Feeling a bit down about the car but I'm trying to be objective.
+ves:
* 04
* new Toyota subframe
* Sable
* Countless other maintenance things already done (callipers, radiator, fluids, standard servicing)
* new A/C condenser
* TTE exhaust
* roof is in good condition
-ves:
* 130k on the clock
* Going to need another new pair of handbrake cables I reckon, just to get through MOT. Only replaced last Jan.
* Going to need a clutch, which will probably mean new gear cables as I can't see how the bushings will come out/off
* Possibly needs brake lines renewing. I've cleaned up the surface rust and put Hammerite on, but now fully expecting to get a failure for that and all.
* Coil spring corrosion noted as advisory this time out
I feel relatively confident doing day to day stuff on the car but I can't do anything in the -ves list. It stands me about £3k already. I guess I'd get about £1k back selling, or probably the same breaking it. That to do list is going to cost about £800 at least (ignoring the springs).
Is it time to give up on it?
No keep going. Where are you going to get as nice a car for £800?
Quote from: jonbill on April 14, 2018, 09:24
No keep going. Where are you going to get as nice a car for £800?
I think the current question is where am I going to get £800 ;)
Given the current low prices I just wasn't sure if I'd be better off starting again with another MR2
Straight answer "don't be daft"
If your cables are new I can't see it being those again, I have to take my calipers apart every MOT time to reset them this is a known on going problem for everyone, never had to change the cables.
Clutch it will need doing on any car you own if you keep it long enough it's a consumable.
Corrosion is more difficult to answer. If you've cleaned it off and the pipe is sound and corrosion is no longer obvious how can they fail it?
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 09:38
Straight answer "don't be daft"
If your cables are new I can't see it being those again, I have to take my calipers apart every MOT time to reset them this is a known on going problem for everyone, never had to change the cables.
Clutch it will need doing on any car you own if you keep it long enough it's a consumable.
Corrosion is more difficult to answer. If you've cleaned it off and the pipe is sound and corrosion is no longer obvious how can they fail it?
The cables have me baffled to be honest. At the point the cables were replaced, the driver's side caliper turned out to be duff. I changed both calipers late last year but that was after the MOT.
With these cables there's always been a heavy slant on the equaliser plate, and it's really hard to pull the handbrake up. While it was all in pieces yesterday, I checked the cables moved freely (which they do) and the cables were level within the cabin.
But once I reattached it in the driver's side, the slant comes back again and it's left me wondering if the driver's inner cable is somehow too short, or sat too far back in the bracket. I can't find a conclusive answer as to whether PFL and facelift cables are different - some brands sell two types.
Sorry I know that sounds mad but I'm stuck for other ideas now.
Pipes-wise it always seems a tester's discretion as to what they feel is excessive corrosion. The application of Hammerite is hardy subtle. I'm a bit stressed with it all so it's playing on my mind but I appreciate the straight answer :)
Where are you mate ?
I'd take a look if your close enough, if not I'm sure another member would do the same.
There's a bit of a knack to setting them up, this is probably all the problem is.
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 09:59
Where are you mate ?
I'd take a look if your close enough, if not I'm sure another member would do the same.
There's a bit of a knack to setting them up, this is probably all the problem is.
Thanks for the offer but I'm up in Newcastle. I'm fairly confident I've done the setup right, done all the backing out 180 degrees stuff, stuck new pads in last night just in case that was an issue. Everything is greased/lubricated. Stamped on the brakes several times before reattaching the cables and then adjusted at the console accordingly.
Ok no worries.
Won't hurt for a 2nd pair of eyes if any members are close to you.
The one thing I do extra while the the cables are off is put a screwdriver in the lever on the caliper and work it fully open, you might find a bit of resistance as it's set in the same position permanently while cables are attached so make sure it goes all the way back. Do this until it moves freely. This should give you full range of movement on the caliper.
Someone help him please - please don't give up, with help from people on here, you're be ok 👍
Quote from: wotugonado on April 14, 2018, 10:21
Ok no worries.
Won't hurt for a 2nd pair of eyes if any members are close to you.
The one thing I do extra while the the cables are off is put a screwdriver in the lever on the caliper and work it fully open, you might find a bit of resistance as it's set in the same position permanently while cables are attached so make sure it goes all the way back. Do this until it moves freely. This should give you full range of movement on the caliper.
Silly question, do you mean work the lever to it's full travel/ extension? It returns to the stops happily but haven't tried much movement the other way (other than using palm of a hand on the lever). Thanks
@Bossworld (https://www.mr2roc.org/forum/index.php?action=profile;u=23743)
Yeah my thinking is that overtime it seizes at the point it's set to, so by pushing it back past this point frees up the full movement. Mine goes to the point it's been set and you think it reached its full travel but as you work it it goes back further. I could be wrong but if your setting it up from the point it's seized then your never gonna set it correctly. The only thing I'll add is mine is a weekend warrior so doesn't get used as much as it should so I may be more prone to this than you.
Which brake pipes are corroded?
Quote from: J03 on April 14, 2018, 11:57
Which brake pipes are corroded?
It's at the point where they meet the flexis. Was mentioned on an mot in 2015 as an advisory. The mechanic my mum always uses had the car in early 2017 to change them (at the same time as doing the subframe) and didn't as he said it was just surface corrosion.
Passed MOT in 2017 without them being mentioned.
Was one of the MOT failure items yesterday - I cleaned them up with emery tape and a wire brush then put hammerite on last night.
No fluid leaks or anything.
I think you are supposed to grease brakelines rather than paint?
If you painted them silver and greased them then maybe that might be ok?
https://youtu.be/_BN7xehlVZw
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out of interest, where did you get the ac condenser from
Quote from: Bossworld on April 14, 2018, 09:35
I think the current question is where am I going to get £800 ;)
Sympathise. If mine had failed its MOT i would have had to SORN it, as i'd spent all i had on subframe, suspension and underseal. No money left for other stuff. But wouldn't have sold it, invested too much... Would've just saved up again
Quote from: Topdownman on April 14, 2018, 13:49
I think you are supposed to grease brakelines rather than paint?
If you painted them silver and greased them then maybe that might be ok?
Indeed. I had second thoughts and I've wore brushed the hammerite back off and put copper grease on. If it fails at a second place then fair enough I'll have to get the lines changed.
Quote from: pauls0212 on April 14, 2018, 16:58
out of interest, where did you get the ac condenser from
Bryan on the Facebook group found a website that was selling old stock. Still set me back £177 though. Haven't seen them back on there since.
Quote from: delhusband on April 14, 2018, 19:50
Quote from: Bossworld on April 14, 2018, 09:35
I think the current question is where am I going to get £800 ;)
Sympathise. If mine had failed its MOT i would have had to SORN it, as i'd spent all i had on subframe, suspension and underseal. No money left for other stuff. But wouldn't have sold it, invested too much... Would've just saved up again
I bought the car at a stupid point in my life (financially) and my partner is currently on Mat leave with our second. I've got a little bit saved aside for a rainy day and luckily about 2 months before the MOT officially expires so hopefully will get it sorted.
Thanks all. Seen Patrick's thread ( :o ) and that kind of put things into perspective too. I've reset the calipers again and it looks like the driver's side cable has a crack in it that's restricting movement, so once that's changed the handbrake should be fine.