :D See you at ding day!
Thanks Lance
So here's a question. The handbrake mechanism is purely mechanical right, no hydraulics involved?
Reason I ask is that I changed the front brake pipes so I've had to bleed the entire system. Before that, I'd set the rears up to be an interference fit on the disc.
So as the system is now full of fluid again, as far as I can work out I shouldn't need to readjust the caliper pistons?
You are so correct it's frightening!
Quote from: Carolyn on May 7, 2018, 10:29
You are so correct it's frightening!
Thanking you, off to Carlisle next sat for new cables mk2, so hopefully that's the end of my posting on this issue :D
Thanks for the video, first time I have had to adjust mine in 16 years of family ownership. Summer has arrived it so taxed it on Friday for 6 months, MoT due in June and had an advisory last year about the handbrake, followed the video (but took the seats out ) and all went smoothly about an hours work and now on 3 notches. Thanks again for the video.